Building south swell for Northern NSW, remaining very small in SE Qld

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 27th May)

Best Days: Sat/Sun: moderate (poss solid Sat) S'ly swell in Northern NSW with offshore winds. Mon: small S'ly swell in Northern NSW with good winds. 

Recap: The last few days have presented lots of challenges for the forecasting bench - Thursday’s south swell eased more rapidly than expected, and northerlies developed earlier than anticipated, with more strength than estimated. This has translated into a small peaky NE swell across some parts of the SE Qld and Far Northern NSW coast today; those locations that were also clean under a W’ly breeze enjoyed fun 2ft+ waves.


Lunchtime sets from the NE on the Tweed Coast

This weekend (Saturday 28th - Sunday 29th):

The weekend surf forecast is very tricky. But, we can make some general assumptions about SE Qld - it’s going to be very small and clean. 

A low and front pushing off the Southern NSW coast today, plus a second front pushing off the NSW coast late Saturday, will be aimed towards the E and NE (i.e. displaying anywhere from S/SW through W'ly fetches). Although the swell(s) generated by these systems will spread back into the mainland, it’s likely to only favour Northern NSW. 

In addition to these funky fetches is a deep, complex low that formed off the Far South Coast today, aiming 50-60kts of wind through Northern NSW’s partially sheltered south swell window (see right).

It’s very difficult to estimate the size potential from this source - take a look at how Wednesday’s very large south swell translated (or, didn’t translate) across Northern NSW on Thursday. 

Model guidance has this long period energy pushing through on Saturday morning, but I’m only moderately confident that we’ll see anything sizeable across the region’s south facing beaches. However, there was a system very similar to this many months ago (last year, off the top of my head) which displayed a similar poorly-aligned fetch in about the same region, and its only favourable attribute was a slingshot effect within the swell window - and it ended up punching way higher than we (and computer models) estimated. So that's sitting in the back of my mind too.

Right now, this system does look somewhat similar to that archived event, however it’s hard to know how much to increase or decrease the existing model data by. Southern NSW didn't show any major size increase by close of business today (3-4ft sets at south facing beaches) so I'm inclined to downlay the size potential in Northern NSW for now, despite the incredible satellite winds.

At the present time the models estimate a size increase throughout Saturday and a peak early Sunday, which doesn’t make much sense - this system only lasted a brief time in our swell window (today), and Saturday will likely present the only only opportunity to capitalise on the on period swell push. I suspect the bulk of energy will be gone by Sunday. 

Our surf height model is estimating Ballina (a reliable south swell magnet under most scenarios) will see a peak if 1.7m at 11.8 seconds late Saturday, with surf size in the 4ft range. Gut feel suggest we may see slightly bigger waves at south swell magnets (4-5ft) but most beaches not open to the south will come in smaller (2-3ft). An earlier arrival is expected on the Mid North Coast (so a peak is likely before lunch) with the Northern Rivers likely to see a mid-late afternoon peak in swell. Expect smaller surf ahead of the peak. Conditions should be clean all day under the westerly breeze. 

North of the border, expect small residual swells all day Saturday, with the region’s handful of south swell magnets picking up a very late pulse of new S’ly swell to 2ft+.

As for Sunday, we’re looking at clean conditions in general with moderate W/SW winds tending SW during the day, and easing S’ly swell from Saturday plus a brief pulse of mid-range south swell from a secondary fetch off the bottom of the low. This should keep south facing beaches with inconsistent 3ft+ surf throughout the day - very lully at times though - with smaller 2ft surf at beaches not open to the south.

North of the border, I don’t think we’ll see much more than a lazy foot at most beaches at the height of the swell (late Saturday), perhaps 1-2ft at exposed south swell magnets. Otherwise expect tiny surf throughout SE Qld.

Next week (Monday 30th onward):

A developing S/SW fetch off the South Coast over the weekend should maintain small S’ly swell energy across Northern NSW’s south swell magnets for Monday but it’s expected to be only small (2ft+) and won’t have much strength. Smaller surf is then expected Tuesday and Wednesday.

Across SE Qld, there are no new swell sources for next week so surf size will remain very small. 

Otherwise, there are no major synoptic developments for new swell throughout next week. A small S’ly fetch in the eastern Tasman Sea (associated with the current Tasman low’s later developments across NZ early next week) may deliver some sideband energy for mid-late next week, possibly 2-3ft at swell magnets south of the border but let’s wait and see how the models stack up over the coming days. 

