Don't stop 'till you get enough (ex-TC Lucas remix)
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 5th February)
Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)
- Strong E'ly groundswell rebuilding Sat (undersized early AM, biggest PM, slowly easing Sun)
- Light winds and sea breezes both days
- Fresh S/SE winds Mon - Thurs
- Interesting long period S/SE and E'ly swells due around Fri
Recap: What a run! E’ly trade swells maintained 4-5ft sets on Thursday, but a stronger E’ly groundswell filled in this morning, delivering 6ft sets to most coasts, with a few locations nudging 6-8ft at times. This has overpowered most of the beaches but regional points/reefs have delivered excellent waves with early light winds both days. Hope you’ve managed to get some.
This weekend (Feb 6 - 7)
Incredibly, we’ve got more of the same for the weekend.
Ex-TC Lucas has been slow moving south of New Caledonia over the last few days, and is actually restrengthening today - though as an extra-tropical low - which will generate a renewal of strong swell for Saturday.
Interestingly, the models aren’t really picking up the new energy very well - if anything showing a slight easing trend from today into tomorrow as the swell periods theoretically nudges downwards both days - but I this we’ll see surf size rebuild back into the 6-8ft range at exposed locations in SE Qld and Far Northern NSW on Saturday (slightly smaller south from about Yamba).
Because of the way ex-TC Lucas has redeveloped, the timing of the expected pulse has shifted around a little, so I’m now expecting early Saturday to be slightly undersized (i.e. expect a slightly decrease in size from today) though local conditions are looking much the same across all coasts with light morning winds and moderate afternoon sea breezes (SE in the north, NE in the south).
We’ll see maximum surf size through the afternoon, and of course, it’ll be smaller at protected locations - though the easterly swell direction will favour quality surf across most coasts. It probably won’t be a day for the open beaches though, unless you can jag a few early waves before the new energy kicks in at strength.
By Saturday morning the Tasman fetch will start to ease, and rotate anticlockwise towards southern coasts. This will lead to a gradual decrease in size throughout Sunday, more prominently in the north than in the south - so in fact the Mid North Coast may not see any major size drop on Sunday. But north from Byron Bay we’re likely to see early 5-6ft sets at exposed spots ease to 3-5ft through the day (as per usual, smaller running down the points). Similar winds are expected everywhere on Sunday, light and variable with sea breezes.
Next week (Feb 8 onwards)
NE winds from the remnants of ex-TC Lucas will hang across the northern/central Tasman Sea into Sunday, which means we’ll see plenty of E’ly swell through Monday (3-5ft) and Tuesday (2-3ft). Though this size range will be confined to the Mid North Coast, with smaller surf north from Yamba or perhaps Ballina. Throughout SE Qld we’ll probably see 3ft+ open beaches Monday morning, easing to 2ft by lunchtime (smaller on the points), holding through Tuesday.
A southerly change is expected to push up the coast through the day, with perhaps a slight lag across SE Qld, allowing an early window of SW winds north from Byron - but overall we’ll see the best conditions confined to protected southern corners and points.
This airstream will remain anchored across the coast through Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday. Pockets of lighter SW winds are possible at a few spots, but probably not broadly speaking until Wednesday.
Small trade swells will fill out most of next week, from a modest ridge holding north of New Zealand over the weekend, but given the last week (or more!) of waves it’s not worth getting too excited about. We’ll also see some short range S’ly swell thanks to the local fetch adjacent the coast (3ft+ sets south facing beaches, south of Byron, smaller elsewhere), but I can’t see anything worthwhile opening up.
However, the long term has very good potential.
A weak Southern Ocean front will merge with a small Tasman Low (off New Zealand’s South Island) around Tuesday, generating a tight fetch of storm force S/SE winds off the South Coast of the South Island overnight into Wednesday (see below) and this is shaping up to deliver an excellent S/SE thru’ SE groundswell, arriving sometime late Thursday, peaking Friday. Early indications are for occasional 4-5ft+ sets at exposed south facing beaches in Northern NSW, but I’ll revise this figure in Monday’s notes. We’ll see much smaller surf from this source in SE Qld.
The other interesting synoptic feature is another tropical cyclone expected to form near Fiji over the weekend, and then drift south. However, as mentioned in Craig’s article yesterday, it’s not going to generate anywhere near as much surf for us, thanks to the lack of a supporting ridge to the south (and a rapid southerly track, perpendicular to the swell window).
