Fun surf Tuesday; small intermittent swells for the rest of the week

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Monday 16th November)

Best Days: Tues: fun SE swell, though wind affected on the Sunny Coast. Best in Northern NSW with light winds. Wed: early easing swells with light winds. Thurs/Fri: small south swell with early NW winds. Sat/Sun/Mon: steadily building S'ly swells, possibly getting quite solid in Northern NSW (only small in SE Qld).

Recap: Very little surf across all regions on Saturday, but Sunday saw a late kick in short range SE swell that provided 3ft+ sets at south swell magnets south of Byron, and smaller surf up into SE Qld under a workable S/SE breeze. This swell persisted into this morning, though has eased slowly throughout the day. Early SW winds are now fresh SE along most coasts. A new SE swell expected for tomorrow has yet to show any signs of arrival. 

This week (Tuesday 17th - Friday 20th)

The current fresh SE winds across the coast will ease into Tuesday as the coastal trough responsible for Sunday’s southerly change (and today’s winds) contracts to the north. We’ll still see a lingering SE flow about SE Qld, but winds should remain light and variable in Northern NSW, and the southern Gold Coast should see at least a period of light SW winds in the morning.

A trough in the Northern Tasman Sea is working in conjunction with an advancing high pressure system in the southwest, to maintain a fresh SE fetch through the central Tasman. This is generating a new SE swell that’s due to arrive this evening, before easing in size throughout Tuesday.

The models have slightly pulled back the strength and orientation of this fetch over the last few days so I have made a minor downwards adjustment to wave heights for Tuesday, and therefore we probably won’t see a lot of residual swell into Wednesday morning, but there should still be some fun options across exposed beaches before winds pick up from the north.

As for other swell sources - there aren’t many for the rest of the week. A polar low migrating through our far southern swell window over the weekend has generated a new S’ly swell that should light up south swell magnets in Northern NSW from later Wednesday (Mid North Coast) into Thursday (North Coast) - but I can’t see much more than an inconsistent 2-3ft from it. This swell will probably maintain inconsistent energy into Friday morning before easing throughout the day. 

Southeast QLD: Tuesday’s new swell should create some OK waves about the outer points on the Gold Coast, but with a lingering SE breeze I fear there may not be quite enough size for the Sunshine Coast to properly benefit, as those sheltered locations will be very small. Most open beaches are looking at 1.5-2ft sets from this source, some outer points and south swell magnets on the Gold Coast may pick up occasional 2-3ft sets but on the whole it’s not looking quite as strong as Friday’s models indicated.

This SE swell will then ease through Wednesday and Thursday, with light winds gradually swinging around to the north. The small southerly groundswell expected on Thursday and Friday probably won’t show up anywhere except for exposed south swell magnets (early NW winds should be favourable for these spots too, if you’re after a small wave), but don't expect much more than a foot or two. In general, surf size is expected to be very small in SE Qld to finish the week.

Northern NSW: Tuesday looks fun with 3ft+ of peaky SE swell at exposed south facing beaches and mainly light variable winds. There may be a few lumpy leftovers from today’s onshore but it should improve throughout the day. 

On Wednesday, winds will gradually freshen from the north as the SE swell fades (early 2-3ft sets at south facing beaches, smaller elsewhere) however it’ll be worth keeping an eye on south swell magnets across the Mid North Coast, with a small new long period swell expected for the afternoon

As for Thursday and Friday, we’re expecting moderate northerly winds in general but there’s a decent chance for a period of NW winds in the morning, and this will be the best time to capitalise on the lingering, infrequent southerly groundswell. Set waves probably won’t show much more than 2-3ft at south swell magnets, but they will be the only real options for keen surfers. 

This weekend (Saturday 21st - Sunday 22nd)

Lots of southerly swell developing into the weekend and throughout the longer term.

A decent front pushing through the lower Tasman Sea overnight Thursday and into Friday will kick up a fresh south swell for Saturday morning (Mid North Coast), arriving in the Far North after lunch however the swell direction probably won’t favour SE Qld away from exposed south swell magnets (sorry!). 

Fortunately, an even stronger frontal progression is expected to develop behind this - around Saturday in the southern Tasman Sea - and although the storm track and resulting swell direction will be similar to Saturday’s swell (arriving throughout Sunday), the larger wave heights should allow for some small late waves across the outer points in SE Qld.

