Fun Thursday; plenty of S'ly swell from Friday through the weekend

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 17th June)

Best Days: Thurs: Fun E/NE thru' NE swell at open beaches (biggest in the south) with mainly offshore winds. Sat/Sun: plenty of S/SE swell with improving conditions (a little dicey Sat though).

Recap: Plenty of S/SE tending SE swell on Tuesday with set waves still pushing 3-5ft across exposed south facing beaches in Northern NSW, before easing today. Wave heights were much smaller in SE Qld, just a couple of feet. We’ve seen a new E/NE tending NE swell build today with 2-3ft sets across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW, and slightly bigger waves across the Mid North Coast.

This week (June 18 - 19)

The synoptic chart has a broad trough developing across the southern Tasman Sea. Within the trough line, two centres of low pressure are expected to form over the next 36 hours - one low will form off the South Coast and track steadily E/SE to be positioned near New Zealand’s South Island by late Thursday; a second low will form off the Mid North Coast early Friday and move E/NE into the northern Tasman Sea. 

Across the southern flank of this broad trough, fresh to strong southerly winds will develop through Thursday and are expected to generate a new south swell for the entire NSW coast. Prior to this we’ll see a fun round of peaky surf for much of Thursday, but slowly easing E/NE thru’ NE swell across open beaches during the morning with set waves in the 2-3ft range (a little bigger across the Mid North Coast). Light offshore winds are expected in most regions for the most part, so conditions should be very good.

New S/SE swell off the southern Tasman Low (off NZ's South Island) isn’t expected to arrive until Friday, in which we’ll see a steady upwards trend all day - wave heights may be smaller at first light, especially in the Far North and across SE Qld, ahead of a peak into the afternoon - but the main concern around Friday are the local winds as the low develops off the North Coast.

Winds will initially be W/SW thru’ SW at most locations but gusty S’ly winds are expected to spread from the Mid North Coast (mid-late morning) through to the Far North Coast (early-mid afternoon) and then north of the border (mid-late afternoon). This will eventually wipe out surface conditions at exposed locations, and it’s a shame as the S/SE groundswell is expected to peak around the same time, somewhere in the 4-6ft range at Northern NSW’s south facing beaches. As such you'll have to tuck into a sheltered location for the best waves on Friday, depending on the timing of the change - if it's stalled in any way then we could see a tidy window of strong, quality waves. I'm really not too sure which way it'll eventuate.

In SE Qld, we’re going to see much less size from the (slowly building) S/SE groundswell so even though the late southerly change will be more manageable here, surf size may only be small, consisting mainly of a small residual E/NE swell in the 2ft range at open beaches, then some small late new S/SE energy of a similar size at most beaches (I don’t think we’ll see an appreciable kick in short range swell off the North Coast low until after dinnertime). However, if the models speed things up I’ll update my thoughts in the comment section below.

This weekend (June 20 - 21)

So, it’s looking like a busy weekend of S/SE swell with Saturday expected to see the most size. Exposed south facing beaches in Northern NSW should see 4-6ft sets in the morning, with smaller waves elsewhere due to the swell direction, and a lingering fresh S’ly airstream may swing SW in a few locations early morning if we’re lucky: protected locations and semi-exposed points will be your best bet on Saturday. The North Coast low is expected to quickly depart our swell window so we’re unlikely to see any major size from this source. 

In SE Qld, the S/SE swell will deliver much smaller surf on Saturday, around 2ft+ at most beaches however south swell magnets should see bigger surf in the 4ft range at times. Semi-exposed points won’t see a great deal of size but with the general SW tending S’ly flow they’ll be your best point of contact.

On Sunday, a high pressure system developing across the southern Tasman Sea is expected to create light variable winds across most of Northern NSW, as well as extending a weak ridge through the Coral Sea that’ll maintain some form of S’ly breeze across SE Qld beaches (lighter SW early though). Wave heights will trend downwards from Saturday, early 3-4ft sets at south facing beaches in Northern NSW (smaller elsewhere) and only 1-2ft across SE Qld beaches (bigger at south swell magnets). However with better winds on hand Sunday should be the pick of the weekend. 

Next week (June 22 onwards)

Generally easing surf is expected early next week with a high pressure system moving into occupy the Tasman Sea.

We’ve got a couple of possible swell sources for next week though: the North Coast low looks like it’ll linger within a broad troughy feature across the Northern Tasman Sea for a few days, and may briefly re-intensify into something of a swell-producing nature around Monday. This also includes a second, more significant fetch developing NE of New Zealand. However, the models are a little flaky on both scenarios right now (with the second fetch in particular being shunted into the swell shadow of the North Island) so let's give it a few days before discussing possibilities.

Elsewhere, we’re looking at a southerly change later Tuesday that may deliver some short range southerly for Northern NSW energy mid-week. And a series of strong fronts below the continent should keep exposed south facing beaches from becoming too small. However mid-next week is still quite some time away so let’s wait and see how the models pan out on Friday.

