Morning
Steve Shearer pays homage to his favourite time of the day.
The morning session.
The early, the dawny, even the Gentleman's Hour. It's pivotal to Australian surfing, especially the East Coast. As the building block of a surfing life it's so solid you can build a life around it. I'd go as far as to say it's almost crucial. Those surfers who can't embrace the morning session tend to become non-surfers, with notable exceptions which we'll get to in a minute.
The morning session offers the most elegant solution to one of the most pressing issues facing a surfer past adolescence: How does one live a surfing life without being a complete fuck-up? Holding down a job, a marriage, a family, running a business etc etc. They're all possible if the option of the early is on the table.
It's both cure and prophylactic for being jaded. “No eternal reward,” said Jim Morrison, “will forgive us now for wasting the dawn”. No dawn is ever wasted when you launch seawards into it.
Big Pharma invests billions into drugs to reduce the anxiety of everyday life. Nothing comes close as a so-called anxiolytic - for the surfer at least - than pegging an early to the mast. You can go about your day confident you got the best of it. A claim that is true 99% of the time on the East Coast.
Another claim that is true: Those who shred, get up for the early. It functions as an inbuilt auto-pilot, course correcting wayward lifestyles before they become destructive. You can't get up for the early if you've been on the grog. Sleep, diet, and exercise find their expression and their reason for existence in a fine dawny.
The exceptions to the rule are few but noteworthy. Kelly Slater is a notorious night-owl, preferring to stay up late schooling trolls on the internet. His disinterest and subdued performances for the early are legendary. Those of his ilk find more joy in Indonesia and Hawaii, where tradewinds produce better surf for the lates.
I'm a winter dawny freak. Like the schooling sea-mullet, when the first westerly after ANZAC Day hits, my soul stirs and some unseen force propels me to action. I find myself up in the dark with the coffee on, the boards loaded in the Camry the night before, lusting after that liminal period that joins night with day.
La Niña has provided some vintage sessions. Late winter last year. A moon just off the full and a strong southeast groundswell. The bank was thrumming, waves cracking like dry ice in the dark. I rocked-off in the blackness, just the faintest smudge of purple orange on the horizon and immediately scooped up handfuls of neon blue phosphorescence, which then trailed behind me. I wasn't the first out. Never am. There's always someone, usually two or three, who go darker.
I didn't make it out to see who it was anyhow. Got to the corner and a wide set pushed in square. I could see the wall straining against the bank in the moonlight. It was a wave surfed by feel more than sight: racing a streak of moonlight that constantly sucked into a metallic cylinder, smooth as polished steel. When I kicked out past the hut, I let out a “fark!”
Who could appreciate that ride? Not even a fellow dawn patroller walking the track offered a hoot.
Paddling back slowly, I did receive some belated recognition. A sudden loud exhalation made me gasp: "What the fark..?!"
Baby humpback rolled on its side as it drew amidships, and gave me an eyeful - a big sorrowful eye reflecting the moonlight - with its white tummy looking so ribbed and hydrodynamic.
Not every day you get reco from Baby Leviathan.
A bigger exhalation, loud as a foghorn, as Mama humpback disgorged her spray, showering me in a pungent fishy/squiddy/prawny mist of whale spit. I took it as an even greater accolade. Now Mama gave me the eye. I could tell we were profoundly cool with each other. Two mammals engaged in life's deepest purpose.
Mama rose again, so her low back was out of the water then with one tail beat, was gone. The bow wave rocked me as I went over a swell and an insane thought entered my head. With a little more luck, that humpback bow wave could give you a chip shot into a set wave.
Mystery of mysteries, magic, wonder. Communion with nature to the nth degree.
What the hell are you supposed to do with all that peak experience? That joy? That mind expanding euphoria?
Absolutely goddamn nothing is what. No-one gives a shit. Put it in your psychological back pocket and sit on it. Get home, feed the chooks, get the kids off to school and go about your day. Ride the slowly descending waves of endorphins throughout the day.
That's what the dawny does. It offers a little split in the fabric of the work-a-day world, where something that can't be bought, sold and commodified is there for the experiencing.
There's always a new day, there's always another dawny. Is there a better, more hopeful slogan for a surfer?
I say no.
The morning session reigns supreme.
