Plenty of cyclone swell, tricky winds to work around
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Monday 30th December)
Best Days: Plenty of surf for the entire period, but local N/NE winds will greatly affect wave quality south from Ballina (it'll still influence surf conditions elsewhere, but not to the same degree).
Recap: Fun trade swells have dominated the last few days, holding 3ft across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW, with slightly smaller surf south from Yamba. Winds have been light and variable through the mornings, and moderate onshore into the afternoon (though fresh NE winds have been reported across the Mid North Coast). Today has seen a slight strengthening of easterly swell, as the first round of cyclone swell from TC Sarai makes landfall, sets of 4ft have been reported up and down the Far Northern NSW and SE Qld coasts. Interestingly, there’s no discernible change in trend across the spectral data buoys (see Tweed, below). Winds have been relatively light all day in SE Qld and Far Northern NSW, but we’re seeing freshening NE winds across the Mid North Coast again.
This week (Dec 31 - Jan 3)
So, with cyclone swell starting to push through the region on schedule, we have to make a call whether to follow model guidance or not.
At the moment, despite TC Sarai being a distant system with a poorly aligned core fetch, I am still of the opinion that there are more positives than negatives associated with this event. The strongest flank of the cyclone is aimed towards Vanuatu, but there’s still a reasonable E’ly fetch on its southern side that's moved very little over the last few days (with a similar forecast through the middle of this week).
We’re likely to see swell energy pulse intermittently from this source over the next four or five days, with maximum energy likely Tuesday afternoon and early Wednesday, and then again at some point on Thursday (either side of these peaks, expect smaller surf, especially Friday).
Our model still isn’t really liking this system but I’m going to hold steady with my expectation that peak surf heights this week will offer occasional 4-6ft sets at exposed beaches - mainly Far Northern NSW - with smaller surf elsewhere, including the regional points. And it'll be very inconsistent too, thanks to the large travel distance.
As for local conditions, there’s no change to the expectation for a dominant, gusty N/NE flow for the next six days (until Sunday afternoon). This synoptic flow will be most pronounced across the Mid North Coast, and wind speeds will become lighter as you head north - of which SE Qld and Far Northern NSW could see variable periods most mornings. The broader regional airstream will become lighter Thurs/Fri as the responsible Tasman high breaks down, ahead of a brand new high settling in for the weekend, so this will probably offer the ‘best’ conditions of the week.
As a side note, we’re already seeing some decent cold upwelling across the Mid North Coast and this may encroach parts of Far Northern NSW as the week progresses (mainly south from Byron). So, keep a vest or springy at the ready!
This weekend (Jan 4-5)
TC Sarai will track outside of our swell window by Wednesday so the weekend will see a further easing trend. And with synoptic northerlies picking up in strength again, it’s not looking good for most locations.
We’ll see windows of light morning winds in SE Qld and maybe Far Northern NSW, and with the open beaches easing from 3-4ft to 2-3ft during Saturday you’ll have to aim for a morning surf for the most size and best conditions. Expect smaller waves into Sunday with similar winds. We will probably see slightly smaller surf south from Yamba too, though it's looking to be quite wind affected here.
SE Qld may see a small underlying trade swell from a redeveloping fetch in the lower Coral Sea over the weekend but it’ll be much smaller than the pre-existing trade swell.
Next week (Jan 6 onwards)
An intense mid-latitude Southern Ocean low will track below Tasmania over the weekend, though it’ll reach maximum strength as it rotates out of our swell window. As such, we’re looking at a small spread of S’ly swell from Monday through Tuesday, that should favour south facing beaches south of Byron with occasional 3ft waves. I’m not expecting much surf in SE Qld from this source, away from exposed northern ends.
Even better - a stalled trough off Southern NSW will at least disrupt the northerly flow, and could result in light variable winds for a few days. We need a little more time to validate this outlook though.
We’ll probably see some small residual E’ly swell throughout SE Qld early next week though no major size is expected.
Otherwise, this lingering troughiness to the south the coast has potential for another local system to develop in the Tasman Sea next week, though there's no clear indication of how that may eventuate (and which coast any resulting swell would favour). In any case, there’s not shortage of surf ahead.
See you Wednesday!
Comments
For the record, here's the Goldy model data for the next few days.
Tricky winds PFFFFT, Gale force and good for nothing.
Sapphire Coast 2-3 cold water and 35-40kt NE. Same as last Xmas New Years sadly. Some fun back beaches, but fat and inconsistent. Meh
The surfers cam back up and running?
