Desert Point Dreaming - video

Craig Brokensha picture
Craig Brokensha (Craig)
Swellnet Dispatch

Amazing angles of Kalani Chapman and Ezra Sitt threading flawless Desert Point.

Comments

floyd's picture
floyd's picture
floyd Friday, 19 Sep 2014 at 5:17pm

Love to hit those waves with a good single fin.

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adriannapaul7 Tuesday, 30 Sep 2014 at 8:31pm

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udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Friday, 19 Sep 2014 at 5:43pm

Why ,what advantages would a single fin give you over a thruster or quad ?

mibs-oner's picture
mibs-oner's picture
mibs-oner Friday, 19 Sep 2014 at 9:28pm

haha thank fuck someone said it

rusty-moran's picture
rusty-moran's picture
rusty-moran Friday, 19 Sep 2014 at 9:03pm

Hats off to old mate holding onto the foam ball while drop in boy pig dogs a shoulder.

Yeah yeah, I understand from a clip, we don't know who's turn it was, but respect for giving it a good nudge nonetheless.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 19 Sep 2014 at 9:06pm

Yeah I noticed that as well, super deep and in there a while!

floyd's picture
floyd's picture
floyd Friday, 19 Sep 2014 at 10:08pm

Just a personal preference.

Did you notice how wide of a stance the some of the guys had on their boards struggling to get weight on the front foot to make some sections? Back foot over the fins and front foot as far forward as possible (1.03)(3.17). Loved the way the guy at (1.20) rode that wave; more flow .... just a personal thing.

evosurfer's picture
evosurfer's picture
evosurfer Saturday, 20 Sep 2014 at 10:59am

Im from the single fin days and the only reason I can still stand up today is because of thrusters and quads. Single fins dont turn and certainly wont connect turns together, spin out on take offs and real turns , every turn is a compromise one way or the other and relatively slow as well no I dont understand why anybody would want to surf them. Not to mention they are not any good in a barrel as you cannot change direction on them. They serve no purpose in the modern era of surfing I mean you cannot even have fun surfing them at least on a retro you can have some fun.

floyd's picture
floyd's picture
floyd Saturday, 20 Sep 2014 at 1:21pm

Enjoy your trip evo

jaunkemps's picture
jaunkemps's picture
jaunkemps Saturday, 20 Sep 2014 at 1:53pm

That first shot from up high shows it looking pretty large, the guy that straightend out would have ended up on the sand ; {}

Rabbits68's picture
Rabbits68's picture
Rabbits68 Sunday, 21 Sep 2014 at 12:56pm

"Im from the single fin days and the only reason I can still stand up today is because of thrusters and quads. Single fins dont turn and certainly wont connect turns together, spin out on take offs and real turns , every turn is a compromise one way or the other and relatively slow as well no I dont understand why anybody would want to surf them. Not to mention they are not any good in a barrel as you cannot change direction on them. They serve no purpose in the modern era of surfing I mean you cannot even have fun surfing them at least on a retro you can have some fun."

Hey Evo, What about "Personal Preference"?? What about for fun?? You sound so convinced that none of us should be riding anything that doesn't suit the modern era. What is the modern era??

I agree with Rasta who states along the lines of....."ride what ever you want, however you want, wherever you want".......

Why the F#@K should we all do what you want us to do Evo?? If it's just your opinion, fair enough, but you sound a bit more dictating that just a humble opinion..........

rees0's picture
rees0's picture
rees0 Sunday, 21 Sep 2014 at 3:02pm

Most used boards in my quiver
1. 5'10 quad parabolic rails. So versatile

2. 6'2 single fin. fluted flyers with swallow tail. Funnest board i own love this board in anything down the line frontside will take this out in good point break surf over my shortboard any day.

3. 6'2 thruster "modern era" what ever the fuck that means. absolutely useless in anything other than waves with near perfect shape and bigger then head high. (not very common on the sunshine coast hence the dust that reguarly collects on it.