Comments

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Wednesday, 17 Jun 2015 at 6:51pm

" This also includes a second, more significant fetch developing NE of New Zealand. However, the models are a little flaky"

And believe it or not, that possible system is associated with the trough/front currently moving off the east coast now.....

You can see it developing here....
http://www.metvuw.com/forecast/forecast.php?type=rain&region=swp&noofdays=8

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Wednesday, 17 Jun 2015 at 8:29pm

Your All over it looking tasty.

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Wednesday, 17 Jun 2015 at 8:41pm

Well you did call this weather along time ago Sheepio, been a some shit wather the last few days, not what DW said in the last post 17m, wow now thats a shit load of rain eh;)

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Wednesday, 17 Jun 2015 at 10:52pm

Yeah welly we've got a shit se blowin in, and it comes from an angle that gets all the fire wood wet that I've stacked under the back stairwell...... Shit wind..... Most rain here blows in with a nw to sw..... Stairwell protected..... But se here is shit.....

Anyways, won't be all time but waves are waves....... And it's good the farmers out west got a bit of rain...

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 18 Jun 2015 at 10:48am

Some fun 2ft/2ft+ beachies this morning with the very odd set close to 3ft very early on at dawn.

Shame the tide drowned it out after 7am ish!!! :(

tomjoad's picture
tomjoad's picture
tomjoad Thursday, 18 Jun 2015 at 1:47pm

Devo I missed out this morning Don... where (approximately) were you surfing? I know the swell is dropping, will the beaches at the north end of the goldie be worth a dawn raid you reckon?

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Thursday, 18 Jun 2015 at 1:59pm

No go South.

tomjoad's picture
tomjoad's picture
tomjoad Thursday, 18 Jun 2015 at 2:11pm

Ah... if only i didn't have to find myself in an office in Brisbane tomorrow morning. It's a small window of surf opportunity!

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 18 Jun 2015 at 4:13pm

Sorry but I don't kiss and tell locations on public forums.

tomjoad's picture
tomjoad's picture
tomjoad Thursday, 18 Jun 2015 at 4:24pm

Oh gosh, definitely don't kiss me. I barely know you. I wasn't looking for GPS coordinates, just trying to suss if the beaches north of the border will be worth a look-see given the fading swell prior to re-boot over the weekend. I guess I'll have to explore rather than risk exposing state secrets to the 18 people who read the comments (as opposed to the report itself)

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 18 Jun 2015 at 5:04pm

TOS will be worth a looksy tomorrow morning. Feel free to say hi to the 18 people over there tomorrow who have read this!!!! ;)

tomjoad's picture
tomjoad's picture
tomjoad Thursday, 18 Jun 2015 at 5:20pm

haha... there goes the secret spot. If i turn up to a crowd tomorrow, I'll know who to blame!

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 18 Jun 2015 at 5:22pm

Don't blame me, blame the 18 people who read this comment.

tomjoad's picture
tomjoad's picture
tomjoad Thursday, 18 Jun 2015 at 5:23pm

If there are more than 18 people there, I'll be extremely confused...

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Thursday, 18 Jun 2015 at 3:03pm

Magic weather here today. Around 2ft with the odd bigger one. Lots of banks working with a particular one finally coming back to life after a few months. Pic taken around midday on the runout tide, still plenty of fun ones about.

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Thursday, 18 Jun 2015 at 3:22pm

haaha I know that fella fishing, been walking the dog along there the last few weeks.
Good to know the banks are coming back;)
Been way north and banks are showing promise as well.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Thursday, 18 Jun 2015 at 5:07pm

Haha, what are the odds! Got a few little punchy ones further north this afternoon, great weather. And definitely nice to see/hear the sand's forming up in lots of places after that last big storm.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Thursday, 18 Jun 2015 at 5:28pm

Beachies galore; now everybody's happy!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 19 Jun 2015 at 7:20am

Looks like the developing S'ly change will occur later today, so we should see a longer window of favourable winds (especially in the north). The new S'ly swell seems to be pushing up the coast too, with the Crowdy Head buoy showing  plenty of energy and our Coffs cam (south facing) showing new energy too. Could be a nice window of building S'ly swell and good winds in some areas.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 19 Jun 2015 at 10:49am

2ft/2ft+ with the odd freak set close to 3ft at dawn this morning. Longer waits but definitely more punchier this morning with the up in period and lower tide at dawn.

Tide killed it again after 7:30am but and swell seemed to die.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 19 Jun 2015 at 11:07am

Had the same here on the Tweed Coast Don, mainly 2ft with the odd bigger one but perfectly clean with light offshore winds. 

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Friday, 19 Jun 2015 at 11:37am

Ballina was 3-4ft and a few solid ones, but the tide started to make them like mini waimea's; super hollow takeoffs into fat nothings.
There was a period of gold for a while though.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 19 Jun 2015 at 3:32pm

This was a reasonable set.