// STEVE SHEARER
(All photos by Craig Brokensha)
Comments
Great read to start the day. I'm sitting here up the mountains with the dogs, watching the sun rise. It's cold and silent. One fisho having a go for a few trout in the lake out front of the cabins we rent infrequently.
I love getting up pre-dawn in the middle of winter- temp is usually well below zero. The air makes me feel turbocharged.
But, my bro- he's the king of the early. Not sure if he even goes to bed. He's getting out of the water when most are getting in for the dawny.
Edit- taken about 15 mins ago. How can you say that that's not worth it?
Amazing. The same pic in full light would be appreciated.
Just booked 2 weeks in Japan now it has opened up. Going in 6 weeks….accomodation is still super cheap.
100% correct, Steve. No better time of the day. I like paddling out with some light…Burleigh has 3/4 locals who often go out long before first light with headlight attached.
Awesome read Steve, thanks. Completely agree; the only way to set you up for the day with a clear head, and the appreciation of how lucky we are to live where we do and take advantage of what it has to offer.
Getting up and out is the best way for nearly everything.
https://theconversation.com/exercise-is-medicine-and-doctors-are-startin...
The early used to be good now it's too crowded, best time is around 7:30 when the workers go in and before all the Centrelink workers get out.
One reason I have worked for myself for over 32 years so I can surf when I want.
Damn right. The colder and finer the morning, the better the rest of the day.
Epic read, been a long time reader - first time poster, after reading that I just had to agree with more then a nod!
I have been a fan of the Dawn for as long as I can remember, they are epic over here in the west as well, it has been what has kept me going through the last period of time since the kids came along - physical exercise, spiritual filling of the cup, adrenalin hit, comradere and just good fun all in one hit well before the day has started proper.
Having the kit ready to go so you are hitting road with minimal noise and effort has become an art form that I am always attempting to perfect - kind of like a side addiction!
Sadly Dawny mates are hard to find at the moment, I love solo Dawny's but doing them in larger or marginal surf conditions are a real challenge! Hoping in a couple of years my boy will be joining me!
Thanks for the article - long live the Dawny!
Epic read, thanks Steve.. and being and east coast surfer and an engineer (pushed towards 9-5) the dawnies are my saviour. I can take anything at work that day if I have had a dip already…..
I think we should also mention the LAGOS - that tiny window 45-30 mins before dark(sunset) when the wind stops…
Nice one Steve.
Lover of the dawny I am and always have been.
Good morning I hear you say
as the sun rises gracefully to lead the way
No matter which way you may turn
To meet the sun, is to have a good day.
Nevertheless a sunset surf can leave me feeling the same way.
for me, the sun helps groom the waves to even better perfection.... 9am is my go to.
I do like looking at the horizon when its blood red though.. about 30mins before dawn.
Times stops still for that 5 minutes.
Cheers for the mad Read Steve. Can fully understand you.
All true. Mornings are great, for all sorts of things.
One of my best surfs last summer, I paddled out under a full moon, well before dawn. Sitting almost 1.5k out to see, the moon lit the approaching waves just enough to judge which ones to go on, and the little bit of pre-dawn light made them surfable.
Three hours later I walked up the beach in warm sunlight in my boardies, having surfed world class waves by myself.
Lovely lovely stuff.
Beautiful read FR. Such a special time of day.
Your whale story brings back an awesome memory of the other end of the day. Middle of winter, raining - had a humpback do something quite similar.
Before i knew it was a whale, the pec fin was the first thing I saw. As it grew out of the water coming straight toward me I actually thought i was about to get eaten by a massive shark, until it got so big I knew it was a whale. We looked at each other and I fell off my board from her wave as she rolled over.
It was dark and time to go in anyway, so i ran back up the beach to the carpark. I was totally blown away, exclaiming to the only other person around - "did you see that???" He didn't give a shit and thought i was crazy.
Cold, dark, raining, in a wetsuit, banging on about whales. Crazy for sure, but feel so lucky to have had that moment. 25 years ago and the memory is still as vivid as ever.
Sooo... what's a complete fuckup Steve? Someone who doesn't "trade in their hours for a handful of dimes" to quote your quoted or who doesn't want to marry and be pinned down with family and who doesn't live by the capitalist ethos of running a business and profitting by essentially ripping someone else off? Are these post adolescent surfers who choose a surfing lifestyle first and firemost, are they 'complete' fuckups??
