Standard summer fare for East Coast
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Fri 3rd Feb)
Forecast Summary (tl;dr)
- Fun weekend at the open beaches with small mix of swells and generally good AM winds
- Small mix of swells for most of next week too, generally good winds
- Occasional southerly pulses will show periodic bigger surf at south swell magnets (Mon and Thurs looking to be best days)
- Lots of dynamic options for the long term
Recap
Fun mix of peaky swells over the last few days with sets building to 2-3ft on Thursday at exposed beaches in Northern NSW, a touch smaller in SE Qld. A few bigger sets reported in Northern NSW today. Clean mornings with light winds before afternoon NE breezes cropped up.
This weekend (Feb 4-5)
A shallow southerly change is expected to push along Northern NSW on Saturday, arriving early across the Mid North Coast and probably reaching the border by lunchtime.
Ahead of it we’ll see N’ly tending NW winds along the coastal margin - strengthening a little overnight, from the current flow - and should consequently generate a small short period north swell for exposed coasts.
Though, the dominant energy will be leftover E’ly swell sourced from distant tradewinds below Fiji, and also a spread of interesting E/NE swell from a broad trough now sitting offshore. The latter system is generally aimed down the guts of the Tasman Sea (with the head of the fetch curved back towards Southern NSW) but the whole shebang is tracking south-east, which lowers confidence levels for surf prospects in Northern NSW.
Either way, sets of a similar size to today are likely, around 2-3ft at exposed beaches south of the border and probably a touch smaller to the north. There’s a fair chance early winds will veer NW so most open beaches should be fine, it’s just the eastern extremities of the coast that may see a lingering northerly to begin with.
A similar mix of slow swells from the eastern quadrant are expected Sunday, with light morning winds freshening from the SE into the afternoon (strongest between the Northern Rivers and Gold Coast) as a weak ridge develops along the coast.
Late Sunday may see a small flush of acute south swell across the Mid North Coast, from W/SW winds exiting eastern Bass Strait on Saturday. Don’t expect much size away from south swell magnets though.
Next week (Feb 6 onwards)
There’s a myriad of swell sources for next week.
However, our eastern window - whilst active - probably won’t produce much size at first.
The trades will ease back in strength south of Fiji on Sunday (not that there was much in it anyway) but a broad ridge though the Coral Sea will consolidate with the coastal ridge to provide a modest south-east flow - slightly more north of SE Qld’s swell window that is ideal - but just south enough to offer small short period E/SE swells through the first half of next week.
Early indications are that a complex trough tracking west from a position north of Fiji over the weekend may slowly develop into a tropical low, west of Vanuatu mid next week. This is itself if a difficult system to have confidence in (for a wide range of non-model guidance reasons, such as island shadowing), however one potential upshot is that it may strengthen the trade flow through the southern Coral Sea, boosting easterly swells across northern regions throughout the second half of the week.
For now, I’ll ignore any and all other possibilities from such synoptics (which may include a significant local feature off the SE Qld coast) as it’s too far away.
But, the take home message is: watch this space. It's gonna get interesting.
Elsewhere, a deep cut-off low circumnavigating the Apple Isle this weekend will generate W/SW gales through eastern Bass Strait, a flukey south swell window at the best of times. That, along with a secondary low forming further south (closer to the SW tip of NZ, on Sunday) will maintain low confidence south swell for Monday and perhaps Tuesday, really only showing at south swell magnets south of Byron (3ft sets a reasonable possibility at the more reliable spots).
A broader but ultimately weaker frontal passage much further south on Monday will then generate small to moderate southerly swells for south facing beaches through the second half of the week. Again, wave heights could reach 3ft at reliable spots though it’ll ebb and flow over the course of several days. Thursday looks to offer the best surf from this source, though there'll be waves either side.
Overall, there’ll be waves at the open beaches most days but most locations will probably remain on the smaller side of the coin.
An unstable atmospheric setup will dominate the eastern seaboard for much of next week so there’s a good chance we’ll see some dynamic upgrades in the surf outlook by the time Monday’s model runs come around. So, expect some more exciting discussion points early next week.
Have a great weekend!
Comments
Today was absolute magic
Two beaches that face the same direction relatively, NE and NNE, one was fun hip high runners, the other was really nice peaks shoulder to head high. So I agree, today was magic!
First time in ages I've had 3 fun surf's in one day!
Was weird here.
There was way more energy yesterday and today felt like waiting all day for the tide to go out for an inconsistent swell and banks that had gone really funky again.
Nothing quite managed to come together.
