It is a rare thing in our age to run the daily risk, however small, of being attacked and eaten by a wild animal. And that is at the core of our fear. It is not the risk of dying as such, our odds of drowning are orders of magnitude higher, it is the nature of the death that appals us. Our fear is built into our bones.
Ryan 'Wanga' Waine and Kerry Langdon Down trade waves at an East Coast reef. The depth of the water betrayed, not only by the shape of the waves, but also by the ever-present boils in the water.
Ryan 'Wanga' Waine and Kerry Langdon Down trade waves at an East Coast reef. The depth of the water betrayed, not only by the shape of the waves, but also by the ever-present boils in the water.
"I was building confidence through each heat," said Ezekiel Lau after his win at Sunset. "It seemed like things were going in my favor and I was just getting the waves I needed at the right time."
"I was building confidence through each heat," said Ezekiel Lau after his win at Sunset. "It seemed like things were going in my favor and I was just getting the waves I needed at the right time."
The Oracle of Australia, Al Hunt, breaks down the qualifying possibilities leading into the last competition of the year - the Pipeline Masters.
Hawaii's own Ezekiel Lau posted the largest victory of his young career today by winning the prestigious 39th annual VANS World Cup of Surfing at Sunset Beach. Lau's win earned him $40,000 and sees him close the year at 35th position on the ASP world rankings.
"The channel bottom has its rightful place in Australian surfing history. It's easy for a lot of shapers to dismiss them as a fad simply because most modern boards come out of a machine and is all too easy. They fit perfectly into today’s high performance modern surfing."
Every time we tell tales of sessions that stretched our legropes, we also tend to stretch the truth. So as October started we werenʼt sure how much truth was in the stories we were reading. There were claims starting to emerge that this was going to be the biggest swell to hit Indonesia in several years.
Every time we tell tales of sessions that stretched our legropes, we also tend to stretch the truth. So as October started we werenʼt sure how much truth was in the stories we were reading. There were claims starting to emerge that this was going to be the biggest swell to hit Indonesia in several years.
