Watch: The Physics Of Noseriding
"It seems like noseriding shouldn't work," muses Namaala Slabb, the protagonist in this quirky little film. "Like Vegemite and peanut butter. But it does work: the proportions just have to be right."
I can't imagine any sandwich where Vegemite and peanut butter work well together, irrespective of their proportions, but then I can't noseride either, so I'll take Namaala's word for it.
Produced by Lauren Hill, this ten-minute film opens the textbook to understanding why the noseride works - had you ever heard of the Coanda Effect? I hadn't - but then just as quickly invites viewers to toss all the learnin' aside and simply dig the feeling.
Says Lauren: “I made ’The Physics of Noseriding’ for folks who appreciate the subtler arts of the surfing experience. Those who want to better understand how the magic levitation of a proper noseride is possible."
“I hope people feel inspired to follow their own curiosities, and to go surfing – especially to get out there and hang hip!"
Comments
This isn't doing any favours for the "wear a legrope" forum.
Edit: I just flicked through to the end and they show a couple of "less skilled" surfers with a leash on. But lets be honest, they are not getting invited to the super hip parties with craft beer dripping from their moustaches
Sound like hipster jealousy. The worst kind of jealousy. But don't worry bro, your invite is in the mail.
Uh ohhh - cue leggie debate!
Was a nice little clip.
That was so cool seeing the water displace over the tail from above on that red board and lock it in. Displacement vs planing.
Good longboards don't lose their boards.
She's either being completely reckless and inconsiderate or there's nobody in front of her.
patagonia opening up to a law suit. ha
Cool video and explanation.
The displacement v planing terminology is a bit of a stretch of the physics though. Once a Mal is on a wave, it's no longer at a displacement speed. There wouldn't be much downforce from the coanda effect if it was going that slow.
Yes, my thoughts exactly.
Science was very rubbery.
What longboards all i seen was well fitted Bikinis ...and no legropes
YAWN
I’m sure there was another video called the physics of noseriding. It was a while ago some old Californian guy that explaining the design of the noserider and why they work. Basically he says on the tail it bottom rolls up and flattish on the deck. Like an aeroplane wing this creates down force which sucks the board into the water, while at the nose the deck rolls down creating the reverse of the tail which is lift and lifts the nose out of the water. That’s why you see the tail of the board buried in the lip of the wave. It needs to have that suction to hold the weight of the surfer up. I'm not sure I explained that very well. But I can’t find the vid so if someone out there knows of it it would be appreciated if you could put a link up.
Warm water dreaming.
The best feeling for some folks; (after making a deep tube ride) is a real nose ride ; only the wave before you......
Nose-rides benefit from long clean point breaks, which are busy these days.
Helps if you have a good body guiding a log, to distract the drop'inners & burnt dudes.
PS. Would like to see some Bundjalung canoe surfing & paintings one day.
I've never wanted to do anything more than I want to do that.
Why the Play School voice?
I seriously couldn't listen to that voice for more then 10 seconds... uugghhhh
2:48 for any grommies or immature adults such as myself, folding cutoff carpet pieces folding a corner into a pit shape- with lego man on a surfboard or bodyboard- with the corner of carpet folding into the tube- half assed attempt of mimicking a shockwave and foamball in the pit will teach a grommy a lot about how to go through a deep tube..Even if the folding carpet into a dream wave pit might be squarer or hollower than many waves...Still folding carpet into pits using lego man going through tubes and around foamballs is a great hobby as a grommy..but going through many reef tubes in real waves and running into foamballs at the middle height or bottom- then realizing gravity makes the top the easiest path to making it through and punching through foamballs on many reefbreaks.
Desert point at 3- 8 foot a few times taught this.
Promoting a video of reckless self-absorbed leggieless hipster drongos now Stu? Good to see you've come around to it
Drongos? These women are DANGEROUS.
This is a warning to everyone.
"Women are dangerous" says Swellnet
Could make for a good beach grit headline haha
I hope patagonia also paid for your rib insurance policy.
What’s more likely to cause injury: a legrope or no legrope.
Vaccine or….. ah nevermind.
