Another week of small S swells with some tradewind swell developing this weekend

Steve Shearer picture
Steve Shearer (freeride76)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Mon 10th July)

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Typical winter week ahead with small S swell pulses due Mon/Tues and Wed PM/Thurs, favouring NENSW for size, mostly tiny in SEQLD
  • Peaky tradewind swell developing this weekend and extending into next week
  • Possible low pressure in the Tasman later next week, low confidence now, check back Wed for latest update

Recap

Small waves over the weekend with Sat seeing mostly 2ft surf at S facing beaches in NENSW with a few of the better S swell magnets topping out at 2-3ft. W winds tended W/NW then mod NW-N before  W’ly winds kicked in o/night Sat. Sun was smaller, 1-2ft at better S swell magnets, 1ft or less elsewhere with fresh W’lies. Swell picked up overnight with today seeing 3ft of S swell, bigger 4ft at select S swell magnets and small 2ft at S facing beaches in SEQLD, groomed by offshore winds.

A few small S swell lines creeping up to the border

This week (Jul 10-14)

Another week begins with a classic winter El Niño pattern. High pressure over the continent with a W’ly flow being enhanced by a series of mobile fronts and parent lows, sending small S swell pulses our way. Nothing of any size its expected due to the zonal and mobile nature of the fetches so you’ll need to find a swell magnet. Later in the week the high moves into the Tasman at roughly sub-tropical latitudes, maintaining settled conditions across most of NSW, with a reasonable ridge up the QLD Coast and some small, peaky tradewind swell developing.

In the short run we should see todays S swell size hold into tomorrow, with 2-3ft of S swell at S facing beaches , smaller 2ft  at the best SEQLD S swell magnets. Light morning W’ly winds will tend to variable breezes in the a’noon- SE south of the border , more NE in SEQLD.

High pressure will approach the east coast on Wed, with morning land breezes tending light/variable before light/mod SE breezes kick up in the a’noon. We’ll see another small pulse of S swell lateWed from the passage of todays front and low across the Tasman. Again, not much size in it, back up to 2-3ft at S facing beaches in NENSW (tops), just showing in the 1-2ft range at SEQLD S facing beaches . Otherwise, remaining tiny/flat at most breaks north of the border.

By Thurs and into the end of the week we’ll see high pressure slip out into the Tasman with a light S-SE flow developing under a weak ridge. Winds should remain W-NW early under light pressure gradients. Unfortunately, not much surf is expected. Wed’s small pulse holds through Thurs before easing with a few 2ft sets possible at S swell magnets through the day, favouring NENSW and mostly tiny in SEQLD..

Fri should see a slight bump in small, longer period S swell but topping out with 2ft sets again at S swell magnets. Keep expectations pegged appropriately low and you might find a fun wave at magnets in NENSW. 

This weekend (July 15-16)

Nothing much to get excited about for the weekend but we should see some small workable E’ly tradewind swell start to develop over the weekend. Winds should tend NW to N Sat with a’noon Nor’easters as another front approaches, before switching S-SE on Sunday as it traverses the Tasman and the leading edge of trough pushes through. The front has another zonal fetch not generating much in the way of S swell.

Tradewinds developing in the Coral Sea over the weekend should start to generate small E/NE swells, likely 1-2ft Sat, building a notch into the 2ft range Sun, favouring the Sunshine Coast. 

Small traces of S swell Sat may supply some rideable 1-2ft sets in NENSW, but it’ll be tiny elsewhere from that source.

Next week (July 17 onwards)

Small surf looks to extend into next week. GFS has a weak front pushing into the Tasman which may offer a minor S swell Mon. EC has the front being pushed well to the south by a weak, blocking high pressure cell. A high pressure surge may see increased SE winds Mon with a small increase in local SE swell, adding to the small tradewind swell signal.

High pressure and angled low pressure trough sliding down from Vanuatu to Fiji produces a strong trade flow through the South Pacific Islands, with the edge of that fetch in the Coral Sea supplying small tradewind swell for SEQLD through to mid next week.

Longer term and EC is modelling a potential trough of low pressure in the Tasman later next week which may have some good swell potential. So far, no other models are interested.

Let’s see how Wed is shaping up, hopefully with something juicier on the radar to talk about.

