Building swells with a dynamic period ahead for all coasts

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Monday 21st December)

Best Days: Tues/Wed: fun trade swell peaking Tues easing Wed, plus a new SE and S'ly swell for Wed in Northern NSW, with mainly light winds and sea breezes in the north and developing southerlies across the Mid North Coast. Thurs onwards: slowly building swells from the SE, E and E/NE, possibly sizeable by the weekend and likely to remain quite active into next week. 

Recap: Despite a slow easing trend over the weekend, most open beaches delivered good waves. Saturday morning was still a healthy 2ft+ across most Gold/Tweed Coast beaches with bigger sets on the Sunshine Coast (though a little smaller south of Ballina) and the size drop into Sunday was minor enough to not cause any inconvenience. The short range, peaky nature of the swell favoured the beach breaks quite well and conditions were clean through the mornings ahead of obligatory sea breezes. Today we’ve seen a small, steady increase in new swell across the region though it’s a smidge below expectations right now (sets between 2ft and almost 3ft at open beaches in the north, though lacking some strength). However, model guidance suggests the peak is not due until later today or early tomorrow, so let’s just hope it’s lagging behind. Northerly winds are again freshening across the region. 

This week (December 22nd - 25th)

Assuming the model guidance is generally on target - and there’s no reason to think otherwise - we should see a peak tomorrow in east swell.

It has however slightly downgraded wave heights since Friday so I am going to correspondingly pull back my Tuesday estimates from 3ft+ to 3ft on the Gold Coast (at open beaches), 3-4ft to 3ft+ on the Sunshine Coast (again, open beaches - obviously smaller on the inner points), and 2-3ft across the Northern NSW coast down to about Coffs, where it’ll be a little smaller through to Seal Rocks. However we should see some additional NE windswell across the Mid North Coast thanks to the recent local airstream.

The good news for Tuesday is that a stalled trough off the Southern NSW coast is expected to instigate a weak pressure gradient across Northern NSW and SE Qld, so we should see light variable winds early then light to moderate afternoon sea breezes. Conditions probably won’t be perfect (i.e. some leftover lump and bump in places) but it’ll be well worth a paddle.

If you’re in the far southern regions - i.e. south of Port Macquarie - keep an eye out for the possibility of gusty SE winds that’ll develop on the southern flank of the trough line, which is expected to be around Forster or thereabouts, but may extend northwards later in the day. 

On Wednesday, the current trade swell will be easing but we’ve got some reinforcement inbound for open Northern NSW beaches with good southerly exposure, courtesy of two sources. 

Firstly, the stalled trough off Southern NSW today will consolidate a modest SE fetch through Tuesday - thanks to a developing high in the southern Tasman Sea - that should generate some useful swell in the 2-3ft range (we’ll actually see this swell reaching the Mid North Coast later Tuesday). 

Additionally, a deep low that formed south of Tasmania on Sunday has generated a small long period S’ly swell that’ll provide very inconsistent 2-3ft sets at south swell magnets. Both of these swell will not favour SE Qld though, due to their direction and orientation. So expect smaller surf north of the border on Wednesday.

In general, winds are looking to be mainly light and variable on Wednesday with sea breezes however the trough line near Forster is expected to extend a narrow finger of S’ly winds across the Mid North Coast that may reach as far north as Yamba or even Ballina during the day, though with strongest winds in the south. Keep an eye on the local obs to see how it’s progressing as the models are usually pretty poor at capturing these events in advance.

The high in the southern Tasman Sea is then expected to slowly muscle up through the rest of the week, along with a building secondary ridge through the southern Coral Sea as an active monsoon pattern approaches from the north-west, also likely developing a tropical cyclone in the Gulf of Carpentaria prior to Christmas. 

The upshot of this is that we’re looking at a mix of slowly building SE thru’ E'ly and eventually E/NE swell trains through Xmas Eve (Thursday) and Xmas Day (Friday). No great size is expected, and the synoptic airstream will be moderate onshore, but there’s likely to be periods of slack winds in and around this time that’ll lead to good surf across various outer points in Northern NSW and SE Qld. 

As a rough guesstimate, by close of business Friday we should see set waves somewhere around 3-4ft in Northern NSW, and 2-3ft in SE Qld (the E/NE swell impacting Queensland will probably kick in over the weekend). I’ll fine tune the specifics in more detail in Wednesday’s notes, but the good news is that there’ll be fun waves most days. 

This weekend (December 26th - 27th)

As suggested in Friday’s notes, we are looking at a confluence of dynamic weather systems in our near swell window in the time period following Christmas. 

At this stage the models are still a little hazy on what might eventuate, as there are several notable systems at play - a broad, moist easterly airstream across much of the Northern Tasman Sea, a developing monsoon pattern through the northern Coral Sea, and an active coastal trough across Southern NSW that’s currently expected to drive a vigorous southerly change across the East Coast through Saturday and Sunday

Normally I’m not one to sit on the fence, but with such a dynamic mix of ingredients being added to the system, it’s simply too hard to pin down specifics at this early stage. And it will probably take quite a few days for things to line up too.

But, there is steadily increasing confidence that not only will there be building swells all weekend from several directions, that some locations are looking at the onset of solid, potentially large waves at times. Let’s take a closer look on Wednesday.


