Extended run of small surf.. nooooo!

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Monday 29th February)

Best Days: Nothing great throughout the forecast period but there'll be small peaky beachies most days. Thurs looks OK at this stage, Saturday probably the pick with a slightly stronger E'ly pulse. Nothing worth rearranging the diary for though.

Recap: What a weekend. The big question is though - was Friday’s forecast accurate? In my eyes, some parts were, and some parts were not.

But the take home message (gusty S/SE winds, large swells, suitable only to protected points) was spot on for Saturday. And Sunday did see a reinforcing E'ly swell across SE Qld that certainly provided some of the amazing fantasy lineups seen across the Gold Coast in many years ('fantasy' being the quality of the surf, and also the chances of actually catching a wave without anyone dropping in).

It would appear that Snapper Rocks also hasn’t suffered too much from sand erosion either, which is great news for the upcoming Quiksilver Pro - as long as there’s swell…

But in short, Saturday morning dawned to reveal a temporary lag between swells, with Friday’s large pulse on the way out and Saturday’s new swell yet to properly show. The Sunshine Coast built in size throughout the day, with the Noosa points offering one of the best days in years whilst exposed beaches pushed upwards of 8-10ft at times (though these open stretches were terribly wind affected and unsurfable). The Gold and Tweed Coasts saw large waves throughout Saturday though it seemed to peak a little smaller (6-8ft) however some 10ft+ sets were reported from Byron down to Yamba in the victory-at-sea conditions. Smaller but still sizeable surf then played out across the Mid North Coast.

Into Sunday, and wave heights managed 5-6ft across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW with marginally smaller surf south of Yamba, and the southerly flow eased enough to allow more locations to come into play. An easing trend occurred throughout the day, but it dropped more noticeably overnight where we’ve been left with weak 2-3ft leftovers across SE Qld, and a few bigger waves at swell magnets south of the border for today. A major contrast to the weekend’s incredible surf.


No, this surfcam screengrab has NOT been Photoshopped. Sunday morning's incredible neverending lineup at the Superbank.

This week (Mar 1st - 4th)

No major swells expected this week, and local winds will be variable tending onshore, so surface conditions won’t be terribly flash either.

The E’ly swell from TC Winston is almost completely gone now so we’re relying on a couple of small, lacklustre pulses of energy. A minor southerly swell form a Southern Ocean front is pushing across Northern NSW right now but there’s no major size in it. Expect a small mix of average surf across Northern NSW on Tuesday, with not much happening north of the border. Winds will be moderate to fresh SE, possibly lighter and more SW early. Really, you shouldn't waste much time looking for waves on Tuesday.

A second S’ly swell will push across Northern NSW on Wednesday, generated by the tail end of the frontal passage across the lower south-eastern Tasman Sea yesterday and today, but again - this system wasn’t very well aligned so only south swell magnets south of Byron will really see any value. These exposed locations should see occasional 3ft sets but it’ll be smaller elsewhere due to the direction, and I doubt SE Qld will will see any love at all, once again thanks to the swell direction.

Also in the mix for much of the coming week is a small mid-range SE swell, generated by a moderately strengthening ridge through the central and northern Tasman Sea. Usually, these swells produce small peaky beach breaks around 2-3ft max at open stretches, but the low periods means it’ll be quite susceptible to tidal variations, and with local winds expected to trend moderate onshore throughout the days (following isolated periods of light variable winds early mornings), surface conditions won’t be amazing. 

As there is no swell front and corresponding trend for these kinds of patterns, we can simply expect the surf to ebb and flow all week. The models estimate that Thursday may see the biggest surf from this pattern but it’s not worth holding your breath for. We probably won’t see much action across the outer Qld points either; there won’t be enough oomph in the swell for anything notable (there should however be some sort of small rideable wave through the second half of the week).

Aim for an exposed beach and you’ll pick up something small and wobbly but make sure you’ve got a high volume board. 

This weekend (Mar 5th - 6th)

Nothing major for the weekend. At this stage our swell windows will probably be devoid of any signifiant weather systems so the most likely outcome is peaky beach breaks with light variable winds.

