Building swell from the southern quadrant

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Tuesday 27th January)

Best Days: Most days should have fun small waves across the semi-exposed points of Far Northern NSW and SE Qld. Fri/Sat/Sun: large south swell for exposed spots in Northern NSW, but with a wide range in heights due to the swell direction. Expect very small surf in SE Qld.

Recap: Rapidly improving surf over the weekend as winds became more favourable and the swell slowly eased from the south-east. Wave heights reached a low point on Monday but have built from the SE today in response to a deepening trough across the central Tasman Sea. This is generating small peelers across the semi-exposed points of SE Qld and Far Northern NSW, although winds are out of the eastern quadrant (however, Snapper looks reasonably clean). 

This week (Jan 28 onwards)

No really change expected in the swell department on Wednesday.

This deepening trough currently doesn’t have a lot of strength within our swell window, but it is expected to muscle up over the coming days so we can expect a more prominent increase in size later in the week. For now expect small runners along the semi-exposed points of Far Northern NSW and SE Qld, with fresh and gusty S/SE winds likely to ruin the surf at exposed beaches. 

There are actually two fetches of interest associated with this trough - the S/SE fetch stretching from Tasmanian latitudes up to the southern Coral Sea, and a broader, but weaker E/NE fetch feeding into the trough from the South Pacific side.

The latter fetch probably won’t generate a great deal of size, but given the stronger S/SE component expected through the back half of the week, it’s worth noting as it’ll probably keep protected spots humming with some small lines (that otherwise might miss out due to directional deficiencies of the south swell).

So, as the S/SE fetch strengthens through Wednesday (off the Southern NSW coast), it’ll also continue its slow westward movement, which will ever so slightly push outside of SE Qld’s swell window (bummer!). 

In fact, by Thursday we’ll see a deep Tasman Low off the Far South Coast (roughly east of Bass Strait) and very strong winds are expected to develop around its core, with the low also expected to remain quite stationary. This is a very positive characteristic for the potential of a large, powerful groundswell.

The overall swell trend will be slowly upwards on Thursday - but still affected by fresh S/SE winds in most areas. Despite the swell muscling up a tad I’m concerned that the slight swing in the swell direction (a tad more south) may restrict wave heights north of Byron - so keep your expectations in check, SE Qld surfers. Otherwise, there should be windy options across the points south of the Byron.

As for Friday - it’s a simple matter of up, up up during the day. But the key is: when? 

We’re looking at an arrival across the Mid North Coast early morning, probably reaching the Far North Coast by early afternoon and then SE Qld from mid-afternoon onwards. The swell will have a lot of south its direction, with a large range in wave heights between beaches - easily 6ft+ or more at south facing spots in Northern NSW, but just ~4ft at most open beaches and ~2ft across protected spots. 

In SE Qld, we’ll see anywhere up to 3-4ft+ at (the handful of) exposed south swell magnets, but most of the regular spots (i.e. semi-exposed points) will be lucky to pull in 2ft sets - don’t expect anything at protected points like Noosa.

Anyway, if the model data changes throughout the next few days I’ll update my thoughts in the comments section below. But for now, Friday look like being quite a dynamic day, particular for Northern NSW. Let’s just hope the swell isn’t delayed, otherwise Queensland surfers may miss out on this pulse.

This weekend (Jan 31 - Feb 1)

Friday’s large south swell is expected to hold through much of Saturday, but in fact the low pressure system generating it is currently modelled to push even further inside the swell shadow of southern NSW later this week, which - despite the overall size and strength - could seriously restrict wave size along even the North Coast (and definitely into SE Qld).

Therefore, right now it’s too hard to have confidence in what will happen, because a slight eastward shift in the current model guidance could open up all kinds of new potential for the weekend. 

However with no other swell sources expected (at this stage), we can be confident on the overall trend, and that is: early peak Saturday, easing slowly through the afternoon and through Sunday. If anything, expect even a slightly wider variation in wave heights between exposed south facing spots and sheltered spots, but I’ll review this in more detail on Friday. 

Next week (Feb 2 onwards)

Nothing of major interest for next week - easing south swell for Monday (from the weekend), supplemented by some mid-week refracted southerly swell from a series of migratory fronts and lows well south of the Tasman Sea that probably won’t offer much away from the North Coast’s south swell magnets. 

A couple of cyclones are modelled to form out near Samoa and the Cook Islands later this week, but at this stage they don’t look like they’ll produce any worthwhile surf for Australia.