That being said, the early stages of its path out of the Fijian swell shadow should display a reasonable fetch of 30-40kt winds so I am comfortable that we’ll see inconsistent 3-4ft sets across all coasts.
More interestingly, its timing is similar to that of the aforementioned S/SE groundswell - late Thurs/Fri - so the combination of two long period swells from somewhat opposing directions could create some interesting double-ups across the East Coast. And the coastal ridge should relax by this time allowing for light winds.
Anyway, this all requires further scrutiny on Monday.
Have a great weekend, see you then!
Comments
M J oh baby
Never a fan actually, but always happy to borrow a good turn of phrase.
Haha, I only came here for the headline, and the forecasts, and the articles, etc etc etc
Classic!
Just hoping my little pun wasn’t completely lost.
Bring Back the Mo Jo !!!
Yeeewwww dawnie!!
How's those four unridden waves at First Point Noosa!
Also, interesting to read back through my FC Notes, and Craig's articles prior to this E'ly event, so see how we discussed its potential evolution:
Thursday 14th Jan (over 3 weeks ago): “Over the coming fortnight this strengthening MJO signal is forecast to move east towards us and this will bring that injection of tropical instability to the region. With this we'll hopefully see the trade-pattern kick back in late in the month/February and depending on the strength of the MJO, likely a cyclone or two.”
Friday 22nd (2 weeks ago): “Long term maintains a whole stack of near-stationary swell sources in the Northern Tasman Sea, lower Coral Sea and South Pacific, so it looks like we’ll be back to the easterly swell machine for quite a few weeks.
Monday 25th (10 days ago): The tropics are about to fire up under the passage of an MJO phase, and we’ve got no end in sight for the easterly swell machine. This pattern is expected supercharge the trade flow across the Northern Tasman Sea and South Pacific from this weekend onwards (see below), and there’s a distinct possibility that one or two Tropical Cyclones may drop south from the Fijian region, adding even more energy into the mix.
MJO baby!
Ben, Craig & team,
That is why I pay subscription, and also the 4 cameras on my local which BTW should be for my exclusive use.
Renewal came through this week, keep up the great work.
Send some down here Ben.......please!
(and NW wind. Don't forget the NW wind.)
Easterly cyclone swell would look a little odd on the TQ reefs!
I actually once dreamed of this last year and it looked so amazing. Was proper upset when I woke up in my dark room
Nailed it Ben cheers !
Surfed for about 2hours up at Double Island this morning, my first time there. Wasn’t quite working. There was swell but just didn’t seem to be finding any appropriate sand to make it work.
Hoping we get a period of 3-4ft energy with light winds on the back of this event.
See crg’s comment below
Any chance commenters in the forecast notes could go back to talking in general terms of their surf and not name exact spots?
Just a courtesy.
Second that
Third that. FFS
Also a week after the swell stops not while it's still on, kids these days *shakes crook finger*
Oh, fourth that.
And all the details, some not quite right, commenters may be playing games too, using the comments section to steer the undecided.
And thanks Huey, farken awesome!
what about all the photos. no diff.
It’s probably just etiquette. Please be nice and just say you had a good wave here or there in general terms. There’s no need to give coordinates and updates on all the banks, wind speed and direction all over the place, even though anyone with half a brain can work out the finer details ( yes even with the photos which I agree in most cases makes it even more obvious)
The difference I think is the requirement. The exact location is not required.
There’s a big difference in saying the “north end of the sunny coast” as opposed to “the third gate south of the castaways car park”
So if you could only surf one day of the weekend in Coffs Harbour, would you pick the Saturday or the Sunday??
Hit the hoey moey all weekend then rip it up Monday
Wednesday. Obviously.
Don't bother its no good
Yesterday was hard work.
Up early for a couple of hours work as per usual, managed to sneak out the door at half seven, spent twenty minutes checking the local spot, but nothing really happening, a little too big and slightly wobbly.
Needed to make a quick decision as there was a pile of work waiting in the office. Only options were a dash to the Superbank or the Pass. Chose the latter, so headed out to the M1.
No further than 100m off the downramp, and the phone rang - it's my wife.
"Seems to be one school shoe left in the back of your car."
Shit.
Had to turn the car around.
But, the M1 doesn't allow U-eys, so the only option was to drive down to the next overpass turn off - thirteen kilometres away, a twenty six kilometre round trip. In actuality, pushing near 35 kays to drop off the offending footwear.
