Flyer: Busted Up and Restless
"So how's the injury going?"
I've been getting asked this a lot, both online and in person during my infrequent trips out the door. Up till a few days ago I offered a diplomatic reply - people don't want to hear about the aches and pains of a self-inflicted injury - but the last few days I could say "better" and really mean it.
Conversation then usually turns to the surf, that's just the way it goes around here, and the tone will change depending upon on the diplomacy of the person I'm speaking to. My polite friends will assure me the surf hasn't really been that good, while the ratbags will delight in reminding me what I'm missing.
Thing is, I work for Swellnet - forecasts, cameras, reports - I know exactly what I've been missing.
Strangely, I haven't yet been that bothered. Not even on that Saturday two weekends back when every beach from Stanny to Shitties and beyond all pumped.
It's one thing to miss a swell when you're upright and healthy but obliged to be elsewhere: a friend's wedding, an exam, or behind your work desk. That's when the anxiety builds, you get restless, think of excuses, then weigh up the the fall out of blowing it off and going surfing.
It's something else when your bones haven't yet knitted together and pulling on a wetsuit is an impossible task, leave alone laying on a board.
I can already sense the challenge approaching. It's almost four weeks since I busted myself up, but like I said, I'm feeling better, the wave models are glowing, and I've got a new board out in the shed.
Yeah, I'm getting restless.
- Stu
Second time's the charm for Yulex
Released as an alternative to toxic neoprene, Yulex organic rubber hit the market in 2015, receiving a muted response. Recently, Yulex got a second chance at a first impression, and this time they made it count. Wetsuits may never be the same again. Read More >
John John Florence: ‘I’m Not Anti-Anything. I’m Pro-Hawaii.’
This week the New York Times ran a longish piece on John John competing under the US flag at the Olympics, as opposed to the Hawaiian flag which is protocol in surfing. What seems straightforward - the Olympics has always grouped athletes by nation - allows the author to explore the history of Hawaii's annexation by the US, and its modern tensions. Read More >
URBNSURF Sydney to begin construction later this year
This week, URBNSURF locked in dates for their long-awaited Sydney tub - work begins later this year, completion later next - but will it be bigger, smaller, or the same size as its Melbourne cousin? I've emailed the question to a few crew at URBNSURF with no reply. If you know someone there, get them to contact Swellnet. Cheers...Read More >
Watch: Maps of Home // Action Edit
OK, a few short clips to end this Flyer. Firstly, a stripped back version of John John's recent movie: Maps of Home. Read More >
Watch: Lost Track Atlantic - Episode 2 // trailer
And secondly, the trailer for Part 2 of Torren and Ishka's Excellent Adventure, where they skip Europe for the roping rights of Morocco and Toz gives us some of that graceful front foot forward tube style. Comes out early June. Read More >
Comments
New board in the shed...do tell...
6'0" asymm quad from Dylan Parese with one inch offset fins and tail.
In the last 18 inches, where the asymm is, it's similar to what I've been riding for a few years, though with minor changes in the thickness and foil of the tail, but the planshape and rocker - especially the forward rocker - is fairly different.
I’ve never ridden an asymm...fins further back on toe side rail...does this affect backhand surfing? Designed for mostly rights?
G'day Stu, awhile back I hurt my ribs being pitched by the lip on a good sized day at Winki, nothing broken but I did damage some costal cartilage. I'll spare you the details of my symptoms/treatment etc as mine were minor compared with what you must be going through. What I want to say thou is what got me back in the water earlier than expected was a padded vest, while it felt a little awkward on it worked a treat. All the best.
Cheers Guy. I've got a Patagonia impact vest with foam inserts. Reckon that's my ticket to getting back in the water.
I feel your pain mate, I’m 3 months and counting.. been the toughest thing I’ve ever faced.. lucky I enjoy photography so been getting down every swell on crutches taking pics of the boys.. it’s not the same but still feels like i’m part of the action!
Far out, three months, and right through autumn too. That's tough.
Like you, I'm gonna at least make some use of the good waves by photographing them. Earlier this week I sent off my digital SLR to get fixed and hoping to get it back before the coming east swell.