However, some of the models are anticipating a second E/SE fetch to develop NE of New Zealand over the weekend - linked in within the same broad trough of low pressure associated with the cyclones - and this could set up a small long range E/SE groundswell for mid next week.  

It also looks like we’ll see a return of the seasonal trades across the low Coral Sea early next week which should provide useful SE swell for Queensland surfers. So if the south swell doesn’t deliver north of the border (and I wouldn’t be holding my breath) then there are certainly some options in the long term. I’ll check all of this out in more detail in Friday’s notes. 

Comments

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Tuesday, 27 Jan 2015 at 7:20pm

You give a very great detailed report coastal watch have cut the report and very little information is giving out with out paying for it. Just some thing I have noticed is this the way off the future just my 2 cents worth

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 27 Jan 2015 at 7:23pm

Putting this kind of content behind a paywall is probably the way of the future, as is expensive to produce. But for now we've kept it freely available. Glad you enjoy what we do.

Cali's picture
Cali's picture
Cali Tuesday, 27 Jan 2015 at 8:54pm

+1 on the reports and all the work you put into them!...and keeping them FREE for the user!

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Wednesday, 28 Jan 2015 at 10:44am

I used to frequent the political blogs on News ltd.... I don't do it anymore.....

Anyway, don't despair sunny coast surfers.... I still believe on Fri/sat, a slightly inconsistent pulse of ese swell will be in the mix.... Some may confuse it with the south swell mentioned..... Bottomline, ese swell around 3 foot on the sets, 10 to 11 seconds....

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 28 Jan 2015 at 10:48am

Where from? Got an ASCAT link?

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Wednesday, 28 Jan 2015 at 12:02pm

I also note that your own forecast is now predicting an ese swell for Friday (primary swell ese 1.4m at 9.7sec) and Saturday (primary swell ese 1.2m at 10.8sec)
http://www.swellnet.com/reports/australia/queensland/sunshine-coast/fore...

Winds look light too......

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Wednesday, 28 Jan 2015 at 12:19pm

Same system, on the 25th;

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 28 Jan 2015 at 11:06am

As I said in the earlier thread I think the trough gets dragged too far south too quickly and the resultant low is poorly positioned for swell generation north of the Hunter. The fetch is aimed mostly at targets well to the south and swell shadowing from the Hunter curve will be significant. Those systems are always disappointing for up here unless they move out into the Tasman and stand and deliver.
I think today is the best day of the forecast period. The fetch from the developing trough is best positioned in our swell window and local winds are most favourable.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 29 Jan 2015 at 6:54am

Access G keeps pushing a very large TC into the CQ coast. That'll be interesting. Sure they're an outlier but they've been right before.

The Bar's picture
The Bar's picture
The Bar Thursday, 29 Jan 2015 at 7:48am

i smiled at yesterdays swell arrival with some great barrels and only a few smiling faces...more to be had today..sweet

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Thursday, 29 Jan 2015 at 1:09pm

Holy dooley!!!!

yocal's picture
yocal's picture
yocal Thursday, 29 Jan 2015 at 1:11pm

I hope I get a big barrel somewhere in the next 2 weeks or I will lose my shit

mk1's picture
mk1's picture
mk1 Thursday, 29 Jan 2015 at 1:27pm

HA! I feel your pain.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Thursday, 29 Jan 2015 at 1:41pm

Yocal...... Mate, blow the cobwebs outa your wallet, get a flight to Tassie, NOW..... Some east coast mysto spots will be smoking 6 to 8 foot by the weekend..... I wont say where exactly.... That's for you to find out...... you only live once, yocal.....

yocal's picture
yocal's picture
yocal Thursday, 29 Jan 2015 at 1:52pm

haha What does it take to get a Sheepdog to spill the beans??? You must be frothing on this low!

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Thursday, 29 Jan 2015 at 2:18pm

Yes and no, yocal.... Got a business to run.... Fuckn early mornings too...... I've done the east coast, mate........One swell a couple of years back was a real memory..... But if you have never surfed down here, this could be a good time........
I am hoping some of that se swell squeaks around a certain corner..... I'm a bit unfit at the moment Yocal.... Had fuck all surf in the last 3 months.... That's the piss off about where I live and work..... But if some refracted four foot peelers rock up down my way, I'll be happy.... Might try to sneak over to a certain ferry ride....

mick-free's picture
mick-free's picture
mick-free Thursday, 29 Jan 2015 at 5:54pm

Looks onshore for the East Coast Tassie. Southerlies????