My first board in '65 was a 9'6" log and you were forced to run up and down to keep it level, thank fuck for the shortboard revolution. Now when I see these hipsters vogueing and posing with arms waving around above their heads I feel like sticking my fingers down my throat. The only reason I can see for riding a log in this day and age is if you haven't got the patience and or skill to ride a real board. That clip is hard to unsee.
First Nation Trimmers! Respect Local breaks & Peoples!
swellnet dedication to Namaala
Captain Cook couldn't locate Coconuts for his crew along the Oz East Coast... So What?
Anyone happening upon an alien Seed or Pod on a beach & sees it take root to become #1 resource!
Then any would wanna track down the Nirvana of this Holy Grail...(re: Precious > Hooked need more!)
Ok! So How best to examine & surf these tides that gifted yer people?
Ye Olde School of Wave Trimming Hipsters (Croc Intro) courtesy of Qldurr Steve Irwin.{rip}
Australian First Nation tidal (Lunar surfers) Learnt Surf skills from Tidal Surfing Pods & Crocodiles.
Basically just moved in on the Croc's fav Surf Spots to ply an intercontinental sea trade.
Can surf by the Moon or simply follow the Crocs to arrive on same beaches or navigate for bounties.
Yes! Crocs will Surf to different shores for Food / Mating / Laying Eggs (100's of Surf Safaris)
So we know that Humans can & must surf to co exist with apex predator! (eg: To southern China)
We know of Standing Up river Surfers from Australia to China > A trade Route of 5,000 yrs
https://www.nationalgeographic.com/animals/article/100607-science-animal...
Tidal Voyage starts punting from up river camp riding out the tide.
Surfers need to navigate by rising to feet & trim their highly wave responsive raft while gaining speed.
River mouth is treacherous & claims many as Surfers need to also hook the sweep to chosen destination
Yes! Surfing tide out then in, timing change of tide marrying a swell direction requires expert trimming.
This often requires hooking into the line-up to swing with the inside Coastal sweep during The Big Wet.
Many Rafters lose their lives being towed out & others wiping out in the mouth or on headlands.
Important to note, history records longest surf rides during biggest "Seasonal" tides & storms.
Just as Sail Craft needs Steady Strong Trade Winds so too needing Bigger Tides for surfing further!
Punters can then remain seated surfing a wide powerful tidal front at steady but forceful pace.
Bodysufers can't waste a drop of energy so milk the tiniest tide/wave trail...explains tbb's tidal affinity!
Seated because feet can get wedged in Raft...minimize the risk by rising only as seas rise up!
Simply go with the flow punting any obstacles & tying up where need be & repeating.
Tides can crush a tethered raft if rider is not clocking Moon & Ocean tides...many died while asleep.
1829 East Coast Convicts copied & surfed from Upper Tweed to North Straddie thru GC WSR lineups.
Last of these tidal surfers finished surfing / tiding / punting Tweed Sugar Cane around 1910 or so.
As the wave enters the Estuary the Intercontinental tidal surfers need to get up to speed real fast.
Long wide tidal front narrows to fastest of any in our ocean as it enters the narrowest river mouth.
Surfers must ready by getting to feet to survey being sucked into Hazardous riptide Entry.
The Gold Coast Seaway Mouth was log jammed (Timbered) from dozens of failed Kook's Wipeouts.
Here's where most payloads are lost...
Again the surfer must keep the wave head, surfing into desired Bay / River / Creek.
Depending on choice of Waterway a tidal wave (Bore) will slow or race & rise & fall.
The winding riverbank shape alters bathymetry reflected in the everchanging Wave power & shape.
We see that power devastating the river banks.
First Nation surfers would need to trim their Raft to keep the wave or risk the Jungle trek to the Village.
This would require the Standing Option to gain max / quick weight transference to hold the wave.
Surfer can't transfer enough weight from seated or prone position & would lose wave real fast...Crocs!
Dare say these flexible raft payloads required the most expert weight transference in Surfcraft history.
Ya get one shot with Prized Cargo in keeping a changing wave to up river Village or die!