Would have surfed my single fin at deserts had i been goofy but rode my 6'2 thruster and step up on the bigger morning.

Deserts is a perfect wave for a single fin if your goofy more of a point and go barrel your going so fkn fast anyway.

The side fins on a thruster create "drag" more drag = less speed. To my understanding the speed is created though a combination of concaves and fins on thrusters and requires constant pressure been placed on the board hence why everyone who isn't of a reasonable skill level seems to look like they are stuggling to create the speed necessary to perform any "modern era" manoveours

oldman's picture
oldman's picture
oldman Monday, 22 Sep 2014 at 4:15pm

Cant agree rees0.
Reckon the quads the go for straight line barreling, i dont get any drag from side fins.
Thrusters for direction changes and gouging, but thrusters for speed.
They can get loose on late take offs tho.

rees0's picture
rees0's picture
rees0 Monday, 22 Sep 2014 at 5:40pm

Quads are faster i would agree. Something about the feeling of a good single fin but...

Going to back to drag if you draw a straight line parallel to the inside of foil of your side fins you will find that in most cases the thruster lines will intersect at a point closer then that of the quad. This increased angle is what creates the drag but allows for a sharper radius in which to turn on.

Concave i think is the real killer here a flatter surface will plane across the water better and will be more consistent in momentum. deeper concaves require constant pressure been applied and reapplied and will accelerate faster but will also lose momentum faster.

If your not applying large amounts of pressure through the turn the board will slow down leaving you without the speed on exit to either make the next section or begin the next manoveure. Pro surfers have no problem with this as thier technique is near perfect from hundreds of hours of practice. The average joe however will struggle to apply the pressure necessary for %90 of boards sitting on the racks.

I spent many years surfing the wrong boards for the wrong waves under the illusion that because the pro's where riding it then it must be whats best and i have no doubt that it cost me alot of development.

As for what boards go best? i reckon the one that brings the biggest smile to your face.

memlasurf's picture
memlasurf's picture
memlasurf Tuesday, 23 Sep 2014 at 4:46pm

I'm with Evo. I grew up from them to twins to thrusters then whatever. Singles are really a dog with flea's only thing worse is a mal. I think if you were there at the time and serious you never want to go back. They just didn't work, believe me Evo and I from this era and know only too well. The twin was like a breath of fresh air as they were fast and you turn them, and the modern thruster is the porsche of boards. Singles are like driving an antique car (not classic - think T model): A fun novelty for some on a sunny arvo but not day to day transport. Quoting Rasta is no good as he can ride anything and does.

Rabbits68's picture
Rabbits68's picture
Rabbits68 Wednesday, 7 Jan 2015 at 12:07pm

Rasta isn't the only bloke who rides all sorts. At the end of day it's a personal preference, clearly not yours and that's fine :-)

trippergreenfeet's picture
trippergreenfeet's picture
trippergreenfeet Wednesday, 7 Jan 2015 at 11:21am

Obviously those who say singles are shit have never ridden a NPJ single...put them in good waves and they rip. Sure it takes an adjustment in approach, but non the less they still perform to the highest level.

If ya can't ride a modern single, it's got nothing to do with the board.

waterhen's picture
waterhen's picture
waterhen Wednesday, 7 Jan 2015 at 12:31pm

analysis of surfboard performance is really getting technical these days. desert point would have to be one of the best proving grounds, it is so consistent , this ensures that data is rock solid true and not elevated like if it was a sandbottom or wonky etc.
how about some crew getting out there together for a solid session and alternate rides between different equipment eg. surfer a) one wave thruster, one wave single surfer b) one wave quad, one wave thruster surfer c) one wave thruster normal, one wave thruster short etc etc. would make good reading

zenagain's picture
zenagain's picture
zenagain Wednesday, 7 Jan 2015 at 3:08pm

And good viewing too waterhen.

Brilliant idea.