Lotsa trade swell incoming

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 11th March)

Best Days: Great waves most days, though initially best suited to protected points in SE Qld and Northern NSW over the weekend thanks to local winds. Lighter winds early/mid next week and plenty of fun beachies across all coasts. 

Recap: A temporary lull in easterly energy occurred on Thursday but we’ve seen a slow building trend today as the trade swell has started to kick back into gear. The largest waves have been in SE Qld and Far Northern NSW; surf size has been a little smaller across the Mid North Coast. 

This weekend (Mar 12th - 13th)

No changes to the weekend forecast.

The synoptics show a strengthening E’ly dip SW of New Caledonia, embedded in the broader trade flow, and plenty of swell generating winds extending further east into the South Pacific. This region will remain quite active throughout the forecast period.

Essentially, we are expecting a further slow building trend over the weekend, ahead of a peak in size on Monday. In actual fact, the latest model guidance has slightly strengthen the core fetch and pulled it a little closer to the mainland, so we should see marginal bigger wave heights than what was estimated on Wednesday.

Saturday morning should begin much the same as what we’re seeing this afternoon - broadly in the 3ft range across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW, a little smaller south of Ballina - but a minor increase is expected into the afternoon as the swell continues to muscle up. Sunday will see a further size increase throughout the morning, and the late afternoon should be pulling in 4-5ft sets across exposed beaches.

Local winds will strengthen from the south-east all weekend as the ridge tightens up across the Coral Sea and Queensland's coastal margin, and it’s likely that most open beaches will become blown out, probably early too. This means that the sheltered points will have the best waves throughout the forecast period, though they’ll be smaller in size. 

Some locations (i.e. Coolangatta) may see brief windows of light SW winds both mornings around dawn but across the broader SE Qld and Far Northern NSW region this will be the exception rather than the rule. However, the Mid North Coast will be sufficiently far south of the ridge to experience lighter onshore winds, and a considerably longer period of light variable winds early morning, across a greater expanse of the coast. The only downer here is that surf size will be a little smaller. 

Next week (Mar 14th onwards)

The models have shifted around since Wednesday’s notes, but the good news is that there’s no major change to next week’s outlook.

The short range trade swell generated by the strengthening E’ly dip near New Caledonia will reach a peak across our coast on Monday, and exposed beaches between the Sunshine Coast and Byron Bay are now looking at solid 4-5ft+ sets at times. Expect smaller surf down the points but it should have plenty of push, and the swell will be quite consistent too. 

Whilst core wind speeds within this system are nothing over the top, the close proximity of this fetch to the mainland plus the slow westward track of the dip will accentuate swell heights and periods from the otherwise smaller theoretical maximum. Wave heights will be smaller south from Coffs (peaking around 4ft+ at open beaches).

Monday’s swell ease steadily into Tuesday (3ft+ or so in the north, smaller to the south) however a second E’ly dip embedded in the trades - this time located further east - is expected to remain active in our swell window from Monday thru’ Thursday. The difference with this fetch is that it’ll be a little narrower, positioned a little further from the mainland and will slowly retreat from the east - however its distance from the mainland means we’ll see a slightly more uniform spread of size. At this stage we should see surf size rebuild back up into the 3ft+ range on Wednesday, before leveling out into the 2-3ft+ range for Thursday and Friday

Looking elsewhere in our swell windows, and a strong Southern Ocean front passing south of Tasmania later this weekend is expected to push a ridge along the Southern NSW coast into Tuesday. Ordinarily, this system doesn’t look favourable for Northern NSW - or especially SE Qld - but I think we could see some surprising results from the resulting fetch.

The main reason is that it’s expected to remain near stationary for a few days (which is quite unusual in this neck of the woods), spread the entire width of the Tasman Sea from the southern tip of New Zealand up into the Sydney region where we may see the formation of a small closed low.

