Generally small trade swells; long term still has some promise

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Monday 7th March)

Best Days: No great days (compared to recent weeks) but Tues looks the best south of the border, and Thurs PM, Fri, Sat and Sun the pick north of the border. However we will see small peaky waves at most open beaches, most days. 

Recap: Saturday saw a small mix of leftover short range E/SE swell, and an afternoon increase in new long range (but only mid-period) E’ly swell, generated by a fetch off the northern tip of New Zealand’s North Island mid week. Because of Saturday afternoon’s moderate onshores, this swell performed the best on Sunday where winds remained only light onshore for much of the day; sets held in around the 3ft+ mark across Far Northern NSW in the morning (smaller elsewhere) before tailing off into the afternoon. It was interesting to note no discernible difference in peak swell periods both days, though the swell was certainly stronger Sunday than Saturday in my neck of the woods. However compared to recent weeks it wasn’t anything to write home about. Today we’ve seen surf size slump a little more, with similar winds. 

This week (Mar 8th - 11th)

In summary: there’s nothing major on the cards for the foreseeable future. But, there will be waves most days with a moderate summer trade pattern expected to remain steady across our eastern swell window.

A slow moving Tasman High and a broad, but otherwise uninteresting tropical depression across the Coral Sea will keep the trade swell engine humming just enough to supply the beach breaks with small peaky waves for much of this week. 

In Friday’s notes I mentioned a small secondary E’ly fetch developing off the northern coast of NZ would push westward over the weekend, and this would renew E’ly swell about all coasts into Tuesday. However wind strengths weren’t very high (lower than what generated Sunday’s small pulse) and despite pushing a little closer to our region I just don’t think there’ll be enough for much more than an occasional 2ft, maybe 2-3ft set at exposed beaches in Far Northern NSW, with marginally smaller surf across the Mid North and SE Qld Coasts. Keep your expectations pegged appropriately low. 

Otherwise, the trades are ebbing and flowing to our north-east and east, and they will continue to provide intermittent energy all week. With no definitive swell fronts, and a reasonable chance that all of the swell generated will be sufficiently weak to be quite tidally susceptible (plus with the added bonus of persistent onshores, even if only light to moderate in strength), it’s hard to pick the best day of the week. 

But at this stage, it seems that we may encounter a slightly weaker period of swell activity from Wednesday lunchtime through Thursday early afternoon. Tuesday’s pulse should keep most beaches active with peaky 2-3ft sets (though mainly south of the border; it could be a fraction smaller at many SE Qld beaches), and a slightly stronger round of E’ly swell is expected late Thursday that should fill out Friday with some decent waves - though this time ‘round more favourably suited towards SE Qld, and maybe a smidge higher around 2-3ft+ (smaller south of Ballina).

So in short: aside from the potential onshores, Tuesday looks fun across Northern NSW, with Thursday afternoon and Friday probably the pick in SE Qld. There’ll still be small peaky waves at the open beaches on the other days but you’ll have to capitalise on the early windows of light variable winds for the best surf. 

This weekend (Mar 12th - 13th)

The tropical depression across the Coral Sea is still expected to slowly intensify but the latest model runs have put this back ‘till Friday and Saturday. And there’s not a lot of strength in it. Still, we are looking at a slowly building trade swell all weekend with fun peaky beaches across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW. 

At this stage, surf size is expected to increase slowly both days towards a peak on Monday; most open beaches north of Ballina should see 2-3ft surf on Saturday, reaching 3-4ft by Sunday afternoon, with possibly a few bigger waves across the Sunshine Coast later in the day. 

South of Ballina, surf size will be a little smaller but the same trend should play out, and the swell direction will have a little more north in it.

As for local winds - a weak synoptic flow will result in similar conditions to what we’re expecting this week, that is light and variable in the morning, tending onshore into the afternoon. Winds may veer more NE across the Mid North Coast but it probably won’t have any major strength. 

All in all, rather uninspiring but certainly surfable. And with the short range peaky energy on offer there’ll be lots of options to spread out amongst the open beaches, instead of crowding the points. 

Next week (Mar 14th onwards)

Still nothing major to hang your hat on right now but for surfers in SE Qld we’re expecting a relatively good, if somewhat bog standard trade flow  to persist into next week. Which means perhaps slightly above average (sized) trade swell for a couple of days. Monday's peak should maintain 3-4ft waves north of the border (maybe even a little bigger on the Sunny Coast), and smaller surf south of Ballina. 

The ends of the model runs are showing some more significant development in our far eastern swell window - all of which have the possibility to super-charge the pre-existing easterly flow at some point and generate a bigger, stronger easterly swell during the middle to latter part of next week - but for now it’s too far away to have any confidence in. Let’s check back on Wednesday to see how things are looking for the long term. 

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 7 Mar 2016 at 5:25pm

Shame those E'ly dips haven't maintained gusto in the latest model runs, though there's still potential, which is always a good sign. Better than no trades and local northerlies, anyway. The weekend's surf was super fun: I'd be happy with that most days of the week. 

