Moderate strength S swell ahead with some windows of workable winds

Steve Shearer picture
Steve Shearer (freeride76)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Mon Nov15)

SEQLD Forecast Summary (tl;dr)

  • Small S swell late Tues, holding Wed with light morning winds, tending ESE through the day
  • Leftover S swell Thurs AM
  • Mostly small E'ly swell this weekend, with N'ly winds

Northern NSW Forecast Summary (tl;dr)

  • Small S swell Tues AM, bumping up a notch in the PM
  • Stronger S swell Wed/peaking in the PM and Thurs AM before easing, best winds AM
  • Mostly small E'ly swell this weekend, with N'ly winds, small S swell Sun

Recap

Not a great deal of surf over the weekend. In fact Sun and today have been close to pancake flat in SEQLD. Sat saw a small amount of leftover NE windswell, just rideable for the keen, with W’ly winds. S swell has provided NENSW with a few 2-3ft sets at S facing magnets from yesterday a’noon into today, with mostly W’ly winds which have tended more N’ly during the mid-day hours as Seabreeze effects tweak the dominant W’ly flow. 

This week (Nov 15-19)

A deep mid-latitude low with high pressure support in the Bight and multiple cold fronts has now moved E of Tasmania with W to SW gales pushing out of Bass Strait and a deeper SSW fetch pushing up from the Southern Ocean into the Tasman Sea. It’s a wintry looking system and it has a nice sting in the tail as a small troughy intensification slingshots up into the Tasman Sea through tomorrow, giving another longer period pulse S swell to add onto the main body of the swell.

Surf from this system shows tomorrow, primarily the Bass Strait refracted S swell, which will have fill in early morning in NENSW, reaching the Far North Coast mid-late morning. That will supply surf a bit undersized but in the 2-3ft range through the morning at S facing beaches, smaller 1-2ft in SEQLD at S facing magnets. Cleanish under early light W/SW winds. Size builds into the late a’noon, up into the 3ft+ range at S facing beaches, 2ft in SEQLD. Winds will be a problem as they tend S/SE then E to E/NE as a high pressure ridge builds in quickly behind the passage of the front.

The high pressure ridge quickly establishes through Wed, bringing a regime of light/mod SE/ESE winds. It’s a lighter flow than models suggested on Fri, and the possibility of short range SE swell generated from it has also been downgraded. 

S swell will be the dominant swell train in the water Wed. With the lightest winds early that will be the time to chase the max size available at S facing beaches which should be in the 3-4ft range in NENSW, smaller 2-3ft at S swell magnets and Northern Corners in SEQLD. By the time the wind kicks in you’ll need to shave off size or deal with onshore winds to get a surf in.

The initial body of S swell will be supplanted on Thurs AM by longer period S swell from the troughy slingshot Mon. Those swell trains will overlap, with the stronger swell expected in the morning. Size in the 3-5ft range, smaller 3ft in SEQLD is expected through the morning, so if you can work around the not quite ideal  winds there should be a few options available, especially if you can sacrifice a bit of quality for size. Expect size and consistency to roll off through Thurs a’noon.

Fri sees the leftovers of the S swell with early size in the 3ft range at S facing beaches in NENSW, smaller 2ft in SEQLD easing back during the day. The N’ly pattern kicks in during Fri, with lightest winds early, possibly NW before they tend NE and freshen. With best conditions and most size in the morning it makes the early a no-brainer.

This weekend (Nov 20-21)

Tricky little weekend ahead with no major swell sources but enough flukey swell trains to get wet if you can get out of the expected N’ly winds. These winds are expected both days, possibly lighter and more NW inshore early, so be prepared to hunt down backbeaches or deal with side shore/onshore winds.

We’re not looking at any major swell trains Sat, just some small background E swell from the weak trade flow in the Coral Sea, extending out into the South Pacific. That won’t exceed surf in the 2ft range so get the grovel boards ready.

Sunday looks much the same- small background E’ly swell in the 2ft range, with a few fun peaks at backbeaches about the best of it. Some small longer period S swell makes landfall in NENSW through the a’noon, generated by a passing front on Fri/Sat. Keep expectations pegged very low for this source. It’s only worth a few 2ft sets at NENSW S swell magnets.

