E'ly swell keeps on keeping on over the weekend and into next week, with light winds ahead
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Fri Feb 16th)
Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)
- Extended run of trade swell continues rebuilding again Thurs, peaking Fri at solid levels
- Back to SE winds Fri, lighter on the weekend
- Plenty of fun E swell over the weekend- down a notch on Fri
- More E swell next week with light winds Mon-Wed at least
- Small S swell pulses Tues/Wed next week
Recap
Pulsey E’ly swell continues with yesterday seeing a range of wave heights - mostly in the 3ft range with some bigger sets showing in the a’noon. There were definitely some soft/slow periods to sit through. Winds were generally light and E-SE although a true morning land breeze was lacking across most of the region. Rain and E-E/SE wind today are confining surf to Points and there are some chunky 4-5ft sets coming though long waits for them with most waves in the 3ft range.
This weekend (Feb 17-18)
High pressure belt remains strong with cells lined up to enter the Tasman. A monsoonal low in the Gulf of Carpenteria is generating a long cloud band down the east coast. A long, broad E’ly tradewind fetch extends from the Coral Sea into the South Pacific with the tail of the fetch in Tahitian longitudes.
No great change to the weekend f/cast- winds still look OK for the Points with light morning breezes (SW-S) both days offering a chance for morning beachbreaks tending to E-SE breezes that shouldn’t exceed 10/15 knots. A bit of bump but generally surfable through the day.
E swell from the long tradewind band offers up 3-4ft surf through Sat, although be prepared for some pulses and soft/slow patches due to the travel distance and nature of the fetch (showing diurnal variation).
That swell looks to slowly level of and soften further through Sun, so best get in early.
There will be traces of S swell Sun but only really showing the odd set at S facing beaches in NENSW, if at all.
Next week (Feb19 onwards)
A frontal system tracking under Tasmania has a wide but zonal fetch through Sun/Mon. That will send pulses of mid and longer period S swell wrap for Tues/Wed. Likely in the 2-3ft range Tues a’noon and holding at that size Wed morning before easing.
Winds will be light for the first half of next week at least with variable land breezes in the morning and light SE-E/SE winds in the a’noon.
Through this period and in fact most of next week we’ll continue to see pulsey E’ly swells coming off the deep E’ly fetch. A tropical low in Samoan longitudes drifts SE and is not a significant swell source.There will be ups and downs in size as the fetch fluctuates but 3 occ. bigger sets look likely through the first half of next week.
We may see some larger embedded pulses as a tropical low drifts southwards through the South Pacific slot next week but models are divergent over the strength of that low so we’ll pencil in the possibility of larger 4ft surf Thurs/Fri next week (nothing that should need a step-up) and see how it looks Mon.
Winds shift light NE’ly later next week - from Wed-Fri south of Ballina, remaining more E’ly north of the border.
A front brings a S’ly change late Sat or Sun and some new S-SE swell with it. EC has a stronger frontal system with some short range S-SE swell likely Sun with the SE surge and mid period S swell filling in behind it while GFS has a weaker system, decaying as it enters the Tasman and not much behind it all.
It’s likely we’ll see some sort of S swell next weekend but we’ll take a look with fresh eyes on Mon.
Tropics are still looking active into the end of model runs although with nothing specific to talk about at the moment. Check back Mon for that too.
Seeya then and a have a great weekend!
Comments
What does “diurnal variation” mean? That it will be tidally affected?
Variation in strength between night and day- those tradewind bands tend to fluctuate through a 12-24 hr period.
Ah, got it; thanks freeride!
Very interesting, never knew about this.
Pretty classic
Currently offshore, wonder if it will hold until the morning
Drove down to Evans yesterday and got skunked. Didnt make that mistake today, scored 4ft+ pumping rivermouth/beachies. Awesome.
Yip today was cooking if you knew where to look. At about 7:40am a rain/wind squall came through and shortly after the ocean went silky smooth with some high quality tea peas everywhere
Glad you scored man, tomorrow looking very clean for the early. Hope there's still a bit of swell
If you go somewhere quiet and get waves make sure to post it on here so everyone knows, you prawn.
Yeah Top Tank I'm hearing you - this adsi is a punish
Could only imagine what he'd be like in the water
Didn't happen unless you tell someone/post about it/flex about it
Jesus man, i literally posted saying i went to Evans and it was crap. Didn't name any spot that was good so dunno what you're sooking about?
Calling someone a punish who you don't even know, i was just stoked about scoring good waves.
Imagine being such a miserable arse that you're calling names online for being stoked about scoring waves, on a bloody surf website of all things haha.
Get a life.