Big Swells Incoming for Tahiti

Craig Brokensha picture
Craig Brokensha (Craig)
Swellnet Analysis

Tahiti's on target for a prolonged series of large swells over the next week, and once again we owe our thanks to the Long Wave Trough.

Regular readers will be familiar with the term 'Long Wave Trough' (LWT) and its influence on steering weather systems into particular parts of the country. To recap, the LWT is a large, slow moving trough of low pressure in the upper atmosphere which influences regional weather patterns.

The position of the LWT can bring about sustained periods of swell for different parts of the coast, depending on its position and alignment. For example, when the LWT amplifies across the Great Australian Bight, South Australia and Victoria experience strong, sizeable swells. If the LWT parks itself across the southern Tasman Sea, then Australia's eastern seaboard, Fiji and New Zealand will usually see an extended period of southerly swell activity.

When the LWT stalls and amplifies east of New Zealand, Southern Ocean storms are supercharged and steered deep into the South Pacific on a course towards Tahiti.

And this is exactly what's expected to develop over the coming week with the LWT amplifying just east of New Zealand before moving slowly eastwards. The first frontal system associated with the LWT will project up from polar latitudes into the South Pacific this Friday and Saturday, generating a long-period S/SW groundswell in the 15ft+ range for Monday afternoon and Tuesday morning.

A series of secondary frontal systems being steered along a similar path will prevent the swell dropping below 10ft mid-next week, ahead of another 15ft swell due sometime around Thursday. Swell activity should start to settle down from here on as a result of the LWT moving off to the east and weakening, focusing Southern Ocean fronts along a more zonal (west-east) track away from Tahiti.

With almost a week of sizeable back-to-back swells in the forecast period, we can expect a strong contingent of big wave surfers to make the pilgrimage over to Tahiti. Keep an eye on Swellnet for the latest news.

Click here for the latest Tahiti weather charts. //CRAIG BROKENSHA

Comments

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 14 May 2013 at 10:29am

Quiksilver are uploading videos from the channel and it looks like it's absolutely pumping!

Here's Kealii Mamala in a beast: https://vine.co/v/b00H5FQjVlF

And Dean Bowen on a perfect one: https://vine.co/v/b0QVPOuJ03V

mick-free's picture
mick-free's picture
mick-free Tuesday, 14 May 2013 at 11:16am

Is there a link to Quiky ??

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Tuesday, 14 May 2013 at 11:58am
Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 29 May 2013 at 9:39pm

An even larger swell than the one that hit 3 weeks ago is on track for this Saturday afternoon at Teahupoo.

This time the storm creating the swell will push closer up towards Tahiti, have stronger core winds and cover a larger area of ocean.

We're talking just over 5m @ 18seconds and 20ft waves at Teahupoo.

Check the charts and storm here: http://www.swellnet.com.au/weather/snsw/charts

Watch this space!

braithy's picture
braithy's picture
braithy Thursday, 30 May 2013 at 8:13am

That's crazy Craig. Completely mental. Winter hasn't even started!

20-foot @ 18 seconds puts it on par with the Code Red Swell, does it not?

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Thursday, 30 May 2013 at 8:26am

What comes after Red? Magenta? Fuschia..?

zenagain's picture
zenagain's picture
zenagain Thursday, 30 May 2013 at 8:29am

Code Burgundy?

braithy's picture
braithy's picture
braithy Thursday, 30 May 2013 at 8:29am

Well if red symbolises blood, after that we're into the marrow.

Code Marrow!

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Thursday, 30 May 2013 at 8:34am

Code Marrow does sounds awfully dramatic, however I'm more swayed by absurdity.

Code Burgundy gets my vote.

braithy's picture
braithy's picture
braithy Thursday, 30 May 2013 at 8:39am

I like irony. So CODE TEAL gets my vote.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Thursday, 30 May 2013 at 8:46am

I like playing with my HAM radio so Code Morse gets my second vote.

braithy's picture
braithy's picture
braithy Thursday, 30 May 2013 at 8:51am

I was about nominate Code Bacon, my favourite food.

But then I stopped myself.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 30 May 2013 at 10:27am

Braithy, comparing the raw numbers it comes in pretty bloody close indeed..

Code Red August 2011 saw 5m of swell @ 19.3 seconds!
The swell due this Saturday is 5.2m @ 17.5 seconds.

So the size this Saturday is a touch larger but that difference in period (lower) will probably see the swell falling a touch under what we saw in 2011.

For all intents and purposes though it looks very similar!

the-roller's picture
the-roller's picture
the-roller Thursday, 30 May 2013 at 10:37am

Code Scrape.

Code Black... out.

therealneil's picture
therealneil's picture
therealneil Thursday, 30 May 2013 at 8:06pm

How about code brown? That'd be the colour of my shorts if I was there
Wonder who's gunna show up for this episode

mick-free's picture
mick-free's picture
mick-free Friday, 31 May 2013 at 12:11pm

Craig is that the system that was split by NZ, half of the swell arrived in Fiji last night and then Tahiti Saturday??

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Friday, 31 May 2013 at 12:16pm

Split by NZ?

Fucken Kiwis...

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 31 May 2013 at 12:16pm

Nah Mick, totally different systems. The swell that hit Fiji yesterday was produced up through the Tasman Sea and Tahiti would of got jack of that.

This Tahiti swell was and is still being generated by a significant storm system east of New Zealand.

shoredump's picture
shoredump's picture
shoredump Friday, 31 May 2013 at 11:48pm

& add 6ft for Easter Island!!

crisp's picture
crisp's picture
crisp Sunday, 2 Jun 2013 at 1:55pm

Swell should be hitting - anyone got shots up yet?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Sunday, 2 Jun 2013 at 6:39pm

Tim Bonython is trickling a few through on his page here.. https://www.facebook.com/timbonython?fref=ts

But, have a look at this shot from behind the reef! Absolutely amazing and terrifying with the water drawing off the reef. Don't know the shooter.. https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/428116_3454965388...

crisp's picture
crisp's picture
crisp Sunday, 2 Jun 2013 at 9:51pm

Holy shit, that is unreal. How had no-one died the last few massive swells?

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Monday, 3 Jun 2013 at 1:32pm

so did this swell happen yesterday ? any pictures or footage out yet, did it reach its predicted 20ft ?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 3 Jun 2013 at 1:49pm

Haven't heard much Udo as there weren't as many people over for this swell as the last big event but a couple of Tim's photos show easy 15ft waves.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 3 Jun 2013 at 4:01pm

Here's a link to some footage Udo. Some carnage in their involving kite-boarders!

http://www.dailymotion.com/1ere-polynesie#video=x10gz2r