CLASSIC SURFERS QUOTES

When you're surfing you're not thinking about where you parked the car or what you're going to do when you grow up or what you're going to buy when you've got lots of money. You know, you're just there. You're in the moment. And I think in a contemporary world, that's a rare privilege.
Tim Winton

Read more at: http://www.azquotes.com/author/18728-Tim_Winton

Back when the ASP commentary team was supplemented by whichever random ex pros were hanging around and it was all shit talking and nostalgia, someone told a story about Poto David (who'd just appeared out of some bushes ). When asked what his strategy was for his heat, he said, 'I will float over ze section to win ze contest'.

For the next hour or so every time a surfer did a floater the whole commentary booth with chime in with '...and so and so 'FLOATS OVER THE SECTION TO WIN ZE CONTEST'!, then they'd all fall about laughing and forget to commentate the rest of the wave.

Still chuckle thinking about it.

"The biggest sin in the world would be if i lost my love for the ocean" - Laird Hamilton

Ha ha the last trip I did over there, 2019, the captain and crew were calling it HT's. Yet when we went around the corner, it was Lances Left!!!! Ive always adhered to Lances right, in respect.

I met Lance at LHI back in about 95(?) and he told me the story of finding the joint and the subsequent interactions with crew who have a little less respect for the preservation of a quiet line up than he did . My words not his.

Anyway....friendly enough bloke. He found it so it’s always Lance’s right.