The only synoptic system I’ll be keeping a close eye on Wednesday for, is the eastward migrating high pressure system in the eastern Tasman Sea that’s expected to strengthen a modest E/SE fetch just north of New Zealand’s North Island through Wednesday and Thursday, thanks to a small trough to the north providing a useful squeeze. 

Although this fetch will be located further away that the currently developing fetch (supplying our long-lived, if somewhat small and uninteresting trade swell), the stronger winds within this fetch may compensate somewhat. 

So at this stage, whilst I don’t think it’ll produce any major size increase - arriving on Saturday, and easing slowly through the day and into Sunday - the quality of the surf should be a little better with the larger wavelength helping the swell to focus into the coast with more strength. Set waves should hold in and around the 2-3ft mark at most open beaches at the height of the swell on Saturday, it'll be very inconsistent at times but swell magnets south of Byron may pick up a few bigger sets at times.

As for surf quality - early indications are light and variable breezes early, tending onshore throughout the days. Let’s take a closer look on Wednesday.

Next week (Mar 7th onwards)

There’s a suggestion that the trades will broaden and slowly strength from this weekend onwards, stretching from the Coral Sea through to the South Pacific south-east of Fiji. 

This suggests a small to moderate but useful trade swell for South East Queensland and Northern NSW (at a minimum) developing for much of next week and into the following weekend - no major size but plenty of action for the beaches and outer points. 

Let’s ballpark wave heights in the 3ft range for much of the week with a day or two nudging slightly higher than this. More in Wednesday’s updated notes. 

Comments

bruzzz's picture
bruzzz's picture
bruzzz Monday, 29 Feb 2016 at 7:36pm

amazing surf last few weeks... totally surfed out. a couple of days to rest won't be too bad, just a couple though.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 29 Feb 2016 at 7:54pm

finally get to do some rockfishing

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 29 Feb 2016 at 7:56pm

Just a recap: Summer started with a week long long range E swell and finished with the 2weeks plus of swell from Winston/Tatiana. in between was swell from every conceivable angle. pretty well called on this stretch.

gtkimber's picture
gtkimber's picture
gtkimber Monday, 29 Feb 2016 at 10:03pm

Got the confidence back on the Saturday swell at moffatts. 6-8ft early morning before the high tide. Plenty of waves for the numbers

NickT's picture
NickT's picture
NickT Wednesday, 2 Mar 2016 at 11:05am

Hi GT

I was the guy out in the grey singlet and white boardies, there was only about 6 people in the water. It was fun and then, when the tide came in a little more the waves started to line up better, two very fun surfs!

shoredump's picture
shoredump's picture
shoredump Monday, 29 Feb 2016 at 10:09pm

So the way I see it, is the superbank is today's measuring stick, and if today doesn't count cause it's 2 foot and uninspiring, then we just experienced a 19 day run of swell. Pretty sure it started on the tenth, going through Ben's recaps.

groovie's picture
groovie's picture
groovie Tuesday, 1 Mar 2016 at 6:57am

Did'nt really get to any GR8 heights down here on the mid nth coast! peaked with the S/E onshores on Sat about mid day! Friday arvo showed some potential & Sunday was the day for the winds but the swell had moderated somewhat! all in all a bit frustrating when expectations were for a one in ten years east swell event that did'nt really eventuate down here!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 1 Mar 2016 at 8:32am

Had plenty of reports of maxing surf on the Mid North Coast from several reliable sources - in some cases, reporting that the surf was too big (photo below taken around 1pm Friday, well before the swell peaked later that day).

As for "expectations were for a one in ten years east swell event that did'nt really eventuate down here" - let's put this into perspective. My exact words were:

(Forecast Notes Monday 22nd): "But let’s not kid ourselves - the ‘little less size’ from the second solution is still much bigger than any easterly swell seen in these waters in several years. The first solution could result in a once-in-a-decade kind of swell event."

(Forecaster Notes Wednesday 24th): "This will certainly be one of the biggest easterly groundswells in many years."

So, last Monday I flagged two possibilities, depending on how the models tracked over the coming days: "the biggest swell in several years", and "a once-in-a-decade kind of swell event".

On Wednesday's updated forecast, I removed the once-in-a-decade call, and held firm with this being "one of the biggest easterly groundswells in many years."

I think that on the balance, this was a correct call. I am quite sure that we haven't seen an easterly groundswell of this magnitude for quite some time.