A very narrow minded definition Steve. Some of the most interesting ppl I've met have been these fuckups. Some of the worst fuckers I've met have been your stereotypical family/business types who tend to be so self-righteous and oh so boring.
Great read.
Was rarely into dawny as when lived on Goldie in 90's I did shift work, then Bali where dawny can equal morning sickness and generally there is no rush, although Bali east coast surf's can be worth the early. Now back in Oz working 'real' job and am a regular early at local beach. Besides keeping me in water, it's a great little social meet with the local crew, sometimes I think the chat can be just as good as the surf, especially if surf average. Get home get ready for work and feel good... Winning....
The last 2 years I have made an effort to getting up before first light everyday there is even a wiff of swell and sneak in an hour or two before work. I have been lucky enough to have a job with flexible start times a fairly short drive and most days I can work from home. It has been a game changer for my surfing, my mental health, and fitness. Making the most of the day when otherwise I would have only sat at my desk on my computer. I surf the same spot 99% of the time that I have been surfing since I was a grom, a fun wedgy beach break on the south coast that has enough variety and different faces to keep it feeling fresh. I have managed to surf the place with nobody to a handful of surfers most times through the week and I think I probably scored more quality tubes in the last 2 years than I have in my whole life. Add in the sensory treat of a sunrise, sea-mist and solitude and it has become one of the most satisfying and rewarding habits that I have made for myself. If you have even 1hr in the mornings that you can spend in the water regularly, build a routine around it and do it!.
Good read as always, couldnt agree more- except these days with the number of big fish in the water where I am- I wait an hour or two for a bit more light on the situation!
great read, thanks!
The solitude, the phosphorescence. First light followed by the warmth. When you hear the voices it's all over.
I remember being startled once by a bald headed bodybasher appearing from the back of a wave with a "gidday mate".
Thanks Steve. You took me to my happy place.
Nice one Steve. I think in all the dawnies over the years there's only one day I can remember not being worth it. Otherwise, no matter how bad getting out of bed is, you always feel like you've made the right decision once you've hit the water.
That being said I'm not a morning person by nature, and resent the fact that I have to be a morning person in order to surf regularly (compared to some other activities I do which can be done after work). I think it comes down to delayed gratification - much prefer getting my treat at the end of a hard day's work rather than vice versa. For this reason I'll try getting my sessions in the Lago when daylight savings hits rather than the dawnie (winds permitting).
SSShhhhhhh. Surf is crap early - always has morning sickness, is colder and full of sharks nibbling your toes. Especially on good days.
Stay in bed....
I'm usually first out in the darkness, an hour to myself, shooting star light shows, 10 waves before anyone else wakes up, sit where you want, no 'deep off' bullshit, not sharing with mates, no noise, no talking, great sessions that die when the next person paddles out and I go in as the sun comes up, secret solo magic.
*edit* frog's right, it's shit.
Morning sickness is real. Sometimes it is funky wind but often it is mental perception. The same wave predawn with chill in the air and dull water just looks a so much better two hours later in full sun.
How many carrots you eat?
I've definitely been out when it's too dark, no moon. Black horizon, can just make out a blacker swell line rising/approaching, squinting, is this a wave?, too dark to judge distance, SMACK IN THE FACE, cleaned up. Yep, bit too early today.
When super early in semi darkness the splashes and strange out of place ripples take on a whole different meaning. So does being way out on the outermost take off where there is nothing between you and the deep black sea and the nearest friendly GW. Sitting in a bit seems safer but isn't really.
Daily darkness sessions and your risk equation gets a bit high but just doing it occasionally - I can rationalise that...
But the rest of you - stay in bed it is not worth it.
The scariest things are in my imagination
Fear is the mind-killer.
Too dark, misjudge the curve in the bowl and FACEPLANT.
But when the moonlight cooperates and a silver trail leads the way, high speed turns back and forth across the trail all down the line
Top pic one of this years favourites, lines of gold and mist. Cracker wotd too tiptoeing through the tulips.
i used to get up for earlies all the time. now i hate it for 2 reasons. 1 is that when the surf is going to be pumping, i get so excited, find it very hard to fall asleep, and then when the alarm goes off i'm too shattered to surf and have to sleep in. then the rest of the day i am tired and annoyed i missed out. 2nd reason is getting burnt with below par waves - as a grom i would surf anything, now if its not good i dont bother.