At this stage, south facing beaches in Northern NSW are looking at 3-4ft surf building throughout Saturday, however Sunday’s swell could reach 5-6ft surf if current model guidance holds true. Obviously, wave heights will be smaller at semi-exposed points and protected beaches so let’s fine tune this outlook on Wednesday.

As for SE Qld, expect very small contentions for Saturday and most of Sunday, with a chance for a kick in new S’ly swell late Sunday afternoon to 2ft+ across the outer points. 

Next week (Monday 23rd onwards)

Looks like the Southern Ocean storm track will be a consistent supplier of southerly swell energy into the long term too, with plenty of weather systems lining up into next week. As such, the outlook for the first half of next week continues to favour Northern NSW for surf, with only small, highly refracted southerly energy for SE Qld. More on this in Wednesday’s notes. 

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 17 Nov 2015 at 12:32pm

Coffs looking like a barrel of fun right now.




freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 17 Nov 2015 at 1:27pm

nice little bonus swell for Nov. Been a consistent Spring with very few northerly episodes.
Most unexpected considering the major El Nino underway.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Wednesday, 18 Nov 2015 at 2:27pm

Think you spoke WAY too soon Steve with the "very few northerly's" comment!!! :'(

mcsc's picture
mcsc's picture
mcsc Tuesday, 17 Nov 2015 at 4:20pm

fark all swell for Nov. Been a shite Spring with lots of northerly episodes. Completely expected considering the major El Nino underway ;-) -Sunshine Coast-

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Tuesday, 17 Nov 2015 at 6:00pm

Second that its been shithouse. the last 6 months really.

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Tuesday, 17 Nov 2015 at 7:53pm

Be nice to see some cyclone activitie before the years out.

mcsc's picture
mcsc's picture
mcsc Tuesday, 17 Nov 2015 at 8:00pm

Few beachies about tmrw morn cylinder85 me thinks

NickT's picture
NickT's picture
NickT Tuesday, 17 Nov 2015 at 9:47pm

Geez some sad faces there lads. Up until about three weeks ago we have been scoring pumping beach breaks every week throughout winter almost right from Feb-March. One of the better winters I can remember. No major swells but just consistent 2-4ft surf. Fingers crossed for some juice on Sunday!

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Wednesday, 18 Nov 2015 at 7:12am

Like to know where you have been scoring these pumping beach breaks.I Haven't seen a clean 4ft wave in some time on Gold Coast. I am sure I have missed a few due to work.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 18 Nov 2015 at 7:50am

Mate, you gotta jump in the car and do some miles. I've had a great Spring on the Tweed Coast. Surfing four or five days a week, plenty of unreal sessions. Just about to head out now :)

linez's picture
linez's picture
linez Wednesday, 18 Nov 2015 at 9:00am

Agreed, definitely not the worst spring

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Wednesday, 18 Nov 2015 at 9:04am

Yeah your right. It's nice not to have to travel though. Also getting back from a surf trip from Bali easy to feel unmotivated with surf quality.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Wednesday, 18 Nov 2015 at 12:53pm

Beautiful morning, some fun little 1-2fters on the incoming tide. I wasn't the only one with a bank to myself too. Rather pleasant start to the day.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 18 Nov 2015 at 12:59pm

Same here Sprout but a little bigger, shoulder high plus for me this morning, light offshore winds, unreal peaky A-frames, warm crystal clear water, and just three of us spread out over 400m (with the other kilometres of beachies completely empty). Size dropped slowly during the session though and the northerly perked up too. Early morning was the pick.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Wednesday, 18 Nov 2015 at 3:49pm

Mate that sounds perfect! Maybe everyone else just assumed it would be shit again and stayed in bed haha.

mcsc's picture
mcsc's picture
mcsc Wednesday, 18 Nov 2015 at 4:20pm

Spring sucked but I didn't miss it. Was fun little surf. Here's hoping for a good summer for the sunny coast!

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Wednesday, 18 Nov 2015 at 2:27pm

EC indicating something interesting in the Coral Sea!!!

Gary G's picture
Gary G's picture
Gary G Wednesday, 18 Nov 2015 at 4:50pm

This chat is interesting and all but can you tell me what the forecast is for Schoolies week? Well groomed? Freshly formed peaks as far as the eye can see?

Uncle Gaz is waxing up the gun(s) and planning his annual trip North and I'm hoping this old dog can teach a few new tricks to the Young 'uns!