Comments

tiger's picture
tiger's picture
tiger Monday, 10 Jul 2023 at 2:19pm

Grim.... Feels like spring has jumped the gun.

pjbyron's picture
pjbyron's picture
pjbyron Monday, 10 Jul 2023 at 5:19pm

Jump in size this morning north of byron... head high sets although a longish wait and then straight closeouts anyway, beautiful conditions again shame about no banks where I am.

maka2000's picture
maka2000's picture
maka2000 Monday, 10 Jul 2023 at 6:36pm

this season sucks balls

NickT's picture
NickT's picture
NickT Monday, 10 Jul 2023 at 7:20pm

I only have one testicle and I'm with you Maka, it sucks Ball, plural

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 10 Jul 2023 at 7:14pm

Still some sets here this arvo.

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Monday, 10 Jul 2023 at 8:52pm

Oh how quickly people forget a couple of years of constant east swell?

hazcam's picture
hazcam's picture
hazcam Monday, 10 Jul 2023 at 9:30pm

&ab_channel=ShaneKreutzer

groovie's picture
groovie's picture
groovie Tuesday, 11 Jul 2023 at 6:32am

3ft sets here on the Mid nth Coast this morn afta several daze of NOTHING! Once again very straight south swell with no guttetrs on any beachies or sand bottom points. Generally 2 turn closeouts on 90% of waves surfed. Managed to get 3 runners in an hour & a half! Gr8 conditions just the whole coast here relies on sandbanks & everywhere is the same i.e. Too much sand= no good banks anywhere! We need a solid ECL to sort the banks out!

dazzler's picture
dazzler's picture
dazzler Tuesday, 11 Jul 2023 at 7:21am

I’m 6 weeks post surgery into a 16-20 week rehabilitation. Seems I timed it to perfection!!

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Tuesday, 11 Jul 2023 at 8:55am

You sure did! I haven't had a good surf in ages down around byron. Some fun smaller days but none of that classic autumn/winter long lines running down the beaches....

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 11 Jul 2023 at 10:26am

Some fun 2-3ft sets on the Tweed this morning, odd bigger bomb (certainly didn't match buoy data!), stunning conditions. Water clarity is first class. Temps down a touch though, need the springy!

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Tuesday, 11 Jul 2023 at 12:14pm

Water's fcking freezing IMO Ben!!!

Maybe I'm just getting old?? ;)

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 11 Jul 2023 at 12:34pm

Ha! All relative I reckon.. anecdotally, I reckon the water is perhaps the coldest it's been for a few years, but the buoy's still reporting 19-20 degrees. Let's see what southern states surfers think of the temp assessment...

Regardless, there was one bloke out this morning in boardies, so it can't have been too cold!

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Tuesday, 11 Jul 2023 at 1:20pm

I went out in boardies for a quick 40 min lunchtime bash.
Touch refreshing but not bad really.

Ardy's picture
Ardy's picture
Ardy Tuesday, 11 Jul 2023 at 4:24pm

That’s a new local from down Mexico way :)

ruckus's picture
ruckus's picture
ruckus Wednesday, 12 Jul 2023 at 12:16am

What you all complaining about. Boardies temps easy. Had 3 sessions last week, one pre dawn, one late arvo (overcast and rain) and one mid arvo. Boardies/Boardies/Spring suit and was too hot in the spring suit

ruckus's picture
ruckus's picture
ruckus Wednesday, 12 Jul 2023 at 12:19am

3 minute cold plunge @ 6 degree last night. That was just starting to touch the sides. Grow some balls

Ardy's picture
Ardy's picture
Ardy Wednesday, 12 Jul 2023 at 10:15am

Easy china , which part of vic you from?

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 11 Jul 2023 at 12:55pm

S swell hung in quite nicely here this morning.

Byron Buoy (4nm due east of Ballina Bar) is reading 20.2 degrees which is about a degree under seasonal averages for July.

Feels about that, but there may be some pockets of water under 20.

Temps for the dawny have been the bigger factor: apparent temps of 3-4 degrees last few mornings. That wind chill will cool you down much quicker than 20 degree water even allowing for the 25% greater thermal conductivity of seawater.

pjbyron's picture
pjbyron's picture
pjbyron Tuesday, 11 Jul 2023 at 5:39pm

Oh hell, not where I am... flat 20kms north of byron... how much further do i need to travel North to get a little more of this S swell?

Plasticspastic's picture
Plasticspastic's picture
Plasticspastic Tuesday, 11 Jul 2023 at 1:28pm

I find a few extra six packs over the weekend with some loaded fries helps form a protective layer around the kidneys which
always helps with the wind chill..

SDW's picture
SDW's picture
SDW Tuesday, 11 Jul 2023 at 9:02pm

I reckon the water temps last winter on the Sunshine Coast seemed cooler than the previous 5 winters I’ve been here for, and cooler than this winter thus far.