Endless March Of Easterly Swell

Craig Brokensha picture
Craig Brokensha (Craig)
Swellnet Analysis

The rule of thumb for East Coast swell prediction is to not to put too much weight on swells forecast beyond four days. With the Tasman and Coral Seas being so dynamic, a movement of a low here or a shift of a fetch there can have big implications on local surf size and conditions.

There are, however, certain synoptic setups where we can make confident calls over a week out, even two, and the coming fortnight is one of these. Starting today, the East Coast is expected to be flushed with easterly swell and it's likely to extend into the beginning of March.

How can we be so certain when, as mentioned, the weather is usually so dynamic?

The answer lies in a semi-permanent area of high pressure establishing itself across the Tasman Sea and New Zealand. This is known as the sub-tropical ridge and shifts south through summer, opening up the Australian coast to easterly trade-winds which are usually positioned further north.

Add in a stalling MJO signal (increased tropical activity) in the region and we'll see persistent tropical instability squeezing the northern flank of transient highs, in turn producing an anchored easterly trade-wind fetch, with embedded bursts of stronger activity.

Coming synoptic setup with high pressure squeezed by low pressure depressions to the north

This is the outlook for the coming fortnight and beyond, with an elongated fetch of stationary trade-winds expected to setup from the Coral Sea, across New Zealand into the Pacific Ocean.

With travel times from the backside of the fetch (south-west of Tahiti) being four-to-five days and the activity expected to be maintained until at least the final days of February, we can expect the coming run of easterly swell to run over three weeks, making it all the way to March.

The way these swells usually play out is with relatively consistent delivery of moderate-sized, mid-period swell the whole time, ebbing and pulsing in size and period with each additional burst of tropical activity.

Under these scenarios, bagging surf becomes a marathon not a sprint, and those who can keep a lid on the froth and pace themselves throughout the event, will be best placed to win.

Gold Coast forecast for the coming ten days

Also, owing to coastline orientation, Southern NSW will receive less energy compared to south-east Queensland and northern NSW. North-east magnets only for anywhere south of Newcastle.

As always, you can keep updated with the exact timings of each swell pulse and the local winds in the tri-weekly Forecaster Notes.

Comments

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Thursday, 8 Feb 2024 at 1:34pm

Woooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Thursday, 8 Feb 2024 at 4:27pm

Man, bit onshore, but probably lighter some mornings. Rather have consistent 4ft ish point surf than what we've had for the last while. Local wind outlook will likely change a fair bit during the ongoing swell and many of the points will handle a moderate onshore breeze anyway, with clean faced inside waves and less crew out.
Lets get into it!

gingeryeti's picture
gingeryeti's picture
gingeryeti Thursday, 8 Feb 2024 at 2:04pm

a lot of shit wind to go with it.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 8 Feb 2024 at 2:34pm

There'll be plenty of windows and options.

dstrosberg's picture
dstrosberg's picture
dstrosberg Thursday, 8 Feb 2024 at 2:52pm

I think that’s what all the oo’s are for

wax-on-danielson's picture
wax-on-danielson's picture
wax-on-danielson Thursday, 8 Feb 2024 at 3:36pm

It’s a forecast for the right hand points. They need a crowd indicator.

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Thursday, 8 Feb 2024 at 2:11pm

similar to last couple years when the beaches develop gutters and the banks go to shit........been pretty good lately but probably about to change

juegasiempre's picture
juegasiempre's picture
juegasiempre Thursday, 8 Feb 2024 at 2:25pm

Winds look only good for points or southern corners? Or are the local winds unpredictable that far out?

Also, this reminds me a lot of April 2022! Lots of rain and beach erosion then. Is something similar on the cards weather wise? I hope not!

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 8 Feb 2024 at 2:35pm

It shouldn't be too wet, just persistent showery stuff. Some days wetter than others.

sean killen's picture
sean killen's picture
sean killen Thursday, 8 Feb 2024 at 2:32pm

My local just froths on this swell direction..bar the winds it awesome

Le_Reynard's picture
Le_Reynard's picture
Le_Reynard Thursday, 8 Feb 2024 at 2:36pm

YoU'rE gOiNg To MaKe ThE cRoWdS wOrSe WiTh AlL tHiS hYpE! < Joking >

Just got back from admittedly off-season Bali (non-surf focused trip) and even the GC Crowds may be more manageable in comparison

andy-mac's picture
andy-mac's picture
andy-mac Friday, 9 Feb 2024 at 9:33am

Where were ya surfing?
Trades kept blowing through to January I heard and some good uncrowded sessions on Bukit I heard. Ulu side I mean.

hamishbro's picture
hamishbro's picture
hamishbro Thursday, 8 Feb 2024 at 4:22pm

This kind of setup made the Gold Coast famous eh …. Didn’t it pump for 6 weeks once?

