Fun weekend across Northern NSW; continuing tiny conditions for SE Qld
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 23rd September)
Best Days: Sat/Sun: easing S'ly swell with a reinforcing E/SE swell, plus good winds in general. Mon: fresh S'ly swell with mainly good winds. Tues PM/Wed: small E/SE swell.
Recap: Small surf prevailed throughout much of Thursday, however Friday morning saw a minor increase in E/SE swell from a New Zealand-based swell source, ahead of a larger southerly groundswell pushing across the Mid North Coast into the afternoon. The leading edge of this south swell is now starting to show across Yamba (see below), however beaches open to the south - picking up the most swell - are bumpy with moderate onshore winds. The small E/SE swell is however producing small, very inconsistent waves across exposed locations in SE Qld, as per our surfcam grab from Moffats this afternoon.
Late southerly lines at Yamba, from our new surfcam
Small E/SE swell lines across the Sunshine Coast, from our Moffats surfcam
This weekend (Saturday 24th - Sunday 25th)
Looks like a pretty good weekend of waves for Northern NSW.
But once again, SE Qld will dip out in the surf department.
Today’s minor E/SE swell will ease into Saturday, and the building south swell will be the dominant energy in the water. We’re looking at a peak in size overnight tonight - for scale, Southern NSW saw some chunky 6ft sets today - but the strongest winds within the responsible fetch were located inside the swell shadow of the Hunter curve. So I’m pegging my size expectations a little lower for Northern NSW, and with an easing trend expected throughout the day you’ll have to aim for an early surf for the most size (wave heights will retain their size for longer in the Far North than the Mid North).
Fortunately, the low responsible for this swell is easing and tracking eastwards away from the coast, which means Saturday is looking at mainly light offshore winds in the morning and sea breezes in the afternoon. There may be a lingering sou’wester across the Lower Mid North Coast at first but I think it’ll clear quickly into the Tasman.
As for size, early morning should show 4-5ft sets at south facing beaches, easing steadily during the day (earlier in the south than in the north).
Wave heights will be smaller at beaches not open to the south, including the Tweed Coast, and apart from well exposed south swell magnets across SE Qld - which may pick up a few stray 2ft+ sets - I’m not expecting much in the way of rideable action across most Gold and Sunshine Coast beaches. If you’re very patient the outer points may have a few rogue 1-1.5ft runners but in general you’ll be best off packing the car for a road trip south of the border.
Sunday is looking at much smaller as the south swell quickly dries up quickly overnight on Saturday. We may see a small degree of mid-range SE swell in the mix, originating from a modest fetch developing around the southern flank of the Tasman Low tonight, but this will be best aimed into Southern NSW. South facing beaches south of Ballina could see early 2ft+ sets but it’ll ease steadily during the day and wave heights will be much smaller elsewhere.
Don’t expect much, if anything across SE Qld.
Sunday’s winds look a little complex with a weak trough pushing across the coastal margin ahead of an approaching southerly change across Southern NSW. This should result in some form of westerly breeze though NW winds are likely north of Yamba in the morning. Sea breezes are possible into the afternoon.
Next week (Monday 26th onwards)
First up: today’s Tasman Low is expected to track slowly across New Zealand longitudes over the coming days, and will probably leave a trailing E’ly fetch existing western Cook Strait (the body of water separating New Zealand’s North and South Islands) over the weekend.
The fetch doesn’t look very large but wind speeds are expected to become quite strong so we could see a small E’ly swell mid-week across Northern NSW from this source (later Tues/Wed) in the 2ft range. The orientation of this fetch may not favour SE Qld so I’m not expecting much size north of the border.
Otherwise, Sunday’s overnight S’ly change will depart quickly to the east on Monday morning, probably leaving us in easing SW tending W’ly winds across most coasts. The fetch tracking up along the Southern NSW Coast in the lee of the change looks reasonable; we should see south facing beaches build to around 3ft+ during the day, though it’ll be smaller elsewhere (and the early morning may see a lag in size, especially across the Far North Coast). There is also potential for a minor upgrade in projected surf size from this fetch; I’ll update in the comments below over the weekend.
This swell will ease quickly throughout Tuesday with winds remaining generally favourable.
Looking further ahead, and a late S’ly change later Tuesday may generate a small south swell for Northern NSW later Wednesday but nothing of any substance is expected.
