The devo-lution of the surfboard
Surfboard design has rarely, if ever, proceeded smoothly with each incremental improvement gradually creating ever higher performance. More typically it suddenly lurches off in a new direction in which much can be hoped for, but often at the price of an initial period of uncertainty and loss of performance. At the advanced end of the skill continuum the adjustments happen quickly. More time in the water and better access to shaper/designers, complement existing skills so progress is rapid. At the other end of the continuum things are different as surfers of modest ability struggle to master the techniques demanded by the new designs.
Historically by 1966, the malibu had evolved into such a sophisticated piece of equipment that there really was nowhere else to go with it at that time. The shortboards that replaced it were of highly variable quality and the surfing on them initially lacked the sophistication that surfers like Mickey Dora, Phil Edwards and Midget Farrelly had demonstrated on their malibus. But it was the most intense ongoing period of innovation in surfing history and it was the period when the story of modern surfing really began. What is easily forgotten is that while most of us were thrilled at the new equipment, there was a whole cohort of slightly older surfers who never made the transition and gave surfing away.
Over the four year period to 1970 boards went from an average length of over nine foot to an average length below six foot and surfing itself went from riding surfboards to riding waves. Board lengths swung back over 7 foot after Rolf Aurness out smarted the rest by surfing a 6'10" at Johanna to win the 1970 World Title. The reality was that the majority of the sub 6ft boards of that era simply could not handle the energy of long period swells so boards, with few exceptions, stayed healthily over 6ft for several decades.
It is only in the last few years that the majority of surfers, are once again riding boards under 6 foot. The advances in design and technique have over come the limitations of those early short boards, but that is a generalisation that cannot conceal two fundamental truths about boards of that size. The first is that design becomes more critical with every inch that is removed from the length. The second is that short boards are technically unforgiving. So as in that previous episode, many surfers are being left behind. Many older surfers have had the sense to realise that they will never successfully make the transition and have kept their board lengths more or less were they were. Ironically then it is more often the younger surfers who are struggling.
The reasons for those struggles are related to the reasons stated before. As boards get shorter, design becomes more critical and it doesn't take any great powers of observation or analysis to recognise that there are many surfers currently severely limited by their equipment. The simplest way of describing the flaws of these boards is to say that they are not sophisticated enough. Factors such as poorly proportioned planshapes, simplified rockers and questionable placement of the fins all contribute to sluggish unstable performance most often characterised by a lack of drive through turns. To be fair these boards are rarely from the more established manufacturers and even those producing them I suspect, are just meeting customer demand for more individual designs.
Another dimension of this problem occurs further down the skill continuum where the board would be fine for a more competent surfer but is beyond the skill level of the surfer actually riding it and in this area the established manufacturers are involved. As anyone who has worked in a surf shop will tell you, with all the goodwill in the world, some people just will not listen to advice. They want that model and only that model regardless of its suitability. Now, a challenging board for a young committed surfer can lift their performance, but for an occasional, marginally competent surfer they are simply not suitable.
So watch any break you choose for a while and count the well surfed waves. You will be disappointed even if you set the standard as simply completing an appropriate set of manoeuvres over the surfable length of the wave. In the circumstances it is hard to avoid the conclusion that the standard of the whole cohort of middling surfers, say those just below competition standard, has actually seriously declined and, parallel to that, the associated conclusion that a very significant proportion of the surfing population would benefit from adding an inch or two to their next board. //blindboy
Comments
BB are you implying that the shorter the board, the more skatey it is and so harder to control for the average punter?
or perhaps that a shorter board is harder to ride because it doesn't provide momentum on the shoulder so in turn, requires more skill to ride it in the pocket?
Profoundly disagree with your conclusions BB.
Board design for the average rec surfer was WAY more unsuitable for most of the 90's with thin, highly rockered shortboards.
The emergence and popularity of fish/alternative and hybrid designs all offer more float and stability than the typical high performance surfboards of the 90's/2000's.
