Lots of quality surf expected with E then S swells and mostly offshore winds
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW by Steve Shearer (issued Wed July 10th)
Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)
- Fun sized E’ly swells Thurs with SW-S winds
- E’ly swells build Fri under “trough-block” scenario with light offshore winds expected
- E’ly swells peak over the weekend with mostly offshore winds
- New S swell filling in Sun, favouring NENSW for size
- Easing E’ly swells next week overlapped by S swells from Mon
- Last pulse of E swell likely later Mon into Tues
- Stronger S swells likely Wed/Thurs, depending on position of low in Tasman
- More sizey S swell likely next weekend
Recap
Fun sized E’ly swells were in the 2-3ft range yesterday with some S groundswell in the mix in NENSW. Conditions were generally clean- still a bit of lump and bump around- under light winds. Clean conditions again today under light/variable winds with more 3ft surf from the E and some tasty waves around.
This week (July 10-12)
A trough is currently clearing the coast, expected to anchor a broad E’ly fetch generated by a monster high straddling New Zealand. This anchored trough fetch, or trough block pattern is favourable for swell production for almost the entire Eastern Seaboard and will come with mostly offshore winds until the weekend brings a more S’ly biased flow to temperate NSW. We’ll see remnants of a small low at the terminus of the trough get captured over the weekend and generate S swells from the return flow of a regenerated low. Those swells are still looking a bit tricky to call as the new low ducks back in close to or behind Tasmania. We’ll sketch it out now and revisit details Fri.
In the short run and the current signal of E/NE swell hangs in the 3ft range with offshore W-SW winds early before a S’ly flow develops as a circulation forms in the trough line. This S’ly should stay light/mod in NENSW, a notch stronger in SEQLD.
Similar size Fri morning. Winds will shift Fri as the circulation in the trough line moves south. We should see offshore W’ly winds, before winds shift SW in the a’noon. We will see a muscling up in size Fri mid-morning, as a prelude to a stronger increase over the weekend as windspeeds intensify into the circulation in the trough line. Size should push up into the 3-4 occ. 5ft range by lunch-time.
This weekend (July 13-14)
We get a size upgrade over the weekend as a result of gales feeding into the circulation Fri. That would suggest a stronger, longer period E’ly swell with 5-6ft sets, possibly bigger at E facing magnets on the MNC. Pumping in other words. Straight offshore W’ly winds tending SW in the a’noon. Sat looks the goods.
We’ll see a mix of easing E and new S swell Sun from the return flow off the low (see below). We’ll see the E’ly swell come off the boil, with size to 4-5ft easing during the day and new S swell building to 4ft during the day in NENSW, smaller 2-3ft in SEQLD. Early W-SW winds should tend mod SW-S during the day.
Next week (July 15 onwards)
Bit of a tricky outlook for next week. Looks like the trough block fetch re-energises close to the North Island late in the weekend into Mon (see below). That should give us one last pulse of E’ly swell filling in on the declining swell from that direction. We should see that pulse later Mon into Tues, back up into the 3-5ft range under W-SW tending SW-S winds.
Mon looks to stabilise in the 3-4ft range with E and S swells with winds shifting offshore as the low formed over the weekend drifts SW back towards Tasmania.
Depending on the position of the low early next week we’ll be up for a stronger pulse of S swell generated by gales around the western flank of the low. That should see surf rebuild from the S Wed into the 4-5ft range. Expect revision to these estimates on Fri once we get a clearer picture of how that low will behave as it meanders around in the lower Tasman.
Offshore winds through most of next week should offer a wide range of good/great conditions across the region.
Broadly speaking surf should slowly come down from that peak later next week.
We may see a strong new low/frontal progression linked to a cold outbreak push into the Tasman late next week (see below). Under this scenario we’d expect more strong S swell later next weekend. Plenty of action ahead so check in Friday for the latest updates.
Seeya then.
Comments
Fun lunchtime sesh today, nice peaky waves with light winds, almost empty lineup too. Now pissing down with a small but intense cell in the far NE corner of the state.
Drove through that cell on the way home from Bribie.
Few 3ft sets here on dark with a really weak seabreeze on it.
she's changed a bit the old island huh ,
10 times as many people now as when I was growing up there.
Still ,mostly national park so easy to find space in nature and the Passage is still amazing.
Not wrong, spent my high school years there in the late 90s.
Great place to grow up (despite the waves - unless went up the beach), glad I left though
spot on mate, ive been here a while myself and watched it change a lot.
i used to work with your funny little b/inlaw , so know a few of the older crew youd know
FR76 Did you know Phil (?) Nitschke the shaper from Bribie? I surfed in the late 80's with his son Ben for a few years out of Caloundra.
Pretty pumped for this weekend! Just really hoping it’s not all close outs up here on the SC. Fingers crossed.
It will be. The banks have been shite here lately
Unfortunately this. Even putting the O in **O** hasn't helped. Will be avoiding sand.
Have any of the SC crew noticed how terrible the Coolum Bays have become since the La Niña summers began in 2020-21? There’s plenty of sand there now, but for the most part it’s always a dog’s breakfast. I’ve struggled to workout why. One thing I have observed is that even though there is sand there now, there isn’t actually a true beach like there used to be prior to the erosion wrought by those aforementioned summers. The high water mark frequently comes up to the base of the cliffs/steep embankment, making the beach behave as though the sea level were 10-20cm higher than it used.
Has ASCAT-C gone down?
Yes. Scroll down and you will find a working satellite.
Agh, it's been flakey the past few weeks. Hopefully data is there, but it's just not showing.
Cooking for the dawnie this morning!
any chance the swell picks up overnight and winds are sw early on the gc?
I wouldn't expect any major increase but there should be 3ft sets easy.
Winds SW.
so frothing broke my scaphoid 8 wks ago on the mtb, and tomorrow is my first foray back into the briny!!! looks like there are waves for days!
Looking really nice this morning. Just a little more on the top end.
Swell has a wonderful building feel to it.
Oddly better, bigger and more consistent with the tide going out before low at 6:30 where I was. 3ft sets at best. Got out at 8:30, definitely no size increase that I saw. If anything it felt like it got smaller. Wave buoy seems to agree. Fun morning all the same.
Got out a first light, surfed until 7. Tide too low really but a couple, should be good about now I reckon. Not really bigger than yesterday at same time.
Beautiful sunrise and early morning glow.
Fingers crossed for tomorrow and Sunday!
Thats interesting. How was the wind up there?
Beautiful clean offshore morning, was a bit further south, I COLLdn't tell you what home was like.
What's with the RIB running very close through the line up at Greeny? Definitely a bit more energy that yesterday morning
Definitely more size to it here this morning. More lines too.