Forget the weekend; next week looks fun for SE Qld

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 11th August)

Best Days: Mon: chance for a fun south swell across the Mid North Coast, but local winds could spoil the party (they certainly will to the north). Tues/Wed/Thurs/Fri: fun trade swell, best suited to SE Qld, specifically the southern Gold Coast points. 

Recap: Thursday saw tiny conditions across much of the region, just a foot of weak leftover swell at exposed beaches. Today started off small but a minor SE swell pushed up across Northern NSW during the day, and a secondary S’ly groundswell that is now peaking across Southern NSW (with occ 2-3ft sets) is now nosing into the Mid North Coast, and will probably peak overnight across Northern NSW. We’re seeing 2-3ft sets from the SE swell across Northern NSW right now, and 1-2ft waves at swell magnets on the Gold Coast, with tiny surf at the Sunshine Coast (though there are little lines appearing, as per the surfcam grab from Moffats a little while ago). Yesterday’s northerlies have given way to mainly SW tending S’ly winds across Northern NSW and SE Qld.


Small but clean lines at Moffats for the longboards and street sweepers 

This weekend (Sat 13th - Sun 14th August)

Unfortunately the outlook for waves this weekend remains grim.

Today’s SE swell and the small pulse of S’ly swell advancing along the coast are both expected to ease back through Saturday morning. Conditions are expected to be clean with light winds (ahead of an afternoon sea breeze) but SE Qld will remain tiny, with only south facing beaches in Northern NSW - specifically, south of Byron Bay down to about Coffs - picking up stray 2ft sets of leftover swell early morning, before it slowly eases throughout the day

Elsewhere, surf conditions will remain very small at best. 

On Sunday, a ridge is expected to slowly develop across the Coral Sea and it’ll eventually influence the coastal margin from SE Qld down to Southern NSW thanks to a front pushing into the lower Tasman Sea. This will swing the winds around to the southern quadrant and freshen, though this may not happen until the afternoon. Prior to this we’re looking at early light W/SW winds in most areas. 

Unfortunately, there are no new swells expected during this time so you’ll have to sniff around the exposed south swell magnets south of Byron for scraps of energy. Across SE Qld it’s expected to remain very small indeed.

Next week (Mon 15th August onwards)

A strong front pushing underneath Tasmania overnight Saturday and into Sunday morning is expected to generate a couple of pulses of south swell for early next week

The first swell is due across the Mid North Coast on Monday morning, and the Far North Coast into the afternoon, with a second pulse expected overnight before easing through Tuesday. Unfortunately, the atmospheric models have continued to downgrade the responsible front over the last few runs - trending it more zonal in alignment, and also pushing it more quickly through the swell window than is ideal. 

Our surf forecast model isn’t picking up this energy very well either (estimating just 2ft surf), but I think we’ll see some decent waves across the Mid North Coast with sets in the 3ft range at south facing beaches.

Far Northern NSW will pick up this south swell too but the concern north of Coffs Harbour is that the strengthening ridge will generate fresh S/SE winds during Monday, which will wipe out conditions across open south facing beaches (who'll be picking up the south swell). Protected beaches will probably be too small to be worthwhile.

Local conditions should be a little more manageable across the Mid North Coast but even here we’re likely to see some form of southerly breeze during the day. So keep your expectations low. 

SE Qld won’t see any of this south swell, but that’s no big drama as there are much better waves in store for the rest of the week. The Coral Sea ridge is expected to anchor itself in place for a few days early next week, generating a punchy trade swell that should build from late Monday afternoon through into Tuesday, peaking on Wednesday with sets around 3-4ft at outer points and open beaches. The Sunshine Coast may see a few bigger sets, though the protected inner points (such as Noosa) will be considerably smaller. 

Winds will be mainly moderate to fresh SE so the open stretches will be a write off but I’m confident that there’ll be some good options across the outer points (specifically, the southern Gold Coast). Early morning may also see brief, isolated regions of light SW winds, for example the southern Gold Coast. 