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 29 Jan 2015 at 9:39pm

SD you're being reasonably quiet about this potential TC in your favourite area for next week? Most models have it bee lining for SE QLD late next week also. Bank buster if that comes to fruition too!!!

southey's picture
southey's picture
southey Thursday, 29 Jan 2015 at 10:52pm

yeah Don . its early days but EC has alot of rain medium wind , Access G has alot of rain high winds but more impact north .
And GFS , well if that comes to fruition . Well the WSL might be looking for a new venue for March ... As a high Cat 3 low 4 hitting that region would be extremely messy .... Infact has it been 60 years since the last 1954 ? .

dromodreamer05's picture
dromodreamer05's picture
dromodreamer05 Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 12:40am

Please, Please. Please no one predict a NE swell. A NE swell has never, will never ever hit the coast. don't go there. Please I beg you. I will however be at the end of the road come sunday (Saturday is not a good day to believe in sse swell) Thank you SD. Leg day was yesterday. Thank you Uplift. Donny see you there!

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 7:38am

shit if this comes to fruition batten down the sand banks.
http://www.metvuw.com/forecast/forecast1.php?type=rain&region=swp&tim=192

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 8:46am

There's all kinds of doomsday scenarios out there at the moment relating to possible TC crossings or coastal huggings.
I thought there were going to be fresh forecaster notes go up last night?
Anyway, looks like this Tasman low down south is a bit of a monster.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 9:02am

Absolutely bombing at my local point this morning Steve. 8ft++ sets out the back and light SW'ers. Lots of clean up sets smoking the pack. Great morning. Hope you get some of the energy up that way.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 10:11am

What size board did you ride ?

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 10:15am

6'6" so a bit undergunned. Paddled out in the dark not knowing the full size. Would've liked a low- to mid-7 footer. 

Heading back out soon...

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 10:17am

Lucky bugger. Get into it. Not taking the 6'6" back out ? Crowds ?

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 10:21am

Yeah, I'll prob take it back out. Swell appears to be settling, be easier to get into them with a lower tide too. It ended up on the rocks this morning, snapped leggy, so gotta tape up a few dings. Wonder if Mark Pridmore will fix 'em?

Crowds were fine. Twice as many watching.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 10:23am

Snapped leggy.......Swellnet leggy ?

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 10:27am

Nah, 10ft Balin. It wasn't the leggy anyway but the cord. 

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 10:21am

Where are you anyway Blowin? Far west NSW???

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 10:32am

That's the spirit !

I'm at Balladonia on the Western end of the Bight. Suicidal Tendencies blaring from the stereo. Wish I was going for a paddle with ya, sounds unreal.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 9:26am

I hope so too but it looks pretty squarely aimed at S/NSW. By the time the low moves out into our swell window it troughs out pretty quickly.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 9:34am

Winds didn't really cooperate overnight last night. Wonky swell this morning.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 9:37am

not here.
It's dropped in size but super clean.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 9:43am

Mick free - lots of nooks on the east coast.....This situation down here is no different than a big low off qld, as in strong s to se winds, open beaches out of control, but protected spots firing... Ohh... There is a difference.... it's called wearing a steamer in the middle of summer lol

Gday, donny... With this qld low, I thought a picture paints a thousands words -note my post at Thursday, 29 Jan 2015 at 1:09pm... I think I also poste a map in an earlier thread, showing 2 lows, 1 waaaay out there, and another in the solomons/ Vanuatu vicinity...... But no one wanted to play.... ;) Good chance of a secondary td after this one too....
Dromo - yeah when you see someone predict a North swell or a north east swell ( and I mean groundswell with a decent period) for qld, it's best to grab a cricket bat and beat some sense into them........... Ene swell however, that happens.....
Lastly, I expect that swell on the sunny coast today not to be sse swell, as stated by Mark, but ese swell. I'd also expect a touch more size this afternoon.....

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 11:13am

15 sec forerunners showed on the Goldy buoy and substantiated by the Byron spectral but it's very small from the E/SE and period looks wrong for the low E/NE of NZ earlier in the week?

