Severe Tropical Cyclone Victor: A week of easterly swell for the East Coast
Severe Tropical Cyclone Victor has been meandering around the South Pacific for the last five days, holding Category 3 strength south-east of Samoa. Those of you who frequent the Southeast Queensland written forecast would have first read about this system eight days ago, in last Monday’s forecast notes.
There are several points of comparison between Victor and Severe Tropical Cyclone Ula, which reached Category 4 status as it passed close to New Caledonia a week and a half ago, providing a decent, if somewhat inconsistent E’ly swell for the East Coast.
Victor is a much broader system, with core wind speeds above 50kts (and up to 60kts+) spreading across a much wider radius than Ula. After a slow southerly trajectory throughout the last few days, Victor has recently begun a curve towards the west - aimed straight at the Australian East Coast, albeit more than 4,000km from the mainland.
STC Victor's forecast track, courtesy RSMC Nadi Tropical Cyclone Warning Centre
On the other hand, Ula wasn’t able to take advantage of its favourable proximity to the mainland, mainly tracking perpendicular (S/SE) through the swell window which reduced its swell potential.
The westward trajectory of Victor will help to enhance wave height generation, along with a strong ridge to the south of Victor, which is broadening easterly gales about its southern flank.
But what’s most impressive about Victor is its longevity. Model guidance has been pretty reliable on this system so far, and despite an expectation for a technical weakening (as a tropical cyclone) over the coming days, it looks like Victor’s broad surface wind field will remain at strength up until about Sunday. That’s around ten days of swell production, the last six or seven of which will have been favourably positioned inside our swell window.
The only downer on this swell event will be its inconsistency. The enormous travel distance between Victor and Australia will result in only the moderate to higher swell periods making landfall, and due to the strong, pulsing nature of the cyclone, we’ll probably see overlapping swell trains at the coast - each travelling at a different speed.
This makes it difficult to estimate precise swell trends throughout the forecast period, but we’re pretty confident in the overall outlook, which is upwards very slowly from Thursday through Friday and Saturday, peaking into Sunday across South-east Queensland and Northern NSW, then plateauing across Southern NSW from Sunday through Monday.
In fact, it’s likely that we’ll see some form of E’ly groundswell across the East Coast right through until about Wednesday of next week, maybe even early Thursday.
There’s one other forecast aspect that needs to be closely monitored - local winds. A ridge across the coast will maintain northerlies through Thursday and Friday as the swell builds, however a weak trough is modelled to slide up the coast on Saturday, probably not bringing about a defined wind change, but likely disrupting the northerly regime across most coasts (though it may still linger about the Sunshine and possibly Gold Coasts for a bit).
So, how much size will we see?
Once again, I cannot overstate enough just how inconsistent this swell event is going to be. But the weekend pulse should push somewhere into the 3-5ft range across most coasts, albeit with up to twenty minutes between sets.
Some of the more reliable swell magnets up and down the East Coast - particularly Northern NSW - may rake in bigger rogue waves (6ft+) but for the most part it’s looking like a fairly decent, fun summer groundswell, with a little more ooomph than usual. Probably not as useful as a trade swell event - which despite a smaller period and lack of overall strength, usually produces an exponentially higher number of waves per day - but still, yet another quality East Coast swell to chalk up for the summer of 2016.
It’s been pretty good so far, eh?
Choose your forecast from the list below, and stay tuned to our forecast notes as we hone in on the specifics later this week. //BEN MATSON
Sunshine Coast
Gold Coast forecast
Ballina forecast
Yamba forecast
Coffs Harbour forecast
Port Macquarie forecast
Newcastle forecast
Central Coast forecast
Northern Beaches forecast
Eastern Beaches forecast
Cronulla forecast
Wollongong forecast
Ulladulla forecast
Comments
pretty good? Exceptional I reckon.
Struggling to recall a better one.
Agreed....
Wouldn't surprise me if the next one forms up closer, good things come in two;)
I mean the whole summer.
This will go down as the great summer of surf.
It's about Victor isn't it!