Take two high selling surfboards: the hypto krypto and baked potato. They are stable, easy to ride surfboards. Average volume has increased even as length has decreased. HIgher volume boards are easier to ride, there's no question about that.
Go read the forums here and see what people are riding.
I agree with you that the average standard of surfing in the Urban areas is decreasing. That's mostly due to the fact that there are less waves for people to ride and there are more and more lower skilled surfers who simply don't have the time or committment to surfing of previous times.
In country areas the standard of surfing is far higher than in the cities for the inverse of those reasons. More time to surf, less distraction and more committed surfers.
Agree - focus has been on developing more forgiving boards better suited for less than ideal conditions giving the average joe some real options for when the surf isnt 6+ and super hollow, or perfect JBay or whatever. I see some many people on longer boards in small surf where the board literally doesn't fit on the face - it makes sense to go shorter to fit the waves so long as that is compensated with other forgiving characteristics (i.e. lower rocker and fuller rails mostly).
I'd only say that its not inherently the case (especially if you are old and unfit) that shorter will be better.
totally agree , the average performance (not ability) in the middle 50% has regressed with the reduction below 6'. They may think they are ripping but one vid of themselves soon brings reality.
As BB stated just sit on any beach for a while take the top 25% out and the bottom 25%
the remaining 50% have gone backwards either in wave catching ability or outright performance based on current surfing trends.
I'm with you Freeride. The change of design & shape has improved my surfin greatly. That being said I consider myself to have only ever been of average to just above average ability. Getting good at any pursuit takes time, consistency & practice. The best surfers are a product of that. The rest of us will always benifit from a more compromised/forgiving design....
What I see is people using the wrong boards in the conditions they are surfing.
Sure, you can surf your 'all rounder' in anything from 2ft to 6ft but at times there are better options if you open yourself up to a bigger quiver.
Say when it's a bit fuller, get on a bigger volumed or wider board, and then when it's getting a little too big for your go to board, put it away and switch to your step up.
Not only will you get more waves and make more of them, you'll also enjoy the surf that much more.
Too many times I see people struggling on thin undersized board in weak small waves (the weekend for an example), when they could be performing better and catching more waves on a different board.
People just have to change their mindset and not follow the sheep mentality.
Most surfers are sheep and the young and easily lead will go buy what the pro,s ride. Too thin too narrow and too short for most of them. Look at the board reviews in mags none of which cater for surfers like myself at 90 kg and average + ability . With volume and width I can go shorter but majority of surfers they are bamboozled by the shit the surf mags/ industry push on them
Im interested in other surfers feed back on shorter, higher volume boards (eg hyptocrypto) that are made for bigger waves that you would normally surf a step up,semi gun on.
I cant bring myself to buy one for 6-8ft + waves. I feel so much more comfortable on my 6'3 step up and then either a 6'6 or my 7'0.
I think what Coops is saying above is true, surf mags and the industry are trying to convince the regular public that because Jon Jon or Josh Kerr or Slater surf Chopes and pipe on a 5'11, and Craig Ando surfs 8ft Namibia and Greenbush on a 5'4, that the rest of us can do it..
Anyone surf these boards in solid hollow surf? Thoughts?
goof, rode a hypto in 3-4' super sucky vic reef. was a demo board from the local...i'm about 90-95kgs and all advice was the 6'0" epoxy at 36l. hated it. caught waves, but way to floaty, really felt on top of the wave, instead of in it, if that makes sense? rode a mates beaten up PU version 5'8" in very similar conditions at same break(stronger offshore wind by about 5-10 knts)it rocked! got rail, felt drivey on bottom turn, but had to work harder and drop later. mathematically doesn't make sense, the 6'0" ticks the boxes on paper, but, if I'd of demo'd the pu 5'8", woulda bought it on the spot...haven't tried them in bigger conditions though, when it gets more serious, i don't over experiment...trusty 6'6" get the dust blown off
6''2 Firewire dominator - 83kgs, 5"11, 38.1L, not shit.