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 7 Mar 2016 at 5:27pm

Still looking good for me on the 00z charts..

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 7 Mar 2016 at 5:28pm

Hmm, that's into next week though. This often happens with GFS - it holds something "at the end" of the model runs, pushing it back by a day, each day (that development was expected to Thurs/Fri, now it's been shunted forward to Tuesday). Playing catchup can take a while!

batfink's picture
batfink's picture
batfink Tuesday, 8 Mar 2016 at 12:13pm

Yeah Ben, sometimes it's like watching the horizon, it's always out there, just out of reach.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Monday, 7 Mar 2016 at 8:07pm

Something's on the brew, that's for sure.....

Don.... Whatever way you look at it (re' what you mentioned long term in the last notes), there's a heck of a lot of deep rooted moisture coming in from the east over the next few days thanks to the large fetch and developing dip, we've got ex winston priming fnq, a freaky summer trough over adelaide hooking up with a roaring 40s low, and extending up to the NT.... So there's a lot going on.... Then there's the mjo data which I haven't had a good look at, but just by checking forecast charts, well... lol.. The map Craig posted above looks more like a developing late december set up....
I note that nt/qld set up you were looking at has a secondary low off Townsville... Water temp currently around 30'.......
Too early to call whether gulf or NQ coast will be the hot spot.... In the mean time, enjoy the comp.... hehehe

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Monday, 7 Mar 2016 at 8:24pm

I feel weather simulates itself around 3 times at least, over a certain period?

Before Winston that long range swell way out below Fiji and NZ, then Winston that did the classic that no-one predicted.

So maybe the next good swell producer, will be closer and maybe better??

Craig's map above shows the whole of Oz in a low pressure zone and as Sheepio said rain/front down Ads way.

We never know, but it's an awesome thing to expand the mind with positives;)

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Monday, 7 Mar 2016 at 11:05pm

I agree welly, re' "simulates".... Well sort of..."simulate" maybe not exactly the word.... Dunno if over the last 2 years of me sprouting shit here you've ever noticed me use "snail trail"..... I'm specifically talking pacific tropical and sub tropical systems...

Also, over decades of watching, I've called that waaaay out long distance east swell region "el nino alley" (past fiji and out towards the international date line).... it may be my imagination, but a heck of a lot more tropical systems seem to be out there in el nino years... La nina years seem to have more Cape York qld coast cyclones.... Again, it may be selective memory lol

the chase's picture
the chase's picture
the chase Tuesday, 8 Mar 2016 at 12:37am

SD Your allways good value for a read.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 8 Mar 2016 at 6:01am

Not your imagination SD, that's very well documented now ....South Pac has more cyclones in El Nino, Coral Sea in an La Nina. Just a simple cause and effect related to the distribution of warm water in the west pacific warm pool.

But this year has been a classic for it.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Tuesday, 8 Mar 2016 at 10:57am

That dip doesnt look as exiting as it did a few days ago... Still should get fairly good "stock" surf for the event.... I still pine for the old gatta, where Greeny was real close to the rocks and quite protected from the ese, and kirra was semi clean in the same conditions.... It would totally open up the comps options when ese....

And on another weather pov, maybe a belated late wet season burst for northern Australia...

batfink's picture
batfink's picture
batfink Tuesday, 8 Mar 2016 at 12:17pm

Been an interesting summer for weather watchers SD.

Sydney currently into day 20 or more of days not getting below 20 degree minimums, or something like that, longest spell on record and days more to come.

Humidity levels in Sydney unbelievable. This would be bad for late Jan/early Feb, but we're now up to mid March before we are likely to get a break from it.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Tuesday, 8 Mar 2016 at 1:42pm

It'd be interesting if data was at hand for the last strong el nino re' sydney

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Tuesday, 8 Mar 2016 at 3:54pm

'Simulate' was supposed to be Similar, Like your snail trail Sheepio....;)

May I add, we have had a great deal of rain up here in the Hinterland, pretty much every night and during the day for the last week and half.

Oh no the mould, the furry forest, attached with it's mozzies are around again.

Out comes the 'Clove Oil' and the Aeroguard.......

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Tuesday, 8 Mar 2016 at 11:57pm

lol.... I know what you meant anyways bro...... BTW, that new cal dip is till on...... Could be a curve ball thrown in too via a nsw coastal trough and strong high...... Might start with an east swell, then if that little new cal set up moves sw and combines with the trough and high, you might have swell from the se.....
As I've said all along, something is on the brew..... Finer details should become more evident in the next 36 hours...

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Wednesday, 9 Mar 2016 at 8:05am

All 3 models aligning pretty well this morning. Quiky/WSL must be happy looking at that.

My guess is they'll start Sunday in less than ideal wind conditions and run through til mid next week.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 9 Mar 2016 at 8:10am