In the same vein, a polar low tracking off the ice shelf on Sunday - that may become absorbed into the broader NZ system early next week - may also generate some side band energy mid-late next week but no great size is likely from this just yet. 

A troughy pattern is also expected to develop across the East Coast, but with no great swell potential at first. Therefore, much of next week will see small residual swells at exposed beaches with light variable winds.

Towards the end of the week, the coastal trough is expected to consolidate, forming a fresh N/NE fetch and a surface low off the South Coast that could generate a some punchy NE swell throughout Friday and into Saturday - however it’s more likely to favour southern NSW than northern NSW (and SE Qld). 

Regardless, these systems are quite volatile in where and when they develop (using long range model guidance) and its close proximity to the coast means confidence is low - if you shift the modelled position of the low 100km west, we won’t see much, if any swell - but there are other scenarios that could work in our benefit.

In any case it’s looking like more of a typical autumn pattern developing later next week (ironically, in the first few days of winter) and there’s a good chance that we’ll see some strong swell potential somewhere across the East Coast over the following days. But it’s way to early to estimate potential size and conditions. 

So, enjoy your weekend, see you Monday!

Comments

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 27 May 2016 at 7:26pm

tricky alright.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 28 May 2016 at 6:55am

The south swell has kicked in strongly across the Mid North Coast, if anything slightly higher than my 4-5ft expectations (though this seems to be a pretty good round figure).

We should see a fairly strong kick across remaining Northern NSW coasts mid-morning through lunchtime. Looks like a great day of waves ahead!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 28 May 2016 at 7:19am

'twas interesting. I was on the rocks in the dark.
Looked like a straight ahead greenlight.....very calm ocean.
Halfway out to the ledge a big thick set solid 3-4ft and it was a red light .

Back to the car to swap the rod for a board.

That was a freak set, it backed off again into sunrise.

But it was definitely here at sunrise.

It might have peaked earlier than expected too, like the last swell.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 28 May 2016 at 7:48am

Almost flat on the Tweed right now.

I think the timing is ok for this swell, morning peak on Mid North Coast, arvo peak on Far North Coast.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 28 May 2016 at 8:20am

yeah, we'll see.

one thing that seems to be characteristic of these refracted S swells is the leading edge ( the swell front) seems to have the biggest waves. it usually tapers off following that.
still trending upwards on the Byron Buoy so you may well be right.
Tracking the NSW buoy data also suggests a still rising trend.

MOdels coming on board for a "black nor-easter" next week.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 28 May 2016 at 9:52am

South swell now showing on the Tweed with 2ft+ sets. Coffs can still showing plenty of size too.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 28 May 2016 at 5:05pm

Swell seemed generally on schedule here on the Tweed. Was tiny at dawn, started showing mid morning with 2ft+ sets, I surfed around noon with inconsistent 2-3ft waves at a reasonably open beach (certainly not a south swell magnet though). Was very inconsistent however. 

I then headed back to the same beach mid arvo with the kids, and for half an hour the swell pumped with more consistent 3ft sets, even the odd bigger bomb. Seemed to start easing though around 4pm, probably assisted by the outgoing tide. Became bery inconsistent again later too.

Lovely conditions all day. Water clarity is incredible! Lots and lots of fish swimming around too.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Saturday, 28 May 2016 at 5:13pm

Pretty epic IMO.
Was just that little bit bigger than the last few Sth swells that it was no where near as crowded on the open stretch.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Saturday, 28 May 2016 at 5:53pm

Water clarity made it easier to spot some decent size sharks in Northern NSW. Cleared the lineup I was in as well as another I heard of.

Dibbley's picture
Dibbley's picture
Dibbley Saturday, 28 May 2016 at 6:45pm

Yeah chopper sounded it's alarm at two beaches I was checking in the morning.
Ended up having a pretty sweet session between 12-3pm, seemed like it might have peaked then.
Got pretty solid on the sets where we were and from there we could see the back of a certain point copping well double overhead sets. Didnt see anyone take em on, it looked heavy as.
After 3pm you could definitely see it back off considerably I thought. By sunset it was way down.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Saturday, 28 May 2016 at 6:49pm

Heavy double overhead sets? Best I saw between 11.30 and 2.30 was fun shoulder-high waves a bit on the fat side at a swell magnet. Maybe I should've looked further afield?