I use it for when the surf is just slop and I just want to get out there and make the most of it.
Sucks ass in anything above about a ft overhead, and it sucks in anything sucky and throws over eg. slabs or shallow beachies. Its just got no nose lift and the rails are too fat to give hold.
The board is amazing for waist - shoulder height when you want to do nice turns and chill, but like FR think mentioned earlier, know your board for the waves.
I'm 6'1 (and 3/4) and weigh 83kg.
I used to ride a 6'2 x 18 1/4 x 2 1/4 but got a dumpster diver early this year - 5'10 x 20 x 2 1/2 (32.3L).
I almost exclusively ride the dumpster diver and find it is great up to 5ft. The only draw back it has is in poweful and hollow 4-5 ft surf (and above of course) because the rails are quite full and so I've had a few issues sometimes digging the rail in on late drops into hollow waves.
But what I'm not planning on doing is going longer, or much longer, to resolve this, just getting a slightly lower volume, thinner-railed and (perhaps) longer board to have for those larger punchier days - possibly 6'0 x 19 x 2 3/8.
I have a 6'3 x 18 3/4 x 2 3/8 rounded pin which I've only used twice in the last year - once in 6ft+ bells (I've also used my dumpter is 5-6ft bells and it was fine) and once in 8ft+ Uluwatu. When I was at Uluwatu everyone (being mostly shorter than me) was on 6'8 plus boards and there I was on my 6'3. Paddling would have been a bit easier for sure but if you are fit (like me - if I may say so myself) this is only a minor draw back - once you are on the wave its better too be on a "normal" board instead of something that feels like a bus - two inches more than my height is more than enough rail and bigger fins can compensate for apparent lack of "grip".
To get to the point - I've not used a hyptocrypto but would argue if you are fit and flexible and surf regularly shorter boards with a bit more volume should improve your surfing and despite the Gen-X/Baby Boomer formula of riding a giant bus as soon as it gets over six foot, shorter fatter boards still go well in bigger punchier surf. My only caveat would be that the dumster diver looks like a performance shortboard (relatively-speaking) in the last 6-10 inches of the nose, but a hyptocrypto has a very wide end to its nose which might change its performance in punchier surf...
depends .....if you moderate that then the concepts work for the rec surfer.
its more the distribution of planing area, with the forward weighted outlines giving paddling power and the pintail hold.
Last trip to the desert I rode a 6'0" mostly where once I might have ridden a 6'3" or 6'6".
I still love riding my bigger boards though when it's solid.
I watch the fellas out at Bears or margs etc etc on their small boards for the average fella I am afraid no worky!
#thesecondRolfAurnessmoment
Surfer magazine recently had a list of the Top 34's go to boards and all of them, save the tall bastards like Jordy and Owen, were around 5'11" - 6'0". This is up from around 5'10" a year or so ago.
Stu, you guys did the follow up review of the baked potato where you exposed some of the design's limitations (like car reviews, they get mentioned when the newer model comes out!) - I wonder if it is these very limitations (forced crouch, turning)that are responsible for the lowering of 'median' surfing on shortboards.
Me, I dodged it all, still on the same volume/style shortboards I had as a kid: late 70's area/volume, but now with the modern touches. Still love them, they still work. Most people coming down the coast on little boards ride a traverse, struggle to paddle in - even on the latest short designs.
But they go better with glass fins....
I really don't think you can mount an argument that board design is holding back any level of surfer in 2014.
Boards are the best they've ever been. You can walk into any surf shop and find something suitable off the rack and there's amazing custom shaper/designers everywhere. With the Internet it's more accessible than ever before.
Sure, as Craig said , people might choose the wrong board but anyone now with even half a clue can size up or down to get equipment that suits.
Blaming boards for the erosion in skill levels at some places is barking up the wrong tree.
"I really don't think you can mount an argument that board design is holding back any level of surfer in 2014."