Turkey's picture
Turkey's picture
Turkey Monday, 12 Feb 2024 at 12:10pm

Is this endless swell still on the cards? We're planning a two week trip starting next Sat 17th and got excited, but looks like things might have tempered off in the forecast?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 12 Feb 2024 at 12:21pm

Not at all, still tons to come.

Turkey's picture
Turkey's picture
Turkey Monday, 12 Feb 2024 at 1:47pm

Thanks Craig! If you were to base yourself in any region for a couple of weeks starting from next weekend, where would you be going?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 12 Feb 2024 at 2:40pm

Probably Japan chasing fresh pow, I reckon.

Lanky Dean's picture
Lanky Dean's picture
Lanky Dean Thursday, 22 Feb 2024 at 11:02pm

Zing,
Lol .......we got a rogue ceo over here

Pops's picture
Pops's picture
Pops Friday, 23 Feb 2024 at 10:25am

With the recent heatwave?

burleigh's picture
burleigh's picture
burleigh Monday, 12 Feb 2024 at 2:43pm

Noosa is a good option. not too many people except Boogie Fever. He loves it out there.

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Monday, 12 Feb 2024 at 1:51pm

snapper or the pass........but keep it on the low down ok...shh

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 22 Feb 2024 at 1:07pm

Well, how's everyone travelling so far. Been pretty damn fun once winds settled down.

Turkey's picture
Turkey's picture
Turkey Friday, 23 Feb 2024 at 10:21am

Having a bloody cracker. Managed to scope out the little hidden gem of a wave at "The Pass" and a friendly local told me there's an even better sand bottom point called Snapper up the road a coupla hours. Nah but seriously we've had some unreal sessions - thanks heaps Craig for the great forecast. Gave us the confidence to pull the trigger on a longer road trip and it's been a bloody hoot. Hope you're scoring too!

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 23 Feb 2024 at 1:07pm

Awesome, great to hear!

Pops's picture
Pops's picture
Pops Friday, 23 Feb 2024 at 10:30am

Good times at a forgotten pointbreak and nearby beachies.
Would have been bigger and better further north, but 7 days in a row of mostly clean head-plus morning sessions with no more than 2 others out seems like a win.
Back at work now.

You score as usual?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 23 Feb 2024 at 1:08pm

Just staying local, but a pretty insane slabby rip-bowl popped up with no-one onto it until yesterday and today, when it started to disappear. So yeah stoked, got some crackers.

Pops's picture
Pops's picture
Pops Friday, 23 Feb 2024 at 1:11pm

No-one on it up your end?
Hard to believe!
Good on ya.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 23 Feb 2024 at 1:12pm

Yeah, kinda hidden in plain sight, but just out of sight, the way I like it ;p There were like max 5 during the week and then today 20 or so ha. But it turned into a closeout.

belly's picture
belly's picture
belly Friday, 23 Feb 2024 at 8:18am

Down south has only generally been fun size across the last 2 weeks, ie 3ft or less. Did not surf the last 2 days due to winds but Tuesday was a solid 4 ft on the sets, but that seemed to be the SE swell with some E/ne mixed in. Either way has not been flat for a long time and I can live with fun size.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 23 Feb 2024 at 1:26pm

Can't remember the last time it was under head high.

Pops's picture
Pops's picture
Pops Friday, 23 Feb 2024 at 1:38pm

Most of last winter.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 23 Feb 2024 at 1:40pm

Haha!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 23 Feb 2024 at 1:49pm

Actually looking forwards to it dropping so I can fix dings and go fishing.

Tried to sneak out to a rock platform Mon and got my arse handed to me.

Pops's picture
Pops's picture
Pops Friday, 23 Feb 2024 at 2:18pm

Happens to the best of us.

Jono's picture
Jono's picture
Jono Friday, 23 Feb 2024 at 2:29pm

4 mornings in a row of pumping glassy beachbreaks here, nearly a 5th this morning but northerly was into it a bit, paddled out and was still good but by this stage I was getting picky with my quality control.