Windy conditions for a while, next week looks good

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 19th August)

Best Days: Sun: keep an eye out for a small flukey S'ly swell. Mon/Tues: solid S'ly swell with improving conditions.

Recap: Leftover, easing S'ly swells and building E’ly swells were biggest in Northern NSW on Thursday, reaching 3-4ft south from Byron though with smaller surf throughout SE Qld, peaking near 2-3ft in the afternoon, unfortunately at the same time as northerly winds developed. Early morning offered good clean waves with light winds. Today has seen the E’ly swell ease significantly, and a small N’ly windswell has showed across north-facing beaches of SE Qld and Far Northern NSW with occasional 2ft sets early (smaller later). Winds have freshened from the NW all day, favouring northern corners. 

N'ly windswell at Burleigh

Early wind waves at Currumbin

Small clean windswell at Coolum

This week (Aug 20 - 21)

Winds will become fresh and gusty over the next four or five days, strong at times in the south, and with a W/NW alignment until about Sunday when we’ll see more of a SW tend before swinging S’ly into Monday. Winds will be lighter across Far Northern NSW and SE Qld but it’ll still be breezey at times. 

As for surf, the current swells are easing but there’s some small, lingering E’ly swell likely to keep exposed beaches from becoming flat. No major size is expected both days and with the energy being sourced from the South Pacific it’ll be terribly inconsistent, but the odd 1-2ft+ set can’t be ruled out both days. However, it’ll be very chilly thanks to the presence of long, windy breaks between set waves. 

Northern NSW’s south swell magnets (mainly south from Coffs) may also pick up a small S’ly on Friday, originating from a developing fetch of SW gales exiting eastern Bass Strait early Thursday. It’s poorly aligned for our coast but swell magnets might see occasional 2ft sets from this source. So, keep your expectations low.

This weekend (Aug 22 - 23)

Strengthening westerlies all weekend will reach gale force or stronger across the Mid North Coast at times, and it’ll be pretty fresh across SE Qld too.

This fetch looks terrible on paper - due westerly, pointed away forth coast - but the sheer breadth and strength of the fetch, plus its duration means we can’t rule out a small spread of funky south swell across Far Northern NSW and even SE Qld this weekend. It’s happened before, but is a very low confidence event so keep your expectations low.

At this stage Saturday is shaping up to see similarly small, residual, extremely inconsistent E’ly swell as per Friday - only just surfable at the swell magnets and somewhat wind affected.

Any new S’ly swell spread will probably show from Sunday morning. How big? Who knows.. but as a ballpark, likely flat at most beaches, 1-2ft at some south facing beaches, and maybe the odd 2-3ft rare bomb at one or two swell magnets. Let’s take a closer look on Friday.

Next week (Aug 24 onwards)

The Tasman Low generating this large south swell looks pretty impressive on the synoptics, and rightly so (see below). Monday’s peak in size should push 6-8ft at south facing beaches in Northern NSW, but we’ll see much smaller surf elsewhere. 

SE Qld will see a building trend during the day and late afternoon should push 2-3ft+ across the outer Gold Coast points but Tuesday morning is a safer bet for this peak in energy. Expect a little less size across the Sunny Coast, and wave heights will then ease steadily across all regions during the day. 

Winds will initially be fresh SW in the south on Monday but we’ll see light winds in SE Qld, which will extend across all coasts into Tuesday.

A series of strong but poorly aligned polar lows/fronts in the Southern Ocean reinforcing southerly swell around Wed/Thurs with occasional 3-4ft sets at south facing beaches south of Byron, but much smaller surf elsewhere. An unrelated front may also clip the coast around the same time, keeping wind direction from the southern quadrant.

Long term doesn’t have anything of major interest at this stage, so let’s keep a close eye on potential windows of opportunity early next week at your favourite southerly-focused beaches.

See you then!

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 20 Aug 2020 at 6:16am

Thick smoke about the Caba region yesterday.. first bushfire of the season.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Thursday, 20 Aug 2020 at 7:08am

Out of control burn off?
I thought there'd still be plenty of moisture on the ground though after a pretty wet winter.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 20 Aug 2020 at 7:38am

Not much around, but the odd small wave at the swell magnets.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Thursday, 20 Aug 2020 at 8:11am

Stiff offshore holding up little head dip kegs running off on a thigh deep bank with NCO, happy days.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 20 Aug 2020 at 8:50am

Urgent! I repeat Urgent! Can we get a medic team specialising in hallucinogens to the Sunny Coast, stat!

surfiebum's picture
surfiebum's picture
surfiebum Thursday, 20 Aug 2020 at 9:43am

I think it's ok - sprout's only spilling the beans after there's no chance of the session happening again.

SO much fun yesterday lunchtime!!

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Thursday, 20 Aug 2020 at 9:58am

Hahaha, spot on surfiebum - the first rule of good surf club is, you do not talk about good surf club (talk it down!)... and yep, too much tide killed it by 8am. Love those sneaky dawnys.

*edit* I was off chops, it was shit, everyone stay in bed.

scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Thursday, 20 Aug 2020 at 11:37am

i found something similar yesterday a bit further south. inconsistent, but peaky little kegs around 2ft.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 20 Aug 2020 at 8:16am

dead flat here.

thick haze....not sure if smoke or dust.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 20 Aug 2020 at 8:19am

Be smoke from the fire?

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 20 Aug 2020 at 8:25am

the grass fire at D-bah?

it's thick from the west through sou-west though.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 20 Aug 2020 at 8:33am

Aghh.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 20 Aug 2020 at 10:52am
freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 20 Aug 2020 at 8:50am

it's a dust storm.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 20 Aug 2020 at 11:47am

Still a few occasional sets on the Tweed Coast (below is an auto grab!) but it's getting pretty windy out there. Seaway gusting 26kts, Byron gusting 31kts.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 20 Aug 2020 at 4:08pm

Still a few lines of leftover east swell at Sunshine.

Troppo's picture
Troppo's picture
Troppo Thursday, 20 Aug 2020 at 9:01pm

Love your optimism Ben!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 21 Aug 2020 at 6:14am

Grow up on the South Oz Mid Coast, and glasses tend to be half full.

Though, the reality is I actually saved these images for hindcasting purposes - it confirms there was some small lingering E'ly swell all day (which didn't happen in Southern NSW).