Good swells for Friday but onshore, cleaner over the weekend

Craig Brokensha picture
Craig Brokensha (Craig)

Victoria Forecast by Craig Brokensha (issued Wednesday 7th June)

Best Days: Both regions tomorrow morning, Surf Coast Saturday, both regions Sunday and Monday, Surf Coast Tuesday morning, both regions next Thursday

Recap

Poor conditions across all but a few selected locations yesterday with a strong onshore change and kick in local windswell on top of the existing groundswell.

Today winds have eased but remained onshore across the Surf Coast with easing 3-4ft sets, while the Mornington Peninsula was cleaner with a more variable breeze and 4-6ft sets.

Winds have since become more variable on the Surf Coast creating cleaner conditions and more inviting surf. We should see conditions remain fun into this afternoon though as winds remain variable all day, so check cams and coast for a paddle.

This week and weekend (June 8 – 11)

The surf will become smaller tomorrow and a light morning NW-N/NW breeze will favour the Surf Coast and selected locations east of Melbourne. Easing 2ft waves are due, with 3-4ft sets on the Mornington Peninsula. An onshore change is due into the afternoon, so try and get a wave in through the morning.

This change will be associated with the remnants of the strong storm linked to a powerful new W/SW groundswell due into Friday.

Mid-period W/SW energy will be seen Friday morning from the front passing under the country ahead of the larger less consistent long-period swell into the afternoon.

We should see 3ft sets on the Surf Coast through the morning and 4-5ft+ waves on the Mornington Peninsula, building to 4ft and 6ft to occasionally 8ft respectively across both regions later in the day.

Unfortunately winds look onshore from the S/SW in the wake of tomorrow's change creating average conditions across both coasts.

More variable winds Saturday should tend W/NW across the Surf Coast creating cleaner conditions as the swell eases from 4ft on the sets, with 6ft+ waves to the east.

Sunday looks best east of Melbourne with light local offshore breezes and a slow drop in size. Sets will still be solid on the beaches though and around 4-5ft, smaller Monday but clean again.

The easing trend will be slow through Sunday and Monday due to persistent W/NW fetches moving through our swell window under the country through the end of this week.

Into early next week a mix of very inconsistent long-range W/SW groundswell and small SW groundswell spreading off an unfavourable but strong pre-frontal NW fetch are due.

We're not looking at any major size with small 2ft+ waves on the Surf Coast Tuesday and 3-5ft sets to the east.

Longer term a very significant storm developing around the Heard Island region this weekend with a broad fetch of severe-gales and stronger storm-force core winds produced through our far swell window.

This will generate an inconsistent but powerful long-period W/SW groundswell, but a secondary strong front spawning off the original storm will generate an additional fetch of severe-gale W/SW winds through our western swell window Sunday evening and Monday while projecting closer to us.

Two good swells will result, arriving similar times, kicking later Wednesday and peaking through Thursday. Winds look great at this stage and form the north, but we'll review this Friday.

Comments

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 7 Jun 2017 at 1:24pm

Much better conditions this afternoon..

memlasurf's picture
memlasurf's picture
memlasurf Wednesday, 7 Jun 2017 at 2:03pm

Craig we have had some monster tides lately up to 1.8 from a low of .3. Normally a 1.4 is about average what causes these huge tides? I thought it was more related to the equinoxes however this time of year it weird.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 7 Jun 2017 at 2:36pm

You're talking about the end of May yes? It would be due to the timing of the alignment of the moon, sun and earth.

The largest tides are observed when the moon is closest to us and in alignment with the sun on either side of the earth as shown here..

Whether this changes year by year I'm guessing yes.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 7 Jun 2017 at 2:41pm

Having a look at the tidal history data, the king tides look to be around the same time each year, withing 5-10 days.

memlasurf's picture
memlasurf's picture
memlasurf Thursday, 8 Jun 2017 at 2:20pm

Thanks Craig you learn something new every day. Is this the only times of the year that there are king tides?

Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone Wednesday, 7 Jun 2017 at 6:53pm

have they altered the tide datum over the years? around 10 years ago, a 1.5 was a big thing. all the little reefs would open up. Yet now we get 1.7-1.8 tides and those same reefs seem more shallow.

crustt's picture
crustt's picture
crustt Thursday, 8 Jun 2017 at 5:29am

Yeah Nick I have noticed it also, an 0.5 low looks really low to my eye. Years ago we used to get tide that were close to 0.0, I think we still do but they are listed at around 0.1+

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 8 Jun 2017 at 5:47am

Interesting, not due to this phenomena? The Inverse Barometer Effect

Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone Thursday, 8 Jun 2017 at 6:31am

i read that article when it wsa posted (and now try to incorperate it to tides) but for examaple, a little reef has the name 1.6's as you needed a 1.6 tide for to work, whereas now a 1.6 out there would be dry..

memlasurf's picture
memlasurf's picture
memlasurf Thursday, 8 Jun 2017 at 2:19pm

Not related to free range is it Nick as I now this one by a different name? Yeah I agree 1.7 to 1.8 seems to put it under water.

geek's picture
geek's picture
geek Thursday, 8 Jun 2017 at 10:12am

I knew 3 days of offshores over a long weekend was to good to be true this time of year :-(

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 8 Jun 2017 at 12:05pm

BOM upgraded their tides a few years ago. Can't find the press release but they added a number of new locations in and around the Mornington Peninsula (ocean side and bay side), and this has obviously improved the accuracy.