Keep an eye on the Wave of the Day credits...
different approaches for different people.
some like to turn their back on it and pretend it ain't happening for their own sanity.
others like to keep an eye on it, take photos whatever and stay connected.
I like to stay connected.
good luck with the healing process Stu.
maybe you could let the readers know if you find out anything interesting/effective as far as rehab/re-entry into the ocean goes?
Thanks Steve.
While I was in hospital and during my first week at home, I was getting advice from photographer Ray Collins who broke four ribs at the Verge in February. Bit of a horrorshow for ol' Ray: got bounced, then almost rescued by Jacko Forbes on a ski 'cept Ray couldn't cling on, so he got pinballed right through the reef while in a world of pain.
His recovery was tracking approximately two months ahead of mine so he could tell me what to expect. Wasn't always good news, but it was good to know, get prepared etc.
Once better, I might have a more formal chat with Ray and see what comes of it.
In one week I will officially hit the one year mark Stu. Started with a bit of back pain, then back surgery, followed by shoulder reconstruction number 2. I have ostracised myself almost literally with my head firmly buried in a hole in the ground. Gave up taking photos after being abused for taking photos of crew going through a metal gate at the height of covid that said “closed due to covid” (there is another way to get to the same spot you lazy fucks). Apparently people don’t like being caught doing the wrong thing during a global pandemic.
That's fucking rough, keep your head up mate
Tomorrow is a new day. Each day you draw breath is a special opportunity and has special opportunities even if your mind can’t quite see them at times, even if your hurting. Wait until you get a brain tumour and told one or two years to live and surgery leaves you struggling with changed mind and body. Nothing is forever, things keep changing. We should know as much from our beloved ocean. She is beautiful whether left alone or ‘pin balling’ us through the rocks. Yet I still keep coming back to her. So I know something of this frustration with mind and body and even sense of mind/body/self identity which keeps changing. But it’s great material for our growth and perspective and builds understanding. Thanks for sharing your human vulnerabilities Stu. Take my hat off to you!
Stu, just gone 18 months post ACL op. Only leading with that so you know I've got skin in the game. Have oscillated between freeride's two extremes, neither of which feel satisfactory. Some days resign myself to probably maybe never surfing again, at least not to the standard I was at before and indulge in nostalgia of 30+ years of amazing waves. Other days can't help myself and paddle out with the grom for some paddling and a few 'cobra' waves.
It's a tough road either way. I personally find the mental side of it harder. I've had plenty of time to think on it. There's lots of factors; age, whether you injured yourself surfing or otherwise, long-term versus short term recovery, fixed or open time frame on getting back in the water etc.
Could go on, and maybe will another time, but...
Rest, don't rush back too early and do the rehab. What was it the Duke said, Just take your time - wave comes.
Hey braudulio, I’m thinking from a comment on another thread that you surf at ‘bra. I’ll keep a look out for a hobbling man heading for a body bash whenever I’m there.
As for not being able to surf to a standard you did before, don’t worry, even those of us without injuries are in that class. Age catches up with ya. Getting used to not being able to surf as well as you used to is a key to longevity in surfing. On the other hand, Phil Mickelson won the US PGA the other day at 50, so we can have our good days.
Hey @batfink, yeah busted me. Not too much body bashing going on of late sadly. Am under physios orders to keep things to a brisk walk, on flat ground. Don't ask. But can be seen trying not to hobble along the promenade most lunchtimes.
I hear you on the age thing and to be honest had already started to try to accept that before the injury. Although the fact I was stubbornly continuing to ride 30L boards may make that statement complete BS! But what I am concerned about is getting back to even directly pre-injury standard. Sounds like massive ego but not entirely sure I want to be another middle-aged kook clogging up the line-up. Have spent significant time out of the water before and always bounced back but this time feels different. Not sure I can climb the hill again after what is looking like 2 years plus out of the water.
Next time, just get busted up in November, not May. Rookie error.
Hang in there, mate. Heal properly. Don't be tempted to rush it.