Was still solid but funky for the early where I surfed.
Still got some good ones before bailing as the hordes descended.
Maybe a cyclone on the cards ?
Models are very interested.
Spicy
V. much so.
You get the swell, NZ gets nailed :-/
Don't say that IB I'm heading over to Welly for a few days work next Mon - Weds, was gonna head to gizzy or the mount for the rest of the week.
Knowing my luck it'll be 50k onshores hahaha
Latest GFS run (18Z) for 6am Tuesday 13 Feb:
Hunker down somewhere dry and safe, then see if you can score afterwards. Best of luck!
Damn, batten down the hatches- that is an intense storm.
Yeah, I usually don't worry much, but I'm not happy about this one. The North Island is already reeling from massive flooding, with roads washed away and houses ruined.
Models are consistent on this scenario as well :o
UK has been slower and has it tracking farther N, but EC close to GFS.
Yep.
Shiiiiiiiet, wondering if I should can the trip now. Don't know if i fancy flying on the Monday if there's a fkn cyclone on the loose between me and my destination hahaha.
Small short period stuff on the GC. Low tide was okay yesterday but def needed some volume. Seems much less energy today
Looks like a standard points only affair so far. Almost be better if it comes closer. Long way to go anyway.
Picked the wrong windows yesterday, and struggled with the small weak stuff today. Can totally see how it would have been unreal somewhere, sometime (esp y'day)... but sadly the elements didn't align with my timetable.
Same here Ben. My son is down the Clarence coast and cleaned up both days though, little bugger.
In Fiji until Friday, wonder if I can get home if that thing eventuates.
Next weekend looks like it’s gonna be PUMPING, these swells keep arriving on the weekend, brizzo’s will be frothing
It's on all next weekend people!!!!
Party waves from sun up to sundown at any and every noosa point.
Bring ya mates, bring ya neighbours.... Bring ya grandma cause there's waves for days and friendly locals who live to share...it's a noosa tradition.
Nothing better than to dodge and bunny hop 8ft Mal's while sharing a wave with sups, goat boats and surf mats.
Legropes optional!!!!
Yewwwwwww!!!!
You son of a bitch, I'm in.
Booking my $700 per night accom in Hastings Street RN. Hope it includes a carpark.
Haha love it.
BOM says "Freddie" forming by Wednesday
JTWC will probably put out an alert during today.
Good convection and rotation captured by satellite..
http://satview.bom.gov.au/
Surprised JTWC hasn't already announced it as an area of interest.
Me too. Sleeping in? ;p
Chances of cyclone formation..
JTWC are on now.
99P
AN AREA OF CONVECTION (INVEST 99P) HAS PERSISTED NEAR 12.8S
158.1E, APPROXIMATELY 225 NM SOUTH-SOUTHWEST OF HONIARA, SOLOMON
ISLANDS. ANIMATED EIR AND A 052257Z AMSU-B 89GHZ MICROWAVE IMAGE
DEPICT A DISORGANIZED AREA OF TURNING WITH FLARING CONVECTION IN THE
SOUTHWESTERN QUADRANT. THE UPPER LEVEL ANALYSIS INDICATES INVEST 99W
IS A IN FAVORABLE ENVIRONMENT FOR DEVELOPMENT WITH LOW (5-15KT) VWS,
WARM (29-30C) SST, SLIGHTLY OFFSET BY WEAK WESTWARD UPPER-LEVEL
OUTFLOW. GLOBAL MODELS ARE IN AGREEMENT THAT INVEST 99W WILL TRACK
GENERALLY SOUTHWESTWARD AND GRADUALLY INTENSIFY THROUGH TAU 48 AFTER
WHICH THE SYSTEM TURNS SOUTH-SOUTHEASTWARD AND IS FORECAST TO CONTINUE
INTENSIFYING. MAXIMUM SUSTAINED SURFACE WINDS ARE ESTIMATED AT 17 TO
22 KNOTS. MINIMUM SEA LEVEL PRESSURE IS ESTIMATED TO BE NEAR 1003 MB.
THE POTENTIAL FOR THE DEVELOPMENT OF A SIGNIFICANT TROPICAL CYCLONE
WITHIN THE NEXT 24 HOURS IS LOW.
MetService layman's version:
Ha, much much better IB!
Eh? Where are your All-Caps?
This is NZ, mate. We wear all black and type in smallest possible print :-)
JTWC got a caps lock issue Craig?
Just the way they role.
I didn’t realise I was a Kiwi
Haha have considered moving there quite a bit