Average trade swells marred by onshore winds; still potential for next week
South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 9th March)
Best Days: No great days, though there will be surf around most of the time. Expect very slowly building E'ly swell across SE Qld from Fri thru' Mon (peaking late Sun/Mon), but onshores will maintain below average conditions. Next week has some promise with several additional swell sources.
Recap: Nothing overly special. A small pulse of E’ly swell delivered a renewal of swell across most coasts on Tuesday however onshore winds came in moderate or greater across locations north of about Yamba (south of Yamba, the early morning generally offered a period of reasonable conditions). This small swell plus some background trade energy has persisted into this morning with similar winds - light to moderate onshore across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW, with light variable winds south of about Yamba.
This week (Mar 10th - 11th)
No real changes to the immediate forecast. A broad but ultimately moderate band of trades south of New Caledonia are generating small trade swells that will persist about the coast for the next few days, mainly favouring SE Qld and Far Northern NSW in the size department.
This fetch is expected to muscle up a tad from this afternoon onwards, which should bring about a minor increase into late Thursday afternoon and Friday. But it’s an incremental increase at best and with persistently average surface conditions (read: lingering onshore winds) there’s not much to get excited about.
We may see an early period of light variable winds in some locations on Thursday - mainly south of about Yamba, as we have been seeing this week - but what we really need across SE Qld is a period of moderate offshores to iron out the lumps and bumps from the current onshore flow. This isn’t likely, so the upshot is that surface conditions across northern regions will remain very ordinary for the next few days, even if we’re lucky to see a period of light/variable winds in the mornings.
Surf size may temporarily dip Wednesday afternoon and into Thursday morning before rebuilding again throughout the day but I can’t see much more than 2-3ft+ max by Friday afternoon. The upper end of this size range will probably be found across the Sunshine Coast open beaches (and maybe the Gold Coast at a pinch), with smaller surf as you track south. Expect smaller waves as you run down the various regional points too (the short swell period means that only shallow, sand bottom points will offer anything worthwhile).
So, keep your expectations low and you’ll find some small peaky beach breaks. But it’s not going to be anything special, and it’s certainly not worth any flexi time from work.
This weekend (Mar 12th - 13th)
The broader trend of a slow upwards increase from Saturday through Monday is still on track.
We’re currently under a blocking pattern consisting of broad, stationary high in the Tasman Sea, and an elongated trough of low pressure across the Northern Coral Sea. The Tasman high is driving a ridge across the Northern Tasman Sea, into the Queensland coast.
An easterly dip - a small area where the isobars within the ridge bend, or ‘dip’ to the south, strengthening winds and focusing the fetch - has been touted to develop for some time though the models haven’t been especially confident in where, when or how strong.
It looks like the evolution of this easterly dip will be slow going, which means surf size will build incrementally over the weekend. And because it’ll be associated with a ridge in our immediate swell window, we should see a fairly quick translation at the coast.
Again, surf size from this episode will mainly produce the biggest waves in and around the SE Qld coasts. Surf size should build very slowly from 2-3ft+ on Saturday morning up towards 3-4ft+ by later Sunday at open beaches, but expect smaller surf south of the border. There’ll be lully periods in the mix, and initially the trade swell could be a little susceptible to the tides however we should see a slow increase in the strength of the swell all weekend.
The only downer for the weekend’s slowly building easterly swell will be the presence of a persistent onshore wind. As mentioned above, even the chance for a period of light variable winds each morning will be tempered by the fact that we ideally need a period of moderate offshore winds to iron out the lumpiness, and this isn’t likely - so at best we can expect plenty of early morning wobble. Otherwise, expect moderate to sometimes fresh E/SE winds throughout Saturday and possibly even Sunday. Winds will be lighter south of Ballina or Yamba (and with a lengthier period of early light offshores) but there'll be less size here.
Next week (Mar 14th onwards)
So, it looks like our easterly dip is going to strengthen a little more early next week and then track south. The strengthening is a promising sign, but the southward track is concerning for SE Qld coasts.
At this stage it looks like Monday’s peak will ease a little into Tuesday morning before we see a second pulse of E’ly swell from the dip, however this time ‘round the source isn’t quite as good - despite possibly having a little more strength (and this may change in future mode updates), it’s likely that the fetch will be narrower, won’t have the ridge extension to the coast (a small but useful addition for this weekend’s swell) and it’ll also be tracking southwards, perpendicular to the swell window. So we'll see a swinging swell direction, depending on your coast - but in SE Qld it'll trend E'ly then E/SE, maybe even SE.
This leads me to cap potential wave heights from this source to something a little smaller than what we’re expecting Monday (3-4ft+ open SE Qld beaches), and it’ll also occur over a smaller period of time. Perhaps a late increase to 3ft+ at open beaches later Tuesday and into early Wednesday, before easing into Wednesday afternoon.