(Job Description) Roughly 10x SE Asia Bores up to 9m high surfing 140kms up River at 40km speed.
[Factcheck] WSL pros cry & collapse of exhaustion after one minute into their 700m Wave Pool ride.
Wave Pool is also the Longest (Weight Transference) Trimming period on WSL Long Board Tour.
[ 9:02:38 - 9:03:30 ] Brilliant Longest Log Ride you'll likely ever see by a leashed Surfer [11] Called!
All gonna luv this sweet smooth ride...get stoned watchin'...No Claim..but she blows her own mind!
[Don't Panic] Click [Watch on YouTube] or 2021 Ranch Longboard Classic
Tandem Passenger / Seated / Prone variations reduces yer Wave trim options & increases wipeout odds.
Only Solo Raft / River surfers held intercontinental waves > 2 or more for tide only or down river waves.
Therefore High end merch > Drug Running would be the payloads.
We're talking sly grog & Tobacco surfers island hopping tidal waves up to over 3,500 year ago.
All early trade routes are Vice Driven Secret Men's Business > Pituri Road was Oz first Export Triangle!
Oz First Nation had plenty of Vice > 100's of brews & Strains of Wacky Backy.
Surfing skills dictate these surfers may have towed a prized sample stash & return with prized Merch!
Any crew here could tow a secure parcel on a continuous wave better than a tandem passenger.
In fact if any passenger was indeed prized cargo, they would be better immobilized..(re: A sex slave!)
That's the origins of Stand up Surfing / Trimming ...how far back we're yet to research past 5,000 years.
Yes! Where in Luck...tbb can share some excellent #1 Raft Trimming with a Trailing Train to example.
As raft picks up speed the Brilliant Trimming Skills are on show!
Dare say these surfers could master a similar point break with massive cargo.
These 3 Surf like they're riding a giant Crocodile with Head & writhing body with long Tail
East Coast First Nation Canoes / Rafts / Hand Planes / Logs even spear poling across rivers
A Wave landing on a wide flat beach also requires weight transference as wave breaks then to shore.
However! We know of Tandem Weight transference Surf Skills while Fishing in wavezone.
As one Surfer grapples Fish the other counter-levers by hanging weight off surfcraft to keep afloat.
From wave zone the Surfers hunt & dive / cast nets from surfing craft onto Prey
Same counterweight skills are required for Surfing a Larger side bound Catch ashore...
Young lads also test rolling & diving skills in smaller canoes
Ferrying of large numbers of tribe across River Mouths
tbb mentioned Log Surfing...usually across River Mouths but also surfing Rapids.
&t=3sBurling : 'Surfing out the dinged up knotted Logs'
Yes! Lucky! Again some Brilliant Rotational Trimming by The Ultimate Hodad Hipster
[20:40-21:05] Hipster Surf Flick & Folkie Whistling Burler Tune.
See: 5 log raft (dozen trimming maneuvers in 20 secs) Slow it down & check his river dance routine!
Pike-split 5 pack-Hop-1 log-reverse twin pike-360-spinner-barrel roll-pike-walks-stalls-claim! Legend!
Bodysurfing relies 100% on weight transference / senses.
Tip of yer finger in the power source like a needle in a groove to soothe the 7 seas.
tbb's longest barrels at snapper were kiting off and on a finger tip...whole world in the palm of yer hand.
Body is suspended above the wave face hovering at speed encapsulated in a pure weightless state
Similar to flying a kite whilst flying around in circles = (Nose Riding for us mere Unfathomobiles!)
Infinite transference-Inflate/Deflate/Shorten/Extend craft/s at will & morph a new surfcraft each second.
Can Surf Cycle or Walk, surf on back, shoulder, Saddle knee & Head or hip or Fingers & toes! Anything!
tbb said crafts...Yes! Can Surf each Body Portion individually / Combo different parts-angles or Whole!
Bodysurf section dedicated to top NB mate {rip} Prof Neville De Mestre...Maths of Body Surfing...
SLSA 10 World Titles 39 Oz Titles 60 Qld Titles
https://sls.com.au/vale-neville-de-mestre/#:~:text=Obtaining%20his%20Bro....