Average waves ahead, but with periods of favourable conditions

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 29th June)

Best Days: Thurs/Fri: fun tending small waves at the open beaches (best in Northern NSW) with offshore winds. Dont expect much in SE Qld away from the swell magnets. Sun: small clean south swell at swell magnets in Northern NSW (don't expect much, if any swell in SE Qld). 

Recap: A strong S’ly swell built across the coast on Tuesday, reaching 6ft+ at south facing beaches in Northern NSW by late in the day. SE Qld was very small due to the swell direction but some open locations (such as D’Bah) picked up fun 3ft sets. Today surf size has trended downwards though south facing beaches in Northern NSW were still quite solid early morning, offering 5-6ft sets. SE Qld has remained much smaller but there have been small peelers on the outer points all day. 


Late Tuesday bowls at D'Bah. Not a bad perspective from our live surfcam, eh?

This week (Thursday 30th - Friday 1st July)

No changes for the rest of the week. We’re at the top of a steady downwards trend and open beaches will come to life as winds swing to the west.

The Tasman Low responsible for this mid-week spike has now cleared our swell window as it tracks eastwards. We still have a poorly-aligned southerly fetch in the north-eastern Tasman Sea that should generate some small sideband energy, but in general it won’t be enough to arrest the otherwise easing trend from the primary source of the last two days. This southerly fetch will slowly rotate clockwise over the next 12 hours, completely shutting down the swell supply to the Australian East Coast by Thursday morning.

The main positive feature of the next few days is a brisk cold front that’s due to cross the coast on Friday morning. This will freshen W/NW tending W’ly then W/SW winds across most coasts (a little lighter in the north) and should clean up the lumps and bumps from the last few days of southerlies. Prior to this Thursday should see light variable winds across most regions. 

As for size, once again we’re looking at only small waves across SE Qld that’ll become tiny through Thursday afternoon and Friday, away from the swell magnets. Your best choice for size will be south of the border (specifically, south of Byron) where we should see early 3ft+ sets at south facing beaches on Thursday easing to 2-3ft by lunchtime, and then further to 2ft into Friday. Expect smaller surf at beaches with less southerly exposure.

So, whilst Friday looks like it’ll offer the best conditions across the open beaches of Northern NSW under the westerly breeze, you’re much better off making the most of Thursday morning’s greater size potential. 

And if you're in SE Qld, you'll have to fuel the truck up for a road trip south of the border.

This weekend (Saturday July 2nd - Sunday July 3rd)

A strong S/SW fetch is expected to develop off the Southern NSW coast in the wake of Friday’s cold front, and this is the only source of new swell for the weekend.

Unfortunately, this system looks like it’ll exit quickly to the east, and with only our acute south swell window expected to become activated, it’s looking like a tiny weekend of waves across SE Qld. 

Surf size will build through Saturday (starting from a low base in the Far North), and will become quite solid at south facing beaches in Northern NSW by late afternoon, but those locations picking up most of the size (~4ft) are likely to be rather wind affected.

Models currently push the front well off the coast by the afternoon so there’s a chance that the early fresh SW tending S/SW airstream will abate mid-late afternoon, but it’ll take some time for the surface wobble to clean up. So keep your expectations low.

Beaches not facing due south will be much smaller than exposed spots, and across SE Qld I’d be surprised if we saw much more than a foot and a half north of the border by close of business Saturday.

Sunday looks much better on the surface with a weak high pressure system providing light variable winds, but Saturday’s south swell will ease steadily during the day. South facing beaches - mainly in the Far North up to about Byron - may see early 3ft sets but they’ll ease to around 2ft during the day, and it’ll be smaller elsewhere due to the southerly swell direction. 

SE Qld is looking at clean but tiny conditions on Sunday, perhaps a foot at open beaches if we’re lucky.

Next week (Monday July 4th onwards)

Wow, the models have done a complete about-face for early next week.

In Monday’s runs there was a suggestion for an amplifying upper level long wave trough driving a series of strong fronts through the lower Tasman - generating a series of back-to-back south swells - but these have evaporated in the latest guidance. 

Instead we’re looking at a couple of days of light winds and small residual swells early in the week, with a suggestion for a new Tasman Low to form close to the coast around Wednesday or Thursday. However, this is right at the end of the model runs so we really need a few more days for confidence to increase (and the models to converge) before we start to pin down specifics. More on this in Friday’s update.

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 29 Jun 2016 at 5:22pm

Kinda ho-hum period ahead. Gawd I hope the banks sort themselves out soon (though there are a few sneaky options on the right tides if you look hard enough).

groovie's picture
groovie's picture
groovie Wednesday, 29 Jun 2016 at 6:31pm

BEEN PUMPING HERE ON THE MID NTH COAST! 4 to 6ft sets & so consistent over the last 2 days! Classic barrels @ two local locations that had been hibernating before the recent E.C.L. that moved a lot of sand back into place! it,s been a GR8 winter so far ! keep it comin Huey!!!

linez's picture
linez's picture
linez Wednesday, 29 Jun 2016 at 6:52pm

Good someone's been getting waves, sounds like the opposite of what has happened up here regarding the sand.

Josh385's picture
Josh385's picture
Josh385 Wednesday, 29 Jun 2016 at 9:10pm

Thanks for all the forecasts Ben! I am planning a surf trip down the coast from Sunday to Thursdsay next week, where would be the best bet for getting some decent size swell? Planning to go from the Gold Coast anywhere to Port Mac. Thanks!

Dibbley's picture
Dibbley's picture
Dibbley Wednesday, 29 Jun 2016 at 10:18pm

If only there were a detailed forecast available, with notes about swell and locations, which would enable you to make an informed decision for your coming trip regarding the surf quality between SE QLD and Nth NSW...some notes by a forecaster? A forecaster's notes if you will...oh wait. ;)

curly2alex's picture
curly2alex's picture
curly2alex Thursday, 30 Jun 2016 at 4:06pm

yes I think Josh was after something a bit more specific, like latitude and longitude !

Josh385's picture
Josh385's picture
Josh385 Friday, 1 Jul 2016 at 1:03pm

Yep, I would like to know what spots south of the Gold Coast will pickup most of the southerly swells. I knows it's going to be a small week and would like to maximise the potential of getting some waves. Thanks

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 1 Jul 2016 at 1:05pm

Sorry mate, we don't divulge location specifics. But, if you take a look at the map it's reasonably easy to work out which parts of the coast are sheltered from south swells - and will therefore be smaller - compared to exposed locations that will be bigger. It ain't rocket science.