Plenty of cyclone swell, tricky winds to work around

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Monday 30th December)

Best Days: Plenty of surf for the entire period, but local N/NE winds will greatly affect wave quality south from Ballina (it'll still influence surf conditions elsewhere, but not to the same degree).

Recap: Fun trade swells have dominated the last few days, holding 3ft across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW, with slightly smaller surf south from Yamba. Winds have been light and variable through the mornings, and moderate onshore into the afternoon (though fresh NE winds have been reported across the Mid North Coast). Today has seen a slight strengthening of easterly swell, as the first round of cyclone swell from TC Sarai makes landfall, sets of 4ft have been reported up and down the Far Northern NSW and SE Qld coasts. Interestingly, there’s no discernible change in trend across the spectral data buoys (see Tweed, below). Winds have been relatively light all day in SE Qld and Far Northern NSW, but we’re seeing freshening NE winds across the Mid North Coast again.

Lotsa lumpy lines at the Superbank

Looking fun at Surfers Paradise

No significant trends standing out on the Tweed spectral buoy, to account for today's pulse

This week (Dec 31 - Jan 3)

So, with cyclone swell starting to push through the region on schedule, we have to make a call whether to follow model guidance or not.

At the moment, despite TC Sarai being a distant system with a poorly aligned core fetch, I am still of the opinion that there are more positives than negatives associated with this event. The strongest flank of the cyclone is aimed towards Vanuatu, but there’s still a reasonable E’ly fetch on its southern side that's moved very little over the last few days (with a similar forecast through the middle of this week).

We’re likely to see swell energy pulse intermittently from this source over the next four or five days, with maximum energy likely Tuesday afternoon and early Wednesday, and then again at some point on Thursday (either side of these peaks, expect smaller surf, especially Friday). 

Our model still isn’t really liking this system but I’m going to hold steady with my expectation that peak surf heights this week will offer occasional 4-6ft sets at exposed beaches - mainly Far Northern NSW - with smaller surf elsewhere, including the regional points. And it'll be very inconsistent too, thanks to the large travel distance.

As for local conditions, there’s no change to the expectation for a dominant, gusty N/NE flow for the next six days (until Sunday afternoon). This synoptic flow will be most pronounced across the Mid North Coast, and wind speeds will become lighter as you head north - of which SE Qld and Far Northern NSW could see variable periods most mornings. The broader regional airstream will become lighter Thurs/Fri as the responsible Tasman high breaks down, ahead of a brand new high settling in for the weekend, so this will probably offer the ‘best’ conditions of the week. 

As a side note, we’re already seeing some decent cold upwelling across the Mid North Coast and this may encroach parts of Far Northern NSW as the week progresses (mainly south from Byron). So, keep a vest or springy at the ready!

This weekend (Jan 4-5)

TC Sarai will track outside of our swell window by Wednesday so the weekend will see a further easing trend. And with synoptic northerlies picking up in strength again, it’s not looking good for most locations.

We’ll see windows of light morning winds in SE Qld and maybe Far Northern NSW, and with the open beaches easing from 3-4ft to 2-3ft during Saturday you’ll have to aim for a morning surf for the most size and best conditions. Expect smaller waves into Sunday with similar winds. We will probably see slightly smaller surf south from Yamba too, though it's looking to be quite wind affected here.

SE Qld may see a small underlying trade swell from a redeveloping fetch in the lower Coral Sea over the weekend but it’ll be much smaller than the pre-existing trade swell. 

Next week (Jan 6 onwards)

An intense mid-latitude Southern Ocean low will track below Tasmania over the weekend, though it’ll reach maximum strength as it rotates out of our swell window. As such, we’re looking at a small spread of S’ly swell from Monday through Tuesday, that should favour south facing beaches south of Byron with occasional 3ft waves. I’m not expecting much surf in SE Qld from this source, away from exposed northern ends. 

Even better - a stalled trough off Southern NSW will at least disrupt the northerly flow, and could result in light variable winds for a few days.  We need a little more time to validate this outlook though.

We’ll probably see some small residual E’ly swell throughout SE Qld early next week though no major size is expected.

Otherwise, this lingering troughiness to the south the coast has potential for another local system to develop in the Tasman Sea next week, though there's no clear indication of how that may eventuate (and which coast any resulting swell would favour). In any case, there’s not shortage of surf ahead. 

