Sydney, Hunter and Illawarra Surf Forecast (Fri 6h Dec)

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Craig started the topic in Friday, 6 Dec 2013 at 11:09am

Sydney, Hunter and Illawarra Surf Forecast by Craig Brokensha (issued Friday 6th December)

Best Days: Saturday and Sunday for experienced surfers, Monday morning, Tuesday morning

Recap

A fun mix of easing Ely swell from the middle of the week and NE windswell amounted to 2-3ft across most open beaches yesterday morning with a light variable breeze from the south. The surf cleaned up during the morning as a fresh W'ly wind kicked in but the swell dropped quickly, backing off to a small and inconsistent 1-2ft during the late afternoon as offshore winds strengthened.

This morning a small new S'ly swell was breaking across south facing beaches around 2ft, although Bondi and the Hunter region were picking up larger 2-3ft sets. This swell was generated by a fetch of strong to gale-force S/SW winds developing off the Southern NSW Coast and we should see a further increase in size to 3-5ft across south facing beaches later this afternoon, although local winds will go onshore from the S/SE.

This weekend (Dec 7 - 8)

We're looking at a large weekend of S'ly swell as a deep and powerful low pressure system stalls in the Southern Tasman Sea today, aiming a fetch of gale to severe-gale S/SW winds through our swell window (pictured right).

Yesterday's change and today's building swell are linked to the system moving into the Tasman Sea, but a broad fetch of strong to gale-force S/SW winds generated up the Southern NSW Coast today will produce a medium to large sized S'ly swell for tomorrow morning.

A much stronger and larger S'ly groundswell is expected late in the afternoon though generated by the core winds around the centre of the low, reaching 6ft at south facing beaches across Sydney, with larger sets likely at offshore reefs.

Winds will be great during the morning and light offshore from the W/NW before tending variable late morning ahead of a weak E/SE sea breeze.

The large S'ly groundswell is expected to peak overnight and drop slowly through Sunday while swinging more S/SE in direction and early light NW winds will quickly strengthen from the NE, favouring south facing beaches.

Just a note, this swell will be only for experienced surfers, and beginners should stick to sheltered southern corners or stay out of the water.

Next week (Dec 9 onwards)

The low will weaken slowly through Saturday and move out of our swell window resulting in a drop in S/SE groundswell through Monday and further Tuesday. In saying this, Monday morning should still provide excellent waves across south facing beaches under NW tending fresh NE winds.

There's nothing major on the cards for the rest of next week, with a small NE windswell for Tuesday morning and then weak S'ly windswell through Wednesday and Thursday therefore make the most of the coming weekend of waves!