Great waves to continue across the points

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 28th March)

Best Days: Most days will see great waves across the points. Thurs PM and Fri for the biggest surf.

Recap: Northern NSW has seen a mix of E’ly and S’ly swells over the last two days, whilst SE Qld has seen steady E’ly swells ahead of a building NE swell today from ex-TC Iris.

Today’s Forecaster Notes are brought to you by Rip Curl

This week (Mar 29th - 30th)

No major changes to the short term forecast.

Over the coming days, we’re looking at a combination of small NE swell and a larger E’ly swell building from a series of fetches related to ex-TC Iris, which is pushing against a Tasman high and stretching out a respectable easterly fetch east from about Byron latitudes. 

Wave heights will be biggest throughout Far Northern NSW and SE Qld, with sets reaching 6ft+ at exposed locations throughout Thursday afternoon and early Friday, though it’ll be smaller running down the points. If anything, the primary E’ly fetch looks like it may be fractionally less favourably aligned towards the Sunshine Coast, so don’t be surprised if we don’t quite see maximum size across this region on Thursday. This E’ly swell will then slowly ease throughout Friday

But just to throw a spanner in the works - a small embedded low within the broader trough is modelled to form immediately west of New Caledonia on Thursday, and track westward (see chart below). A small region of E’ly gales at about Fraser Island latitudes - embedded within the pre-existing active sea state - could generate a brief secondary pulse of E/NE swell for the Sunshine Coast (and to a lesser degree the Gold Coast) at some point on Friday - more likely the afternoon than the morning. 

If this eventuates, we could very well see surf heights rebuild across SE Qld on Easter Friday (bucking the otherwise regional easing E’ly trend). It’ll be short lived but I’ve got a feeling we could see some excellent waves across the points on Friday afternoon, possibly as strong if not marginally stronger than Thursday’s offering. This brief pulse won't have anywhere near as much influence south of Byron though, due to its position and track. 

Looking across Northern NSW for the next few days, and surf size will then taper off as you head south from about Yamba, though we’re still looking at strong 4-6ft sets across the Mid North Coast as the energy reaches a peak late Thursday and early Friday. Size will pull back a fraction into Friday afternoon though still remain quite strong. 

Winds look best suited for the points across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW for the next few days, with moderate to fresh SE breezes (lighter and more S’ly early morning), tending a little more E/SE into Friday though easing a little in strength. 

However a weak pressure gradient throughout Southern NSW should influence the East Coast up to about Coffs Harbour where we’re likely to see light variable winds and sea breezes both days.

This weekend (Mar 31st - Apr 1st)

Ex-TC Iris will linger off the Capricorn Coast over the weekend, generally outside of our swell window.

However, an associated ridge stretching back into the South Pacific through the second half of this week will contribute a steady supply of E’ly swell all weekend. It’ll be down in size from Thursday and Friday, but open beaches throughout SE Qld and Far Northern NSW should see anywhere between 3ft and maybe 5ft both days (smaller running down the points), with the Mid North Coast likely to see 3-4ft surf. 

Ex-TC Iris will maintain a stronghold over SE Qld and Far Northern NSW’s winds, keeping them out of the SE or perhaps ESE both days (lighter S’ly periods likely in a few isolated regions early morning) but south from Yamba we’ll see a little less strength, and thus longer periods of light variable winds through the mornings. Moderate E'ly breezes are expected each afternoon here. 

Next week (Apr 2nd onwards)

There’s still plenty of activity on the long term charts. 

The weekend’s steady though inconsistent trade swell should continue motoring along through the first half of next week, thanks to the Northern Tasman Sea ridge holding through the weekend. This should provide 3-4ft, almost 3-5ft surf across open beaches in SE Qld and Far Northern NSW on Monday (smaller down the points), with smaller on the Mid North Coast. Wave heights will ease a fraction into Tuesday and Wednesday, and mainly light winds are expected Monday ahead of a S/SE change spreading up the coast on Tuesday, holding through Wednesday.  

Ex-TC Iris looks like it’ll remain outside of our swell window into the future. However, a new Tropical Cyclone is expected to form near Fiji over the weekend, and although it’ll track to the east, model guidance has it stalling and intensifying NE of New Zealand through the first half of next week.

This system will be mainly aimed up into the Vanuatu region, though we should see an appreciable spread of E'ly groundswell starting to show through Thursday of next week, building through Friday and holding through the weekend (though likely easing). It’s too early to pin down size estimates but occasional 3-5ft sets are a good chance at this point in time, though they’ll be very inconsistent due to the remote swell source.

Otherwise, we have a couple of nondescript fronts pushing through the lower Tasman Sea next week that’ll supply into intermittent south swell across Northern NSW’s south swell magnets. The first (later Tuesday/Wednesday) will be from a low associated with Tuesday’s S/SE change but a better, longer period S’ly swell is expected later in the week (later Thursday/Friday) and we could see 3ft+ sets from this source too. 

More on this in Friday’s update. 

Comments

NickT's picture
NickT's picture
NickT Wednesday, 28 Mar 2018 at 10:01pm

Thanks Ben as always. Man we have had a good run of swell lately. I hope everyone scores a little slice over the Easter break. If not, then check out the world
s best at Bells on what looks like a fun couple of days on Friday and Saturday

Jackmolka's picture
Jackmolka's picture
Jackmolka Wednesday, 28 Mar 2018 at 11:22pm

Yeww stoked cheers beny

Dougie710's picture
Dougie710's picture
Dougie710 Thursday, 29 Mar 2018 at 7:10am

Is it just me that thinks the quality of waves this year have been well below par. "Great waves to continue across the points?" Seriously? Check the cams at Currumbin, Burleigh and Greenmount. Hardly great waves. The banks are in the poorest shape for years imho.

tubulargreen's picture
tubulargreen's picture
tubulargreen Thursday, 29 Mar 2018 at 9:22am

Epic is very overused description for mediocre these days.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Thursday, 29 Mar 2018 at 10:24am

Not wrong. It's like size = quality to some people, even when it's onshore slop. You hear people getting excited all the time, "6ft swell coming!", yeah and howling onshores you won't be surfing. Weird.

