Plenty of waves with windows of decent winds

James KC

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by James Casey (issued Wednesday 17th March)

Best Days: Friday early for everywhere but Port Macquarie, Saturday early for everywhere but the Sunshine Coast

Outlook

  • Thursday will see a fading long period S swell from polar low for Mid N Coast and N NSW
  • New mid period ESE swell to build from Thursday and then ebb and pulse into the weekend. Peaking Friday and then Sunday
  • Gradual downward trend from Monday onwards
  • Winds generally onshore with a few windows of offshores but you’ll need to look below for more detail

Recap

Yesterday SE QLD had SW to SE winds meaning decent waves for the points. The swell was about 3ft out of the ESE and with SW winds early it was clean. Winds tended more S to SE later in the day causing conditions to deteriorate a bit in the afternoon. Today winds were more onshore with an E/NE component and the swell started to ease. 

For N NSW and the MNC yesterday winds were out of the S too SE. Generally conditions were good early with SW winds but deteriorated as the day went on. Waves were around the 3-4ft mark earlier but easing throughout the day. This morning waves were around the 3ft mark a bit smaller for Coffs early but larger for Port as a long period S swell filled in. Winds were onshore for Port Macquarie, Yamba and  Ballina but workable for Coffs.

Into the Weekend

We have a dynamic end to the week with a S swell from a polar low filling in today and then fading tomorrow. Meanwhile, a mid period E/SE swell fills in on Friday before a stronger E trade swell builds into Sunday. 

The long period S swell from the polar low began filling in today reaching Port Macquarie early but taking a while to fill in for Coffs Harbour and N NSW. I’d expect it to fill in throughout today and into tomorrow with the peak of 3-5ft waves for the Mid N Coast and 3-4ft for N NSW. It’ll be mixed in with a building mid period E/SE swell that’ll pulse and build into the weekend.

This new ESE swell has been generated by winds propelled by a trough interacting with a ridge of high pressure out in the Tasman. It looks set in too, as this high remains fairly stationary sitting over the nations SE.

The first pulse of E/SE swell is being generated by strong winds west of NZ’s North Island. The second E pulse has a bit more promise due to it’s longer fetch. It is whipping around NZ’s North Island with stronger, more persistent and more widespread winds generated to the NE of the North Island. 

This E/SE swell will really build on Thursday into Friday peaking at 4-6ft for both the Mid N Coast and N NSW Friday morning, a larger stormier 6ft+ for the lower Mid N Coast. SE QLD will see less of this swell as it wasn’t quite as well aimed so it’ll be more like 3-5ft and the odd larger one for spots more exposed to SE swells. 

The next pulse will fare better for SE QLD. A more traditional E trade swell will begin filling in late on Saturday peaking on Sunday. I’d expect waves up around the 5-6ft mark, potentially a little bigger around the Mid N Coast but it’ll be a more even spread than the previous E/SE pulse. 

Now that all sounds fairly promising but I haven’t mentioned the winds. 

Generally speaking for the first pulse winds will be onshore and stronger south of the trough and lighter and with windows of offshore winds north of the trough. 

On Thursday the divide will be around Ballina with more onshore (SE) winds further south and more S/SE winds further north. 

Friday will see the trough shift further S, with strong onshore winds for Port Macquarie but lighter offshores early for everywhere N. Winds will swing onshore later in the day but for the most part they won’t be too strong. 

Saturday will see lighter offshore winds for just about everywhere except the Sunshine Coast before fresh to strong E/NE winds build into the afternoon. 

Sunday is looking the windiest with widespread E winds, a bit more NE further south and bit more SE further north.  

Generally speaking mornings will be better, nothing out of the usual. For afternoon surfs it's best if you go into it expecting choppy to bumpy onshore conditions. You might luck into a few lumpy sessions either side of a squall but generally speaking afternoons are not going to be as nice. 

Next Week

Next week the swell will begin to ease but winds will be a bit better with lighter offshores on Tuesday and Wednesday. Monday is looking onshore and ugly.

The blocking high that was sitting over Tassie for much of the week will begin moving E as the coastal trough deepens and shifts further S.

Winds will swing around to the N/NE and strengthen towards Wednesday afternoon/Thursday ahead of a cooler W/SW change.

Waves will start at 4-5ft out of the E on Monday but ease towards 2-3ft and more out of the E/NE but the time winds swing around to the W/SW with the cooler change. 

Anyway we are getting a bit ahead of ourselves now, let’s keep an eye on things and go into more detail on next week’s waves on Friday. 

Comments

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Wednesday, 17 Mar 2021 at 5:50pm

Similar to last year....
2020 March 8-19, howling onshore slop and rain
2020 March 20-21, a 3ft+ and offshore reprieve
2020 March 24-25, howling onshore slop and rain
...it wasn't until the 30th that Autumn hung around.

tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir Wednesday, 17 Mar 2021 at 6:05pm

I recall March 31 and April 2nd last year as incredible days for surf. Offshores till 10am, blue skies, crystal clear water.....

Jiiimmy's picture
Jiiimmy's picture
Jiiimmy Wednesday, 17 Mar 2021 at 8:22pm

Any chance of making the forecasts a little more area centric? It’s a massive distance between Port Macquarie and the Sunshine Coast. I think a true Northern NSW through to the Sunny Coast would be great. To be frank. I don’t really care too much about what’s happening south of Ballina. Unless I happen to be down there of course! Surely there must be enough surfers on the GC/SC to justify our own forecast?

