Review: 'When The Ocean Awakens' by Marti Paradisis

stunet's picture
By Stu Nettle (stunet)

Review: 'When The Ocean Awakens' by Marti Paradisis

Stu Nettle picture
Stu Nettle (stunet)
The Depth Test

The digital age promotes rapid sharing of information, and yet whatever it is we’re sharing, it’s not meaningful stories. They seem rarer than ever. Even when someone finds the time or place to type and send, where can we find it a year later when we want to reread it? Stories are meant to endure, to be revisited, by you and by others, and a world without them exists in a permanent ‘now’ with no link to its history.

With thirty stories - surprisingly well written - there’s a lot to read in When The Ocean Awakens, the recent book from Marti Paradisis. In a sharp bit of editing, a great many of the stories don’t just sit there as words naked on the page. Very often the photos match the story being told so the response is multi-sensory.

An example is Tyler Hollmer-Cross’ story on the ever-elevating risks that he and his friends were taking during their ascent from Tassie beachies to Shippies to Govs to Pedra Branca, which culminated in a 2013 wave at Pedra that turned dream to nightmare in an instant.

In the same time it takes to read this sentence, Stu Gibson captured a breathtaking six-shot sequence of Tyler. Yet in the accompanying text, Tyler expands time, giving voice to his thoughts during those horrifying moments between thinking he would get the barrel of his life to being pressed against the seafloor while running out of oxygen. No need for the reader to call upon their imagination when the actual images sit on the opposite page.

It’s not the only coupling of words and photo with similar stories from his brother James Hollmer-Cross - also a Pedra Branca horror show, Kelly Nordstrom, Kyron Rathbone, Sam Thomas, Alex Zawadski, and others too. Yet even when the photos tell a different tale, the imagery is nothing short of excellent. With work from Stu Gibson, Andy Chisolm, Matt Tildesley, Nick Green, and Nick Nairn-Smith, it could quite easily stand alone as a gallery-level photo book. Instead it’s more than that.

Though a compendium of stories, When The Ocean Awakens is Marti Paradisis’ project. Through an extended introduction, Marti details his migration from Hobart’s northern suburbs, to intermittent beach visitor, and onwards to a life far beyond the Clifton shorey. But not too far, it’s a Tasmanian collection of stories after all. Marti is the ideal MC for this collection, as he and his group came of age when Tasmania itself also rose to prominence. No longer a cold surfing backwater but a wave zone that surfers the world over could recognise by photo alone.

Many of the stories detail these wonder years when the Tassie crew realised they had a wave in their backyard that people would travel far to surf. The discovery of Shippies didn’t just give credit to what was largely an overlooked state, it gave purpose to a whole host of people who wondered about the possibilities. Surf Shippies well enough and you could get noticed by the international surf media. The same goes when photographed well. Shippies jumpstarted the careers of many surfers and photographers, and even putting the professional aspects aside, it simply became the place around which their island surf culture grew.

A wild ocean doesn't discriminate, and similarly Marti has looked beyond his tight group of #southernlords, handing the quill to earlier crew such as Andrew Campbell and Dustin Hollick, rising groms such as Noah Hassett, and to bodyboarders such as Harley and Charles Ward.

Though mainlanders made early inroads, it was locals who really discovered the bleeding edge of possibility at Shipsterns Bluff. How late can you hit the step? How big can it be ridden? With Shippies among one of the heaviest waves in the world, this made the surfers who rode it the world’s bravest and/or craziest.

It also caused the Shipsterns crew to wonder what else broke around the rim of their small rocky island. The open ocean bommie their mate Dave Wyatt once saw? The rock outcrops near Port Davey that promised so much? Among other things, When The Ocean Awakens is an ode to being young, of itching to discover, of driving highways in the middle of the night as storms rage up the coast, or setting out from port on a repurposed fishing trawler to intercept a swell somewhere over the horizon.

It’s a small island, but Tasmania is home to big waves which give rise to big surfing stories. When The Ocean Awakens is home to the best of these stories, now and forever.