See you Wednesday!

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 30 Dec 2019 at 3:37pm

For the record, here's the Goldy model data for the next few days.
​​​​​​​

P'tai's picture
P'tai's picture
P'tai Monday, 30 Dec 2019 at 4:34pm

Tricky winds PFFFFT, Gale force and good for nothing.

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Monday, 30 Dec 2019 at 5:01pm

Sapphire Coast 2-3 cold water and 35-40kt NE. Same as last Xmas New Years sadly. Some fun back beaches, but fat and inconsistent. Meh

Ben Harding's picture
Ben Harding's picture
Ben Harding Monday, 30 Dec 2019 at 6:32pm

The surfers cam back up and running?

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Monday, 30 Dec 2019 at 6:47pm

Summary: slop forever, get a new hobby.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Monday, 30 Dec 2019 at 6:52pm

Surely a few Nth ends will pump in the morns up there?

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 4:30pm

Not with this wind.

Byrnesy1's picture
Byrnesy1's picture
Byrnesy1 Monday, 30 Dec 2019 at 9:31pm

Oddly we had westerly winds this morning on southern gold coast and what was expected a mid period swell. However it was about as lumpy at currumbin as it can get and almost unridable. I counted a 5 second wind swell in the mix that wasnt showing on any models. Do you expect the same conditions even as the period increases? If so the beachys might be a better pick?

Zwolffy's picture
Zwolffy's picture
Zwolffy Monday, 30 Dec 2019 at 8:42pm

Agnes?

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Monday, 30 Dec 2019 at 10:06pm

Not even.

Nogaryno's picture
Nogaryno's picture
Nogaryno Monday, 30 Dec 2019 at 9:34pm

Had a super fun overhead rip bowl on an open gc beach all alone at lunchtime today.
Would happily take these conditions any time.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 7:39am

Tweed buoy showing a strong, long period kick overnight.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 7:41am

Decent sized sets at Snapper too (check the stall in the last image!).



surfiebum's picture
surfiebum's picture
surfiebum Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 7:44am

And in news that will surprise no-one, the SC has been skunked...
Buoy has jumped, but it's smaller than yesterday.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 7:45am

Looking good across the Goldy, south to Coffs!

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 8:59am

Blown out buddy. Winds south of Grafton are 30kts

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 7:52am

Wide bank at Snapper getting a good workout (inside Greeny looking good between sets too!). These frames are all five to ten seconds apart.


Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 7:56am

Been blowing strong and relentless north / east here day and night for a few days.

I don’t know how crew here do it .

CMC's picture
CMC's picture
CMC Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 8:29am

Was just watching the pass on the camera, that place should be renamed the Farce

linez's picture
linez's picture
linez Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 8:38am

Greeny doesn't look crowded, might hit it up.....

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 9:13am

Doesn't look too shabby to me.

Robo's picture
Robo's picture
Robo Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 12:53pm

Was good a few hours before those shots, insane crowds for Coffs, car parks don't cope. That second shot is about where you need to stop the camera.

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 1:18pm

yeah Robo you nailed it....hear that Ben about the camera?

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 10:08am

Pumping!

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 10:46am

I witnessed a bloke towing into 3 foot close outs this morning.
I think I’ve just about seen everything ....

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 10:50am

Well besides the strong n wind blowing and the few very crowded spots its mainly long and strong 4-5ft closeouts ........

Rockethut's picture
Rockethut's picture
Rockethut Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 11:17am

Agreed simba chips.

Rockethut's picture
Rockethut's picture
Rockethut Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 11:19am

You can watch cams all day long. Reality is GC is crap, some peaks here and there with a couple turns or else very crowded at snapper area which doesn't count anyway. Sand at Burleigh and Currumbin is shit balls.

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 11:26am

Kirra?

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 12:25pm

you get some of that action IB?

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 2:25pm

Affirmatory, FR.

My work is done!

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 12:28pm

I’m just a blowin here , but it’s properly unbelievable how many crew are in town at the moment. This isn’t my first Xmas here and I’d say that it’s three times busier than I’ve ever seen the place.

Radical amounts of people. Maybe everyone is trying to escape the smoke in Sydney ? Shitloads of Vic, Qld and ACT too.

