Mainly small swells to continue across northern regions

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 25th January)

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Best Days: No great days due to mainly small swells. Thurs/Fri have the most potential in Northern NSW with a small series of southerly swells. Next week has a trade swell on the cards for SE Qld though local winds look dicey.

Recap: A small trade swell built across SE Qld yesterday and today though came in just under size expectations. The Sunshine Coast managed 2ft sets whilst the Gold and Tweed Coasts struggled with slow, weak 1-2ft waves. Very little was reported south of Byron. Freshening northerly winds on Tuesday gave way to early offshore breezes across SE Qld today, though some parts of the Far Northern NSW coast didn’t experience such joy with the Cape Byron weather station recording northerlies straight through the night and into this morning. A series of small long range S’ly swells also came in at the bottom end of forecast expectations; closer to 2ft than 2ft+ and very inconsistent across Northern NSW south swell magnets. However conditions have been a little better across the Mid North Coast than further north, owing to mainly light variable winds.


Peaky two footers at Sunshine Beach this afternoon


Still some two foot sets from the south in Coffs Harbour


Not much surf at Cabarita on the Tweed Coast, via our new surfcam (click here)

This week (Jan 26th - 27th)

Small swells will pad out the rest of the working week. Though conditions should be workable with mainly light variable winds. 

A small S’ly groundswell will push across Northern NSW on Thursday, reaching a peak across the Mid North Coast late afternoon and probably the Far North Coast on Friday morning

This energy will have originated from the parent low to yesterday’s change, which tracked below Tasmania on Tuesday. The fetch around the low wasn’t ideally positioned but it was very strong and we’ll see a small degree of energy glance the coast during the day. Reliable south swell magnets south of Byron should pick up inconsistent 2-3ft+ sets but most other beaches will be much smaller. 

Although the models are showing a northerly airstream for both days, wind speeds should remain light so conditions should be OK. 

Across SE Qld, we may see some small lingering trade swell across the Sunshine Coast on Thursday morning it’ll ease after that and become tiny. Not much size is expected elsewhere so you’ll have to be pretty keen for a wave north of the border over the next few days. Even south swell magnets will struggle to pick up much size from the expected small new S’ly swell (due across this region by Friday morning) so keep your expectations low to finish the week.

This weekend (Jan 28th - 29th)

A minor strengthening of the trades south of new Caledonia late Friday may generate a small pulse of trade swell for SE Qld later Saturday and into Sunday but no major size is expected.

Elsewhere, we’re really not expecting a lot of surf, with mainly small weak leftover energy from the south at best. 

Winds are expected to be light and variable tending moderate E/NE across SE Qld, with freshening N/NE winds across the the Mid North Coast that could become gusty into Sunday afternoon.

All in all, it’s probably a weekend better spent doing other things away from the coast.

Next week (Jan 30th onwards)

The trades will freshen across the Northern Tasman Sea early next week, and this is expected to build trade swells across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW.

The models have pegged back the fetch a little since Monday’s outlook but I’m still hopeful for the Sunshine Coast to reach 3-4ft, with 3ft surf on the Gold and Tweed Coasts and 2-3ft surf across remaining Northern NSW coasts. Size should build from Monday toward a peak around Wednesday or Thursday

However, the trade flow is expected to remain quite some distance away for the mainland which allows the chance for northerlies to develop across the coastal margin. So for now, keep your expectations low for next week’s swell. 

Let’s hope Friday’s updated forecast notes have some better news!

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 25 Jan 2017 at 6:08pm

Some more pics from Sunshine Beach and Gallows, showing the small E'ly and S'ly swells in the water.


waxyfeet's picture
waxyfeet's picture
waxyfeet Wednesday, 25 Jan 2017 at 6:11pm

"So for now, keep your expectations low for next week’s swell. "

Don't worry Ben, expectations have recalibrated themselves over the last 6 months to perma "FML, i'll surf wtfever I can get"

Umunga's picture
Umunga's picture
Umunga Wednesday, 25 Jan 2017 at 6:49pm

SC does ok with a light northerly flow especially if there's a dash of west in it early mornings

Rockhopper's picture
Rockhopper's picture
Rockhopper Wednesday, 25 Jan 2017 at 8:19pm

Guys I'm new to this forum but have been silently observing and surfing for a descent amount of time and have a quick question to ask you vets. Seeing as these south swells have been all we have been really getting of late I have been wiring the minimum swell angle in degrees to get some of my locals working - however how much does period effect this map I have been developing of late. How much will a longer period influence these south swells ability to "wrap"? Ie if 120 degrees gets my spot working at 8 seconds will a 14 second period change this much at all?

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 25 Jan 2017 at 8:22pm

in a word, yes, but as to how.....that is different for every single combination of variables.

Rockhopper's picture
Rockhopper's picture
Rockhopper Wednesday, 25 Jan 2017 at 8:39pm

Great thanks freeride.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 25 Jan 2017 at 8:49pm

sorry, I know that wasn't very informative. Long period swells travel faster and deeper through the water column. They feel the bottom in deeper water and this can lead to all kinds of refractive and shoaling effects which effect the swell energy reaching any given spot.

thats all general information you probably know.

