Extended period of lully south swell, only suitable for Northern NSW
South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 13th May)
Best Days: Should be fun beachbreaks in Northern NSW most days, though very lully at times. Don't expect much in SE Qld. There's also a chance for a large S swell next weekend.
Recap: The expected complex south swell pattern ended up being even more complex than expected. Overall, wave heights came in a little under expectations though the most interesting point was the large variety in size across the region: some locations saw solid 4-5ft sets whilst others dipped out considerably (also of interest - our surf model got the prediction bang on; I expected it was undercalling the long period southerly energy, as it sometimes does). Most beaches in Northern NSW saw good waves across the open beaches though, and conditions were excellent both days with light offshore winds. As expected, SE Qld saw very little surf though the swell magnets picked up some reasonably fun 2-3ft waves as the swell pulsed.
Tweed buoy trace: notice the rise and fall in significant wave heights over the last few days, and the kick in peak swell period late morning today.
This weekend (May 14th - 15th)
The general trend for the weekend will remain as anticipated earlier in the week. However, with surf size coming in under forecast for the last few days - and having monitored surf size across Southern NSW today (which also came in under expectations), I have revised wave heights down.
Once again, we’re looking at a multitude of south swells to grace the region over the coming days, originating from a poorly aligned but very active frontal passage south of the continent.
As such, in similarity to today we should see wave heights ebb and flow as each swell transits across the region, so the take home message is: don’t completely write off the surf potential if your initial check shows small waves. There’s a very good chance that within a few hours it’ll be much different.
So, as for size - SE Qld will remain tiny all weekend, with only the region’s handful of south swell magnets picking up stray sets as the energy glances the coast.
South of the border - specifically, south of Byron - is where you’ll need to head for any appreciable size. South facing beaches will see the biggest waves all weekend, occasionally reaching 3-4ft but as noted above, there will be some long lully periods at times.
Other beaches not directly open to the south will see smaller surf, probably in the 2-3ft range, and the protected points and southern corners will be much smaller again. And, let me once again emphasise the inconsistency - there will be very long breaks between sets.
Fortunately, light variable winds are expected in all areas both days thanks to a weak pressure gradient so conditions should remain very good. So spread yourself out and find an empty beach in order to maximise your wave count.
As for the timing of each swell front: Saturday looks like it’ll see two swells (so, very hard to pick an overall trend), whilst Sunday has one swell expected to arrive from lunchtime onwards. So if anything, Sunday morning may deliver the low point of the weekend, but a building trend is expected into the afternoon. Confidence isn't very high on this though.
In any case I’ll keep an eye on the surf obs across Southern NSW and will post any relevant information in the comments below as it arises.
Next week (May 16th onwards)
Next week is expected to see a continuation of the active Southern Ocean storm track, though with a little less strength than seen over the last few days. This suggests a mainly small week of pulsing south swells across Northern NSW, and very little happening in SE Qld (the trades have been inactive of late, and will remain that way for some time).
At a pinch we may see a mid-week pulse into the 3-4ft range at reliable Northern NSW south swell magnets if we’re lucky, but for now it’s not worth getting too excited about.
Towards the end of next week it looks like a very strong upper level long wave pattern will amplify across the SE corner of the country, possibly leading to a large south swell some time around next weekend, and into the early part of the following week.
I’ll have more details on that on Monday. Until then, have a great weekend!
Comments
What a tricky week on the forecasting bench. Sorry for the delay lads, hope you get some tasty beachies this weekend.
as soon as you mention nth nsw for waves on the weekend. every spot instantly turns into a kook fest from brisbane
Ha-ha. Yep. If you're a real Surfer, you know which beaches face a certain direction to cop S swells. Banks dependant. Wish we had more Reefs to catch a nice S swell angle
Ah, fuck it, I'm down here already... May as well join the rest of the blowins among the locals tomorrow morning for the dawn patrol. Was surprised to see 4 dudes still out at north wall after 5.30 tonight. Sheesh, it looking friggin' sharky!
Make sure you give us a report wingy. (bacon and egg roll I mean; )
Thanks for Wednesdays report Ben it was bang on. We scored epic waves yesterday morning south of Byron and at about 11am there was a peak of energy with the largest waves coming through. Crystal clear water light offshores and the water was still warm, few locals out in boardies.I'd post a lineup shot but it wouldn't be fair to the locals.
On a totally different note, could the 'remember my password' option be implemented into the log on screen so that your automatically logged in each time you visit the site?
Thanks Nick, seemed to me that the swell came in under expectations but I'm stoked you scored.
Re: password - yep that's on the to-do list (#2735, I believe!)
Had a fun surf yesterday morning all to myself for an hour or so on the Tweed (wasn't an out-of-the-way spot either, surprisingly). Very inconsistent sets around the 2-3ft mark, but it was very tidally dependent.
Linez, and anyone else interested... It's fair to say the quality of the bacon and egg rolls on my north coast sojourn were almost perfectly proportional to the quality of the surf conditions.
Having factored in roll type, quantity of filling, sauce or other condiment included and price with a medium cappuccino, freerides recommended scored the lowest. Having just consumed it, and watched the northerly move up the beach, I may have been better to stick precisely with his suggestion.
It was though, after all, the bacon and egg roll surf trip. No fancy BLT bullshit and extras!
I won't reveal the ultimate bacon and egg location, but, lets say it was a bit further south and the spunky chick with the light copper dyed hair who served it was just more delight. Although more expensive, with a coffee, the overall enjoyment was far superior.
Haha sounds like a winner....now all we need is a list of the places you surfed, the optimum conditions for those spots and of course, details on how to get to them ;)
I'm a kook, not an idiot. I ain't gunna shit in me own nest! With the Byron to Ballina highway fully open, travelling most of it at 110kmh from the border south, the distance to many options, especially Sth swell options has shrunk considerable. Yeah, ok, same distance, WAY less time. Sheesh, freeride country is now only 40mins from me. I'm gunna need a better bacon and egg recommendation!
Not seeing much sign of the pulse for this afternoon on the buoys further south.
Just sliced my hand open while chopping up roast duck and had to get 10 stitches, hopefully no surf for the next 10 days!
Thanks for your sacrifice. It was looking ordinary on the wave front, with minimal swell, but, you've given us hope until the next decent pulse later in the week.
Pretty small out my way this morning. Lovely conditions though.