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 11:28am

I'd be checking Brisbane/Moreton/ Caloundra/ Mool'bah, as most of the energy was pointed further north than Byron, thanks to NZ shadow.... Seems to be 10 seconds up that way... A slight pulse early this morning... All coming from ese...I'd expect another pulse later today.... Cross fingers...
http://www.qld.gov.au/environment/coasts-waterways/beach/waves-sites/nor...

yocal's picture
yocal's picture
yocal Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 11:17am

hanging for today's forecaster notes....!!!!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 11:46am

They'll be up at the usual time later this afternoon (got a hectic day on today with that 'lil webcast we did from cape Solander this morning, plus Craig's still away).

yocal's picture
yocal's picture
yocal Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 11:55am

no dramas cheers Ben, can I sneak an estimate on the swell size on the exposed tweed backbeaches and around the Clarence also?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 12:12pm

Haven't even started looking at data yet sorry!

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 2:19pm

Sat (Tweed)
Inconsistent 3-4ft S/SE groundswell (bigger size at south facing beaches) combined with smaller and inconsistent 2ft E/SE groundswell

Sat (South of Byron)
Inconsistent 3-5ft S/SE groundswell (bigger size at south facing beaches)

Sunday, knock 1-1.5ft or so off the above.

yocal's picture
yocal's picture
yocal Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 6:26pm

Tough call to drive 3 hrs to score it but you'll never know if you don't go!

Cheers Don!

yocal's picture
yocal's picture
yocal Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 12:51pm

no worries was worth a try haha

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 2:15pm

Couple of good links to the early formation of what looks to be an inevitable TC later this weekend.

http://www.cabooltureweather.com/MTSatPics/MCIRSlideShowQueensland.asp

http://www.cabooltureweather.com/MTSatPics/ConvSlideShowQueensland.asp

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 2:26pm

Nice links DW, interesting, so you are pretty adamant looking at that cloud formation..?

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 2:43pm

If I was a betting man then I'd say there's about a 75% chance we'll have a TC by the end of the weekend.

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 3:00pm

Yeah, Looking at all the various models DW, you could be onto something there.
Could be quite intense, as it is directed right on us...?
1954 floods as Southey mentioned....? Was down at Tweed the other day and noticed a sign in a garden that had flood levels indicated from 1954....? Was metre above the main road ./....?

Does TAB cover these bets now...?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 4:35pm

Maybe not end of the weekend but certainly early next week. However BOM says "There are no significant lows in the region and none are expected to develop over the next three days."

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 4:37pm

Ha! Well there ya go.. Fiji Met (who's AOR this system is in) say for Saturday 13st January:

"TD09F is expected to form into a tropical cyclone and lie just northwest of New Caledonia"

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 4:39pm

Yep, was gonna say Fiji Met have a very differing opinion to BOM!!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 4:43pm

Indeed.. although to be honest I'd trust the BOM on TC advice over FijiMet.

In its defence, the BOM isn't really interested in cyclones unless they pose a serious threat to the Australian coast - via a land crossing, or a big swell. And within the next 3 days these aspects are very unlikely.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 4:47pm
donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 4:50pm

Whilst not relevant to this discussion above, bloody TC Eunice is forecast to pack a serious fecking punch!!!

http://www.usno.navy.mil/NOOC/nmfc-ph/RSS/jtwc/warnings/sh0915.gif

180knt gusts!!!!! GEEZUS!!!

southey's picture
southey's picture
southey Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 4:19pm

No TAB do not take these long timeframe bets anymore , after some Tasmanian man cleaned them out months ago ......;-)
As Don has said , its going to happen . Its now a timing of the Tasman low disappering a High/ ridge sneaking in and then those pesky upper levels / sheer drivers as to where it goes .... If a miracle was to happen and the uppers were pricks , then the Current SST's and next wednesdays king tide could upset a few people living in low lying areas .

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 4:41pm

Uppers were pricks? Surely the uppers (by uppers I assume you mean shear) need to be good to get this TC going?

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Friday, 30 Jan 2015 at 4:51pm

lol ....... yeah, Southey, that high you mention sneaking in would be a sight for sore eyes....... If it does, and we're well overdue down here for some "high pressure sunshine" ( what a crap summer we've had), this could be a major swell event for SEQ..... not just size, but perhaps an elongated swell event/s....... Try to keep the froth to a minimum.... We don't want Alex headland covered in mush.....
I note a second potential system too..... One computer model has it sitting perfectly in the eastern swell window after this first td..... Another model has it slamming into central Qld....... Too early to call yet......

Still waiting for that second pulse of ese swell today.... Maybe that little pulse on dawn was it......... Yibbitta yibbita that's all? :/