Fun NE swell Tuesday; small flukey sources thereafter

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

Sydney, Hunter and Illawarra Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Monday 30th January)

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Best Days: No great days due to the small surf size. Tues probably the pick with a fun NE windswell and a period of light winds through mid/late morning.

Recap: A small distant south swell created fun 2ft waves across south facing beaches on Saturday, before a NE swell rounded out the second half of the weekend with peaky sets up to 2ft as well. Freshening N/NE winds on Saturday gave way to a shallow southerly change on Sunday. Today we’ve seen a continuation of N/NE windswell across Southern NSW around 2ft, with early light N’ly winds now refreshening from the NNE. The local windswell is slowly building in size too.


Peaky NE swell at Manly this afternoon

This week (Jan 31st - Feb 3rd)

Not much on the cards this week.

Our primary swell windows will remain devoid of significant swell generating activity so we’ll be relying on local flukey sources to keep the beaches active. 

Today’s N/NE breeze will strengthen towards a peak this evening before easing through Tuesday morning as a shallow trough change pushes up the coast, bringing a southerly change up to about Sydney latitudes or thereabouts. These overnight NE winds should kick up some more of what we’re seeing today, but the trend will ease through Tuesday - expect early 2-3ft+ sets at NE swell magnets through the morning, and with some luck the trough should create a period of variable winds allowing surface conditions to be quite reasonable.

The southerly change won’t haver a lot of strength some regions south of the Illawarra may see a few hours of gusty conditions but it should ease into the late afternoon. But for most Sydney/Hunter/Illawarra coasts the best conditions will probably happen through mid-late morning and maybe early afternoon.

Smaller levels of NE swell will then pad out Wednesday along with a similarly small mix of short range S’ly swell from the fetch trailing the change. Exposed beaches may see occasional 1-2ft sets but that’s about as good as it’s likely to get. Light variable winds are expected under a coastal troughy pattern so there should be a decent period of small peaky shore breaks if you’re keen.

As a side note, Tuesday and Wednesday may see very small, inconsistent lines from the south, originating from the stationary polar low that’s occupied the waters well S/SE of New Zealand for the last few weeks. 

The rest of the week will see very small surf from a variety of source, unfortunately without any major strength. The trades are broadening across the Northern Tasman Sea and we’ll see small levels of E/NE swell across Southern NSW (1-2ft max). A modest, stationary N’ly fetch off the Mid North Coast may generate very small NE swells for the region, and we may also see very small levels of refracted southerly groundswell from passing frontal systems in the Southern Ocean - though they’re poorly aligned so we won’t see much energy at all. 

Local winds on Thursday and Friday will remain variable under a continuing troughy pattern, possibly S’ly on Thursday then NE on Friday but without any major strength.

This weekend (Feb 4th - 5th)

Small swells are expected this weekend. The same sources mention above (modest trade flow, small polar low S/SE off New Zealand) will continue to generate very small, inconsistent lines for exposed beaches but there’s nothing worth working around.

The only source that could produce small fun waves is a minor restrengthening of the stationary N’ly fetch off the Mid North Coast. It’s not very well aligned and not expected to be very strong but could building small NE swells into the 2ft range through Sunday (smaller Saturday).

So all in all, another uninspiring weekend of waves ahead but let’s see what Wednesday’s forecast update has in store for us.

Next week (Feb 6th onwards)

Still nothing major on the long term charts either; the only source to consider for swell is the increasing trade flow across the Northern Tasman Sea. It won’t be very well aimed for our region but the upside is that these kinds of swell events - albeit small - are long lived, meaning we should see some persistent but just-rideable E/NE energy through most of next week.

Here’s hoping the charts spin off a decent Tasman Sea system before then though.

Comments

yodai's picture
yodai's picture
yodai Monday, 30 Jan 2017 at 5:13pm

the rot continues!

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy Monday, 30 Jan 2017 at 7:42pm

Just when it seemed it couldn't get worse......it did. I would guess, in Sydney, the average summer temperature is inversely proportional to average wave height.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 30 Jan 2017 at 9:08pm

Yeah we're on track to beat the record for the hottest number of days above 35.5 during summer by early next week.

And that's with the whole of February to come!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 31 Jan 2017 at 8:14am

Bugger. Swell peaked around midnight but has eased rapidly since then, so it's smaller than expected this morning. Sydney Ports buoy shows it all:

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 31 Jan 2017 at 8:20am

Still some clean 2ft sets at Manly though.


Chris Buykx's picture
Chris Buykx's picture
Chris Buykx Tuesday, 31 Jan 2017 at 8:23am

If this morning was meant to be the best day this week - things are crook!
Paddled out at 5.30 - totally underwhelming!