I note your conviction on the issue, but I will make the argument that aspects of design can hold back surfers, even today. From the review:
"It may have been a revelation yet it wasn't without its hangups; the XXXX caught waves easily but the outsized dimensions restricted performance once upon them. "
"As with all super short boards the XXXX almost forces the rider to crouch while riding. Not a full crouch a la Dekka Hynd riding finless, but hunched nonetheless, weight distributed evenly across the centre of the board. In part this is due to the short rail line but also the necessary frantic movements needed to get going in the small stuff."
"Turning, however, is not one of the board's strong suits. There's very little rocker so it doesn't naturally lead into turns. Put it on edge and the board loses speed quickly, often decelerating towards a bogged rail. There must be a sweet spot there...somewhere, though after a month of riding it still remained elusive. Replacing rail turns with quick pivoting snaps avoided the worst of the flaw, the XXXX likes to be handled with a lighter touch. Riding it as a thruster instead of a quad put some predictability back into its turns, but unfortunately with three fins it was slower and that ain't what's wanted in a groveller."
These words are Stu's describing a modern board. They certainly evoke limitation/holding back in my mind. Any board is a compromise between ultimate planing ability and ability to control this, no matter which era it is made in. Otherwise I agree, amazing custom shaper/designers exist, and are more accessible than ever; most people understand volume and order what they think will suit them.
So, we are left with skill. Are median skills dropping? I can't honestly say - it would be difficult but not impossible to quantify - skill being comprised of experience, reaction time, muscle memory, training, mindset. The actual surfing going on does not equal the skill. As I wrote, " I wonder if it is these very limitations (forced crouch, turning)that are responsible for the lowering of 'median' surfing on shortboards," I can say the SURFING is affected by equipment that limits riders, sure. Even in 2014. Skill affected by the boards? Not so sure that a defined link can be made between board design and human skill (which I consider a function of physiology and like mass psychology relatively constant throughout time), that's why I didn't mention it.
The short arc bogged cutback is my favourite example of the too short board. Capable surfer whips onto the rail but the arc is so short they cannot shift their weight quickly enough to get the release. At worst a fall, at best an ungainly recovery with major loss of momentum. I see it all the time.
Going to short is only a problem if you think you can go shorter without going wider or thicker, its probably a good thing volume is now measured as thats a big help in reassuring your still in the right ball park.
The trend to go shorter has only happened because shorter boards generally fit the curve on the wave better.
Personally i think the general perfect board measurement is your own height and within four inches each way for different type boards.
For example I'm 5,10
My everyday board is a 5,10
My grovel board is 5,6
And my step up is 6,2
I stick to this formula and just go wider and thicker as my beer gut grows :D
Um but i actually have a 6,0 also so i guess i screwed up.
Horses for courses. I definitely surf better now than I did in the 90's, partly due to understanding what boards work for me and not following the narrower, thinner trend that the shaper told me was a must back then.
I also know that I am never going to pop an air 360 so no point in having a board that specialises in doing one.
I agree with Craig’s and freeride's comments on this. Often it’s less about the board and more about that board’s suitability for given surf conditions coupled with its rider’s skill level, which cause issues.
Locally my experience is surfing ability has generally increased with the general rise in numbers and move away from the ’potato chip’ thin boards.
Something else I have noticed though is the use of the terms ‘One board quiver’ or ‘Quiver killer’ in respect of some board models marketing. I just don’t think that is possible, unless an individual generally surfs a very limited variety of waves.
However, some people may not have the luxury of a quiver and select one board for all seasons. That to me would be a more difficult choice. Just one board. Do you run something that will handle the medium to solid days but will flounder in the small fat guff…or go for something that grovels and make do when the surf gets solid?
We were all one board wonders until the mid-seventies. On the east coast at least. I have used a two board "quiver" for most of my surfing life and never found it a problem. These days I am sure there are a lot of young surfers with one board in the 5'10 to 6'2" range who are coping with pretty much whatever happens. In the final analysis it is surprising how far you can stretch the performance limits of a board you have a deep connection with at both ends of the power spectrum. As a related comment I rarely surf a board for less than 3 or 4 years for the same reason. The more you surf them the better you know them!