Most of this system will be aimed towards southern regions (south of Newcastle) but there are a few fetches I’ll be keeping an eye on next week - specifically those in the south-eastern Tasman Sea - that could line up for our region, and produce some fun SE swell around the 3ft+ mark across Northern NSW later next week (smaller in SE Qld due to the direction).

And a Tasmam Low is still modelled to develop mid-week, which could give rise to a punchy short range S tending SE swell (mainly Northern NSW) later next week too. So on the whole, we have three potential swell sources for the second half of next week - from the S/SE, SE and E. That’s a a decent bet each way, even if the likely surf won’t be terribly big.

As for local winds, we’re expecting light variable winds to settle across the coast on Tuesday (following a similar ridgey, but weakening pattern Monday, as per the weekend). Southerly winds will push up the Northern NSW coast mid-week as the closed low forms but at this stage it probably won’t affect SE Qld to any great degree, so in general variable conditions will persist north of here.

Have a great weekend, see you on Monday.

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 11 Mar 2016 at 6:37pm

I love a Friday upgrade! (even if just a small one)

mrmik's picture
mrmik's picture
mrmik Friday, 11 Mar 2016 at 7:56pm

Yeah, it's looking good!
The circus in Cooly is drawing the masses away from other spots, I got overhead faces to myself this afternoon! A bit messy, but lots of opportunity to practice drops and powerful bottom turns without anyone near enough to get in the way.
So empty, you don't even have to check if someone might get in the way, because you know that no-one is there. What a beauty. Actually just concentrating on surfing the wave, not the crowd! That professional surfing stuff is not all bad.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Sunday, 13 Mar 2016 at 11:07am

Ok..... Great wsl tuned into swellnet today bahahahaha.... In the words off Billy Birningham classic Richie benaud takeoff, "we'll work as a team and do it my way" :p

Stick with the mens....not 7am but 6.30am check - start 7am both sat and sunday - ensures prime time in USA... Pump through the rounds.... Finals on Monday, which Ben has called 4 foot plus (I agree).... Monday also has a "neapish" high tide of only 1.21m, at 11.21am...... That's a pretty small high tide...... Highs are normally up in the 1.6m region.....
So yeah... I'd do my best to target Monday as qf/semi/ and finals day.... If the winds fuck the scene, tuesday morning at 3 foot is a back up......
A bird in the hand is two in the bush..

mitchvg's picture
mitchvg's picture
mitchvg Saturday, 12 Mar 2016 at 1:41am

HA! I've actually been reading you in the voice of Bill Lawry since you said "ludacris" whilst criticising the regulating body haha. And you know what, it makes it easier to read somehow haha

mitchvg's picture
mitchvg's picture
mitchvg Saturday, 12 Mar 2016 at 1:48am

Hmmmm so who is your Richie (..."Aamir Sohail." Bill: "HAIL RICHIE."...)
Who's your Warnie...?
Tony Greig's hard cos there's too many... Probably Don haha.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Saturday, 12 Mar 2016 at 1:20pm

Ohh Fr would have to be Bill... Bahahahaha..... With the Byron Ballina region being his MCG :p And the way he whinges and whines on about calls, reports..... "What was he thinking!! Got him YEESSS!! Beautiful day here in the home of surfing... "

And Donny is a dead ringer for Tony Greig with his weather wall :p "Yiis we hev a brisk southerly blowing here today.... Surfer cumfet livel is rated ez a siven.. Ahh kant eeven senk my kee into the wex.... Very steff indeeeed"......... bahahaha

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Sunday, 13 Mar 2016 at 11:22am

Why the fuck they didn't hold the mens yesterday still has me beat.... Thankfully the dip is hangn in there..... Tuesday may have a touch more size than previously thought... But they better stop fucking around if they want finals day in nice conditions..

Still watching that developing sub tropical system east of NZ for a very sneaky 2 to 3 foot at 11 seconds for around saturday.... But it'd wanna spin up now..... Jury is still out..