Manly South Steyne Right Off The Rocks's picture
Manly South Steyne Right Off The Rocks's picture
Manly South Ste... Tuesday, 31 Jan 2017 at 8:46am

For someone that only moved here in September from sunny North Devon, is the consistency normally better at this time of year? Thanks O

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Tuesday, 31 Jan 2017 at 10:04am

Yeah it usually is. The spring months are traditionally the leanest on the East Coast, and then things begin ticking over again in summer when the north swells appear. This year, however, there's been a distinct lack of tropical disturbances in the Coral Sea plus the trade wind belt that flows easterly toward SE QLD/Nthn NSW has barely fired up.

Northern swell magnets in Sydney, such as Manly, would ordinarily get background energy from the tradewind belt, but the only north swells thus far are very localised NE wind swells.

It's been frustrating in Sydney, but diabolical in SE QLD.

cswells's picture
cswells's picture
cswells Tuesday, 31 Jan 2017 at 9:58am

Hey guys, I've recently moved to Sydney from Adelaide and am trying to work out the best conditions for Maroubra.

I haven't ventured to the other beaches, but am I right in thinking the best conditions for swell and wind are an E / ENE / ESE swell with W / WNW / WSW winds?

I'm still trying to learn to read charts a bit better!

Cheers

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Tuesday, 31 Jan 2017 at 10:07am

Yeah, that's pretty much right. Maroubra prefers E and N swells compared to, say, Bondi, which is a south swell spot.

Easiest way is to look at 'em on a map: What direction are they most exposed to? Which winds will be offshore?

cswells's picture
cswells's picture
cswells Tuesday, 31 Jan 2017 at 10:17am

Awesome - thanks Stu.

I keep reading your forecaster notes which helps paint a better picture, cheers!

edit* + thermalben's reports

Manly South Steyne Right Off The Rocks's picture
Manly South Steyne Right Off The Rocks's picture
Manly South Ste... Tuesday, 31 Jan 2017 at 10:15am

Cheers Stu, good to know it does get better. I'll be crossing my fingers for a tropical disturbance sometime soon!

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 31 Jan 2017 at 10:29am

This morning was super disappointing.

2ft+ at dawn and looking fun, by the time I got to surf just after 8am it was back to 1-2ft and when I left only 1ft+.

Terrible summer.

cswells's picture
cswells's picture
cswells Tuesday, 31 Jan 2017 at 10:56am

Has it been a fairly slow summer comparatively? I've found on one of my grovellers it's still a struggle.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 31 Jan 2017 at 11:08am

Yep, it's been really average.

batfink's picture
batfink's picture
batfink Tuesday, 31 Jan 2017 at 1:50pm

Probably as bad a summer as I can remember. I was on holidays for a good part of it and can vouch for the lack of swell.

tangles 65's picture
tangles 65's picture
tangles 65 Tuesday, 31 Jan 2017 at 2:36pm

plus the banks are still crap from 06/06/16 swell...on my local beach anyway..

cswells's picture
cswells's picture
cswells Tuesday, 31 Jan 2017 at 3:33pm

Can definitely vouch for the poor banks. The only days that seemed to push through any decent swell in recent weeks was the w/e of the Carve Pro, and the banks didn't seem to hold at all.

batfink's picture
batfink's picture
batfink Tuesday, 31 Jan 2017 at 3:47pm

Maroubra banks have been pretty bad for a long time CS, as has much of the east coast going back another 12 to 18 months before the last June mega event. There's a PhD in it.

cswells's picture
cswells's picture
cswells Wednesday, 1 Feb 2017 at 8:19am

I remember seeing shots of the June event (I wasn't in Syd at the time). Are you able to link me to the PhD paper on it?

Manly South Steyne Right Off The Rocks's picture
Manly South Steyne Right Off The Rocks's picture
Manly South Ste... Tuesday, 31 Jan 2017 at 6:50pm

Sensing some serious surf frustration today!

Manly South Steyne Right Off The Rocks's picture
Manly South Steyne Right Off The Rocks's picture
Manly South Ste... Tuesday, 31 Jan 2017 at 6:51pm

I blame trump...

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy Tuesday, 31 Jan 2017 at 8:09pm

Well at least I now have a thorough knowledge of how to use my quiver to extract something from the energy available. 2ft plus, 5 spark as a thruster. 1-2ft, 5 spark as a quad. Less than 1ft - the 7'5"! Surprising how much fun you can have if you lower your expectations and it is done wonders for the crowd factor!