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Saturday, 28 May 2016 at 6:52pm

I saw a number dbl overhead sets.
Mainly 2-3.30.
Not at a point though.
Went out at the first place I checked after work.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Saturday, 28 May 2016 at 6:49pm

Cpl wankers seemed to be waiting on a ski and rubber ducky between sets. They did some step offs and some paddle, but got picked up straight after each wave and never sat in the water. Thought maybe because they were scared of sharks.

They should probably fuck off to Kelly's wave pool.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Saturday, 28 May 2016 at 7:14pm

Let's hope they didn't snake everyone and/or put chop through the lineup Doggy.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Saturday, 28 May 2016 at 7:29pm

No, didn't witness any snaking.
But didn't see a need for them to be there.
I'm sure they would be dropped in on if they tried snaking, but there was enough unridden peaks coming through.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Saturday, 28 May 2016 at 7:37pm

On smallish days it's pretty ignorant. You sure it wasn't the Mad Hueys? Were they drinking beers while they were on the wave?

mcsc's picture
mcsc's picture
mcsc Saturday, 28 May 2016 at 8:33pm

Couldn't have been. Mad Hueys parole conditions keeps them at Snapper, or within the confines of the Keramas pool

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Saturday, 28 May 2016 at 9:39pm

Feeding hotdogs to dolphins.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 28 May 2016 at 8:35pm

that 12-3 window was deffo the peak of it.

the chase's picture
the chase's picture
the chase Sunday, 29 May 2016 at 11:25am

And another day with no surf were differently in a runt

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 29 May 2016 at 12:28pm

hung in pretty good today.

little bit better than expected.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 29 May 2016 at 1:08pm

Just got in from another session at the same Tweed Coast spot, it was half the size (at least) and even less consistent than yesterday. Was down in Ballina earlier with the family though, North Wall looked super fun and pretty solid. Car parks were stacked too (unsurprisingly).

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 29 May 2016 at 1:14pm

correct. half of SEQLD was down here.

saltman's picture
saltman's picture
saltman Sunday, 29 May 2016 at 3:28pm

It peaked on the tweed late yesterday afternoon - 12 hours earlier than forecast
was looking very promising on dark yesterday
but today meh

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 29 May 2016 at 4:26pm

My forecast notes had "the Northern Rivers likely to see a mid-late afternoon peak in swell".

Seemed to peak early-mid afternoon by my observations, but IMO that's an acceptable margin of error (i.e. didn't peak early morning, and didn't peak Sunday).

surfer1's picture
surfer1's picture
surfer1 Sunday, 29 May 2016 at 4:55pm

Next Sunday Looking alright for some peaky waves? BOM going for a WNW change through the morning. Still a week out but could be a few?

groovie's picture
groovie's picture
groovie Sunday, 29 May 2016 at 4:56pm

Sat Morn pumped down here on the Mid nth coast solid 4 to 6ft barrels to be had by the early crew! Sunday seen smaller waves & a lot more crew as the word had got out about a certain former quite beachie that seems to becoming increasingly more popular with the sydney/newy crew . social media & a new h/way have really impacted us here as more & more crew get onto some of our former hidden gems!

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Sunday, 29 May 2016 at 7:22pm

Still a fair drive for a day trip from Sydney I would have thought.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Sunday, 29 May 2016 at 8:19pm

Perfect dead flat crystal clear water all weekend. Amazing snorkeling. Long since given up on lumps of water, going on 4 weeks now...

surfiebum's picture
surfiebum's picture
surfiebum Monday, 30 May 2016 at 8:49am

So, 10ft+ NE swell for the sunny coast on Sunday... :^)

I know you mentioned the variability about where this will form, but that is a seriously optimistic model outcome!

Simmster's picture
Simmster's picture
Simmster Monday, 30 May 2016 at 11:58am

Hey Ben whats the forecast looking like for the weekend period on the sunny coast specifically Sunday/Monday?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 30 May 2016 at 12:26pm

Forecast notes will go up late afternoon.. I'll have more details then.

Simmster's picture
Simmster's picture
Simmster Monday, 30 May 2016 at 12:56pm

No worries

linez's picture
linez's picture
linez Monday, 30 May 2016 at 12:38pm

Any waves this morning Ben?