Yeah, really good point. My board has been holding me back for years. Hasn't been turning right, Won't get me airs, refuses to duck dive deep enough, makes paddling out hard and is not helping with my pro surfing career. Time for a new one I think. Then look out Snapper, I'm snaking every wave because my new board is taking me to the big show.
In general I think the trend to perhaps go a little shorter, and add more volume can have a good effect for the average surfer, but in moderation. start chopping half a foot off your standard shortboard length, and you might be going a bit over the top or you end up with boards that only suit a very limited range of conditions. However if done well the added volume means more waves, easier to surf and hopefully and improvement in your surfing
As someone learning to surf in the late 90's/early 2000's, I just couldn't get the hang of the thin shortboards of the time. I got a couple of wider, thicker boards shaped, but admittedly felt a bit kooky when everyone else had a board a full inch thinner than mine however my surfing(and enjoyment) improved very quickly!
at 6ft 3in my 'go to' board was generally around 6'5". these days I pretty much always ride something between 6'0"(but fishy) and 6'4" but a tad wider than before.
In regards to the one board quiver I took a long trip last year, and picked up a 6'4" secondhandthat was a touch wider and thicker than my usual, and it well from 1-6ft waves, so I think with a little comprise, it's possible to have a one or 2 board quiver that will see you enjoy a pretty wide variety of conditions.
I think we will see a move away from the really short stumpy shortboards and perhaps find a happy medium somewhere in the middle
guys just go to your local shaper...and he should know how you surf and what you are capable of riding....if you are honest about your ability and waves you surf...you can surf shorter...but as shapers are supposed to be the pros........listen to them unless you like experimenting yourself.....trial and error....
I get guys just asking for too thin too narrow...and tell them ," I will write whatever you want as dimensions but you are getting what I believe is right.....damn control freaks.....
and ah if I'm 5 8 and can ride a 5 9 x 17 1/4 x 1 3/4 in surf up to 20'.......are longer bds /stepups only really for you to catch the wave.....I think that's called a rhetorical question!
I was on a boat in Indo last year with a group of guys I didn't know (cheap, last minute ticket). Only one guy on the boat could surf well, while the rest were of average ability or less. Everyone had at least three boards and I reckon 75% of the boards on the boat would have been Channel Islands! Blew me away, guys that couldn't surf particularly well buying high end, hi-performance boards for top dollar.
Go to your local shaper. Be honest. Ride what suits you.
I agree go your local shaper. I was talking with him recently and we both agreed the guys who have the right boards from him are surfing better than ever because the boards are really good in comparison to the old days (read late 70's, 80's). Then you had only a vague idea what the board was going to do, now they are incredible and never nose dive. You can take off on just about anything and trust you are going to make it. I am 5'6'', 64 kilo and ride a 5'9" locally then it and a 5'11'' in more serious waves (read indo' not beachies) and have a 6'2" gun for as big as I am ever going to ride (not that big - 8' and that is it). All are quite different in plan shape and thickness (including distribution of the foam). It is all subtle but that is why you go to someone who tailors each board size for you. Also have fun boards for gutless small days which we thankfully don't get too many of.
If that is a tow board brutus then there is also the question of generating speed which I think can be more difficult on a small board in a lot of conditions. Coming into a wave planing fast is pretty different to having to generate that speed from scatch.
BB there are other factors to consider. Length is only a small factor that makes up volume and drive. And rocker plays a major part in the paddle ability and glide. As boards get shorter, most shapers who know what's up will incorporate a flatter rocker which actually makes the board ride longer than it is relative to a standard shorty. Width plays a big part in the board's stability as well. Adding width, and deck volume provides much more volume incrementally than adding length.
