Small east swells holding steady; long term looks dynamic

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 4th September)

Best Days: Sun: fun peaky E'ly swell in SE Qld and Far Northern NSW with early light winds. Mon/Tues/Wed: fun small E'ly swell with generally light winds. Thurs/Fri: strong S'ly tending S/SE swell with good winds for the points. 

Recap: Small swells and northerly winds haven’t offered much for surfers over the last few days. The only swell of note (from a surfing perspective) is a small E’ly swell from a broadening ridge through the Coral Sea, which has supplied peaky 2ft sets across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW beaches. Early light NW winds favoured a few open beaches this morning.

Small peaks at Burleigh this morning

Small northerly peaks on the Tweed Coast

Baby glassy waves at Caloundra

This weekend (Sep 7 - 8)

A trough will move up the coast over the weekend, creating tricky winds at some point for most coasts, but also a few small windows of opportunity. 

Freshening northerly winds ahead of the trough will affect SE Qld and Far Northern NSW for most of Saturday - maybe an early light period on the Sunny Coast if we’re lucky. However, locations south from Ballina should see early NW winds and south from about Coffs it’ll trend light and variable into the afternoon as the trough reaches this region. 

The variable pattern will then extend north overnight, influencing locations north of Ballina, however everywhere south from about Yamba will see freshening E/SE winds from the southern flank of the trough. There is a suggestion that a small low may develop along the trough line on Sunday, somewhere in the vicinity of the Northern Rivers, and if this occurs some regions could see localised strong to gale force winds. But, confidence is only low as to when and where this might occur.

As for surf, we’ll see small waves in NSW from peripheral sources all weekend - local N’ly windswell and a faint signal of S’ly groundswell (which spiked to 15 seconds in Southern NSW today). Sets probably won’t amount to much more than 1-2ft.

SE Qld will however pick up a small building E/NE swell from the Coral Sea ridge, around 2ft on Saturday and 2-3ft Sunday. It won’t be terribly strong though, and Saturday’s winds will create a few issues away from sheltered northern corners, but Sunday should provide OK peaks at the open beaches. 

Just bear in mind that there’s a chance that the models could strengthen the aforementioned coastal low (along the trough line). If this occurs then Sunday afternoon could see a spike in local windswell. The only opportunity this could present for surfers would be for locations north of the trough line, which won’t see the same local wind strength but may pick up a spread of swell. If any more info comes to hand on Saturday I’ll update in the comments below. 

Next week (Sep 9 onwards)

First off - there’s an impressive low out NE from New Zealand right now that looks great in single synoptic snapshots, but it’s tracking too fast to the east to benefit our swell potential. That being said, it has slowed slightly in the latest model runs so we should see a brief pulse of E’ly swell early next week (around Tues) but I’m not holding my breath for any major size. 

Otherwise, SE Qld will see steady short range E’ly swells through most of next week, from an anchored ridge extending from below Fiji through into the Coral Sea. Set waves will fluctuate all week in the 2-3ft range, maybe a few bigger sets across the Sunny Coast’s open beaches. But, surf size will be smaller as you head south from Ballina. 

Local conditions look OK for the first half of next week with a weak pressure gradient resulting in light morning winds and moderate sea breezes each day. The only caveat here is what may linger across the Northern Rivers on Monday morning, from Sunday's potential developing-low-on-the-trough-line. 

A more vigorous southerly change will push up the Southern NSW coast early Wednesday, reaching the Mid North Coast late afternoon, and SE Qld early Thursday. 

The change itself doesn’t look anything amazing but the parent low to the south looks to be angled quite nicely, and should generate a decent S'ly tending S/SE groundswell, building Thursday and holding Friday. At this stage, the associated front is expected to push close to the coast and a ridge pushing in from behind will maintain a couple of days of gusty S’ly winds, but early indications are that with Northern NSW’s south facing beaches likely to push the 5-6ft+ range, there’ll be enough size for protected spots. 

SE Qld outer points should do quite well these days, with size currently pegged around the 3ft+ mark. 

The long term surf outlook is quite promising, with lingering troughiness in the Tasman Sea anticipated (at my end, at least) to spin up multiple quality swell sources in our eastern swell window. Persistent low pressure near Fiji also looks like being a source for new E’ly swell too. There’s nothing concrete right now but I’m quietly confident we’ll see a resumption to an active swell pattern, with favourable winds for the points.

Have a good weekend, see you Monday!

Comments

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Friday, 4 Sep 2020 at 6:10pm

So basically one more week of shite before an uptick finally!

Zwolffy's picture
Zwolffy's picture
Zwolffy Friday, 4 Sep 2020 at 6:16pm

I know surf is usually lacklustre north of sunny coast ie Bundy and Agnes Water. But there is good surf at times but we never get a mention there is a cam at Agnes and a big interested surf community up here that would love some mention of swell conditions for our region in the forecasts notes. Is this possible in the future?