There was a lineup 15 people deep to use the fresh water showers next to the beach.

Surf is shit , ocean is too dirty to dive , wind is making most beaches unappealing, fishos can’t get out to sea.....the pub and the bottleO will be flat stick.

Everyone is smiling though . They don’t give a fuck . They’re not at work and they’re used to crowds i guess.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 12:31pm

be glad you aren't in Byron Bay.

although me and IB have been getting heaps of fun, bizarrely uncrowded waves.

although the high tide E swell rock off this morning was positively Evil. lots of blood and fibreglass sacrificed.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 12:57pm

Not blown out ?

Winds have been 20knots ne all night here. I woke up thinking it was pissing down but it was just the trees blowing sideways.

A little slice of Geraldton .

At least in Byron you’ve got hot girls to look at, the demographic here is full Griswold. My Rodney Dangerfield looks are right at home unfortunately.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 2:12pm

the totty around here, esp Byron is off the fuckng hook right now.

no wonder there's no young fellas surfing.

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 1:01pm

Was very solid on a byron back beach this morning, banks looked great, went to paddle out as the chopper chased everyone out due to a big white in the lineup...
Waited 30 mins then paddled out, bit spooky, was hard to get into a wave with so much water moving around and the wind up by that point.
Got smoked big school on the inside after halfa and came in.
Cant imagine there'll be many places to surf during this swell.
Tallows is rubbish

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 12:58pm

hahahah.......I had to get up at 3am today to do a bread delivery.
all I saw was glassy surf all morning, got back to the Point just after 10am.....no hangliders= no northerlies.

surfed semi-glassy 4-5ft cyclone swell with a handful of crew with just a whisper of onshore breeze.

my wife and son surfed a secret spot as good as it gets a little ways away that was out of the brunt of the swell.

not a bad way to end 2019.

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 2:30pm

Good to hear.

Surfed 5-7.30, and it got a bit crowded, but plenty of waves.

Easy rock off at low tide was a bonus.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 2:35pm

I’ve been back here for 11 days and haven’t seen a wave worth waxing up for.

Been riding the foamie again. It’s the surfing equivalent of maintaining a steady relationship with a fuck doll.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 5:13pm

I thought you’d be frothing to get some of the lefts that are going round at the moment?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 1:03pm

That's awesome Steve! And amazing. Another uncrowded surf here at midday, paddled out North Steyne, 2 others out, crowd got to maybe 5 or so around me. Chunky and great 4ft sets.

ilaydown's picture
ilaydown's picture
ilaydown Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 9:51pm

Standard protocol on the GC. As soon as Dbahs over 4ft, 90% of the crowd are out of their comfort zone and head for 2ft slow and fat snapper with 300 other blokes. Thank fk they don’t have to bottom turn. BUT HEY BRUV I SURFED SNAPPER THIS MORN’

alexsmith1's picture
alexsmith1's picture
alexsmith1 Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 6:31am

Mate more like 99% even at 2ft have NFI or respect, simply paddle when any bump approaches, ditch the board when trying to duck drive. The chicks on the beach dig me coz I surf!

ilaydown's picture
ilaydown's picture
ilaydown Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 6:18pm

Haha! Yep!

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Tuesday, 31 Dec 2019 at 10:09pm

Some serious swell in the water now.

Boogie_luv's picture
Boogie_luv's picture
Boogie_luv Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 9:04am

Some solid 4-6ft sets were had on a particular SC open beach. Finally some half decent surf for the SC!

surfiebum's picture
surfiebum's picture
surfiebum Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 9:34am

Epic morning to have gotten up for the early!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 9:35am

Just got home after a week and a half interstate. Hearing reports yesterday was really big on the Tweed, maxing out everywhere.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 9:46am

6+ at a few northern rivers spots with sweep to boot.
The waves a bit protected by bommies or headlands were much better in the 4-5 range.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 9:50am

Unreal. Pretty happy with forecast then.

dangerouskook2000's picture
dangerouskook2000's picture
dangerouskook2000 Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 2:24pm

forecast pretty bang on mate. hope you got the forecast for the 15 and 16th bang on too coz i'm booking a couple days off

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 12:54pm

huh?

nowhere near maxing out, unless your definition of a maxed out swell is 4-5ft, maybe a couple of 6footers in the mix.

