Notes For A Young Surfer
Stuart Nettle June 2, 2010
Paul Briggs is a hard nut; a world champion boxer turned underworld standover man with a long list of victims, both officially recorded and not. Like I said, a hard nut. Yet despite his combat credentials I once watched Clifton Evers take him on and win.
It was about three years back and Triple J were filming a live debate of their current affairs program, Hack. The topic of the debate was male violence, and the guests included, amongst others, Paul Briggs and Clifton Evers. The former advocating the use of violence as a disciplinary tool for young men, the latter arguing in the negative, that energy is better expended in other ways.
If, before the debate began, I didn't know what Evers looked like then I would've assumed that he was the one supporting violence because, when he fronted the camera, he was sporting a fat lip topped with a fresh scab. Evers, you see, had come undone while surfing a south coast reef that very morning - the end result being a clash of head and rock. Yet here he was on live television speaking out against violence while looking every bit the pugilist! The irony unintentional but wonderful.
Evers stood up to Briggs, at least figuratively, and gave a passionate and convincing argument that young men find another outlet for violence; that it was a road fraught with danger and that other choices were available. His latest book, Notes For A Young Surfer, could be considered an addition to that argument, at least for those that have already chosen surfing.
The surfing life is a healthy one, though as anyone old enough to look back on their formative years can attest, the surfing community is replete with it's own systemic notions of sexism, racism and homophobia. For young surfers it seems natural to follow that lead, wise voices and guiding hands often rare. For Evers, the silent path to manhood is analogous to the surfers code of secrecy regarding surf spots: "Some crew say the same about manhood - that you have to get there on your own - but the consequences are not the same. Not finding a secret wave may be frustrating, but not getting help on your way to manhood can lead to much more than frustration"
And so Notes For A Young Surfer provides an open, alternative voice to the mainstream surfing media. Written in an informal, conversational style it is well suited to it's intended audience. Evers uses his own life as an example calling upon personal anecdotes and hard-won lessons while also examining the destructive influence of surfing mythology. It is a reassuring read for young surfers negotiating the path to manhood.
Notes For A Young Surfer is published by Melbourne University Press and is available for $24.95 (plus postage and handling). Click here to purchase.
Comments
This book looks really interesting. I have just scratched that sore in my film Caught Inside.
I would love Clifton Evers to see it. It is playing at the Sydney Film Festival.
Check out the trailer:
http://www.caughtinside.com.au/
I look forward to reading your book.
Adam Blaiklock.
G'day Adam,
I've sent an email to the 'info@caughtinside" address. Please check.
Stu
I think this sounds like a really interesting topic for a book. It's something that I am sure I will learn a lot from and most probably enjoy passing on to other young men.
Just ordered my copy then... Can't wait :-)
Ahhh the memories.
Punched square in the face by a hypo-agro local at Kings Beach Caloundra when learning to surf. I still remember his fluoro green and black tubie. Mate, how was I was to know you were going left? I was 14 years old and only knew one way- straight!! I'll never forget him, furious, angry, ripping but a first class twat!!
Or, once again, during my late teens, punching on at the Beenleigh Tavern moshing to the HooDoo Guru's. Maybe it was my pastel Billabong trousers and Bad Boy Billys T-shirt in a sea of Bevan denim?
Fishies, 92' Nirvana, (believe it or not) supporting Violent Femmes, my old bouncer mate sneaking me in through the public bar and again copping a slap to the back of the head because, well, I was young, liquored up and living life that only a young bugger in his prime was able to do.
Fighting record? Had four fights in my adult life (excluding footy), won three and lost one. The one I lost? Was the one I picked. Moral? Defend yourself at all costs but never pick a fight. There's always someone out there that's going to call your bluff and snot you.
Since then, happy, still surfing, many friends, unscathed and loving life. Awaiting next altercation.
By the way, enjoy Dr. Cliffs writing and will in no doubt buy the book. Can probably relate to it.
How good was Nirvana at Fishos that night?
Epic.
Would love to read Clif's book.
Hey Freeride, Epic 'eh? If you remember, Deborah Conway opened, Nirvana next and then the Femmes. That day had it all for me, fun little surf in the morn', home for a few you know whatties and then up to the wharf where my bouncer mate snuck me in for free, a chick I went to uni with worked behind the bar and sorted me for beers the whole night and I pashed (ha ha) about half a dozen different hotties over the course of the evening. Including the elusive long-legged, brown-skinned, big breasted KB. Seemed like everyone I knew came together for that one epic night.
Memories... (Cue Barbara Streisand now).
Zenagain, I think your mate is still surfing Kings (or maybe it's his son), I saw a guy doing excatly the same thing you discribed not too long ago.
Usual Kings day, tinny waves, young kids everywhere, one kid obviously just learning, enter big prick with a bad attitude. Snaking everyone, even screaming at a group of young girls to get out of his way. Then I couldn't believe it when I saw the big prick rip into this little kid for "f#@king up his wave".
That poor kid left in tears and I left disgust....
I can only hope the kid is still surfing and that the prick has picked a fight with the wrong dude and got what he deserves...
You know Pete, Karma, whether you believe in it or not works in mysterious ways. You can take solace in the fact that not on that day, but no doubt in the future, this cum-stain on the sheets of humanity will no doubt abuse the kid whose arse-kicking father will be quietly watching from the shore. You know where it goes from there.
If there's a plus, the poor kid at the receiving end of his tirade hopefully will continue surfing well into his life and when his ability develops, will do his utmost not to be a wanker in the surf. Worked for me, I'm only a wanker on land;)
It happend to Nat Young at Angourie a few years back. He got his head smashed in because of hasseling kids in the lineup!
Yeah Nat Young is a goose. He may have been a good surfer but he got what he deserved. If you go around slapping other peoples kids in or out of the water you deserve to get what's coming to you from their old man. He then had the nerve to go and write a book about surf rage and about how much of a victim he was. Real tosser.....
yeah Adam, can't wait to see it. I went to uni with Joe V up in Newcastle many years ago. Well he went to uni, and I went surfing mostly :)