Published by Salty Minds, 206pp, 'When The Ocean Awakens' is available online.

Comments

the dr's picture
the dr's picture
the dr Thursday, 5 Dec 2024 at 12:19pm

would've been cool for them to have the insight that they sold out an empty shippies for their own street cred & careers ? they can hardly blame anyone but themselves about the crowds and rubbish that gets left there now....

AlfredWallace's picture
AlfredWallace's picture
AlfredWallace Thursday, 5 Dec 2024 at 4:10pm

the dr. You could apply that rationale to nearly all popular surf breaks.

There’s always a detractor amongst us, fair dinkum.

Can’t you just give some credit to Marti for what looks like a great publication, I’m sure all those boys who first surfed there had know idea or weren’t even thinking about the things you suggested.

Like I say , paradise found , often becomes paradise lost. I personally don’t think it’s lost, sounds like you do.

Simple human being dispersive behaviour, been going on since hominids gradually rose to their feet and will continue to go on whilst we over populate the planet, we are curious buggers. AW

Faunt Leroy's picture
Faunt Leroy's picture
Faunt Leroy Thursday, 5 Dec 2024 at 12:25pm

Its called being human
Its happened everywhere, if not them, someone else.

derra83's picture
derra83's picture
derra83 Thursday, 5 Dec 2024 at 12:56pm

Impressive table of contents.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 5 Dec 2024 at 1:14pm

Beautiful book... could stare at those images for hours. I also think the wide range of voices/personalities is a highlight.. Marti's done a really good job at curating everything.

crg's picture
crg's picture
crg Thursday, 5 Dec 2024 at 1:30pm

Sounds great.
That opening photo of the boog is all time...who took that?

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Thursday, 5 Dec 2024 at 1:34pm

Stu Gibson.

The book is filled with jaw droppers.

Bnkref's picture
Bnkref's picture
Bnkref Friday, 6 Dec 2024 at 3:46pm

Yeah that it is an incredible shot.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 5 Dec 2024 at 2:16pm

Has the crowding increased in Tas?

It doesn't seem like a place very amenable to a surf trip for the average rec surfer who doesn't want to surf Shippies.

The Hobart points barely break, seems a lot of driving and hard work to get go outs.

No idea, just asking.

Cookie1's picture
Cookie1's picture
Cookie1 Thursday, 5 Dec 2024 at 4:51pm

Did a walking only tour there earlier this year on the East Coast. Walked along the beach for about 8 hours and didn't see another soul but what I did see was kilometres of thumping and spitting peaks all day. Swell lasted a few days and then went practically flat. I would say you would need extensive local knowledge or you just get lucky. The waves are out there though from my small sample size.

Exxotixjeff's picture
Exxotixjeff's picture
Exxotixjeff Thursday, 5 Dec 2024 at 8:32pm

Well my 10 years experience in Tassy a while
back , was that there’s more to life than just surfing, but if you do appreciate the ocean and get lucky , you might score some pristine waves with not many people around,
but then again you might just have to
admire the scenery,
It’s always offshore somewhere!

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Friday, 6 Dec 2024 at 10:09am

Spent two months there in the winter of 2019, based out of Launnie. Covered thousands of k's on the weekends chasing waves and didn't get in the water once. Was either 0.5' and perfect on the East Coast or 8-10' and howling onshore on the West Coast. Added to the subzero temps, they'll never have to worry about crowds IMHO. Book looks incredible, must have taken years to compile

dandandan's picture
dandandan's picture
dandandan Friday, 6 Dec 2024 at 4:49pm

Crowds have gone up considerably in my view. In some places the regular crowd has more than doubled. It's much more common to have people surfing all day every day of the week than it used to be. Hyped point swells and another very good wave in the south can have 60-100 people on them, even middle of winter on freezing days. Outside of those spots, you could surf to yourself whenever you liked if you wanted to drive around (lots of driving around). It's sometimes pinch yourself uncrowded and perfect, but I firmly believe it's only because the waves aren't reliable. If the waves were anywhere near as consistent as the NSW coast the crowds would end up being the same as everywhere else.