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Saturday, 5 Sep 2020 at 7:23pm

I do occasionally see agnes mentioned. Think it takes a very solid swell (and/or NE/ direction) for you guys to get anything ?
So i don't think they're gonna bother mentioning anything unless its big enough to hit agnes, which when it is i have seen mention of

ringmaster's picture
ringmaster's picture
ringmaster Saturday, 5 Sep 2020 at 8:59pm

Honestly mate

You're better off the way things are now! A few years down the track and you'll realise that.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 6 Sep 2020 at 7:52am

We used to do Forecaster Notes for Agnes Water for many years, but the audience is tiny so we discontinued it (surf conditions here are unrelated to any other region, so it's not possible to add into the existing SE Qld notes). We may resume in the future though.

Fliplid's picture
Fliplid's picture
Fliplid Sunday, 6 Sep 2020 at 9:09am

Zwolffy, realistically there are only 3 small beaches in Bundy that are rarely surfable, there is a growing horde of SUPS, and mal riders who are mostly at the learning stage with no idea and you want everyone in town to know when there are waves?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 6 Sep 2020 at 7:49am

Fun peaky waves across the Gold and Sunny Coasts this morning.

DudeSweetDudeSweet's picture
DudeSweetDudeSweet's picture
DudeSweetDudeSweet Sunday, 6 Sep 2020 at 8:09am

7 people lining up to drop in on that first shot.

Record ?

ringmaster's picture
ringmaster's picture
ringmaster Sunday, 6 Sep 2020 at 9:28am

For that joint?

Not even close I woulda thought

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 6 Sep 2020 at 10:06am

total onshore gurgle here this morning.

Funny, last Saturday with roping 4-6ft barrels surf gets a 5/10.
This morning with unrideable tiny onshore gurgle it gets a 4/10.

Weird. old world.

scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Sunday, 6 Sep 2020 at 10:22am

ben, can you please let us know if the forecast needs to be revised for se qld for monday morning. when these notes came out, it looked like light winds monday early. has this now changed?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 6 Sep 2020 at 6:27pm

Yep, it's changed a little (though, there was always a risk - albeit initially pegged only for the Northern Rivers: "The only caveat here is what may linger across the Northern Rivers on Monday morning, from Sunday's potential developing-low-on-the-trough-line.")

General S/SE flow all day, lighter S/SW early morning along the southern Gold Coast. The Sunshine Coast will probably be moderate (or more) S/SE from end to end.

Rockethut's picture
Rockethut's picture
Rockethut Sunday, 6 Sep 2020 at 12:35pm

There was supposed to be a chance for light winds on the Goldy today but it's was blown out on the open northern beaches by 6am.

scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Sunday, 6 Sep 2020 at 12:38pm

yeah i saw that, and went back to bed. we were supposed to have similar winds the next few days but i'm not sure now

alexsmith1's picture
alexsmith1's picture
alexsmith1 Sunday, 6 Sep 2020 at 5:17pm

Palmy was clean, seaway was a different story

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 6 Sep 2020 at 6:25pm

6am? According to the AWS, winds were under 10kts at the Seaway until 8am, and it really didn't start to strengthen properly through until 9:30am. Were you in the water before 8am?

scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Sunday, 6 Sep 2020 at 6:40pm

i wasnt in the water, but although the winds werent strong at 6am, it was still sse enough to make it wind affected from about 630am onwards.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 6 Sep 2020 at 6:49pm

8kts gusting 9kts? Technically, that's classified as "Light winds", under the Beaufort Scale. Sometimes, local effects may tweak wind speeds (if the weather station is inland, or elevated), but the Seaway AWS is right on the coast so it's an excellent indicator of surf-zone speed/direction across the northern end of the Goldy.

For reference, average wind speeds of 10kts or less is "Light", 11-16 knots is "Moderate", 17-21 knots is "Fresh" etc. 

http://www.bom.gov.au/marine/knowledge-centre/reference/wind.shtml

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 6 Sep 2020 at 6:23pm

Been an interesting troughy pattern across the region today.

Winds were light across many regions early morning, but kicked from the south at Byron around 7:30am and the Gold Coast Seaway around 8am (the trough penetrated further northn than Friday's models suggested).

Gusts reached 37kts at Byron (8:24am), 30kts Evans Head, 28kts at Yamba, 34kts Cape Moreton, 28kts Gold Coast Seaway and 28kts Sunshine Coast Airport. 

South from Yamba, winds remained generally under 10kts all day.

This pattern will linger overnight and then gradually weaken through Monday, but the overal flow will remain S/SE. We'll see pockets of early light S/SW winds but this will be confined to a handful of locations locations like the southern Gold Coast.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Sunday, 6 Sep 2020 at 6:45pm

Wider than they were tall this morning, little kegs everywhere if you could make the drop and squeeze into them.

scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Sunday, 6 Sep 2020 at 6:58pm

se qld or nnsw?

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Sunday, 6 Sep 2020 at 7:08pm

North SC early near low.

Rockethut's picture
Rockethut's picture
Rockethut Sunday, 6 Sep 2020 at 7:49pm

Looking ahead, small waves all week and with a constant south quadrant wind, the beaches will be shit and the points will be too small.