The long range outlook for the end of the week and next weekend has a powerful front and low approaching Vic/SA later Wednesday and into Thursday.
Strengthening northerly winds into Thursday may generate some short range windswell for exposed north-facing coasts, but of much more interest is how this broader system will evolve as it tracks across south-eastern Australia. The latest model guidance suggests the parent low will probably reach maturity west of the Tasmanian divide, which means reduced swell prospects in our swell window - but we can’t rule out a reintensification once it tracks into the Tasman Sea either.
It’s certainly a weather system to watch closely in the updated model runs because either way it’s going to create a period of very windy conditions for the SE corner of the country. Let’s just hope those gales are aimed favourably within our swell window.
Have a great weekend, see you Monday!
Comments
Been a little bit of sand movement over the last week or so, will be interesting to see how the weekend plays out.
Hope all the Queenslanders venturing over the border are aware the the local conditions!
For those not familiar:
This one on Wedensday: https://www.facebook.com/dorsalaus/photos/a.770352673087918.1073741829.7...
Then, this one yesterday: https://www.facebook.com/dorsalaus/photos/a.770352673087918.1073741829.7...
Then, these today:
https://www.facebook.com/dorsalaus/photos/a.770352673087918.1073741829.7...
and
https://www.facebook.com/dorsalaus/photos/a.770352673087918.1073741829.7...
From the observations of the car loads hunting around this morning, it seems many are not aware of the increase in activity here lately.
Issue well raised WN
BTW was this your observation? :-)
Must be a few good banks around, eh wingy? ;)
Hey Ben. In response to your comment about the sand movement above, I can officially confirm that the sand officially is fucked here on the tweed. That being said, there were some fun ones this morning on the low tide, super clean but slow as my mother in law hobbling across the road with her stroller. Good to see some swell. Yeeeew
Yeah I know what you mean DK, though on various parts of the tide there are a few sly options. I had a quick paddle around mid-morning, ended up surfing a fast lil' shorey as the outside bank was fat and inconsistent. Probably wouldn't have broken on the high tide, even though sets were an easy 3ft.
I reckon I saw some 4 ft sets but quite fat. lower tide was better . Had stuff to do around the house so couldn't get away for the high tide. I was pretty rooted anyway after a 3 hour surf. was good to get early before the crowds. Didn't really get that crowded tho considering all the factors ie school holidays, glassy , the most solid surf there's been for a while etc
Ordinary down here...completely wrong tide for the early before the wind
Hey Ben, cruising up the coast tomorrow from lower Mid nth coast! t,day saw 3ft South swell with good conditions till mid day when an east sou easter blew it off! Goin to Runaway bay to visit for several days, should I bring the Mini Mal as well as my short board ? Looks like I'm leaving the swell behind me!
Yes mate I'd bring something with a lot of volume in it. Gonna be pretty small north of the border.
Still a few fun waves across the Coffs Coast this morning.. bloke in second image for size reference (first image looks a little bigger).
Has dropped off a lot since this AM @ Gallows. Tomorrows fetch still on track? Cheers ben
Yeah south swell building across Southern NSW this morning, with 3-4ft sets. No major sign of it yet across the Mid North Coast, but Coffs is showing 2ft sets. Should kick in later today though may not arrive in the Far North until overnight.
Such nice weather such a shame there is nothing to surf.
Yep, it's SUP weather. BUT ... I have from two "mates" unconfirmed reports that a bloke on a SUP paddling along off the beach along the Salt / Casuarina stretch was bumped off by a "fucking big shark" ...
Hmmm.
Last year when everyone was a bit psyched out by the sharks, I noticed a big increase in SUPpers, particularly young blokes. Had gone back to normal this year.
I reckon it'll happen again though now.
Any instances of a SUPper ever been bumped in to the water and followed up by attacking?
No surf but perfect weather for watching the whales cruise by. There's been HEAPS the last few days.
Yep, stacks of whales on the Tweed too. They're a boisterous bunch, too.
Anyone out with the whale off Moffs yesterday morning? Whole bunch of people paddled out on sups, surf skis and a jet ski or two. They looked maybe a bit too close, compared to what you're allowed to be, but the whale was flapping its pec fin like mad. Looked like it might have been in distress. Wasn't sure if it was hooked up in a net or just slapping the water to tell everyone to piss off.