Endless March Of Easterly Swell
The rule of thumb for East Coast swell prediction is to not to put too much weight on swells forecast beyond four days. With the Tasman and Coral Seas being so dynamic, a movement of a low here or a shift of a fetch there can have big implications on local surf size and conditions.
There are, however, certain synoptic setups where we can make confident calls over a week out, even two, and the coming fortnight is one of these. Starting today, the East Coast is expected to be flushed with easterly swell and it's likely to extend into the beginning of March.
How can we be so certain when, as mentioned, the weather is usually so dynamic?
The answer lies in a semi-permanent area of high pressure establishing itself across the Tasman Sea and New Zealand. This is known as the sub-tropical ridge and shifts south through summer, opening up the Australian coast to easterly trade-winds which are usually positioned further north.
Add in a stalling MJO signal (increased tropical activity) in the region and we'll see persistent tropical instability squeezing the northern flank of transient highs, in turn producing an anchored easterly trade-wind fetch, with embedded bursts of stronger activity.
This is the outlook for the coming fortnight and beyond, with an elongated fetch of stationary trade-winds expected to setup from the Coral Sea, across New Zealand into the Pacific Ocean.
With travel times from the backside of the fetch (south-west of Tahiti) being four-to-five days and the activity expected to be maintained until at least the final days of February, we can expect the coming run of easterly swell to run over three weeks, making it all the way to March.
The way these swells usually play out is with relatively consistent delivery of moderate-sized, mid-period swell the whole time, ebbing and pulsing in size and period with each additional burst of tropical activity.
Under these scenarios, bagging surf becomes a marathon not a sprint, and those who can keep a lid on the froth and pace themselves throughout the event, will be best placed to win.
Also, owing to coastline orientation, Southern NSW will receive less energy compared to south-east Queensland and northern NSW. North-east magnets only for anywhere south of Newcastle.
As always, you can keep updated with the exact timings of each swell pulse and the local winds in the tri-weekly Forecaster Notes.
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Man, bit onshore, but probably lighter some mornings. Rather have consistent 4ft ish point surf than what we've had for the last while. Local wind outlook will likely change a fair bit during the ongoing swell and many of the points will handle a moderate onshore breeze anyway, with clean faced inside waves and less crew out.
Lets get into it!
a lot of shit wind to go with it.
There'll be plenty of windows and options.
I think that’s what all the oo’s are for
It’s a forecast for the right hand points. They need a crowd indicator.
similar to last couple years when the beaches develop gutters and the banks go to shit........been pretty good lately but probably about to change
Winds look only good for points or southern corners? Or are the local winds unpredictable that far out?
Also, this reminds me a lot of April 2022! Lots of rain and beach erosion then. Is something similar on the cards weather wise? I hope not!
It shouldn't be too wet, just persistent showery stuff. Some days wetter than others.
My local just froths on this swell direction..bar the winds it awesome
YoU'rE gOiNg To MaKe ThE cRoWdS wOrSe WiTh AlL tHiS hYpE! < Joking >
Just got back from admittedly off-season Bali (non-surf focused trip) and even the GC Crowds may be more manageable in comparison
Where were ya surfing?
Trades kept blowing through to January I heard and some good uncrowded sessions on Bukit I heard. Ulu side I mean.
This kind of setup made the Gold Coast famous eh …. Didn’t it pump for 6 weeks once?
Is this endless swell still on the cards? We're planning a two week trip starting next Sat 17th and got excited, but looks like things might have tempered off in the forecast?
Not at all, still tons to come.
Thanks Craig! If you were to base yourself in any region for a couple of weeks starting from next weekend, where would you be going?
Probably Japan chasing fresh pow, I reckon.
Zing,
Lol .......we got a rogue ceo over here
With the recent heatwave?
Noosa is a good option. not too many people except Boogie Fever. He loves it out there.
snapper or the pass........but keep it on the low down ok...shh
Well, how's everyone travelling so far. Been pretty damn fun once winds settled down.
Having a bloody cracker. Managed to scope out the little hidden gem of a wave at "The Pass" and a friendly local told me there's an even better sand bottom point called Snapper up the road a coupla hours. Nah but seriously we've had some unreal sessions - thanks heaps Craig for the great forecast. Gave us the confidence to pull the trigger on a longer road trip and it's been a bloody hoot. Hope you're scoring too!
Awesome, great to hear!
Good times at a forgotten pointbreak and nearby beachies.
Would have been bigger and better further north, but 7 days in a row of mostly clean head-plus morning sessions with no more than 2 others out seems like a win.
Back at work now.
You score as usual?
Just staying local, but a pretty insane slabby rip-bowl popped up with no-one onto it until yesterday and today, when it started to disappear. So yeah stoked, got some crackers.
No-one on it up your end?
Hard to believe!
Good on ya.
Yeah, kinda hidden in plain sight, but just out of sight, the way I like it ;p There were like max 5 during the week and then today 20 or so ha. But it turned into a closeout.
Down south has only generally been fun size across the last 2 weeks, ie 3ft or less. Did not surf the last 2 days due to winds but Tuesday was a solid 4 ft on the sets, but that seemed to be the SE swell with some E/ne mixed in. Either way has not been flat for a long time and I can live with fun size.
Can't remember the last time it was under head high.
Most of last winter.
Haha!
Actually looking forwards to it dropping so I can fix dings and go fishing.
Tried to sneak out to a rock platform Mon and got my arse handed to me.
Happens to the best of us.
4 mornings in a row of pumping glassy beachbreaks here, nearly a 5th this morning but northerly was into it a bit, paddled out and was still good but by this stage I was getting picky with my quality control.