Large swell, limited options

Craig Brokensha picture
Craig Brokensha (Craig)
Swellnet Analysis

There's a lot of buzz around the upcoming swell across the East Coast and the excitement is understandable. For Queensland and northern NSW this will potentially be the largest swell event of the last six months. But – and it's a very big BUT - surfing options will be severely limited by local winds.

We're into the second week of an extended easterly trade-swell event, and the scenario we've all been waiting for is set to take place later this week. That being a deepening tropical depression slipping south into the trade-flow, squeezing a strong and stationary high pressure system sitting in the Tasman Sea. The effect will be a supercharging of the current trade swell.

The ideal scenario would be to have this development occurring towards New Zealand, which would result in an organised uniform easterly groundswell impacting everywhere from Noosa to Eden.

Unfortunately the depression will form directly off the East Coast which will result in large, chaotic swell, and strong onshore local winds – more so in Queensland and northern NSW. It's a bank buster by any other name.

At present the swell should play out like this: The South East Queensland and Northern NSW coasts will see a steady uptick in easterly trade-swell from today, becoming larger through tomorrow and further into Thursday as a broad fetch of strengthening easterly winds are projected westward towards the Australian mainland.

Now, throw in the aforementioned tropical depression drifting south into warmer than normal sea surface temperatures (as discussed in this article), and we've got a recipe for large and dangerous surf.

The Quiksilver Pro Snapper Rocks is due to start on February 28th and the talk is already how the bank will fare under this swell. It's currently in good shape, will it survive the onslaught? Swellnet is equally curious how the WSL's two-storey contest structure will hold against the local winds.

The one possible saving grace is that the tropical depression is forecast to slip quickly south resulting in only two days of large surf - Thursday and Friday - before wave heights tail off into the weekend.

Further south, the NSW coast however is likely to see large surf, perhaps around the 10ft range, with favourable offshore south-west winds north of the low's axis and onshore SE winds to the south. This will limit options to protected points and reefs scattered along NSW coast.

Where the lows axis sits is the big question and at this stage it looks to be somewhere off the Mid North Coast but there's still a lot of room for movement regarding the positioning and strength of this dynamic system.

So while there'll be no lack of surf over this coming period, you'll have your work cut out for you trying to find somewhere handling the size and out of the wind. //CRAIG BROKENSHA

Snapper Rocks scaffolding shot by Shayne Nienaber

Comments

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 1:30pm

That 2 storey tower will be fucked and look at the high tide mark in front of the single story....big tides and swell coming that will be a disaster.

sam-r's picture
sam-r's picture
sam-r Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 1:39pm

So long, two storey structure... and good riddance.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 1:44pm

surely they would have that engineered to withstand strong winds?

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 2:30pm

For sure it would be eng and heavily braced ..which transfers the load to the footings....sand base with storm surges ...fuck id hate to be the one signing off on it.
Better to start dismantling some of it now.....restart after the weather has passed and work around the clock to get it up...much easier than being in a salvage situation .

seaman-staines's picture
seaman-staines's picture
seaman-staines Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 4:22pm

I'm pretty sure it's anchored to the rocks at little marli there but I could be wrong, it's been hit by a these sort of things before, I've seen waves running under it all the sand washed away before.

My real question is who the hell pays for this thing? It is massive, the riggers were working all weekend with that big crane there the whole time, I'm pretty sure the structure in the Snapper carpark is a new one, you'd think they'd be trying to pull back costs like these.

50young's picture
50young's picture
50young Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 1:47pm

But a combination of Strong winds, big tides and huge swell may be too much? Wasn't last year they had containers being washed around?

johnson's picture
johnson's picture
johnson Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 2:19pm

I can't wait to see that tower coming down haha!

PointAddict's picture
PointAddict's picture
PointAddict Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 3:14pm

Lots of love for the Comp tower...
Premium marquees have wind resistance around 100km/h...that's single level...without the swell surge.
With paddles they could SUP it ;)

Tim Bonython's picture
Tim Bonython's picture
Tim Bonython Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 4:15pm

XX Frothing!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 4:22pm

Are they kisses Tim? Big kisses?

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 5:36pm

I can't see any good in this swell event. I don't see what all the excitement is about am I missing something?

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 9:26pm

I'm seeing a lot of good coming from this swell. It's all a matter of geography.

jesshema's picture
jesshema's picture
jesshema Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 5:43pm

man that buildings gonna get kicked off as soon as swell hits

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 5:55pm

Interesting if the structure is anchored to the rocks somehow [how ?]

anyone close by that could have a look ? Launch the drones boys.....