Made it home, checked the Pass cam and saw a steady stream of punters washed off the bank and down towards Main Beach, and decided that perhaps the building swell could overpower things in the short term - so decided to head back to the local. Surf was noticeably bigger and stronger than an hour earlier, couldn't see a single punter in the water. Another fifteen minutes wasted. So, I trudged into the office with my tail between the legs.
The rest of the morning was spent attempting to work, whilst our Cooly cams streamed HD on the big office TV screen, allowing for zero productivity. Could I swing an arvo surf? My wife had arranged to head out with some friends, and had given very strict instructions to be home by 6pm (an hour before I usually get home), but with the Tweed Coast maxed out, it was once again a choice between the Pass or Cooly.
Chose the latter, as I figured it was about time to renew my "why I never surf the Superbank" membership card anyway. Besides I was much more confident in a successful navigation of peak-time traffic on the Gold Coast than in Byron.
Jumped in the car, begin the dash north, and the phone rings. It's the car repair place - they want to pick up my car first thing Monday morning to fix the hail damage, it'll take two weeks.
Righto, I said, where do I get the hire car from? You'll have to call the insurer, they reply.
So I place a call to the insurer as I draw closer to Cooly. Thirteen car-assisted teleprompts later, I'm concurrently pulling into the carpark and speaking to the call centre, who need thirty minutes of my time to finalise the hire car booking.
"Ah, I've gotta jump into a meeting. Can we do this later?"
"Call centre closes at 5pm, and we're not open over the weekend, so if you don't stay on the phone now, you won't have a car Monday".
Shit!
I persevere for ten minutes, waxing up and applying sunscreen as I shoulder-hold the phone and navigate their questions. Eventually they put me on hold to call the hire car joint, and I stare up the Superbank lineup, mindsurfing waves that are never without a few takers. The clock is ticking. I'm sweating in the Queensland sun.
Finally, after ten minutes of on-hold silence, I can't take it anymore. I'll deal with this on Monday morning. I gotta surf. I'll cycle to work.
Dash up the point, manage a dry-hair paddle out between lully sets, and to my great surprise, catch three decent waves in twenty minutes. Three more than most Superbank sessions in the last two decades. That's good enough for me.
Manage to get in and make the hire car booking with ten minutes to spare.
Dunno when I'll next surf the Superbank. But gee, despite the crowd, it's so easy to see the attraction. There were some incredible waves.
And did you get home by 6pm?
Half an hour to spare!
A great day all round then.
But if I'm being a little picky you might not have finished all your work. I think you forgot to hit send on the Sydney notes notification emails but that's all good, we all know where to find them :-)
Must have......lived to tell the tale!!
You made the right call , the pass wasnt very good , in the morning, at least , such hard work & so few swells hitting the bank properly.
Second that far too much sweep
So you had a great day Ben.
Hey, it’s all good, the kid got to school with two shoes and you got 3 great waves! Woohoo.
Nice story Ben and well done. More so on the happy wife front.
that old shoe left in the car trick kills me every fcuking time.
"take him down the op shop and get another pair!"
Glassy 6ft sets on the Tweed beaches. Was stoked enough just to punch through the bank and make it out. Sets were relentless.
Hi Ben, is forecasted bump
In swell this afternoon impacting sunny coast? Swell still quite east, so hopefully. Beaches have been solid and a little rippy, but some people are getting the barrel of there lives,
Solid 4-6 this morning.
No reason why it shouldn't offer a broad spread of new energy to most coasts.
Brisbane buoy picking up the stronger energy this morning (from about 9am onwwards), though it's not as apparent on the Tweed or M'bah buoys yet.
Epic. Cheers.
Searched from ballina to GC this morning, what a shithole piece of shit Coast! No good sand deposits anywhere and not bothered about the stupidbank.
You must’ve missed the 4-6’ spitting barrels on your travels
Palm Beach buoy is showing a small pocket of long period energy at 17-18 seconds. Dominant energy still around 12 seconds though.
https://imgur.com/gallery/mxeWpXj Whale shark washed up noosa rocks
That's really sad
That is sad because that chap has been around for a while and caused no harm.
The video shows a big group swimming it offshore so hopefully it’s unharmed
last weeks news, they coaxed it back out to sea.
Lucky to be 3ft on my stretch of coast smorn, bit bigger this afternoon.