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Sunday, 13 Mar 2016 at 1:10pm

I'd say that's all she wrote for today looking at current local winds down there.

Run it tomorrow morning before the high tide. Then finish the fecker on Wed when conditions look way better with frck all tide run all day offshores and similar swell to today.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Sunday, 13 Mar 2016 at 1:41pm

As I said, Don, at least the dip is hanging in there..... I can't see the "swell bar" being correct for tues arvo (dropping down to 2 1/2 foot).

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 11 Mar 2016 at 8:30pm

Just about the wind: is kind of irrelevant under trade swell as long as the bank is in reasonable shape, perfect example today.
Why I reckoning the case of artificial reefs the question of wind protection is far less important than some kind of solid bathymetry that makes waves peel off.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Friday, 11 Mar 2016 at 11:35pm

Yeah true that one fr..... But re' points - only have one sweep or rip to deal with.... Put an artificial reef on an open flat stretch, ad a 15k ese, and you've got yourself a heck of alot more currents and lumps to deal with than what was seen today at snapper.... Headlands and cliffs also create a bit of updraft....
Having said that, I'm sure wobbly bumpy but peeling off reefs would be better than miles of onshore closeouts. And when conditions ARE prime, hey! ;)

the chase's picture
the chase's picture
the chase Saturday, 12 Mar 2016 at 2:59am

Agreed. Winds are allways going to cause issues no changing that. But How sweet would 10 artificial reef be up and down the coast. At least a 2ft wave would be surfable rather then a beach closeout.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 12 Mar 2016 at 11:25am

Just continuing the discussion from the last Forecaster Notes (re: running half days of the Quik Pro), and it all kinda makes sense this morning. This afternoon will be similar to yesterday afternoon - tides, winds and conditions - just with a little more size. As such, they've sent the Women out in this morning's incoming tide (so the waves will get fuller and fatter) and have left the best surf of the day for the Mens.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Saturday, 12 Mar 2016 at 5:55pm

Gee Ben, the contest directors aren't all out there to stitch up the women. :p

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Saturday, 12 Mar 2016 at 1:42pm

Ben... This is a real long shot..... But are you keeping an eye on the system around 170w35s? Had a couple of sneaky ese swells over the past year just squeeze past NZ for the NNSW/qld region... Could be worth keeping an eye on that one.... No promises lol

NickT's picture
NickT's picture
NickT Saturday, 12 Mar 2016 at 6:11pm

Scored pumping waves on NNSW this morning early and a second surf at about 10am even after the wind came up. Does anyone know if the wind will die off like it did last night and swing variable again for the morning?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 12 Mar 2016 at 6:47pm

Yeah should be light early AM again across Far Northern NSW. Might be some wobble through the lineup but in general well worth the effort.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 12 Mar 2016 at 6:46pm

Looking good along the Superbank this afternoon.


Kirra's not looking too shabby either.

mickseq's picture
mickseq's picture
mickseq Saturday, 12 Mar 2016 at 7:37pm

What is a reliable wind forecast app?

roubydouby's picture
roubydouby's picture
roubydouby Sunday, 13 Mar 2016 at 2:33pm

I really like the willy weather website Mick.

blow-in-9999's picture
blow-in-9999's picture
blow-in-9999 Saturday, 12 Mar 2016 at 9:08pm

The Sunny Coast was napping today. Scored a usually crowed joint with only a handful of guys. I'd expect a total shitfest tomorrow.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Monday, 14 Mar 2016 at 3:18pm

Still an outside chance for a longer period but very inconsistent ese groundswell around the 3 foot mark at 11 seconds for the weekend. But only for the northern regions..

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Monday, 14 Mar 2016 at 3:20pm

Thanks Sheepio great to know.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Monday, 14 Mar 2016 at 3:28pm

Cheers, welly.... Not totally super confident on it.... But worth keeping an eye out.... originating from east of your old stomping ground... North island blocking out Coffs/Yamba etc... You know the deal lol