There are a few positives with this pulse though - it’ll favour Northern NSW with a similar level of size (maybe even a shade more, as the fetch looks like it’ll be better aimed here) and the weakening of the coastal ridge will allow for lighter winds in all regions from Monday thru’ Wednesday. It’ll still be onshore but there’ll be less strength overall, and we should see a longer period of light variable winds in the morning, with a little less wobble that what’s expected over the weekend.
As the E’ly dip continues to travel south, it’ll continue to aim towards Southern NSW and could very well shut off the swell supply to SE Qld. So we are at risk for the Gold and Sunshine Coasts to see decreasing wave heights from Wednesday onwards for a couple of days. However Northern NSW should continue to feel the benefits of smaller sideband E’ly swell.
That being said, the end of next week has some great potential too.
The southward tracking E’ly dip (likely a trough of low pressure, possibly even a closed low at some point) is likely to merge with a strong ridge building along the Southern NSW coast, sometime during the middle of the week. The most likely outcome of this is the formation of a Tasman Low well east of Sydney however it’s much too early to know whether this system will end up being a major swell producer, and when we may see its produce.
But, if I had to go out on a limb, it currently looks like we may see swell from a couple of Tasman sources. Initially, Northern NSW should see some building S/SE swell from the southern NSW ridge around Wednesday or Thursday (plus some sideband E’ly swell from the dip) but this would be unlikely to reach SE Qld in any meaningful way due to the swell source and direction. Exposed south facing beaches in Northern NSW may pick up 3-5ft surf from this source; local winds are unsure at this stage though.
If the Tasman Low ends up developing as suggested above, we’ll probably see this influence the region from later next week and more likely into the following weekend. Such systems usually favour Northern NSW for the most size, with SE Qld typically seeing only half of the size (or sometimes less).
At this stage there is certainly the chance for a strong SE swell from this synoptic setup but it’s a very long way down the track and we need a lot of things to happen before then. Let’s wait and see how Friday’s model runs are looking.
Comments
You wet the bed this morning Ben!!!
He's like a kid who's woken up early cos he knows he's going to Dreamland bahahaha...
BTW, one element that wasn't covered - "swell off the back of the low/dip".... Sat/sun some decent swell producing energy behind the dip...
And winds never exactly follow the isobar lines..... Always a kink inwards towards low pressure... So I think the qld aspect is very slightly undercooked, Ben....
Don.... Hope you got my replies re' qld/ nt, a few days ago, where I added a potential secondary low onto your inland low.... I stated secondary low may form off FNQ.....
I'm hearing ya SD. I'm a big fan of the slingshot effect!!!
Re: "back of the dip" - it's covered in the notes. 3ft+ later Tues, early Wed.
Paragraph before that slightly confuses me... re' later tues early wed.... You say swell will swing ese then se in the paragraph before for that time frame.... So late tues early wed will ese to se swell?
If so, how is that related to the easterly back of the dip source I'm referring to?
So after 2 months of media whitewash about the epic conditions in QLD the tap turns off for the Quiky pro...again. Combine that with a very early Easter/Bells this year and things looking dismal for the Aussie WCT leg......better update my fantasy team and stock it full of flyweight Brazilians.
Doesn't look that bad, pigsymuncher.... And it's not like snapper is a big wave spot... I'd expect some quite contestable 4 to 5 foot surf over the next week. And there's still a chance of 5 foot plus, albeit slim.
nice one Shaun.....lets hope so. This event aligns perfectly for watching online at work.....would hate to squander the opportunity on 2ft onshore mush burgers
" 2 foot onshore mushburgers"..... So that's your call for the whole comp?
BTW... It's not shaun.... It's sam :p
nice.....a much cooler cat than shaun the sheep.
Monday morning looks alright Ben? Maybe at a point protected from the SE? What's your prediction
Same as it is above. No major changes as yet. 3-4ft+ out of the east, moderate SE winds, possibly lighter and more SW for a brief period early morning.
Or Sheepdog
I smell Kelly slater pulling into a 4ft drainer in round 3 heat 1 Monday morning first of the morning winds have backed off its a but lumpy but a gem comes through and lines up perfectly. Next heat John John just goes bananas huge air massive carves and finishes up with a 10 second going through greenmount. It's probably won't happen but I hope it does
Nobody remembers or cares about the call on when a comp is started.... But everyone remembers a call on when to finish..... With that said, the outgoing tide today will have some totally contestable sections...... Get it going this arvo....
They'll want to complete a whole round on one day (in the same conditions). So it's unlikely they'll run the Mens, but the Womens may get a start.
Mens should be running tomorrow, Sun and Mon. Could even see a Tuesday finish?