Our surf model is estimating 5-6ft E/NE swell across the Sunshine Coast on Sunday

Next week (December 28th onwards)

As per the weekend’s notes, it’s hard to gauge any specifics in next week’s surf trend apart from a strong likelihood that there’ll be a lot of it, from several directions (lots of SE swell across Northern NSW, tending more E'ly throughout SE Qld) and with plenty of size and strength at times. I’ll have a better idea over the coming days. 

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 21 Dec 2015 at 5:35pm

Hot diggity dog, I love this time of year up here. 

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Monday, 21 Dec 2015 at 6:06pm

Your first full summer in the SEQ area Ben ?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 21 Dec 2015 at 6:47pm

Did three years on the Goldy from '04-'06.

Anthony 01's picture
Anthony 01's picture
Anthony 01 Monday, 21 Dec 2015 at 6:01pm

Hey Ben, was wondering if you knew what the surf on the Goldy would be like in the new year from Jan 3rd onwards?

Cheers

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 21 Dec 2015 at 6:48pm

Way too far out at this stage.

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Monday, 21 Dec 2015 at 6:24pm

Hope santa brings the good for us.

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Monday, 21 Dec 2015 at 6:34pm

Like Fr said the models have bumped significantly, especially since this morning;)

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Monday, 21 Dec 2015 at 6:37pm

Except the models on here are not showing it at all Ben?
Only on your new forecast graph notes......?????????

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 21 Dec 2015 at 6:50pm

Yeah latest model run (updated after I published these notes) have thrown a few curveballs.. Not surprising under this patten - needs a few more days to sort itself out.

tonybarber's picture
tonybarber's picture
tonybarber Monday, 21 Dec 2015 at 7:58pm

Heh Ben... Thought Autumn is the preferred time for the Goldie ?
There was talk of a cyclone in the NT. No good for Qld but maybe a bit of water for Longreach ?.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 21 Dec 2015 at 7:59pm

Lot of variation in the model runs, pretty standard as they try and resolve a very complex and unstable monsoonal pattern. As Ben said, exciting time to be watching the charts.

mitchvg's picture
mitchvg's picture
mitchvg Monday, 21 Dec 2015 at 8:23pm

I know the old, tighter the isobars stronger the winds, but in the tropics you can have slack gradients with 15-20 kt winds. The 'stronger in the tropics' rule doesn't always help either, especially with direction.

Any good rules of thumb for the tropics and MSLP charts

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Monday, 21 Dec 2015 at 9:23pm

yeah all right,and thanks for yer input.and thanks for knocking out sheepdog and what he had to say,this time of year.knowledge that came deep and from a working background in the region.good on yers.Not against Ben at all.but it was good having a genuine input from a contributer who had a working long term background in coral sea and tropical pacific systems.knowledge that does'nt come easy.

Pettex's picture
Pettex's picture
Pettex Monday, 21 Dec 2015 at 10:30pm

Ringo was all over it years ago. It don't come easy.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 21 Dec 2015 at 10:32pm

Feck. Latest access G looks sensational!!!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 22 Dec 2015 at 6:52am

Doesn't it. It's been running a very optimistic line for days now but that latest run looks to solidify the pattern, and with GFS now coming on board with the Gulf system moving back inland it also progs a south pac system being cradled by high pressure. Looks like the year will end with a bang.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Tuesday, 22 Dec 2015 at 7:31am

Latest run this morning isn't as tasty. EC and gfs not interested whatsoever so I'm thinking she's unlikely to come to fruition.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 22 Dec 2015 at 6:47am

What happened to sheepdog? Who knocked him out?

mitchvg's picture
mitchvg's picture
mitchvg Tuesday, 22 Dec 2015 at 10:42pm

He more spat the dummy again, after he couldn't help himself in here again. Did say something about Gulf TCs but... I think he's surfing more as well anyway.

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Tuesday, 22 Dec 2015 at 9:07am

Totally off topic here I am looking to go for a holiday to maldives start off next year never been. Has any one stayed at hudhuranfushi-island-resort ??? Dont be shy Don seen your detailed surf forcasting on Maldives any advice greatly appreciated.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Wednesday, 23 Dec 2015 at 8:05am

Is that the old Lohis? If so I have t stayed there but heard it's ok. Lefthander straight out the front is a good wave I believe and only guests staying there can surf it.

If the swells small then you will be making treks to the swell magnets so that will cost you more so factor that it also. What time of year you looking at going?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 23 Dec 2015 at 8:11am

Little dusty this morning Don, few errors in that above post :p

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Wednesday, 23 Dec 2015 at 2:09pm

You can thank updating to iOS 9 for that Craig. It thinks it's smarter than me when typing shit.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 22 Dec 2015 at 9:38am

Surf was a bit meh this morning. Clean on the surface but quite inconsistent sets, and the power setting seemed to be a notch down from Saturday morning's energy - just enough to make it a little harder going to find anything worthwhile. Scored a few decent little bowls but nothing to write home about.

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Wednesday, 23 Dec 2015 at 1:37pm

Yeah thats the place Don. There are saying maxium 45 surfers You have to stay there to surf the left out the front. Looking at going around march/ April not cheap still looking at options atm. Bali last year was over crowed.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Wednesday, 23 Dec 2015 at 2:08pm

March April is still very early in the season for the North Male atolls.

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Wednesday, 23 Dec 2015 at 7:27pm

Might have to put it off a few months. Its a real gamble gota book ahead and it's not cheap just hoping there is going to be surf when you arrive. Thanks Don.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 24 Dec 2015 at 8:19am

Cylinders ask Ben for my email address and send me an email and we can discuss offline.