I agree Kelly would surf better by adding an inch to his normal board because he looks a bit jittery at times, but I think the average surfer that I come in contact with, generally have an idea what they want but at the same time are open to advice when it comes to designing a board that works best for them. The whole volume measuring tool with the latest board design software is great but the advice needs to be commensurate with the surfer's ability. If the surfer claims he rips when he doesn't, then surely he will end up with the wrong equipment.
The main problem is the general surfers are getting pushed onto boards that won't work for them, they are either under volume, too narrow, over-rockered, or too short for them. Talking to an experienced shaper and ordering custom is good way to get something that suits, instead of having zero input and buying the latest model off the rack . Most shapers will have an idea and a board in their range that they can tweak to an individual's specs.
My point is the flow of one's surfing is much more complex than simply adding a few inches to your current board.
Agree with you here rm. My experience and observations for over 30 years tells me that unless you're a way above average surfer, boards under 6' for most surfers is too short. Secondly, most average surfers have got too many high performance features in their boards that their brain/body/feet never fully interprets on the wave from one movement to the next; and this consequently impedes their flow and quality of their ride/performance.
There's so many nuances with board design that it's very easy to have a board that is over-complicated for you, and this is the unrecognized problem that the 'would-be's' keep falling for with their media industry influenced thinking and board purchases.
For probably 75% of surfers, if they kept their day-to-day board 3-6 inches over their height as well as kept the overall design features pretty simple, in my opinion they would be more at one with the wave, enjoy it more and they would look and feel like they actually know what they're doing on the wave.
A step-up board might not necessarily be much longer, but contains a few of the high performance features that will definitely be more at home in bigger, cleaner, more challenging conditions.
Not really sure you can draw any conclusions from watching average punters surf. It always occurred to me about 20-30% of surfers in the line-up at any time could be riding better boards more suited to their skill levels. Sometimes thinner, sometimes fatter. Sometimes longer, sure. Sometimes shorter. I know a lot of traditionalists that refuse to surf anything but a 6’2” thruster, and often won’t surf when it’s smaller than waist high. They are just denying themselves fun really. Almost always more volume. Overall I think the wider fatter, shorter boards are easier to catch waves on. How many times have I seen punters paddling around toothpicks and not catching any waves. But then I live on Bondi and anything goes over here. I see all kinds of craft. After 35 years of surfing, pretty much every day I can, there is absolutely no way I would still be interested in surfing, if I only had a two board quiver. Myself and my wife share boards, and we have pretty much everything under the sun, starting with a 9’1’ Mal, going down to a 5’6” fish. I had to give about five boards away, and I think we are down to about 11 now. But I do see your point. I see it with beginners especially. It’s really more about ego than anything. My 13yr old niece has been surfing a year. Six months on 7ft foamie and she wants to get a 5’10 Fish. I have tried talking her out of it, but she wants what she wants. So I am stoked at least she is into surfing that much. Besides I started surfing in the 70’s. My first board was a 6’8” Single fin. My next was a 5’10” Twin. I did exactly what she did. I made exactly the same mistake. That set me back about five years. It was just my ego. But I worked it out in the end. Now, I don’t really care what board she rides, so long as she is having fun. Isn’t the best surfer in the water, the one having the most fun? My current favourite board is a 5'8" Nano made by Tomo. These boards are super ugly and super short, but just try one?
Agree that not so sure it's the board but perhaps the choice of board.
I'm one of those mediocre surfers, born in 75 in a small coastal town, I surfed til I was 15, lidded from 15-30, and have been back on a stick for the last 8-9 years. And I followed the same process I did as a kid, restored the late old mans 9'6" Scott Dillon, then acquired a 7'2" mini-mal, then a locally shaped 6'2" fish and then a 5'10" Hypto.
The latter two are my main quiver, the 7'2" I share with my main partner, and the 9'6" probably needs a touch up to go back on the wall. I'm 6'2" 85kgs and have a bad back so I find it easier to handle a light maneuverable board. But I love the modern boards compared to my late 80's shortboards I left behind. I now know that 34-36 litres is my target and I'd like something in the 6'4" vicinity for those more sizey days. I'm a much better snowboarder than surfer and love nothing more than cruising on the front foot on the Hypto when it's waist to head high and super clean. The rest of the time is spent on the Fish mostly in quad mode as I find it suits my front foot style.
