Mainly small swells to continue across northern regions
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 25th January)
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Best Days: No great days due to mainly small swells. Thurs/Fri have the most potential in Northern NSW with a small series of southerly swells. Next week has a trade swell on the cards for SE Qld though local winds look dicey.
Recap: A small trade swell built across SE Qld yesterday and today though came in just under size expectations. The Sunshine Coast managed 2ft sets whilst the Gold and Tweed Coasts struggled with slow, weak 1-2ft waves. Very little was reported south of Byron. Freshening northerly winds on Tuesday gave way to early offshore breezes across SE Qld today, though some parts of the Far Northern NSW coast didn’t experience such joy with the Cape Byron weather station recording northerlies straight through the night and into this morning. A series of small long range S’ly swells also came in at the bottom end of forecast expectations; closer to 2ft than 2ft+ and very inconsistent across Northern NSW south swell magnets. However conditions have been a little better across the Mid North Coast than further north, owing to mainly light variable winds.
Peaky two footers at Sunshine Beach this afternoon
Still some two foot sets from the south in Coffs Harbour
Not much surf at Cabarita on the Tweed Coast, via our new surfcam (click here)
This week (Jan 26th - 27th)
Small swells will pad out the rest of the working week. Though conditions should be workable with mainly light variable winds.
A small S’ly groundswell will push across Northern NSW on Thursday, reaching a peak across the Mid North Coast late afternoon and probably the Far North Coast on Friday morning.
This energy will have originated from the parent low to yesterday’s change, which tracked below Tasmania on Tuesday. The fetch around the low wasn’t ideally positioned but it was very strong and we’ll see a small degree of energy glance the coast during the day. Reliable south swell magnets south of Byron should pick up inconsistent 2-3ft+ sets but most other beaches will be much smaller.
Although the models are showing a northerly airstream for both days, wind speeds should remain light so conditions should be OK.
Across SE Qld, we may see some small lingering trade swell across the Sunshine Coast on Thursday morning it’ll ease after that and become tiny. Not much size is expected elsewhere so you’ll have to be pretty keen for a wave north of the border over the next few days. Even south swell magnets will struggle to pick up much size from the expected small new S’ly swell (due across this region by Friday morning) so keep your expectations low to finish the week.
This weekend (Jan 28th - 29th)
A minor strengthening of the trades south of new Caledonia late Friday may generate a small pulse of trade swell for SE Qld later Saturday and into Sunday but no major size is expected.
Elsewhere, we’re really not expecting a lot of surf, with mainly small weak leftover energy from the south at best.
Winds are expected to be light and variable tending moderate E/NE across SE Qld, with freshening N/NE winds across the the Mid North Coast that could become gusty into Sunday afternoon.
All in all, it’s probably a weekend better spent doing other things away from the coast.
Next week (Jan 30th onwards)
The trades will freshen across the Northern Tasman Sea early next week, and this is expected to build trade swells across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW.
The models have pegged back the fetch a little since Monday’s outlook but I’m still hopeful for the Sunshine Coast to reach 3-4ft, with 3ft surf on the Gold and Tweed Coasts and 2-3ft surf across remaining Northern NSW coasts. Size should build from Monday toward a peak around Wednesday or Thursday.
However, the trade flow is expected to remain quite some distance away for the mainland which allows the chance for northerlies to develop across the coastal margin. So for now, keep your expectations low for next week’s swell.
Let’s hope Friday’s updated forecast notes have some better news!
Comments
Some more pics from Sunshine Beach and Gallows, showing the small E'ly and S'ly swells in the water.
"So for now, keep your expectations low for next week’s swell. "
Don't worry Ben, expectations have recalibrated themselves over the last 6 months to perma "FML, i'll surf wtfever I can get"
SC does ok with a light northerly flow especially if there's a dash of west in it early mornings
Guys I'm new to this forum but have been silently observing and surfing for a descent amount of time and have a quick question to ask you vets. Seeing as these south swells have been all we have been really getting of late I have been wiring the minimum swell angle in degrees to get some of my locals working - however how much does period effect this map I have been developing of late. How much will a longer period influence these south swells ability to "wrap"? Ie if 120 degrees gets my spot working at 8 seconds will a 14 second period change this much at all?
in a word, yes, but as to how.....that is different for every single combination of variables.