Mtb has become so popular in last few years. It’s a blast for sure but many people are finding out that crashes can see a fair bit of down time and sometimes longer term implications that impact on daily activity including surfing. With bone mineral density decreasing rapidly > 45 years, crashes can have bigger consequences for the more mature rider. In the last 2 years the number of mtb riders presenting at casualty departments has increased dramatically. Keep riding and heres to a
everyone keeping the rubber down and many post ride surfs
Low bone density is rarely a problem for men. I’ve been doing loads of the scans last couple of years and can only recall two men with osteoporosis- one had been on corticosteroids e.g prednisone for years, and the other was a retired jockey ( low body weight is a big risk factor).
Typical patient with osteoporosis will be age 70+ female of healthy / underweight range, often with history of early menopause.
Hey barreldogs. How's your back? I'm 4 months post laminectomy and discectomy. I'm hoping to surf again at some stage. Still getting a bit of pain in my bum and my foot is numb. At 2 year hopefully you're feeling ok.
Get into the collagen Stu help those old bones
Thanks for the info, I thought collagen only helped your skin but a quick google search shows you’re right.
Had open heart in early 40's, not lifestyle related, rare congenital thing not worth going into here. Was very fit at time as was based in Indo surfing ulu daily, training BJJ and had just got back from 3 weeks in ments when first symptom. Anyway rib repair took 6 months before could surf again. Was weird as felt ok after 3-4 months but if tried to do push up or lie on board pain too much. Very frustrating and felt like it would never get better. Got pretty depressed at times. Then at 6 months it seemed like over night it was good to go again, first surf at Kuta beach felt kooky, but then came good and was back surfing ulu a week later, then did a ments trip and rehab complete. Did all the fitness kind of stuff could do while not surging, lots of skipping. Anyway reason for rant is that with rib injury they can take a long time to heal, and they need to be back too 100% for surfing, so be patient...
Quick recovery...
The only advice I can offer is that it will pass and that now is the time to get all those fiddly, time-consuming jobs done. Not the leaking gutter or the old fence, but the family finances, house insurance and other boring but essential stuff that we all keep procrastinating about, largely because it's much better to go for a paddle.
I had 13 years of not surfing...well, not really surfing...with 3 disc prolapses from the age of 33 to 46. I missed that sublime intersection of youthful strength and endurance with wisdom and judgement. I body surfed for 6 years and SUPd for 7, made all the harder with a surfing wife. Sold boards I now wish I'd kept. But I found it was much better to maintain a connection to the ocean than turn away. Even now the back issues aren't behind me and I only really manage them. A premature intro to a 'new normal', as it were. I don't try and pull into big barrels anymore, or surf much when it's over 6ft, for fear of a bad wipeout taking me away from surfing again.
The ability to surf gets taken away from more people than we realise. It's a bit like that new car you get and then all of a sudden you see them everywhere on the road. One mate, a complete natural in the water and dedicated to it, picked up parasites in Gland and has been incredibly sick for the past 5 years and is now stoked to ride tiny waves in the times he's not too bad. Another fell off a roof the other day from 8m up and landed on compacted gravel, breaking his pelvis in 3 places and shattering the daylights out of the wrist which broke the fall and possibly saved him.
You'll pull through. Keep calm and carry on.
And invest in the rehab.
good call Tango, no-one knows whats around the corner so appreciate it while you got it.
Absolutely FR, surfed all my life then about 10 months or so ago, my back basically gave in. Literally overnight surfing stopped, and I can relate heavily to the mental toll that others have mentioned.
Thankfully a long time commenter on here generously set me on the right rehab path and things are looking up for sure.
Another thing that helped me, was not putting a time limit on recovery, just let it do it's thing.
All the best Stu
MB sure is generous Linez. Did the same for me, was feeling like I could surf again after a couple of months of follow his routine. Unfortunately I tore meniscus and had an arthroscope 4 months ago and I still can't use the hyperflexion bench due to knee pain. Gutted..... 2 Autumns now
Are you back in the water yet?
Hi 82, sorry to hear about your setback, I've actually been wondering how you are doing.
