Chunky blend of swells favouring Points for the ANZAC long weekend
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Fri 22nd Apr)
Forecast Summary (tl;dr)
- SE winds set in at mod/fresh strength all long weekend, favouring Points.
- Solid mix of E'ly swells building over the long weekend
- Blend of short and longer period S swells over the weekend in the mix
- Pulses of longer period S swell on the menu next week, Mon/Tues and Thurs
- E'ly tradewind swell rebuilds later next week into the weekend, stay tuned for updates
Recap
Some fun waves around yesterday with generally clean 2-3ft surf but some real outliers with swell magnet beachies up in the 4ft range. Light winds tended variable through the day, even turning W’ly through the a’noon on the Far North Coast. S’ly winds have become more established through today, with surf bottoming out in the 2-3ft range, smaller 2ft or less in SEQLD.
This weekend (Apr 23 - 24)
Not much change to the long weekend f/cast. The chief factor will be wind and there’ll be plenty of it from the SE, as a dominant high moving across Tasmania builds a very firm ridge along the sub-tropical and tropical coasts of NSW and QLD.
We’re looking at a sustained period of SE winds over the long weekend which will confined clean conditions to protected Points. There’s only brief periods of lighter winds inshore early and only likely to be true offshore at a few select places in Far North NSW and the Southern Gold Coast.
Surf-wise we’ll see increasing size through Sat from a variety of sources. The ridge itself will see increasing SE winds proximate to the coast which will build an increasing short range SE/ESE swell through Sat, with size building from a small 2ft to the 3-4ft range during the day.
Better quality E swell from a stalled trough NE of the North Island will make landfall during the day with sets to 3ft filling in during the a’noon. Some longer period S swell in the mix is unlikely to really make an impact given the wind conditions prevailing over the weekend but is expected to add some energy into the mix. All told it adds up to some small fun surf on the Points and larger, unruly surf at more exposed spots.
Sunday repeats the dose. SE winds and a blend of swell trains. A mix of E and shorter range SE-E/SE swell will boost surf a notch into the 4ft range but again, you’ll have to do battle on the Points or make do with ragged conditions at more exposed breaks. Longer period S swell will again add some energy into the mix.
Next week (Apr 25 onwards)
No great change to the ANZAC Day outlook. SE winds will remain with a slight easing of the pressure gradient offset by a slightly more E’ly tilt to winds in areas south of Yamba. Plenty of E swell from the North Island source as well with inconsistent 3ft surf and some bigger sets on offer. Short range ESE swell keeps chugging away in the 3-4ft range. We’re still on track for a nice pulse of long period S swell to start the week. Models have slightly downgraded the storm, with the fetch now a bit more mobile and zonally oriented (W-E). Nonetheless we’ll see good quality long lines from the S in the water Mon morning, with sets in the 3ft range across S exposed breaks in NENSW, smaller in SEQLD. Monday is more of the same mixed bag with best waves on the Points due to SE winds.
The trend will be start to head downwards into Tuesday with a smaller blend of leftover S swell in the 2-3ft range at S facing beaches and a blend of mid period E swell in the 3-4ft range with a slight and slow easing expected during the a’noon.
A final S swell pulse from the strong series of front passing through the lower Tasman is expected Wed. This will see S facing beaches push back into the 3ft range through Wed - if the swell arrives as expecte
Wed morning is a safer bet for cleaner conditions as the high pressure ridge finally slackens off with long period S swell trains making landfall in the 3ft range. With swell periods up in the 15-17 second period band this will be another very directional pulse where certain S swell magnets will punch well above their weight, with some 4ft or even bigger sets on offer.
Easing swells and light winds pad out the rest of next week. Looks like a couple of small days through Thurs and Fri with surf around 1-2ft with a small increase in new tradewind swell Fri, unlikely to exceed 2ft.
Longer term and a long tradewind fetch is expected to draw out into the South Pacific through next week. It’s well aimed at sub-tropical targets and we’ll expect to see some small but building E swell on offer through next weekend. A front is also on the radar for next weekend with S swell potential.
We’ll run the ruler over those prospects on Mon.
In the meantime, have a great long weekend!
Comments
Shit Steve on it early today. Cheers
Fck me, this shit wind is shit!!!
Neverending stoooryyy...
fun dawn session with rainbows and rain squalls , but some big fish were being chased by bigger fish so it ended early .
Easterlies been howling all weekend so far at my joint, though they're kinda accentuated here compared to other directions.
Was briefly offshore here for a time around dawn but nowhere near enough to clean up the sea state.
Scrappy options on tap for a few keen beans not willing to do laps in the crowd.
Definitely more E'ly energy in the mix today.
Another tool.
