Quality extended forecast for Queensland surfers

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Monday 26th March)

Best Days: Most days should have great waves, with solid building swells from Wednesday afternoon onwards. Great for the points through the second half of the week. Excellent long term outlook too.

Recap: Plenty of fun waves all weekend with a combo of easing and building E’ly swells offering 3-5ft waves across most beaches Saturday, easing slightly into Sunday, and remaining generally clean with favourable winds. Size eased to between 3ft and 3-4ft this morning and conditions were again smooth under a light breeze.

Today’s Forecaster Notes are brought to you by Rip Curl

Next week (Mar 27th - 30th)

It’s a fantastic looking short, medium and long term synoptic chart, with the Coral Sea and South Pacific expected to remain very active.

Before we get there, we have a couple of small south swells to push up Northern NSW - the first into the Mid North Coast Tuesday afternoon, with the second swell reaching most of Northern NSW into Wednesday. Only south swell magnets will see any size (very inconsistent 2-3ft sets); other beaches not facing south won't see much size from these sources (front exiting eastern Bass Strait, associated low just SE of Tasmania).

At the same time, we have a complex scenario developing in the Coral Sea.

Over the weekend, Tropical Cyclone Iris formed near the Solomon Islands though it’s already been downgraded to a Tropical Low. However, it looks pretty good on paper, with a reasonable NE fetch on its south-eastern flank, aimed into SE Qld. A small NE swell from this region should build slowly through Tuesday, reaching 2-3ft across exposed beaches on the Sunshine and Gold Coasts through the afternoon (expect a period of smaller surf early morning), and then holding into Wednesday

However, Tuesday afternoon will also see Ex-Tropical Cyclone Iris pushing south and broadening an associated trough in the Coral Sea against a Tasman high. This will strengthen an E’ly fetch in SE Qld’s immediate swell window, which will give rise to a building E’ly swell throughout Wednesday, and fortunately this system will remain stationary for a few days, resulting in an extended period of E’ly swell for our region. 

Even better, Ex-Tropical Cyclone Iris (in fact, we may see an upgrade back to TC status by this time) is expected to remain a reasonable distance off the coast which means moderate to fresh SE winds throughout Far Northern NSW and SE Qld, with mainly light and variable winds south from Yamba. This will favour excellent conditions across the points, though they will be smaller in size than the outer points and open beaches. 

Wave heights will build strongly through Wednesday, peaking Thursday morning around 5-6ft+ across exposed regions of SE Qld and Far Northern NSW, with smaller 4-6ft surf extending down to the Mid North Coast. Wave heights will probably ease a touch but level out around 4-5ft throughout northern regions into Friday, with 3-5ft surf across the Mid North Coast.

So, it’s looking to be a pretty good second half of the week.

This weekend (Mat 31st - Apr 1st)

Looks like a slowly easing mix of easterly swells for the weekend, initially originating from Ex-Tropical Cyclone Iris though a broad fetch stretching back through the South Pacific should also supply a minor undercurrent of energy.

Ex-Tropical Cyclone Iris is expected to linger off the Capricorn coast throughout this period and we may also see some small NE swell from its eastern flank. Though, it’s early days yet. 

There's some suggestion for a coastal trough to develop parallel to the East Coast into Saturday which could bring about a rise in short range NE swell Sunday and (more so) Monday, but confidence is low on this scenario right now. 

As for size, SE Qld and Far Northern NSW should see 3-5ft surf early Saturday, easing to 3-4ft by the afternoon and holding around this size range into Sunday. Expect a foot or so smaller across the Mid North Coast. 

Conditions should remain quite good with mainly light to moderate winds, variable for periods in the mornings

Next week (Apr 2nd onwards)

Plenty to look forward too next week, with a strong period of tropical activity in the Coral Sea and South Pacific, including another likely Tropical Cyclone between Fiji and New Caledonia. This should generate an extended period of E'ly swell across the entire East Coast next week and into the following weekend, with a couple of solid days in the mix. More on this in Wednesday’s update.

Comments

Byrnesy1's picture
Byrnesy1's picture
Byrnesy1 Monday, 26 Mar 2018 at 7:13pm

HI Ben, Surfed the Alley friday saturday and sunday at first light. All three days were lumpy as. I expected this on friday due to such a low period but i expected that by Sunday as the winds droped and the period bumped up to 10 seconds for it to sort itself out. Yet even with still conditions it was lumpy and like a washing mashine out there. Was like it was a 6 second swell. or maybe 2 swells out of sync. Yet the charts didn't show any secondary short period swell. Can you explain the junkyness of the swell? I also checked other spots and they all looked junky. Thanks Steve

bananaman's picture
bananaman's picture
bananaman Monday, 26 Mar 2018 at 9:56pm

Total junk down Byron Ballina stretch too mate

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 27 Mar 2018 at 3:10pm

Because there were a few swell trains out of the same direction, the model may have not been resolving them individually. That’s the problem when you’ve got a peaky short range swell overlapping a long range groundswell.. it delineates the lines at point breaks (though that can be a positive, if you’re surfing beachbreaks). I wasn’t around on the weekend so didn’t surf the swell personally, but next time you see this happen please post your observations in real-time so I can assess the model data against buoy obs etc.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Monday, 26 Mar 2018 at 8:03pm

Even better... SE winds. Eh? For all two packed points in QLD.

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Monday, 26 Mar 2018 at 9:51pm

Sounds alright to me?...after 4 weeks at work I'll be happy wit a 4 ft swell no matter where or how its shaping up

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Tuesday, 27 Mar 2018 at 3:11pm

Big GFS upgrade for the NE groundswell from Iris. She must have tracked favourably overnight. Unless it's just the models combining swell trains which I haven't looked into in detail.

EDIT: Actually Ben/Craig it appears to be just your model output as an outlier compared to other WW3 model outputs.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 27 Mar 2018 at 4:10pm

Been a pretty weird start to autumn. Not an offshore morning in sight, just relentless onshore and plenty of swell. Wobbly, ratty surf away from he protected points.
Just a continuation of summer.

With an extended stanza of tropical developments ahead looks like the start of autumn, at least climatologically is a ways off.

tomjoad's picture
tomjoad's picture
tomjoad Tuesday, 27 Mar 2018 at 4:19pm

Hey Ben - just a weird quirk, FYI. Sometimes the order of navigation on the swellnet website throws up weird errors. I'm getting it now, if you try to navigate from the 'notes' page to the 'forecast page', it gives the following :

"Search is temporarily unavailable. If the problem persists, please contact the site administrator. The page you requested does not exist. For your convenience, a search was performed using the query node forecast."

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Tuesday, 27 Mar 2018 at 4:43pm

I'm gonna guess that is because the notes are for a region whereas the forecast page is a particular spot. How would the notes know which spot you want? Whereas if you go from the forecast to the notes, well the forecast is within a region so no problem.