Great thead, I love this pursuit now more than ever, and I'd really like someone to coach me on tight arc cutbacks but I'm fumbling my way through!
BB maybe the phenomenon you're seeing is not so much that the level of skill has decreased because everyone is riding shorter boards, maybe it's tied to Craig's theory of people riding the wrong equipment:
If we run with this theory, then here's a possible explanation. These days people buy a model off the shelf... You can buy it off the internet... You can buy identical factory blown Tuflites and Firewires.
The industry has shifted from a rock up, measure up, talk to your shaper 1 on 1, and then DESIGN the best board suited to your skill, weight and type of waves you ride. Instead people seek to buy a model of board, read the blurb on what it can do (usually it says you can go anywhere and do anything with it).
I'd be willing to bet that most of the people on this forum still run with a 1 on 1 discussion, but the 50% ers out there at snapper who have only taken the sport up within the last 5 years are buying by model and here say from mates.
The shaper distances themselves by putting these models into wholesale shops where the staff are disconnected in their interaction. They are trying to sell stuff, not trying to assess from a shaper's unique perspective how a board will suit the rider.
Even the sale of the shaper's brand is more linked to the teamrider model these days rather than the shaper's skill. Back in the day if the equivalent 'Craig Anderson' was riding a Hayden Shape, that's all that mattered, and people would rock up to the shaping bay and get a 'Hayden' custom (Dahlberg during Occy's reign, MR during MR, DHD during the Cooly Kids era). Now people want the model. I want a 'Hypto Crypto' model, pretty sure GSI sell them? What does the HS letters up the side stand for? 'High Speed' version.
The valuable role of the shaper has been overlooked by the 50% and they aren't looking at their skill, weight or wave preference with experienced eyes when they buy off the net/showroom floor.
I used to only buy customs off local shapers. More often than not they were OK but compared to the off the shelf stuff I have bought in the last year there is no comparison. Been surfing 40 years, usually 4-6 times a week, currently riding a 5'6" x 18 5/8" Tomo Vader, best board I have ever had by a mile (and smallest and narrowest). Catches waves with ease, got so much drive, turns on a dime. I don't think you can generalise too much.
The guy I use has 40 years experience and shaped around 26,000 boards. He gets all sorts in the shop as they fix dings so is up with whatever the latest trend is. The one's I have at the moment are brilliant by far the best he has ever done for me, however I keep saying that with each new board. I remember riding similar sized twinnies back before thrusters and it really is like chalk and cheese where boards are at now.
+1 John C. I have been surfing 35yrs. Like many, did the whole contest thing when I was 20yrs younger. Was sponsored, getting free boards etc. Ordered more than a 100 customs. Best board I have ever got was off the rack. A Nano 5'8" shaped by Tomo. I noted the master of flow Tom Curren has one now too.
reading your article again BB I am not making a clear point of difference. so to be clearer, I agree with the discussion about the 50%ers selecting based on models, but I don't reckon the overall skill level has reduced due to the actual quality of boards deteriorating, or because the top selling models aren't sold with a performance waiver saying 'designed for high performance surfing only'.
I reckon the root cause is due to the market shift to sell by 'models', and increasing separation from the shaper during the transaction.
I am all for talking to shapers. I can only remember buying one board off the rack and that really did not turn out well. That said I think there are some pretty poor boards around yocal and, as I said in the article, it is usually that they lack the sophistication to work effectively at that kind of length. People have mentioned total volume quite a bit here and I have always been a believer in factoring that into design but adding width and thickness is of little use if the basic lines of the board and the fin set ups are far below optimum. I spend a bit of time watching these days and I quite often pick out what I would regard as poor designs while they are being surfed. A look at them later in the car park usually confirms the diagnosis.