I get the feeling this is gonna be similar to that Wed of TC Ula swell. Those that can pounce on local wind variations will score big time as that trough approaches and moves offshore.
agreed. early bird gets the worm.
So being just a bit greedy and with a wicked dose of itchy feet any thoughts on what lies immediately after this swell event. Worth a trip?
With the models showing 4' up to Saturday at the biggest reading. I suppose that is averaging out, reflecting Ben's call of 3-5 feet, which sounds a better call with these things.
So down at Central coast, the 3' could be more like 2-4. I was up there last week and most of the beaches within 10 kms either side of me had crap banks.
But going south from Sydney takes me further from the swell source!
Hhmmm. Going to have to think about this. Might have to come up with a cunning plan.
Baldric!
Gee I know where I'd be heading in this next event. Pics were posted all around of this place last event.
Haven't had a lot of internet access for the last few weeks Don. I suspect you may be talking about a well known spot, not too far from where I stay. Has a nice lookout.
Just because a place fires won't necessarily make it good (for me), and being out in the water trying to steal waves from the hottest surfers on the central coast is not a recipe for satisfaction.
This swell needs something a bit secret. Long lulls, then sets of 3, 4 or more waves. A crowd of 6 might see you get no waves at all. A crowd of 30 is fuggedaboutit.
I have a spot in mind, two actually, one I will probably be on my own, and the other for an afternoon session that will deal with a nor-easter. That will have more people on it, but hopefully I will be sated by then and just be out for some fun.
I stay at the northern end of the central coast. Heading south from there just puts me further into the crowds, and central coast is hardly less crowded than Sydney these days. So I usually head local or north from my starting point.
Cheers though.
Batfink if it's the spot I'm thinking of there's been a fair few people looking around that headland the last swell.. Especially lid riders.
I disagree with you about the NB vs cenny coast. I've had multiple day trips up there scored perfect waves with 3 other blokes out! You gotta know where to look
Cheers Al. Yes, the lidders do like that spot.
It's more a matter of when you get up here. Day trips during non-school hol times you can find some empty waves, but not at the usual suspects, which you won't on the nb (and definitely not Maroubra).
But there aren't any secrets spots up here! :-) Just some spots that get people on them more than others just around the corner.
ever thought about a jet plane?
For a day or two? Not during school holidays. :-)
Need to check winds but If I had cash and time, a trip to Shipwreck Bay in NZ would seem a good option.
Wrong coast. Shipwreck needs big south-wests. I'd be heading east from there.
Wow Stu, you're making Gaz bar up thinking about some of the setups on that coast that will pump in those conditions.
Managed to be in the right place at the right time a few years ago when I was having a Whangaround the North Island.
"Whangaround" will pumpin 'G"
I know where I'm going. short drive. hopefully only a few fishos for company.
Hmmmm, looks to me like the models may have slightly overcooked this one a touch. Not much, but just a touch.
Donw, did this system not move as much west as per predictions, and as shown in the pic above?
Seems to have been shown heading west, but it has been only moving marginally that way.
Is that your take on it?
Also, the models have at times (to my anecdotal observations) sometimes called the swell a bit early. Happy to be corrected, may have just been the two or three times I have looked at them.
To anyone north of Ballina, is anything showing up much?
Roads and Maritime Tweed bar cam showing very little at present.
In the latest comments Don, you say you reckon it might over-perform now, ha.
A man's allowed to change his mind once the swell has been created and he has all the obs/hindcasting available.
Yes, totally.
That's totally cheating as Sheepio would say.
Ps I think I know why you're now excited.. Jason?
;)
Time will tell. I am liking the wind change for sunday
Don't count ya chickens just yet. EC has been the most consistent. GFS is just bouncing around either side of it at the moment.
EC is always better DW;)
Does anyone have a view on how a certain Aussie island a couple hours flight off the coast of Sydney performs under this kind of swell event...???
Wrong swell direction for the best waves on that Island.
Thanks Ben...I thought that might be the case, its beachies to the right and reefs to the left ya.....I assume a SW swell is the one to keep an eye on?
Yep.