Yeah, MB has been incredibly generous. I'm very grateful. I'm not back in the water yet, but it won't be long. I've ordered a new board as I sold the others thinking it was game over..
Hope you heal up quickly and get back into the routine, we know it works
That's great news mate good to hear
Theres some horror stories about Parasites out there can you find out the type your mate had and his treatment ?
I'll try and find out next time we have a yarn, udo. Had it on my phone but it crashed a month ago and lost the lot.
It's a parasite which lays its eggs under the skin and gets right through your system in the bloodstream, even getting into his brain at one point. He has medicos in the family and great access to specialists, but it was only after several years of dead ends and a lucky referral to a specialist who'd worked in Thailand or such that it got properly diagnosed. The only treatment which seems to have made a significant difference is a particular drug, the name of which escapes me, but it also knocks him around like a mack truck. But the beastie's eggs can remain dormant for 9 or 10 years, which is just bloody horrible for him as he needs regular treatments to get in front of the curve and kill them off before the juveniles reach maturity to reproduce. It's one of those things that mounts a winning argument against the concept of benevolent creation. He's an incredible bloke to have pulled through this far (as is his amazing wife).
I can't imagine he's the only surfer who ever picked it up - don't run around in bare feet in the bush at G-land or do the things they advise against - so I'll post it when I find out.
Cheers tango...i cringe when i see vids of Asher Pacey and others walking barefoot in Sri lanka etc.. i always do the full worm treatment after any O.S trip
And any Gut parasites they can be picked by eating vegetables after being rinsed under a indo or wherever tap..
https://www.back2health.net.au/this-brisbane-family-all-had-gut-parasite...
http://www.back2health.net.au/parasites-the-good-bad-and-ugly/
I'm almost a month in on a surfing injury . Arm went into a hole in the reef whilst getting sucked over the falls upside down at the local dunny bowl. Dislocated the elbow, tearing the tendon off the bone and taking the bone with it at the attachment point .
Can't surf or drive so I can empathise with you there Stu.
Mountain bikes fast on trails with lots of trees or rocks may seem a world away from surfing chopes, the right, shippies or other heavy slabs in terms of injury potential.
But hit a tree at speed and the force is probably way higher than bouncing off reef at a slab. Bullets shot into water lose their deadliness in a matter of metres due to the cushioning of water. Air not so much.
So as those trees whizz by and you slide a bit round a corner you are taking injury potential risks that you might not consider when surfing.
..... and probably way more often. Just mentally does not seem that way until you stack badly.
Scoopmaster my comment was not about osteoporosis or bone density it was about bone mineral density and the physiological changes that occur in the human body from adult hood to death. These changes involve a decline of biological functions (cardiovascular, hormonal, envoys system. Ya da yada yada and the musculoskeletal system. This includes a loss of bmd from gradual decline around age 40 to more rapid loss in 50s and 60s. Everyone’s bones become weaker and more prone to fracture as they age. In some people the loss of bmd is excessive and they develop osteoporosis. One in 5 people in Au over 75 have osteoporosis and it’s often not diagnosed until a fracture. As bones become more frail as we age they are going to fracture easer and take longer to heal. Dr John booth
That's a nice looking new board. Hope you're scoring all the good sets mind surfing it :)
The last broken rib I had was from a hipster's longboard who thought he was too cool to wear a leg rope. The Doc said six to eight weeks and I'll be fine. By the fourth week I could fart without pain and at the six week mark I'd decided I was ready to surf again. I still had a little bit of discomfort but went surfing anyway - big mistake! After an hour or so of fun waves I was back in the pain zone. Everything was fine until it wasn't and then I spent another eight weeks out of the water healing again.
This is my was of suggesting that you enjoy your break from surfing and don't try and return too soon.
Is the hipster back in the water yet, morg?
Sorry, couldn't help myself.......
He was a total tool. Any loose board coming my way happily get directed towards the rocks these days :)
I'd class that as let off very lightly.
Heard a story today from a bloke who had a leashless log fin come under his wetty shoulder panel, up his neck and sliced his cheek. Needed internal and external stitches. How it didn't slice his neck is a mystery. The owner of said craft offered "Gee, sorry, that'll need stitches" and paddled off. But I digress......