Summary: slop forever, get a new hobby.
Surely a few Nth ends will pump in the morns up there?
Not with this wind.
Oddly we had westerly winds this morning on southern gold coast and what was expected a mid period swell. However it was about as lumpy at currumbin as it can get and almost unridable. I counted a 5 second wind swell in the mix that wasnt showing on any models. Do you expect the same conditions even as the period increases? If so the beachys might be a better pick?
Agnes?
Not even.
Had a super fun overhead rip bowl on an open gc beach all alone at lunchtime today.
Would happily take these conditions any time.
Tweed buoy showing a strong, long period kick overnight.
Decent sized sets at Snapper too (check the stall in the last image!).
And in news that will surprise no-one, the SC has been skunked...
Buoy has jumped, but it's smaller than yesterday.
Looking good across the Goldy, south to Coffs!
Blown out buddy. Winds south of Grafton are 30kts
Wide bank at Snapper getting a good workout (inside Greeny looking good between sets too!). These frames are all five to ten seconds apart.
Been blowing strong and relentless north / east here day and night for a few days.
I don’t know how crew here do it .
Was just watching the pass on the camera, that place should be renamed the Farce
Greeny doesn't look crowded, might hit it up.....
Doesn't look too shabby to me.
Was good a few hours before those shots, insane crowds for Coffs, car parks don't cope. That second shot is about where you need to stop the camera.
yeah Robo you nailed it....hear that Ben about the camera?
Pumping!
I witnessed a bloke towing into 3 foot close outs this morning.
I think I’ve just about seen everything ....
Well besides the strong n wind blowing and the few very crowded spots its mainly long and strong 4-5ft closeouts ........
Agreed simba chips.
You can watch cams all day long. Reality is GC is crap, some peaks here and there with a couple turns or else very crowded at snapper area which doesn't count anyway. Sand at Burleigh and Currumbin is shit balls.
Kirra?
you get some of that action IB?
Affirmatory, FR.
My work is done!
I’m just a blowin here , but it’s properly unbelievable how many crew are in town at the moment. This isn’t my first Xmas here and I’d say that it’s three times busier than I’ve ever seen the place.
Radical amounts of people. Maybe everyone is trying to escape the smoke in Sydney ? Shitloads of Vic, Qld and ACT too.
There was a lineup 15 people deep to use the fresh water showers next to the beach.
Surf is shit , ocean is too dirty to dive , wind is making most beaches unappealing, fishos can’t get out to sea.....the pub and the bottleO will be flat stick.
Everyone is smiling though . They don’t give a fuck . They’re not at work and they’re used to crowds i guess.
be glad you aren't in Byron Bay.
although me and IB have been getting heaps of fun, bizarrely uncrowded waves.
although the high tide E swell rock off this morning was positively Evil. lots of blood and fibreglass sacrificed.
Not blown out ?
Winds have been 20knots ne all night here. I woke up thinking it was pissing down but it was just the trees blowing sideways.
A little slice of Geraldton .
At least in Byron you’ve got hot girls to look at, the demographic here is full Griswold. My Rodney Dangerfield looks are right at home unfortunately.
the totty around here, esp Byron is off the fuckng hook right now.
no wonder there's no young fellas surfing.
Was very solid on a byron back beach this morning, banks looked great, went to paddle out as the chopper chased everyone out due to a big white in the lineup...
Waited 30 mins then paddled out, bit spooky, was hard to get into a wave with so much water moving around and the wind up by that point.
Got smoked big school on the inside after halfa and came in.
Cant imagine there'll be many places to surf during this swell.
Tallows is rubbish
hahahah.......I had to get up at 3am today to do a bread delivery.
all I saw was glassy surf all morning, got back to the Point just after 10am.....no hangliders= no northerlies.
surfed semi-glassy 4-5ft cyclone swell with a handful of crew with just a whisper of onshore breeze.
my wife and son surfed a secret spot as good as it gets a little ways away that was out of the brunt of the swell.
not a bad way to end 2019.
Good to hear.
Surfed 5-7.30, and it got a bit crowded, but plenty of waves.
Easy rock off at low tide was a bonus.
I’ve been back here for 11 days and haven’t seen a wave worth waxing up for.
Been riding the foamie again. It’s the surfing equivalent of maintaining a steady relationship with a fuck doll.
I thought you’d be frothing to get some of the lefts that are going round at the moment?