Again, I would argue it's more poor technique and low skill base by the user. I can't think of a single manufacturer selling on the NB's making poorly designed surfboards.
You'd have to give examples BB.
After watching heaps of highly skilled surfers riding anything and ripping I'm confident we are seeing a skill problem and not a surfboard design one.
Watch Ryan Burch ride a three foot slab of esky foam standing up and ripping and you'll quickly understand what I'm talking about.
Watch Ryan Burch ride a three foot slab of esky foam standing up and ripping and you'll quickly understand what I'm talking about.
Have you tried one of those? They look really interesting.
I watched some of that stuff freeride and the limitations of some of the boards he is riding seem pretty clear to me. Then consider that he is a very talented surfer and these are highlights. And no I am not naming names on the NB or anywhere else mainly because, as I said in the article, I suspect many of the problems are customer driven.
Of course there are limitations, point being he is surfing with flow and mastery despite them.
If you can't do a clean cutback on a 5'8" you probably can't do one on a 6'3".
Board designs have mostly been on a forward/improving trajectory along with high end skill yet the average rec surfer is going backwards......and the problem is?
True this is where I can't argue for or against with experience. I can't see discreet flaws in board designs unless they're blatantly obscure from the norm. I generally could only pick up a problem by riding it and putting it through a few turns.
It's too easy to get that magic board.
Just rock up to a shaping bay - 4.3pm on a Friday is a great time , being when your shaper is most receptive to your needs - and simply state that you want a board that is thin and knifey , but with plenty of paddling speed. A board that is super loose but incredibly drivey, a board that has minimal rocker for down the line speed that turns on a dime in the steepest sections and is short enough to fit into any pocket but long enough to bottom turn around twenty metre sections.
With a cool spray that's eye catching but not too loud.
And You want it by Tuesday.
And you want it cheap.
With grip, leggie and some stickers thrown in.
Just explain exactly what it is you really want.
You'll be amazed at the results. Too easy.
And it should never ding and be able to drive a ute over it
if you bring a 6-pack with, it tends to help the conversation but must make sure they are filling out an order form with the specs you are discussing once you're 3 beers down!
IMO let the mass people take years to find their preferred equipment, let them take years to surf varying waves in varying conditions.
It does take time and experience even for all the 2% ers.
I think you people are tripping to think the average standard of surfing by everyday surfers has dropped, it sure hasn't at my beach, although i kinda wish it had, perhaps there is some truth that the gap between the best surfers at your local and pro surfers have widened.
BUT
That has nothing to do with boards, and a lot more to do with the fact professional surfers are so much better these days and surfing is getting so technical, serious competition surfers also need to put in a lot more time and energy in than they once did and are becoming true athletes doing training of all types other than surfing to enhance fitness and strength etc.
Now go watch an old video of Sarges Scrap book from the late 80,s early 90,s and it won't take long to notice, generally speaking the average pro surfer was interested as much or perhaps more on partying than becoming an athlete.
Personally i think we are in the best time every in regard to surfboards, they are more fine tuned than ever and people aren't restricting themselves to one type of board or thinking they need what the pros are riding.
"I think you people are tripping to think the average standard of surfing by everyday surfers has dropped, it sure hasn't at my beach, although i kinda wish it had, "
Really depends where you are Indo Dreaming.
It's definitely dropped in urban areas, especially Sydney.
I live at Lennox and the standard is incredibly high.
IGNORE surf corporation / media fuelled trends.
If you are not surfing as much, got a few extra kgs or just getting older and a bit slower then : Keep it simple.
Extra "volume" (width and thickness) seems to be giving the impression of a pig or aircraft wing, but thats not the case.
Same maybe said for concave vs flat/vee bottom boards.
What ever gives you the stoke is important.
Reject "models" and clicking on "purchase now" .
I'm 100 kilos and the latest board is 40 liters and wide. Makes a big difference paddling. Now find an uncrowded surf on the Goldie to get to know it better.