And to further qualify this - I wasn't calling this the biggest "swell" in many years (or the decade) I was referencing this as being an unusually large 'easterly' groundswell. We frequently see large southerly swells of a similar size (in Northern NSW, anyway), and ECLs have the capability to deliver even larger short/mid range swells to localised areas.

But a large long period E'ly swell originating from a westward tracking tropical cyclone - it's a rare event in these waters.

Happy to be corrected otherwise.

Dan K's picture
Dan K's picture
Dan K Tuesday, 1 Mar 2016 at 12:19pm

Can't fault the forecasting one bit. I'm not sure what Groovie was watching but Forster bar was 4ft early on and the later than expected arrival of the leading edge (which you also predicted) started to kick in around 10am and peaked around 3pm with easy 8ft+ on the bar by that stage with plenty of energy. Definitely cleaner and more defined on Friday afternoon and friendlier on Sunday but from all reporting it was evident that Saturday was a write off unless you could find those sheltered corners. I found it all pretty spot on.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 1 Mar 2016 at 12:36pm

Thanks mate. Appreciate the feedback and verification.

I totally understand that not every swell provides a uniform size range to every single coasts, however I had excellent first hand reports from the Mid North Coast that was reporting some seriously large waves late Friday. Couple that in with what I was seeing here - plus some of the feedback we had from southern NSW - and I'm pretty happy with the forecast overall.

Anyway, TC Winston was certainly a good learning experience at my end, which is the main thing - every weather system throws an unusual curveball in our direction and this particular event delivered some insightful outcomes. 

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 1 Mar 2016 at 9:36am

Totally fair call.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Tuesday, 1 Mar 2016 at 11:38am

.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Tuesday, 1 Mar 2016 at 12:10pm

Yeah a fair call..... At its peak it was 8 to 10 foot with bigger bombs.... A lot of people got sucked into hawaiian realms early in the piece.... It definitely wasn't 10 to 12 foot plus..... It it sure the hell wasn't 12 to 15......
Anyway... it's gone.... "Stop livin' in the past maaan"..... lol

hathorn's picture
hathorn's picture
hathorn Tuesday, 1 Mar 2016 at 12:12pm

Pretty happy with the way it played out on the SC. Scored great solid waves Friday morning until just before lunch (was very late for work even after booking in some flexi time). Saturday was limited to some novelty waves, but still fun. On Sunday, the wind was slightly west of south which allowed surfing of some spots that were more open to the remaining swell - was slightly wobbly but the second and third waves of the set were pretty clean.

Time for some fishing now.

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Tuesday, 1 Mar 2016 at 7:07pm

So Freeride was friday the best day/morning down at the OX!

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Wednesday, 2 Mar 2016 at 7:40pm

Ok then, I know now, not to ask you any questions AT ALL!

Cheers Princess.....

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Wednesday, 2 Mar 2016 at 7:47pm

Gone fishin

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Wednesday, 2 Mar 2016 at 8:09pm

Finishing!

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Wednesday, 2 Mar 2016 at 9:23pm

From all reports, Friday was the best day at the point.

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Wednesday, 2 Mar 2016 at 9:31pm

Thought so LD;)

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 3 Mar 2016 at 2:03pm

sorry Welly, didn't see this.

Fri had moments, as did Sat. I think Fri arvo was best.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Wednesday, 2 Mar 2016 at 3:14pm

27th feb I wrote;

" long term, quickie will be praying to huey that the low above new cal around the 13th eventuates...."

Well, long term charts still have something brewing around there, with a fairly strong high ridging against it..... So still a glimmer of hope the comp' wont be totally void of meaningful surf..... It sure isn't in the winston category..... More of a dip/trough... But looks like a decent fetch.... So it's a region worth watching over the next few days... Time will tell..

(ps - interesting that remnants of winston actually went nw up the qld coast.. What a bizarre week that was - also now ex winston may help establish trough from FNQ to new Cal, which in turn may create the possible low around the 13th.... So the ghost of winnie continues to shape the next week..)

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 3 Mar 2016 at 1:41pm

Winnie the Pooh!!!

the chase's picture
the chase's picture
the chase Wednesday, 2 Mar 2016 at 3:20pm

The surf has been so good so hard get inspired to get back to the norm.