Umunga's picture
Umunga's picture
Umunga Friday, 30 Mar 2018 at 8:56am

Totally agree, lots off swell with howling on shores, about as useful as a ash tray on a motorbike.

Dougie710's picture
Dougie710's picture
Dougie710 Saturday, 31 Mar 2018 at 10:26am

It isn't really onshores I was talking about - it is the quality of the banks at the points compared with other years...

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay Thursday, 29 Mar 2018 at 9:09am

Some advice, please.
Spending the next 10 days on the north coast, mainly chasing right points, and I can bring two boards. 6'3 Ghost will be one, but the second one is tricky: 6'2 Byrning Spears deep six, or 5'10 Pyzel Nugget. If there won't be much semi groveling, I won't need the Nugget.
Cheers

belly's picture
belly's picture
belly Thursday, 29 Mar 2018 at 11:44am

Don't know those boards exactly but get the drift, you'd be doing well to get 10 days of East coast 3/4 foot + point surf. I'd be packing your 2-4 ft beachies board as well.

Troppo's picture
Troppo's picture
Troppo Thursday, 29 Mar 2018 at 10:50am

You guys give Sunshine Coast 7/10 this morning, and your surf reporter says there's six footers at Alex. So i race down there, and its a dogs breakfast - 3 foot absolute max!

Should get bigger as the day progresses, but fair dinkum!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 29 Mar 2018 at 11:12am

You know we have a live surfcam at Alex?

Troppo's picture
Troppo's picture
Troppo Thursday, 29 Mar 2018 at 11:41am

Yes I do Ben, and it showed very ordinary surf. I tried to take a screenshot, but don't know how to post pictures up onto the screen. Can you remind me please?

My point was more that the surf report was way off - no way it was 7/10, and if it was any more than 3 feet I am surprised.

I love the work you have been doing here for years thanks mate. Your forecasts are excellent. I just reckon some of the reports could be a bit sharper.

Thanks again.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 29 Mar 2018 at 11:48am

Thanks mate. We have a few new surfcam products coming soon, one of them is a screenshot feature. Though, the Replays also work really well too.

curly2alex's picture
curly2alex's picture
curly2alex Thursday, 29 Mar 2018 at 2:44pm

And thats the problem !!

davetherave's picture
davetherave's picture
davetherave Thursday, 29 Mar 2018 at 1:04pm

any surf is better than no surf. any surfing is better than no surfing. happy easter.

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Thursday, 29 Mar 2018 at 4:06pm

Yeah not great up at noosa either, weak 2-3ft. 2-4 way out but very poor waves for surfing

B.B.Blitz's picture
B.B.Blitz's picture
B.B.Blitz Thursday, 29 Mar 2018 at 7:31pm

Hasn't been lining up well at all this year, no punch.The surf forecasts seem to whip everyone into a frenzy , been a big let down this year so far.Can only get better!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 29 Mar 2018 at 7:50pm

Been very gurgled out down here too.

mozzie's picture
mozzie's picture
mozzie Thursday, 29 Mar 2018 at 11:36pm

Mid north coast been bang on thanks Ben & Craig

benjis babe's picture
benjis babe's picture
benjis babe Friday, 30 Mar 2018 at 7:58am

yes this year has been shit, howling onshores or small crowded noosa. march - april is normally epic on the sunny coast, easterly swells and light winds, whats happened huey!!
ive hardly had any surf so its like I'm doing no surfing, and when we get a nice swell its low tide all day and shit banks. I pretty much laugh at all the surf forecast these days, what else can I do, theres no where to surf

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Friday, 30 Mar 2018 at 6:42pm

Looks like the jetski hero's have discovered a new wave, Tea tree at 2-4 ft. Who would have thunk it.....

truebluebasher's picture
truebluebasher's picture
truebluebasher Friday, 30 Mar 2018 at 10:24pm

Good Friday... GCCC Talle'Creek-River'upgrade chalked up 'Rescue 101' (See 7 news)
SS Royal Neptune 007 ramped the 'Tinnie Midden'...walked it back to club around the track.

Cyclones breaking up GCCC Cape Burleigh. Too good to be true/ Burleigh Point back again.
Huey is bashin' GCCC botox beach resurrecting sizable Burleigh backwash barrels.
Swell crosses in fast,heaviest on high add backwash to ramp the face...(Golden nest eggs!)
Long lost basher 'hoys ... "Thought you were dead!" Xmas beetles are back! SLAM #

Oh yeah! 1001 boardriders joined in 20m Flagged Easter Egg hunt.(Basherz upheld peace)

truebluebasher's picture
truebluebasher's picture
truebluebasher Sunday, 1 Apr 2018 at 1:48pm

Just so you know the whole world reads thermalben's forecasts.
...The next day a record amount of Basherz bashed the Basherz then the boogerz barged in!
Easter Sunday burley basherz went to womp the comp @ Fingal.
Mainly 'cause Burley is shit...Tip! Save your time... you're better off surfing everyplace else.