All in all, it’s a weekend better for things other than surfing, but you will get wet if you are keen.

Next week (Nov22) and beyond

The interior low exits the coast Mon next week, driving W’ly winds across the region. Surf potential from this low as it enters the Tasman looks constrained from this far out. Without a supporting high pressure ridge the low dips south with winds aimed at Tasmania, then meanders across the Tasman, with quite a weak fetch through Bass Strait, then along the western flank of the low.

Thus we’re only looking at a modest S swell potential from the low, probably bumping a notch during Tues/Wed next week, into the 2ft range at exposed S facing beaches. Mon is likely tiny/flat.

Another interior cut-off low is expected to approach the coast Wed, suggesting an increased NE infeed into the low and potential for NE windswell by during Wed next week.

A weak trade flow in the South Pacific holds a low level background E swell into next weekend, likely below 2ft.

This unstable pattern is likely to have low model predictability so expect major revisions as we enter next week. Get what you can from this round of S swell because the following period looks small and flukey.

Check back Wed for a full update.

Comments

NickT's picture
NickT's picture
NickT Monday, 15 Nov 2021 at 4:45pm

It's funny how used you get to surfing at least once a week. I forgot how bad this period leading up to Christmas can get. Trying my absolute best to keep fit with regular running but it's boring as bat shit, come the F on Huey! Send us a prolonged 9-sec easterly trade swell

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 15 Nov 2021 at 4:48pm

Been so many long range model forecasts showing a solid tradewind band, before dissipating.
Hopefully one comes to fruition soon.

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Monday, 15 Nov 2021 at 7:29pm

So small, but how beautiful was yesterday on the north coast? Can' t remember seeing water clarity and crisp westerly, pin-sharp skies like that for a long time. Found some 1-2 a frames for a paddle too, can't complain too much when we live where everyone else would rather be.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 15 Nov 2021 at 8:28pm

yeah, was stunning.
a-grade snorkelling on Sun morning.

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Monday, 15 Nov 2021 at 8:43pm

Yeh we went up around the headland of sharpes, was epic. Saw a yellow wobbegong and a bunch of big fish around.
That said, I haven't had a good surf in over 6 weeks i think :(

calk's picture
calk's picture
calk Monday, 15 Nov 2021 at 9:20pm

Higher chance of a car crash on the way to the beach etc. etc.

But... The Sharpes and Lennox receivers are pinging all the time. I'm interested to know, do you get a 'feeling' at all when you're out there? Does it enter your mind? Or is it something you completely wipe from your consciousness intentionally?

Distracted's picture
Distracted's picture
Distracted Monday, 15 Nov 2021 at 9:36pm

Water clarity and westerlies… did we miss summer?! The mullet are going to start running if this keeps up.

tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir Tuesday, 16 Nov 2021 at 7:48pm

Still 0.5-1ft on dark at my local (a northern sc swell magnet). Enough for a bodysurf though. Near-full moon amongst a pink sky, glistening on the water. Beauuuuutiful.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Tuesday, 16 Nov 2021 at 11:01pm

Flat offshore Spring is possibly worse than million knot Nly Spring*, at least then there's absolutely no hope of a wave and not this endless 'just another foot' bullshit.

*I reserve the right to whinge about million knot Nly upon their return.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 17 Nov 2021 at 5:39am

Tuesday evening had some lovely glassy 2-3ft sets across the Tweed Coast, zero wind, deep outer bank but fun shories.

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Wednesday, 17 Nov 2021 at 6:39pm

Agreed Ben. Dbah looked kind of fun late arvo. I piked on ducking home to grab a board for a paddle, wish I had now reading tonight's forecast...

Rockethut's picture
Rockethut's picture
Rockethut Wednesday, 17 Nov 2021 at 6:33am

And this morning is flat and choppy. Jeez

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 17 Nov 2021 at 8:24am

Flat? Still about the same size on the Tweed as last night though certainly looking worse for wear under the easterly breeze.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Wednesday, 17 Nov 2021 at 8:28am

Nothing past Moreton so far FR.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 17 Nov 2021 at 9:30am

yep.
Damn.
Came up pretty quick here yesterday into the 3ft+ range, still that this morning.
Slightly better angle on the back end of the swell, so should show late this arvo and tomorrow.

Winds not great with the high pressure ridge.