Min laden's picture
Min laden's picture
Min laden Wednesday, 17 Mar 2021 at 8:59pm

I'm backing up jiiimmys comment there, apart from this being one of the more content rich forecasts for the sunny coast region there's still a lot of info of no interest to sift through...maybe a part A and a part B...or an A grade and B grade hehe

Serendipity60's picture
Serendipity60's picture
Serendipity60 Wednesday, 17 Mar 2021 at 10:43pm

Ditto. Often wondered how many subscribers live Coffs to Byron and how many live Agnes to Byron. Surely north of Byron deserves a stand alone forecast based on numbers of subscriptions ? The coast faces a different direction north of Byron.

silentp's picture
silentp's picture
silentp Thursday, 18 Mar 2021 at 6:37pm

Careful there, the last time I brought this up I got accused of being spoonfed.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Thursday, 18 Mar 2021 at 8:53am

Thats a huge pod of Dolphins frolicking at the Pass atm.

James KC's picture
James KC's picture
James KC Thursday, 18 Mar 2021 at 9:09am

Interesting point you guys make regarding SE QLD, N NSW and Mid N Coast all being in the same forecast. For sure it's a huge area and difficult to distinguish what's happening where and when concisely.

I'll do my best to summarise for each area tomorrow and see how we go. All taken on board.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 18 Mar 2021 at 10:41am

No naming breaks of course!!

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 18 Mar 2021 at 10:48am

How about a please there Don!

Jiiimmy's picture
Jiiimmy's picture
Jiiimmy Thursday, 18 Mar 2021 at 4:11pm

Cheers James! You’re doing a great job BTW!

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Thursday, 18 Mar 2021 at 9:58pm

good job James, I always find the forecasts pretty spot on (im in lennox). Def a tough crowd on this page i find, which is pretty surprising.
Keep up the good work

surfiebum's picture
surfiebum's picture
surfiebum Thursday, 18 Mar 2021 at 9:43am

Amazing what a couple of seconds in the period can do. Pretty fun on the SC this morning

tiger's picture
tiger's picture
tiger Thursday, 18 Mar 2021 at 11:29am

Fucking hosing down rain at my place, over 100mm of rain already today. Water around here is going to be poo for some time!

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 18 Mar 2021 at 11:39am

And there's plenty more to come over the coming days :o

scott.kempton's picture
scott.kempton's picture
scott.kempton Thursday, 18 Mar 2021 at 3:33pm

Love the forecasts as always no going to work now til mid next week

Serendipity60's picture
Serendipity60's picture
Serendipity60 Thursday, 18 Mar 2021 at 8:28pm

Yep. Great concise notes James.
Being spoon fed those outlook summaries at the beginning of forecast notes suits me fine.
Great time of year in SE QLD.
Frothing for Autumn.

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Thursday, 18 Mar 2021 at 9:31pm

The longevity of the low NE of NZ is impressive, be interesting to see what comes of that.

Distracted's picture
Distracted's picture
Distracted Friday, 19 Mar 2021 at 7:17am

Geez that was some rain yesterday/ last night. Lower Macleay is almost at 300mm. Going to be another few weeks of dirty water on the beaches.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 19 Mar 2021 at 7:43am

yep, no disputes over La Nina's impact now for most of the most ENSO sensitive areas.

tiger's picture
tiger's picture
tiger Friday, 19 Mar 2021 at 9:46am

Still pissing down. Flooded in, but don't think I'm missing much. Can't see much chance of "windows of decent winds".

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Friday, 19 Mar 2021 at 10:00am

Crazy amounts of rain. Thank Christ we put the new roof on just before summer.

It’s fun to cruise around and check the effects of so much precipitation as long as a tree doesn’t fall on you. 300mm in 24 hours I think!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 19 Mar 2021 at 10:36am

half of the big ancient fig tree that the developers poisoned last summer went down last night.

fukn crack!

widow maker.

Ben Harding's picture
Ben Harding's picture
Ben Harding Friday, 19 Mar 2021 at 4:15pm

Former project arborist speaking haha, did the Ballina shire council have the fortitude to do anything other place a sign on the tree saying it's been poisoned and under investigation? I've worked for/with councils in South East Queensland and a year in Sydney, and policy has always been all bark and no bite for the most part. It astounds me their apetite for enforcing policy or thoroughly investigating issues such as this is minimal.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 19 Mar 2021 at 1:19pm

council botanist and ecologists put it in too hard basket.

also said the measly fine even if conviction secured was chicken feed for developer compared to the price of the extra blocks they can now sell.

Ben Harding's picture
Ben Harding's picture
Ben Harding Friday, 19 Mar 2021 at 2:23pm

Thats what I was expecting to hear. Although I was thinking maybe northern rivers LGAs might have a bit more go in em.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 19 Mar 2021 at 10:45am

Fine and sunny on the Tweed, strong, clean 4-5ft+ sets. 

scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Friday, 19 Mar 2021 at 11:02pm

8/10 rating for this morning on the gc?

Ben Harding's picture
Ben Harding's picture
Ben Harding Friday, 19 Mar 2021 at 2:21pm

Was right up there where I surfed not far where you mentioned real early Pulled into plenty of closeouts barrels on setwaves caught on the outside bank that offered plenty of wall first up. I reckon all things considered this morning was the best it's been all week, although lovers has been pumping all week too.

tiger's picture
tiger's picture
tiger Friday, 19 Mar 2021 at 1:13pm

Well, as far as ridiculous amounts of water falling out of the sky. Today just told yesterday to, "Hold my beer!".

Distracted's picture
Distracted's picture
Distracted Friday, 19 Mar 2021 at 3:10pm

It’s fascinating how intense these coastal lows can be. If you’re on the underside it’s onshore Armageddon, but then once it moves down the coast you can pop out into offshore winds and patches of blue sky.... I’m still in the Armageddon rain zone at the moment, going to be interesting tonight with the rivers rising quickly