Good points everyone & Tango great to mention getting other things done and keeping calm and carrying on. I've mentioned my tale here before so no need to go into it again suffice to say that after 6 months out, that first walking out into 1/2ft waves at Roady, watching that line of clear energy roll past me, was total bliss. It was just incredible.
When you think about it, continuing to surf for life requires a great amount of physical condition, much moreso than demanded for other life paths. We all do really well to keep coming back.
When I did my knee about 10 years ago I was out of the water for a few months and that's when I spent more time behind the lens. Got a better camera and really enjoyed still being part of the action as a couple have mentioned above, getting photos of the swells/friends.
No matter how injured, I'd not be able to ignore what's happening down beachside. Can't wait to see the snaps Stu.
no pressure. but they better be as good as Craigos.
Rotator cuff tear in January , didn't get it looked till major tear after surf in march . Operated on last week , 6 months rehab with probably 9-12 months before I can surf again. Pretty much the only surf injury in over 50 years makes it slightly better to stomach but still super bummed that I'm gonna miss a year . Byron Shire local so I know I've missed a great late summer/autumn season. Hopefully the shoulder will be strong and resilient .
I did the same a few years ago. Happened while surfing, landed into the flats awkwardly hit the sand and did my rotator cuff and broke two ribs in two places. I didn't need surgery but was out of the water for at least 6 months and as it didn't heal very well (I couldn't raise my arm above my head or reach around to my back) I needed an additional 6 months of physio twice a week after that. To be honest, my surfing has never really been the same since then.
Also, quite a whiles back, did my MCL while surfing again and that was another 5 months out. Happened a week out from a planned trip to Hokkaido and pretty much nailed my snowboarding season.
They've been my worst two injuries in 40+ years of surfing.
Sorry to hear of your injury streak. Shoulders can be tricky, my injury meant only one solution surgery.I cannot comprehend how seriously painful an injury like rotator and broken ribs together would have been . And just looking at the cams today ... it sucks .
Hey Brevil, what was your road to diagnosis? Asking as I hurt my shoulder 6 months ago, went to GP he ordered ultrasound which showed inflamed bursa and frayed supraspinatus tendon. Was then sent for cortisone injection and shoulder felt great for about a month but has slowly returned.
Have been doing physio exercises but am worried tendon may have a tear which requires surgery.
Was yours complete or partial tear and was it shown in MRI or ultrasound?
mate do yourself a favour...forget cortisone injections which will weaken your muscles in your shoulder........stem cell injections or prp......do your research...
https://www.surecell.com.au/orthopaedic-stem-cell-therapy-2
Full tear in the end , probably partial at first but I didn’t get treatment or diagnosis till to late . Went with a 5000 operation specialist shoulder doctor at Pindara . Had a bursa on the other shoulder 2 years ago and cortisone once solved that . Good luck and seek specialised advice .
Cheers, Brevil. Just had my ear drilled so out of the water for a couple of months anyway. Just not sure who to see now for shoulder going forward. I don’t have much faith in my gp.
And MRI with an injured shoulder was a horrific experience I wouldn’t wish on anyone , but it showed the full injury
just overuse or did you injure it ?
combination of 50+ years of sports ,surfing , lifting black box's and double bass playing , and an overactive last 5 years of surfing in my 50's. Second time injury in March felt like my arm got ripped outa the socket. Shoulder surgery they say is the worst and most painful. It is
All the best Clive
Take note Fellas - Book in now !
My word.
I had a kind of similar heart surprise a few years ago just before a trip to the Ments. Puts the wind up you, shall we say.
All the best, speedy recovery etc. If it's any consolation, my old man had a 4x about 6 years ago and hasn't looked back.
jeezuz.
I might have to have a few extra sessions to make up for the injuries on here. Counting my blessings still. Being able to get in the water, surf or body surf, is an incredible privilege. Not to be taken for granted.
And, as always, good luck to Stu and others recovering from injuries. Take your time, do your work, imagine that next wave you paddle into and work towards that.
Consciously practicing gratitude is an excellent routine to get into