That's awesome Steve! And amazing. Another uncrowded surf here at midday, paddled out North Steyne, 2 others out, crowd got to maybe 5 or so around me. Chunky and great 4ft sets.
Standard protocol on the GC. As soon as Dbahs over 4ft, 90% of the crowd are out of their comfort zone and head for 2ft slow and fat snapper with 300 other blokes. Thank fk they don’t have to bottom turn. BUT HEY BRUV I SURFED SNAPPER THIS MORN’
Mate more like 99% even at 2ft have NFI or respect, simply paddle when any bump approaches, ditch the board when trying to duck drive. The chicks on the beach dig me coz I surf!
Haha! Yep!
Some serious swell in the water now.
Some solid 4-6ft sets were had on a particular SC open beach. Finally some half decent surf for the SC!
Epic morning to have gotten up for the early!
Just got home after a week and a half interstate. Hearing reports yesterday was really big on the Tweed, maxing out everywhere.
6+ at a few northern rivers spots with sweep to boot.
The waves a bit protected by bommies or headlands were much better in the 4-5 range.
Unreal. Pretty happy with forecast then.
forecast pretty bang on mate. hope you got the forecast for the 15 and 16th bang on too coz i'm booking a couple days off
huh?
nowhere near maxing out, unless your definition of a maxed out swell is 4-5ft, maybe a couple of 6footers in the mix.
I saw plenty of rideable waves on the Tweed and heaps of surfers riding them.
Just reporting what I was told, from a reliable source. Was only a snapshot of the stretch they surfed though.
I was at the north end of a NNSW beachie midday yesterday and from the top it looked about 4-5ft. Waxed up and ready to go I got down to the shore and it was easily 6ft on the big sets. Guys were out there, but it was seriously chunky. I gave it a shot but a bit above my paygrade i think and didn't take long before I got dragged back to shore.
Gunned it down to seal rocks in the hope of avoiding the northerlies to some success although admittedly it was much smaller.
Nah wasn't maxing out but wasn't very good either bit fat on the lower tide got some bombs but the bigger ones were too straight.
(shit. maybe maxing out? nah I didn't think so but I could be corrected)
I was on the Tweed doing a bread delivery and checked every spot between Kingscliff and Wooyung. Heaps of rideable surf, though not a great deal of true quality.
much bigger and better down my way.
it got scrappy in the afternoon on the low tide and 20 knots of nor-easter, but nowhere near maxed out.
If sets are pushing 6ft that's pretty close to maxing out most spots I reckon. Really doesn't hold a lot of size around here, just big wobbly wash-through peaks. Best size range is 3-4ft IMO.
Very small on noosas points today. Yesterday was much better. The onshore wind was great. It kept the crowds down but in reality it was like surfing onshore maccas.
But just in reverse!!
Onshore Maccas is still better than most waves I've ever surfed, such an amazing wave machine.
Still plenty of strong, straight lines pushing across the Surfers stretch (high tide making it pretty full and fat), winds don't look to be too much of an issue right now. Fun inside shories too.
Looks good on cam but it was dog shit
Just came in from a surf, really strong 4-5ft sets with one or two bigger bombs. Sideshore winds not affecting things too much. Super warm water, though with scattered pockets of upwelling which seemed to become more pronounced through the session.
Water on the Coffs Coast is freezing, bigger than yesterday but not as good.
Funnest it has been on the SC for a long time this morning, plenty of push in the duckdives!
Any news on the new Palmy reef and Narrowneck?
Walked across the road at 5am, paddled out with no one. Nice shoulder high left point break. First surf on the new Bonzer5. Such fun, half a dozen waves, then suddenly was joined by 20 - 25 boys from Newy. It certainly was not Happy Newy's year day after that..........went in, went to work.
Point was 4-5ft at 5am, and several beaches just south looked quite good.
Stopped at Kirra on way to airport, and it was half the size, blown out by N winds, but the water was so warm and blue and wonderful. Great little swim/bodybash.
Thank you FR and other locals for making our time here a special one. Genuinely surfed out.
Genuinely surfed out.....
Bloody hell I miss that feeling.
epic campaign you put in IB, you seem to be a lucky charm for surf.
nice to meet you mate.
My pleasure! Truly.
At home now, looking out the window at a flat Pacific. Not for long, though.
Stoked ya scored, and yeah how's all the swell that's inbound from the south. Enjoy.
Shark bite at Gallows at Coffs 7am this morning, lucky guy was sitting and not lying on his board, would of had a few teeth in lower leg, photos on dorsal app.