For wind on the SC obviously most sites use Tewantin/Mdore APs (e.g WillyWeather) which can be somewhat inaccurate compared to the actual beach side conditions. For example, Willy might show 5kn W for Coolum (let's go!) which is reading from the airport where really it's 15kn SE at the beach (ah balls). I've found these far more useful/accurate being right on the beach for several locations (even guard towers).
https://holfuy.com/en/map/wind&la=-33.00000&lo=144.00000&z=3.0
For example right now Sunrise Beach.
11kn SE (17kn gusts) Willy (airport)
https://wind.willyweather.com.au/qld/sunshine-coast/sunrise-beach.html
22kn ESE (28kn gusts) Holfuy (Tingira Crescent)
https://holfuy.com/en/weather/569
Look like pretty cost effective little setups too, might throw one up my antenna haha.
They are great links! Thanks for that sprout
Cheers Sprout. Surf there quite a lot.
5 knots or more makes a huge difference in whether onshore conditions are surfable. I’ve always checked the airport readings on the BOM
Yeah 11kn SE I might go look for a junkish wave... 22kn ESE count me out!
Hard to get accurate wind readings airport AWS.
Ballina Airport is not even 5k's inland and the winds are often completely different direction and velocity on the coast.
Cheers for that Sprout...pretty relentless ESE wind up there eh?
Exactly, 5k's can make a huge difference compared to the ocean's edge.
Bit of a gap in useful stations for surf purposes until Newy, so far anyway.
I wonder what the SLS guard tower ones are used for in particular.
Haha yeah it's still summer conditions really, patchy rain, messy ocean etc. just a cooler temp.
I'm taking respite in the Perth cams; dead flat, clean blue offshore water lapping at the shore.
I can barely remember what that looks like, dreamy!
SC airport is a bit closer than that and pretty accurate for that area I think but a lot of coast lies a long way north and south of there.
I reckon SN did a great article on this exact issue re. winds inland from the coast.
Down here the only wind reading is the airport, presumably like most places so am slowly learning to add or subtract measurements through experience and real time obs. Definitely not an exact science!!
And FWiW for all intersted in tomorrow's margs winds. Its been blowing NE all morning here and now just sitting on E. Wind fairly warm. From what ive learnt here if the wind doesn't flick back to a SE onshore after all day E/Ne its definitely on its way around. If its overcast tomorrow early and light winds it'll possibly be a slow transition from NE to NW. Could fluctuate NE/NNW most of day. If winds up early and strong NNE that fronts approaching quickly and will b WNW not too far off.
Sorry! Fence jumping!! Love me a bit of weather chit chat. :-P
Love it blue, that local knowledge experience provides is worth it's weight in waves.
Thanks Sprout!! Been loving reading your insights and checking the links. And just as a fence jumper disclaimer,..i lived under the flight path of ballina airport not twice but thrice!! So feel somewhat engaged in the above convo. Anyway, carry on folks. Great stuff.
Do you think airport wind anomaly’s are in part due to local topagraphy surrounding the entry to the airport and the channeling effect of the runway?
Not for onshore winds, airports right there. On seeds comment about a lot of coastline north & south, it would be accurate most of the way to sunshine & south to Alex easy. All I know is anything with east in the breeze tends to suck . That’s my two bits, enjoy Anzac Day boys & girls
Here we go guys.. https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet-analysis/2020/06/30/fraction-too-...
Beauty, I don't remember this one, great read thanks Craig.
if you ever want to paddle out at snapper without getting your hair wet, just arrive at the keyhole 1 minute before i do. i swear every time im walking back up the point theres a huge lull, and no matter how fast or slow i walk, when i get to the keyhole multiple 35 wave sets arrive and i spend the next 15 minutes waiting for a lull again, all the while wishing i'd got there 1 minute earlier and i could be out there catching one. i must be so out of rhythm with that place even tho ive surfed it for decades. having said that, got one of the barrels of my life on a 3ft double up today.
Any sand movement gurus in the house? Just inquisitive in regards to the giant gutter / hole in the sandbank that’s at The Pass.. obviously it’s gone slightly to the crappa after such a long run. There also seems a ridiculous amount of sand build up on the beach now too.
My questions are when did it disappear, why did it disappear & how did it disappear?
As a sand eco system how, why, what & when would cause the sand to migrate back to where it belongs? (From a surfers perspective at least) without cracking out the bulldozers which would be disgusting and who knows what other adverse effects that may have..
It seems mother nature always rules the roost and has the last say.
In most cases we are all just innocent bystanders :)
That’s excluding Dubai they love bulldozers.
Ruckas these may explain a bit about it
https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet-analysis/2020/06/05/bypassing-the...
https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet-dispatch/2019/07/15/clarkes-beach...
Thanks Udo, you da man with the magic links. How’s that’s photo of Clark’s with the dry reef. Woowzers
And for everyone outside of the region it’s barely worth travelling there at the moment. It could be 6 months, a year, 2 years, even a decade before it returns