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay Thursday, 5 Dec 2024 at 2:27pm

Lotta driving, slim pickings. Beautiful place, clean air, and some good waves with a bit of luck.

Didn't see many people.

garyg1412's picture
garyg1412's picture
garyg1412 Thursday, 5 Dec 2024 at 3:56pm

That contents page contains a list of fucking madmen and brilliant photographers. Hats off to them all. Great read.

Vince Neil's picture
Vince Neil's picture
Vince Neil Friday, 6 Dec 2024 at 2:28pm

the dr made a fair point. What are we as surfers willing to compromise, if the goal is to surf good waves as much as possible?

Peter Duffin's picture
Peter Duffin's picture
Peter Duffin Friday, 6 Dec 2024 at 2:53pm

My son studied @ UTAS, the waves were epic and the images he flicked back backed up his stoked stories. All reward requires effort, in Tas you need to understand the weather and swell direction, then time your run, be prepared for a bit of a drive, then a bit of a walk. It's what the best sessions are all about. Scored every time we went to visit.

ken.vincent's picture
ken.vincent's picture
ken.vincent Friday, 6 Dec 2024 at 4:22pm

To "the dr" & Vince - Really? . Couple of blokes paddle out at a bit of mysto spot & have to be held accountable for the woes of the modern world ?. Hope you both have the insight to get your heads out of your arses.

abefox's picture
abefox's picture
abefox Sunday, 8 Dec 2024 at 12:24pm

Spent 3 months in 2017 exploring Tas... an amazing place!!! Very lucky to have known someone who had spent many years down there working the boats so had a bit of help to find a few places with magic waves, west and east coast... and no crowds :) Found a few on my own while following tracks n lucked into a few awesome sessions. One place i'd found blew me away in that it was actually closer to a large town then expected that was sorta know to have a fearsome break of its own. Walking back out the track (with my dogs) i came upon one other guy walking in who stopped n looked at me n did finger to mouth shhhhhhh.... n shhhhh is what i've done... amazing place, rugged n not a nice place to be hurt but... hey is the surfin exploration exp. Getting a bit old to do some of the tracks in now but so happy i have the memories.

Peter Reynolds's picture
Peter Reynolds's picture
Peter Reynolds Wednesday, 11 Dec 2024 at 1:38pm

Tassie is epic freeride, a must visit place for any surfer/fisherman, my handle photo is two big bucks plucked from a ledge along the coastline there, the seafood has much more fat content due to the cold water, the abalone are everywhere and are sensational eating, had many sessions whereby we would surf a very uncrowded wave then dive along the coast and get a feed of abalone and rock lobster and take it back to the campsite and share with everyone (not may tourists brave the cold water and go diving) I gave a fair few mainland aussies their first ever taste of abalone and lobster due to it being too expensive for them to buy. The waves are consistently average to fair, the locals are mostly happy to share some knowledge, the only drawback is thick rubber all year round unfortunately.

Peter Reynolds's picture
Peter Reynolds's picture
Peter Reynolds Wednesday, 11 Dec 2024 at 2:48pm

As for the crowds increasing? It would be for sure, everywhere in Australia is getting more populated, are the crowds a problem though? No way. I was there 5 years ago and the most people I surfed with would have been 10 people max. Most sessions were solo or 2 or 3 out, its cold, bloody cold even in summer so not many are up for that. I did the hike into shippies with my mrs and 2 kids, was flat as a lake that day but a great walk. The most populated part of that trip was the wineglass bay hike, ridiculous crowds up there.

marbles's picture
marbles's picture
marbles Sunday, 15 Dec 2024 at 5:37pm

Marti has delivered a fitting tribute to this crew. James and Tyler detail their bravery as surfers but also demonstrate their quality as men. A recommended read.