Great thanks freeride.
sorry, I know that wasn't very informative. Long period swells travel faster and deeper through the water column. They feel the bottom in deeper water and this can lead to all kinds of refractive and shoaling effects which effect the swell energy reaching any given spot.
thats all general information you probably know.
things are looking up, bom says mjo should return in early feb
But with no strength, and longer term forecasts have it moving on quickly again.
Carn, give us some trade-swell!!
Geez, I thought I was all over the mjo since you educated me Craig
Haha, it's all good to have it in the region, but if it has no strength, then no bueno.
A little refresher..https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet-dispatch/2012/03/15/cyclone-prospects-warming
I can't see any end in sight to this pattern of weak mobile sub-tropical high pressure , troughiness and slack pressure gradients in our eastern swell window.
Can't remember a similar year when there has been such a dearth of revolving tropical low pressure in the Coral Sea and South Pac.
To be honest, at this stage I can live with no/small surf as long as these northerlies fuck off.
It's quite a different summer. The mid-latitude storm belt hasn't been strong but it has been persistent delivering endless days of small swell on the fickle SA Mid Coast.
it's just a continuation of spring with the negative SAM allowing a more northward track for the westerly storm belt.
Yeah totally but this seems unusual for the summer months.
Looks like the new S'ly swell for Northern NSW today is slightly ahead of schedule, looks a fun 2-3ft at south facing beaches south of Byron this morning.
No sign of 2-3ft south here...more like 1ft NE windswell. And got a little cruise by from a cranky old whaler shark. Definitely not worth it this morning!
Exposed northern ends on the Tweed were 2ft+ before the tide kicked it in the guts. Super fun waves, nice and peaky and clean with a light NNW breeze.
Must admit though, my mates checked half a kay down the beach and it was hardly breaking. Not much happening on the Caba cam either.
2-3ft is a pretty big overall. Maybe the very odd 2 footer at ballina, close to dead flat mostly elsewhere. Tallows was a very weak 1-2ft with a very occasional bigger one.
Easy shoulder, almost head high here Steve. Perhaps this swell missed your neck of the woods but the Coffs cam has been showing solid 3ft sets.
Actually, these snaps off the RMS cam at Lighthouse beach were taken around 8am. Looks about 2-3ft to me.
Excuse my ignorance Ben, but what is the RMS cam?
Roads And Maritime.
http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/maritime/using-waterways/web-cameras/ballina.html
Thanks
I was on the rocks pre-dawn and it was very, very tiny, just a little leftover signal from the E.
Then I grabbed a coffee and did a drive-by of all the Ballina surf spots. 1-2ft tops with North Wall having the very odd 2-3footer but very incon and very weak.
Drove to the Goldy for work then got back to Byron at about 10am. Went to Tallows.
Pretty ordinary photo but you can see how weak it is. And no white water at Cosy Corner which tells you how little S swell there was. People would be sitting up in the corner if there was S or SSE in the swell. I had a quick bodybash. 1-2ft. Maybe one wave in the 2ft+ range. Very weak.
Drove back to the Goldy. Got back to Byron around 4pm and went and rockfished one of the most exposed ledges on the east coast. A spot you can normally only fish a handful of days a year when it's very small. I could have taken my grandma, bless her dearly departed soul out there. It's a ledge at sea level that protrudes into the ocean, literally nowhere to hide from any swell.
I'd call the surf a weak 1-2ft with ultimate swell magnets in the 2ft+ range on the very occasional sets.
So rarely fished... Surely you caught sumthin?
yeah, stacks of bigeye trevally, caught a dozen or so of them and released.
Caught and kept three fat tailor.
Lost something much bigger....maybe a bigger trev, jew?
Nice work. There's your
Silver lining.
possible east swell starting to develop around 1st feb.... Start off as a meandering piss ant trade swell.... By the 3rd of 4th, there's a chance of a tropical system out east.... Cross your fingers up there lol
Hey sd no time for jokes. We have a real serious matter on our hands up here the waves have disappeared for months now.
Agree SD.....see what the wind speeds are like, but it's the best looking tradewind flow set-up we've seen for a long time.
So I take it Lennox hasn't broken for ages. What's the water temp now?