Air cond double decker bus in the carpark would be okay for the judges wouldn't it.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 5:51pm

The Joint Typhoon Warning Center have a tropical cyclone formation alert for the system in the Coral Sea..

FORMATION OF A SIGNIFICANT TROPICAL CYCLONE IS POSSIBLE WITHIN A 170 NM RADIUS OF 14.7S 155.3E WITHIN THE NEXT 12 TO 24 HOURS. AVAILABLE DATA DOES NOT JUSTIFY ISSUANCE OF NUMBERED TROPICAL CYCLONE WARNINGS AT THIS TIME. WINDS IN THE AREA ARE ESTIMATED TO BE 25 TO 30 KNOTS. METSAT IMAGERY AT 170500Z INDICATES THAT A CIRCULATION CENTER IS LOCATED NEAR 14.7S 155.3E. THE SYSTEM IS MOVING SOUTH-SOUTHEASTWARD AT 02 KNOTS. 2. REMARKS: THE AREA OF CONVECTION PREVIOUSLY LOCATED NEAR 14.8S 154.5E IS NOW LOCATED NEAR 14.7S 155.3E, APPROXIMATELY 320 NM EAST- NORTHEAST OF WILLIS ISLAND, AUSTRALIA. ANIMATED MULTISPECTRAL SATELLITE IMAGERY DEPICTS A CONSOLIDATING LOW-LEVEL CIRCULATION CENTER (LLCC) WITH IMPROVED CONVECTIVE BANDING. THIS IMPROVED ORGANIZATION IS EVIDENT IN A 162104Z SSMIS IMAGE, WHICH SHOWS DEEP BANDING WRAPPING TIGHTLY INTO A WELL-DEFINED CENTER. A 162321Z ASCAT IMAGE INDICATES A SYMMETRIC WIND FIELD WITH 25 TO 30 KNOTS WINDS. UPPER-LEVEL ANALYSIS REVEALS A MARGINAL ENVIRONMENT WITH MODERATE (15 TO 20 KNOT) VERTICAL WIND SHEAR (VWS) OFFSET BY ENHANCED POLEWARD OUTFLOW. DYNAMIC GUIDANCE INDICATES THAT VWS WILL DECREASE AS THE SYSTEM TRACKS SOUTHWARD. MAXIMUM SUSTAINED SURFACE WINDS ARE ESTIMATED AT 25 TO 30 KNOTS. MINIMUM SEA LEVEL PRESSURE IS ESTIMATED TO BE NEAR 1000 MB. THE POTENTIAL FOR THE DEVELOPMENT OF A SIGNIFICANT TROPICAL CYCLONE WITHIN THE NEXT 24 HOURS IS HIGH.

Tim Bonython's picture
Tim Bonython's picture
Tim Bonython Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 6:13pm

I recon they should just park it about 1000ks directly off the Sydney coastline..
Lets say for 3/4 days!

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 8:26pm

One model does look that way inclined ;)

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 6:17pm

Earthnull site, whats that showing ? site wont load for me.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 7:13pm

I'd scull two litres of Balinese tap water to watch that thing blow out to sea...with Pat Parnell riding it down like George Clooney in The Perfect Storm.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 6:38pm

B.O.M. - just happen to have 2 diagrams 1 showing an elevated building under normal high tide conditions and 1 under storm surge.
Its a goner.

kerry1's picture
kerry1's picture
kerry1 Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 8:06pm

who cares about the buildings. all we should b e caring about is how good and how big this swell is going to be. we deserve it and let's lap it up. If the buildings go so what!! It's a problem for the organisers. build it on a Hotel roof roof off the beach with sight of the break. HAHAHAHAHA!

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 9:11pm

Well if Craig is right and it's a bank buster rather than a clean swell, that will wreck the slight progress in deposition that has restored something approaching reasonable banks locally.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 9:20pm

Yeah, as I mentioned in another thread, banks across the beaches have been great over the last few swell events. Shame to see them go if they do..

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 9:24pm

One can only hope EC is right and GFS is wrong.

mick-free's picture
mick-free's picture
mick-free Wednesday, 18 Feb 2015 at 6:58pm

DWas checking flights for Kirra Thursday but got the flu now so lucky didn't book. Ps skyscanner has the cheapest best flights

bigkiwisi's picture
bigkiwisi's picture
bigkiwisi Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 9:39pm

Kerry, we're have you been?? You been getting into the great swells and conditions we've been enjoying?