Tweed buoy now showing the new pulse but a quick evening check at the beach revealed very inconsistent set waves, didn't see anything notably bigger than the morning, one set the 6ft+ range otherwise rather slow. Will be interesting to see what the morning reveals.
solid here this arvo. big increase in energy.
Five hours in the water Friday, Three hours today. Happy but stuffed! Some great waves on offer.
You should speak to Rockethut
Haha I'm just hard to please! After getting perfect uncrowded waves all my life it's difficult to adjust to this crap.
It's either cooking and crowded or shit and uncrowded.
Tweed buoy shows the expected final pulse arrived somewhere near dinnertime and peaked before midnight, before easing through the early hours of this morning. Because there was little wind locally (and thus negligible windswell contamination), we can use wave heights as a reliable trend proxy. Of course, spectral data is best.
Interestingly, Brisbane showed a broad peak from mid-morning onwards until early evening; Palm Beach showed a peak from early afternoon through mid-evening. Hsig was largest at Brisbane but only by a small amount.
Collectively, the buoy data shows that this final pulse of swell reached Brisbane first and then propagated southwards, which suggests an E/NE swell direction (though, the Brisbane buoy suffers the least from directional attenuation, and was almost dead east the whole time; Tweed and Palmy were E/NE prior to yesterday, but Saturday's pulse trended to the east).
Anyway, all useful hindcast info. Data below: Brisbane first, then Palmy, then Tweed.
Bloody nailed it Ben.
I was sitting at the beach,south Sunshine Coast at 6pm and seen some 8ft sets and the ocean had a whole lot more energy then the morning.
Unreal.. thanks for the feedback.
Overnight swell peaks are the bane of my existence.
Sunny Coast looking dreamy this AM.
Coupla Coolum Closeouts
Eh? Looks pretty decent to me.
Yeah it’s pumping! But usually a Closeout. Alitterally - Should’ve changed it to Coupla Coolum Caverns
10/10 sc
Cooked my eyes surfing so much on Thursday/Friday. Had to have the past 2 days off...Not just my eyes hurting now seeing how good the SC is today
Still some 6ft+ sets on the Tweed this morning. Managed to get out of their way, thankfully.
At a particularly south facing beach this morning Ben?
Nah. Same spot as yesterday. Picks up every direction pretty well, though wouldn't call it south facing.
Ok. Would you call it a back beach but?
Solid down here...probably the peak combo of swell and quality conditions so far :)
Seen turtles in the water almost every session over the last few weeks, which is, I'm told, one of the reasons why a tiger shark was patrolling the lineup this morning. Def an eerie vibe this morning though yesterday wasn't the same.
5/10 sc
The screenshots arent necessary..... If people want to know how coolum is they can look for themselves. No need to promote it anymore than a surfcam already does.
People go apeshit over naming a spot....but thats literally what ur doing.... as well as providing a photo!!!
Not quite the same as naming double island point which doesn’t have a camera and is a little more remote.
Yep, agree. Use the site all the time but the screenshots rub me the wrong way.
Yep agree to on screen shots
They always use the ‘its great for hindcasting’ shtick but apart from SN itself I don’t think people want or need screenshots.
As for ‘if it’s got a camera it’s open season...’ I don’t think anyone gets a say in where they go do they? I mean from D’bah - Kirra there are 8 and Currumbin-Palmy 5. They do it because they can.
Just the same as you don’t see footage on here of Cronulla point or North Narra a couple of hours after they broke.
Nope. If it’s got a cam it’s open season on screenshots.
Sharing is caring, we love to share on the GC... we aspire to be a collective society & welcome crowds & drop-ins.
I agree on the goldy, however living here there are little windows or corners forgotten often..
also noticed the new cam at palmy - where is that located?
Couldn't find any good sand on the SC this morning. Couple of well-known peaks/outside points were working but hefty crew on them. Woe is me.
And my 0.02 on the screenshots/spot-naming : there's nothing wrong imo with Ben leveraging easily-accessible infrastructure to point out favourable conditions. The Swellnet cameras really only show the well-known spots anyway. Would prefer the Coolum Bays cam to be nixed, but it is what it is. Better than old mate Spinksy name-dropping the best banks on Coastalwatch/Surfline, Robbie Sherwell blaring out his recommendations each morning on the radio, and those flipping regional surfing Facebook groups.
I'm all for exploration and secrecy. Getting annoyed at peeps reporting on the likes of Noosa/Superbank/The Pass, however would be nonsensical.
All i can say is u mother f#$&ers. Nothing to report down south :(