Feel like the quintessential dawny can only be achieved in Winter. Nothing beats a crisp, still Winter dawny. Down these parts anyways.
The amount of times I’ve got up wayyy before sunrise and driven around checking spots looking for a bank then by the time you get in the water it’s 8:30.
Not quite as easy as having a nice east coast point break you can rock up to every morning!
Oh yeah. The stars need to align to truly deliver but when even just walking in somewhere - theres fog in low laying areas as, the sun is just popping up over Arthur’s Seat, it’s completely still and crisp, not a cloud in the sky.
A wet wettie nullifies all that though..
Dawnies are great, but dusk is epic in its own right.
Spending your day looking forward to the evening glass off.
Feeling the excitement as the swell builds towards dark, and knowing it'll be just as good tomorrow.
The warmer air and water after a full day of sun.
Sunsets.
Being one of the last out, getting an epic wave to go in on, but kicking off and paddling back out to get one more in the dark.
Finishing the day completely spent, ready for dinner/bed.
Dawines have an element of rigour to them, as mentioned in the article it's all the pre work crowd, no nonsense, get in/get out, competing to get their fill of waves before the daily stresses of life.
Dusk is a mindset shift. People have switched off for the day, maybe they surfed early already, but there's less urgency.
Well said. If only offshore breezes were more common for the arvo.
Yep, favorite days are when I get up for the early, get some good ones uncrowded, go about the rest of the day and then head back out late and score some more coming back in on dark. Drive home pick up some good food then go to bed completely satisfied.
Yes.
Thanks for this Steve. Excellent. CJ
this was beautiful. Only a surfer knows the feeling.
And when the surf's no good I still go down for an early swim and bodysurf, weather permitting.
Paddling out in the astronomical twilight. Stars twinkling in the sky with just the slightest slither of approaching light on the horizon.
If inconsistent, thoughts easily drift towards what lies beneath and your uninvited entry to their domain. But getting ten or so waves before anyone else paddles out, then paddling in just before the sun rises and gets too glarey on the eyes is one of life's treats. That followed by a good feed and coffee.
In a crowded city, getting too many good ones in the dark will instantly attract the incoming hoards, but triangulating helps negate that.
Myself, I only get to do dawn surfs on the weekend, but am up before first light during the week. I find mid-morning surfs being better in performance thanks to being more awake and having a good feed for energy.
Great piece Steve.
Screw you guys I’m going back to bed.
I agree whole heartedly guys but there’s been a few threads here on SN over the years regarding the lure of the early.. can we stop advertising how good it is to get up for a first light session please..?
Southern Ocean no need to hurry in the morning haha
Expectations, I find if I've convinced myself that it's worth going down for an early, my expectation of scoring good waves is high. The trouble with high expectations is the potential for disappointment is magnified. And around these parts, every good bank or point is packed from the get go with frothing grommets and tradies all hell bent on getting their fill before work/school. Give me the mid morning gift of offshore or light wind arvo session, I know the waves may not be as good, but if I score a sneaky uncrowded session my soul is gratified.
Another great read Steve, thanks!
Any glassy surf is a magic time.
Night surfing is a wild sensory experience.
So a "complete fuckup" is someone who chooses a total surf lifestyle as opposed to someone who conforms to the expectations of society and the ethos of capitalism. Is that what you're saying there Steve?
Please explain...
I wouldnt take offence. As someone who has conformed to the norm (wife, kids, job etc.), if I had the recipe for a "total surf lifestyle" without detriment to my family or the taxpayer, I would take the "fuck-up" tag quietly with a wry smile everyday of the week.
pretty much.
Term of endearment in my books though.
Perhaps it should be a "complete fuckoff"! A fuckoff to all the deranged conformity and "normality" and earth destroying consumerism. Just sayin...
copy that Harry.
Its called irony, mate. A form of humour that sometimes challenges emotional intelligence. Just sayin...
Yeah I get it normy
Thanks FR, so well expressed. Thinking, expressive whales, maybe...
Having crooked nasal passages
Memories literally flood out during the day
Gorgeous story Steve. Thanks for sharing it. A take away line for me:
"What the hell are you supposed to do with all that peak experience? That joy? That mind expanding euphoria?"
So many moments in a surfing life are like that: fleeting, sensory, and completely inexplicable. It's worth trying to hold on to the feeling of those things for as long as possible, because they really are magic.