The best surfcams to monitor this swell across the Sunshine Coast will be Noosa Heads (click here) and Alex Headland (click here), whilst on the Gold Coast you'll be best off viewing our Greenmount (click here) and Snapper Rocks (click here) surfcams. 

Wave heights from this trade swell will become smaller with increasing southerly latitude but Wednesday’s initial peak should still reach 2ft+ across the Mid North Coast. Winds will be much more favourable here; mainly light and variable with sea breezes. 

The Far Northern NSW coast will otherwise see bigger surf; winds will be a little lighter than SE Qld (thanks to it being further away from the ridge) but it'll still be enough to confine the best waves to sheltered southern corners. 

From Thursday onwards, surf size will slowly ease and local winds should improve in the north as the ridge breaks down. A second swell source is expected to fire up at the tail end of the ridge early in the week - a small low will to develop just NW of New Zealand around Monday (though poorly aligned) before setting up camp north of New Zealand on Tuesday and Wednesday (better aligned, but further away). This should provide some small reinforcing E’ly swell through the backhalf of the week and next weekend as the trade swell starts to tail off. So, expect fun surf across open beaches for Thursday, Friday and Saturday

The longer term outlook doesn’t have much size on the card thanks to an absence of swell generating systems in the Tasman Sea, but it looks like our far eastern swell window will remain relatively active, with small E’ly swells likely through into the following week.

Have a great weekend, see you Monday!

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 12 Aug 2016 at 5:07pm

Always nice to see a progged summer pattern in winter.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Friday, 12 Aug 2016 at 5:12pm

Thanks, Ben.
Water's pretty warm at the moment. Anyone else feel that way?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 12 Aug 2016 at 5:16pm

Yeah been in boardies all year. Loving it!

_benno's picture
_benno's picture
_benno Friday, 12 Aug 2016 at 5:46pm

Love that east swell!

Riley T's picture
Riley T's picture
Riley T Friday, 12 Aug 2016 at 6:02pm

That's me in the picture!! What are the chances

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Friday, 12 Aug 2016 at 7:28pm

Longboarder or Floating footpath Riley? Oh lordy I hope We get some short board action soon, Second half August GFS prog. not to bad,if only it would hold true!!!

Riley T's picture
Riley T's picture
Riley T Friday, 12 Aug 2016 at 7:56pm

Longboarders all the way

groovie's picture
groovie's picture
groovie Saturday, 13 Aug 2016 at 5:34am

Take me back to Indo!!!

masseydoug's picture
masseydoug's picture
masseydoug Saturday, 13 Aug 2016 at 5:40am

Thanks for the excellent forecasting

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 13 Aug 2016 at 4:37pm

Had a surprisingly fun surf despite the small size, clean 1-2ft waves were lining up really well at this spot, allowing three or four turns on every wave. 

Been for a scout up and down the coast this arvo and in the last few days it looks like a lot of sand has filled into the gutters, and there are lots of nice setups here and there.. A big difference since early - mid last week.

Shame there are no small groundswells with offshore winds to capitalise on the improving sand situation!

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Saturday, 13 Aug 2016 at 5:25pm

That's the story of this winter really.

crg's picture
crg's picture
crg Saturday, 13 Aug 2016 at 8:01pm

Same down here...surprisingly fun small waves on a quality bank that's just popped up right in front of my house! Yew!

linez's picture
linez's picture
linez Monday, 15 Aug 2016 at 6:59am

Wow...small this morning. Hoping there would have been something. Trade swell still on the agenda for later today/tomorrow Ben?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 15 Aug 2016 at 8:00am

Hmmm, models have pushed the ridge a little further north into the Coral Sea in the latest runs, which has downgraded the size potential for the next few days. This will also create a slightly larger latitudinal range in wave heights (i.e. Sunny Coast will still see the most size, but it'll be smaller on the Goldy, much smaller across Far Northern NSW), with hardly any influence across the Mid North Coast).

Argh!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 15 Aug 2016 at 9:13am

Seems to be a few small waves at Alex in the 1-2ft range.

https://www.swellnet.com/surfcams/alex-headland