Halfscousehalfcockneyfullaussie's picture
Halfscousehalfcockneyfullaussie's picture
Halfscousehalfc... Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 6:39am

things are looking up, bom says mjo should return in early feb

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 6:48am

But with no strength, and longer term forecasts have it moving on quickly again.

Carn, give us some trade-swell!!

Halfscousehalfcockneyfullaussie's picture
Halfscousehalfcockneyfullaussie's picture
Halfscousehalfc... Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 6:50am

Geez, I thought I was all over the mjo since you educated me Craig

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 6:53am

Haha, it's all good to have it in the region, but if it has no strength, then no bueno.

A little refresher..https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet-dispatch/2012/03/15/cyclone-prospects-warming

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 7:02am

I can't see any end in sight to this pattern of weak mobile sub-tropical high pressure , troughiness and slack pressure gradients in our eastern swell window.

Can't remember a similar year when there has been such a dearth of revolving tropical low pressure in the Coral Sea and South Pac.

To be honest, at this stage I can live with no/small surf as long as these northerlies fuck off.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 7:08am

It's quite a different summer. The mid-latitude storm belt hasn't been strong but it has been persistent delivering endless days of small swell on the fickle SA Mid Coast.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 7:11am

it's just a continuation of spring with the negative SAM allowing a more northward track for the westerly storm belt.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 7:19am

Yeah totally but this seems unusual for the summer months.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 8:03am

Looks like the new S'ly swell for Northern NSW today is slightly ahead of schedule, looks a fun 2-3ft at south facing beaches south of Byron this morning. 

crg's picture
crg's picture
crg Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 1:40pm

No sign of 2-3ft south here...more like 1ft NE windswell. And got a little cruise by from a cranky old whaler shark. Definitely not worth it this morning!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 1:50pm

Exposed northern ends on the Tweed were 2ft+ before the tide kicked it in the guts. Super fun waves, nice and peaky and clean with a light NNW breeze.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 1:52pm

Must admit though, my mates checked half a kay down the beach and it was hardly breaking. Not much happening on the Caba cam either.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 2:45pm

2-3ft is a pretty big overall. Maybe the very odd 2 footer at ballina, close to dead flat mostly elsewhere. Tallows was a very weak 1-2ft with a very occasional bigger one.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 5:17pm

Easy shoulder, almost head high here Steve. Perhaps this swell missed your neck of the woods but the Coffs cam has been showing solid 3ft sets.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 5:23pm

Actually, these snaps off the RMS cam at Lighthouse beach were taken around 8am. Looks about 2-3ft to me.


linez's picture
linez's picture
linez Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 5:29pm

Excuse my ignorance Ben, but what is the RMS cam?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 6:11pm
linez's picture
linez's picture
linez Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 6:19pm

Thanks

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 8:06pm

I was on the rocks pre-dawn and it was very, very tiny, just a little leftover signal from the E.
Then I grabbed a coffee and did a drive-by of all the Ballina surf spots. 1-2ft tops with North Wall having the very odd 2-3footer but very incon and very weak.

Drove to the Goldy for work then got back to Byron at about 10am. Went to Tallows.

Pretty ordinary photo but you can see how weak it is. And no white water at Cosy Corner which tells you how little S swell there was. People would be sitting up in the corner if there was S or SSE in the swell. I had a quick bodybash. 1-2ft. Maybe one wave in the 2ft+ range. Very weak.

Drove back to the Goldy. Got back to Byron around 4pm and went and rockfished one of the most exposed ledges on the east coast. A spot you can normally only fish a handful of days a year when it's very small. I could have taken my grandma, bless her dearly departed soul out there. It's a ledge at sea level that protrudes into the ocean, literally nowhere to hide from any swell.

I'd call the surf a weak 1-2ft with ultimate swell magnets in the 2ft+ range on the very occasional sets.

kaiser's picture
kaiser's picture
kaiser Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 8:29pm

So rarely fished... Surely you caught sumthin?

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 8:46pm

yeah, stacks of bigeye trevally, caught a dozen or so of them and released.
Caught and kept three fat tailor.
Lost something much bigger....maybe a bigger trev, jew?

kaiser's picture
kaiser's picture
kaiser Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 8:53pm

Nice work. There's your
Silver lining.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Thursday, 26 Jan 2017 at 10:25pm

possible east swell starting to develop around 1st feb.... Start off as a meandering piss ant trade swell.... By the 3rd of 4th, there's a chance of a tropical system out east.... Cross your fingers up there lol

the chase's picture
the chase's picture
the chase Friday, 27 Jan 2017 at 1:00pm

Hey sd no time for jokes. We have a real serious matter on our hands up here the waves have disappeared for months now.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 27 Jan 2017 at 8:58am

Agree SD.....see what the wind speeds are like, but it's the best looking tradewind flow set-up we've seen for a long time.

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay Friday, 27 Jan 2017 at 1:07pm

So I take it Lennox hasn't broken for ages. What's the water temp now?