I saw plenty of rideable waves on the Tweed and heaps of surfers riding them.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 2:24pm

Just reporting what I was told, from a reliable source. Was only a snapshot of the stretch they surfed though.

Mcface's picture
Mcface's picture
Mcface Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 3:59pm

I was at the north end of a NNSW beachie midday yesterday and from the top it looked about 4-5ft. Waxed up and ready to go I got down to the shore and it was easily 6ft on the big sets. Guys were out there, but it was seriously chunky. I gave it a shot but a bit above my paygrade i think and didn't take long before I got dragged back to shore.

Gunned it down to seal rocks in the hope of avoiding the northerlies to some success although admittedly it was much smaller.

dangerouskook2000's picture
dangerouskook2000's picture
dangerouskook2000 Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 2:29pm

Nah wasn't maxing out but wasn't very good either bit fat on the lower tide got some bombs but the bigger ones were too straight.
(shit. maybe maxing out? nah I didn't think so but I could be corrected)

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 2:33pm

I was on the Tweed doing a bread delivery and checked every spot between Kingscliff and Wooyung. Heaps of rideable surf, though not a great deal of true quality.

much bigger and better down my way.

it got scrappy in the afternoon on the low tide and 20 knots of nor-easter, but nowhere near maxed out.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 3:12pm

If sets are pushing 6ft that's pretty close to maxing out most spots I reckon. Really doesn't hold a lot of size around here, just big wobbly wash-through peaks. Best size range is 3-4ft IMO.

Richy's picture
Richy's picture
Richy Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 12:06pm

Very small on noosas points today. Yesterday was much better. The onshore wind was great. It kept the crowds down but in reality it was like surfing onshore maccas.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 1:19pm

But just in reverse!!

Walk around G's picture
Walk around G's picture
Walk around G Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 6:04pm

Onshore Maccas is still better than most waves I've ever surfed, such an amazing wave machine.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 12:15pm

Still plenty of strong, straight lines pushing across the Surfers stretch (high tide making it pretty full and fat), winds don't look to be too much of an issue right now. Fun inside shories too.



ilaydown's picture
ilaydown's picture
ilaydown Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 6:20pm

Looks good on cam but it was dog shit

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 2:28pm

Just came in from a surf, really strong 4-5ft sets with one or two bigger bombs. Sideshore winds not affecting things too much. Super warm water, though with scattered pockets of upwelling which seemed to become more pronounced through the session.

Robo's picture
Robo's picture
Robo Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 3:00pm

Water on the Coffs Coast is freezing, bigger than yesterday but not as good.

Luke02's picture
Luke02's picture
Luke02 Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 2:51pm

Funnest it has been on the SC for a long time this morning, plenty of push in the duckdives!

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 3:52pm

Any news on the new Palmy reef and Narrowneck?

P'tai's picture
P'tai's picture
P'tai Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 4:09pm

Walked across the road at 5am, paddled out with no one. Nice shoulder high left point break. First surf on the new Bonzer5. Such fun, half a dozen waves, then suddenly was joined by 20 - 25 boys from Newy. It certainly was not Happy Newy's year day after that..........went in, went to work.

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 4:30pm

Point was 4-5ft at 5am, and several beaches just south looked quite good.

Stopped at Kirra on way to airport, and it was half the size, blown out by N winds, but the water was so warm and blue and wonderful. Great little swim/bodybash.

Thank you FR and other locals for making our time here a special one. Genuinely surfed out.

linez's picture
linez's picture
linez Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 6:31pm

Genuinely surfed out.....

Bloody hell I miss that feeling.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 6:58pm

epic campaign you put in IB, you seem to be a lucky charm for surf.

nice to meet you mate.

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay Thursday, 2 Jan 2020 at 6:26am

My pleasure! Truly.

At home now, looking out the window at a flat Pacific. Not for long, though.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 2 Jan 2020 at 6:59am

Stoked ya scored, and yeah how's all the swell that's inbound from the south. Enjoy.

Robo's picture
Robo's picture
Robo Wednesday, 1 Jan 2020 at 5:18pm

Shark bite at Gallows at Coffs 7am this morning, lucky guy was sitting and not lying on his board, would of had a few teeth in lower leg, photos on dorsal app.