Tim Bonython's picture
Tim Bonython's picture
Tim Bonython Tuesday, 17 Feb 2015 at 11:22pm

Well if you wanna chase the swell to the Goldie, rob a bank first. Its about $500 plus return without luggage.

mick-free's picture
mick-free's picture
mick-free Wednesday, 18 Feb 2015 at 7:33am

Tim, theres flights for $160 on virgin and $130 on Tiger if you are that way inclined
Have to book on Zuji and dohop.com though. 4 other deals from ‎$163‎
Virgin Australia Airlines in wed morning out friday night

Flight VA500 (‎Virgin Australia Airlines)‎
Gold Coast ‎(‎OOL)‎-Sydney ‎(‎SYD)

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Wednesday, 18 Feb 2015 at 9:19am

Gee MF are you Tim's Travel Coordinator!!!

Halfscousehalfcockneyfullaussie's picture
Halfscousehalfcockneyfullaussie's picture
Halfscousehalfc... Wednesday, 18 Feb 2015 at 11:44am

looks like quiky pro might be surfing the Burleigh rock break.....

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Wednesday, 18 Feb 2015 at 11:52am

Actually, if you take a look at the current cam/situation at Snapper/Greeny, you will see there's a huge amount of sand currently deposited way out into the bay (further NE from the current rainbow break area). If the forecast NE swell comes to fruition, then it might just shift this sand into a more beneficial location?

Of course the impending large E/SE swell might chew it out first!!!!

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 18 Feb 2015 at 11:55am

Yeah, noticed that, there's a lot of sand sitting out in the bay there!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 18 Feb 2015 at 11:58am

Nah, the effect of large swells from the E'n quadrant is to deposit further sand out on those storm bars. That's a well known phenomena. We'll see lefts at Snapper Rocks after this event.

That wide sand comes in close under calm conditions.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Wednesday, 18 Feb 2015 at 1:44pm
freeride76 wrote:

That wide sand comes in close under calm conditions.

Well it's been there for most of Spring and early Summer Steve....couldn't get much calmer conditions than that!!!

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Wednesday, 18 Feb 2015 at 12:09pm

Swells building quickly just saw a bomb set break at kirra...very wide of the groyne.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Wednesday, 18 Feb 2015 at 12:32pm

2 skis in the water at Kirra amongst the paddle surfers at present .....already breaking the law .....Tow in etiquette tmoro will be interesting.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 18 Feb 2015 at 12:33pm

Yep just saw that as well, and the sweep is insane!

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Wednesday, 18 Feb 2015 at 12:43pm

Very naughty of you Craig to watch CW cam.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 18 Feb 2015 at 12:47pm

Haha, um our Snapper cam looks down to Kirra for 20s or so..

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Wednesday, 18 Feb 2015 at 1:04pm

Is the cam adjustable your end, 60 secs would be better at times .

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 18 Feb 2015 at 1:06pm

Yeah it is, we'll probably just switch it over to sit on Kirra once it gets bigger tomorrow.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Wednesday, 18 Feb 2015 at 1:43pm

Can we all control it from our computers!!!! ;)

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 18 Feb 2015 at 1:45pm

Haha, that would result in anarchy.

50young's picture
50young's picture
50young Wednesday, 18 Feb 2015 at 1:59pm

Talking of Anarchy what's happened to Sheep dog?? Has he packed up his bat and ball? Hope all is well in the Apple Isle Sheepy

bluem00n's picture
bluem00n's picture
bluem00n Wednesday, 18 Feb 2015 at 6:09pm

Maybe he's on a plane heading north???

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Wednesday, 18 Feb 2015 at 6:13pm

I'm sure Sheepy is alright.

But where is Voldomort ie he who shall not be named......Uplift.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Wednesday, 18 Feb 2015 at 6:32pm

I guess I can see why you'd fly to the Goldy to film. But to surf ?
Just been watching it on the Surfcams......fun by yourself maybe , but so crowded .

Don't get me started on Noosa. Take a look for yourself. What are those people thinking ?

It's a glimpse of the future I guess. To when that Reef fuckwit gets his way and surfing is an Olympic sport with every nation participating.

Enjoy every uncrowned session you get people, cause year on year it's going to get worse.

Sorry to bum your trip this arvo.