"They'll want to complete a whole round on one day (in the same conditions). So it's unlikely they'll run the Mens"
You're right... Even though it's totally irrelevant... Dunno why organizers worry about "same conditions" for a round..
And yeah I'd be aiming to make the most of this slowly growing trade swell.... I wouldn't be banking on the potential development in FNQ....
It's so that all heats within the round have similar conditions. There have been previous instances where some rounds have had started off in clean 3ft barrels in the afternoon, and then the second half of the round has finished in small northerly windchop the next day.
But we're only at Day 2 and the short term forecast is fine, they'll get good waves to run most of the round. Honestly you don't want it much bigger than what they've got coming at Snapper. As long as the winds play ball we'll see some great surf.
"It's so that all heats within the round have similar conditions. There have been previous instances where some rounds have had started off in clean 3ft barrels in the afternoon, and then the second half of the round has finished in small northerly windchop the next day."
Yeah.... And? Surfers in heat one aren't affected by conditions in the last heat.... And visa versa..... You dont stop day one of the golf coz the wind drops out for the later players on the tee.... You don't stop wimbledon coz it's 18' and cloudy in the morning but 27 and sunny in the afternoon... It's bullshit..
SD, there are many reasons why comps will run on some days and not on others. The qaves are the primary factor, but the intracacies of broadcasting also plays a part. But honestly, don't get worked up just because they may/may not paddle out this afternoon. We've got three or four days of waves ahead, the comp will run, everything will be fine.
I agree with you on this , Ben.
surfing is not tennis, or golf or football. The field( line up) constantly changes. Keeping the rounds in similar conditions is a more balanced approach. It also keeps the judging more consistent as they will gauge waves from other heats to use as a guide for the round.
Ben I understand your argument above but unfortunately it's fatally flawed if they hold surfing competitions in the ocean. We live on a planet that has tides in the ocean. So you can never have a whole day of exactly the same conditions. Physically not possible.
Winds still 50/50 for the weekend IMO. Could have just that too much east in them for outer snapper to not be onshore.
As I mentioned earlier, there are other considerations that come into play (i.e. broadcast schedules)... of course surf conditions will never be the same throughout each day.
Probably a better example of a reason not to break up individual Rounds across different days is when there's the possibility that there could be several laydays between. So, imagine running half of Round 4 on a Wednesday afternoon, then the ocean goes flat for five days, then the second half of Round 4 is surfed the following Tuesday. This breaks up the flow (and the media), which is best avoided.
But we're at the start of a four day (or more) run of trade swell and it's all going to be much the same as today, just a little bigger through until Monday before tapering off after that. So there's no major issue in running half days as the surf won't be terribly different from day to day.
I honestly did think they'd kick off with the Roxy Pro though, it's what they've usually done in the past.
Ballina BOM latest obs reckons it was offshore all night up until 10.00am today.
Well the wind was well and truly easterly before first light and into the morning.
Bastards had me out of bed for the early.
Ballina airport is too far inland, Cape Byron tells the true story... http://www.bom.gov.au/products/IDN60801/IDN60801.94599.shtml
Should of checked the dawn report.
Thanks Craig about the cape bom.
I don't usually need the report as I'll just take the whole quiver in the car, so only need the winds.
Ben, I'm not worked up lol..... I just disagree with the wsl stance.... It's ludicrous and nonsensical.. As I said, no one in the wash up really gives a rats tosser about when the comp gets started..... Eg - can anyone recall the conditions of round one last year? Or how about bells? Margs? But can you recall the conditions for the qf's, semis and finals?
Get the bloody thing going.... Then you open up having more time to utilize the best conditions for the finals..
Don.... A bit of wind on the take off aint too bad.... As long as it winds off down the line...
Game.... Set.....Match....... :p
Ha SD must have rung WSL and told them to GO!!
Ha! Well there ya go. Next days won't be terribly different anyway, same weather and conditions just a little more swell.
WSL are calling this surf 4-5ft (as per press release) - only looks about 3ft to me.
Its not even close to 5ft from what i have seen. Think your call a 3ft is more realistic.
They're measuring face feet (which is about 5ft).
4 to 5 feet??? O....K......
Yeah faces for sure..... I think the whole surfing world has to look at how wave size is measured..... I think the macho undercall is a wank, possibly a bigger wank than calling it by face size.... Some waves don't have a back, so how the fuck do you measure a wave with no back? And when the surf gets beyond massive, big wave surfers start calling it "70 foot faces"...... So it's all over the fucking shop..
Well.... Just saw a couple of overhead "faces" in heat 7.... Have to be a 3 foot plus swell...
I had 2-3ft+ for this afternoon so it seems to be bang on expectations so far. And with the models performing well, it's promising for the weekend's increase too.
I think you'll find WSL calling surf size similar to what surfline forecast.