Weak surf for the coming days

Craig Brokensha picture
Craig Brokensha (Craig)

Victorian Surf Forecast by Craig Brokensha (issued Monday 19th November)

Best Days: Exposed beaches for the keen this morning, mid-late morning tomorrow and Wednesday morning, early Friday Surf Coast for the keen, Saturday morning Surf Coast, exposed beaches Sunday morning

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Small, weak mix of background SW swell and SE windswell tomorrow and Wed, easing Thu
  • Strong, easing E/SE tending E/NE winds, ahead of strong SE sea breezes tomorrow
  • Fresh E/NE-NE tending SE winds Wed
  • Light-mod E/NE-NE tending weak SE winds Thu
  • Moderate sized, inconsistent SW groundswell building Fri, peaking in the PM, easing Sat
  • Freshening SW tending S/SW winds Fri (possibly W/NW early), with NW tending fresh SW-S/SW winds mid-AM Sat
  • Variable winds Sun AM with smaller surf

Recap

There wasn't much to the SW groundswell due on Saturday morning with the Surf Coast coming in a little under expectations and to 3ft, with larger 4-5ft sets to the east. Conditions weren't ideal and best in selected spots to the east, similar yesterday morning with a drop in size.

This morning is smaller with cleaner conditions on the beaches though a slow 2ft to occasionally 3ft. The Surf Coast is weak and 2ft with a swell running from the SE.

Wobbly sets this AM

This week and weekend (Dec 20 - 25)

The coming week of surf isn't too favourable for surf at all unfortunately.

A strong high that's been dominating our winds and swell window through last week and the weekend is slowly moving east, and with this we'll see winds continue to clock more north-east over the coming days.

Tomorrow morning will still see strong but easing E/SE tending E/NE winds, giving into sea breezes from early afternoon along with very slow 2ft sets on the exposed beaches to the east and SE windswell to 2ft+ on the Surf Coast. The afternoon winds should kick up more size to 2-3ft but with very low quality.

Easing surf from 2ft is due across both regions on Wednesday as winds tip E/NE-NE during the morning, giving into SE sea breezes again from early afternoon.

Thursday looks to be a low point in surf and winds will be lighter, tending E/NE-NE again through the morning ahead of weaker sea breezes ahead of a surface trough and freshening SW tending S/SW change on Friday.

The arrival of the trough will be timed unfortunately with the arrival of a moderate sized SW groundswell.

This swell is being generated by a polar frontal progression that's currently just east of the Heard Island region, with a fetch of W/SW gales being projected east. We'll see the storm weakening into this evening, with the swell due to arrive overnight Thursday and build through Friday ahead of a peak into the afternoon.

It'll be inconsistent but sets to 3ft+ are due on the Surf Coast as it peaks into the afternoon, 4-5ft+ to the east but with those freshening SW winds. There's a chance for an early W/NW'ly but the swell will be slower and 2-3ft on the Surf Coast.

It looks like we'll see winds tip NW temporarily Saturday morning as the groundswell eases back from an inconsistent 3ft on the sets across the Surf Coast, 4-5ft to the east, though another trough looks to shift winds SW-S/SW mid-morning.

Sunday morning looks to offer a window on the beaches with variable winds and smaller surf as we fall in between swell pulses.

Longer term, a couple of deep, powerful lows are expected to form south-west of Western Australia later in the week and into the weekend, generating some possibly sizey surf into early next week. Winds look to have an easterly bias but we'll have a closer look at this on Wednesday.

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 20 Dec 2022 at 8:00am

ABC News:

"A search is underway for four people who failed to return home from the beach at Rosebud, on Victoria's Mornington Peninsula last night. Two men and two women, aged 18 and 19, are believed to have been using inflatable paddle boards at the beach just off Point Nepean Road. Police were alerted to their disappearance when locals reported unattended belongings on the beach around 8pm yesterday. The search was paused around 4am due to poor conditions and is yet to resume."

Winds were light and variable at South Channel Island until 3pm, then went fresh SE - gusting 27kts by 7:30pm - before veering E'ly.

Depending on the time they entered the water (if before 3pm, conditions would have been deceptively 'safe'), this wind regime could have potentially blown them out of the Heads.

I really hope they're OK.

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Tuesday, 20 Dec 2022 at 8:06am

Rosebud to the heads is a helluva long way

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 20 Dec 2022 at 8:19am

It's a little until 10km (under a NW heading, i.e. under a SE breeze) out to South Channel Fort, which is reasonably well positioned upstream from the heads, if the breeze were to swing E'ly.

I'm unaware of the inshore currents in the Bay, but a drifting speed of 1-2kts (or 3-4km/hr) would put them out by the fort within 3-4 hours.

Tidal currents at the Heads can be in the 8-10kt range (16-20km/hr) though it's much weaker away from the Heads.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 20 Dec 2022 at 8:26am

Looks like the low linked to early next week's groundswell will 'bomb' with it originating from a tropical depression between South Africa and Madagascar.

It'll be absorbed into the westerly storm track and provide the catalyst for a significant deepening to the south-west of Western Australia on Friday.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 20 Dec 2022 at 9:16am

Found on the Bellarine, Swan Island! Wow, long journey.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 20 Dec 2022 at 10:20am

Very lucky - must have arrived before the wind went E'ly. Could have been a much different scenario if the wind and tide went against them.

They ended up covering 21km. Imagine the horror of an ocean freighter bearing down on you in the pitch black with no navigation signals!

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Tuesday, 20 Dec 2022 at 11:01am

Holy shit!

Bnkref's picture
Bnkref's picture
Bnkref Tuesday, 20 Dec 2022 at 2:07pm

Holy shit. That's full on.

During lockdowns when I couldn't get to the coast I did a fair bit of flatwater paddling in the bay. Entertained the idea of going from Albert Park jetty across to Williamstown but that puts you right in the firing line of the big freighters so I gave that a miss.

Shaqdi's picture
Shaqdi's picture
Shaqdi Tuesday, 20 Dec 2022 at 9:20pm

Great to know they are safe. Its a freak out to see people take inflatables and SUPs out in an offshore.

I lifeguarded a swim race that went from Sandridge to Williamstown. It was a crazy event. A slight wind would wreak havoc.

Stok's picture
Stok's picture
Stok Tuesday, 20 Dec 2022 at 10:15am

Those Easterly's really howl down here....could easily see it blowing people offshore. Luckily in the bay and away from rip's current, but it'd still be very bumpy with wind chop. Lucky but what a journey!

GuySmiley's picture
GuySmiley's picture
GuySmiley Tuesday, 20 Dec 2022 at 12:05pm
Guzmund's picture
Guzmund's picture
Guzmund Tuesday, 20 Dec 2022 at 7:41pm

Yeah great outcome. Luckily didn’t get separated from paddle board.