Tricky winds ahead, but there's a few windows of opportunity

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 12th June)

Best Days: Sat: fun waves across all coasts with generally light winds and easing E'ly swells. Sun: afternoon options in Northern NSW as winds swing NW then W'ly. Mon/Tues/Wed: small fun E'ly swells with good winds for the points. Thurs/Fri/Sat: strong building SE swells, though with gusty SE winds. 

Recap: A mix of E’ly mid range and long range swells have generated excellent waves across the regional points over the last few days, with size in the 3-5ft range. There’s also been a small southerly swell in the mix south of the border. Winds have been out of the SW thru’ S, so open beaches have been a little wobbly at times but there’s been some quality options around. 

Currumbin with the goods this afternoon

This weekend (June 13 - 14)

Saturday is the pick of the weekend, with freshening northerly winds likely to create a few issues on Sunday.

We’re now on the backside of this most recent E’ly swell, and the downwards trend will continue into Saturday from 3ft+ to 2-3ft at most open beaches, smaller along the points. Size should persist at an inconsistent 2-3ft at open beaches on Sunday.

A new S’ly swell is also expected to glance the Northern NSW coast on Saturday - probably the afternoon - and then fade slowly through Sunday. This was generated by the final trailing polar low in a sequence (which also generated our recent south swell yesterday and today) and provided good surf through Victoria today. No major size is expected, but south swell magnets south of Byron could pick up a few 2-3ft sets.

Saturday will be clean pretty much everywhere with light variable winds and sea breezes.

Overnight Saturday, winds will freshen from the north in response to an approaching frontal system, and it could become gusty at exposed coasts through Sunday morning. The front will cross Southern NSW throughout the morning and this should allow for a NW wind change across Northern NSW into the afternoon, tending W’ly later (arriving earlier in the south than the north). 

However, north from Byron the N’ly wind could remain an issue all day. In fact, this local wind should be sufficient to generate 2ft+ of peaky N’ly swell, though there may not be any locations handling the wind that are also picking up this energy.

Next week (June 15 onwards)

A S’ly change will push up all coasts early Monday in the lee of Sunday’s change. It won’t be terribly strong but it’ll be enough to create quality issues at exposed spots, though the points will be clean. 

A small undercurrent of E’ly swell will hold into the morning but a restrengthening of the Northern Tasman Sea ridge over the weekend - this time a little further east, south of Fiji - will generate a rebuilding trend that will start to fill in on Monday afternoon and then hold steady through Tuesday and Wednesday. 

Monday morning will therefore be undersized, but we should be back to 2-3ft+ surf through the first half of the week. There’ll be slow runners along the outer points. Wave heights may be a little undersized from this source south from Yamba.

A new ridge will concurrently build across the Qld coast from Monday night onwards, initially too localised to generate swell, but as it broadens through the middle of the week and merges with a passing front to the south (extending the fetch down to New Zealand, and possibly forming a surface low off the North Island) we’ll see strong building SE swells across the region.

This new eneregy will probably start to become most noticeable around Thursday of next week but the most size is expected from Friday through the weekend. Though, the strength of the ridge along the coast will probably result in sheltered-points only offering the rideable options. 

There’s a few other swell sources for later next week, such as a new S’ly swell from the final low in a Southern Ocean progression (below Tasmania on Tuesday) and some small long range E’ly swell from distant systems in the South Pacific, but they’re likely to be overshadowed by local swell sources anyway. So I won’t spend much time analysing them (for now).

Have a great weekend! See you Monday. 

Comments

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 12 Jun 2020 at 6:16pm

Sorry is it winter or summer?

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Friday, 12 Jun 2020 at 6:38pm

May gave way to shittay.

burleigh's picture
burleigh's picture
burleigh Saturday, 13 Jun 2020 at 9:07am

I much prefer these swells than the long period stuff. More waves for everyone.

bluediamond's picture
bluediamond's picture
bluediamond Saturday, 13 Jun 2020 at 10:11am

The Pass cam this morning. How do more people not die out there. Mayhem!!

brevil's picture
brevil's picture
brevil Saturday, 13 Jun 2020 at 11:02am

It was pretty hectic alright.

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Sunday, 14 Jun 2020 at 1:39pm

Was insane last Thursday too, so many kooks paddling up inside everyone. How do these dicks learn to hassle before they learn to surf?

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Saturday, 13 Jun 2020 at 1:55pm

Yesterday and today were flat out fantastic.

Got the best barrel I’ve had in a couple of years this morning at a beach break . Proper mind bender. Handful of people on a peak . Maximum of 6 mellow crew sharing the lefts and rights.

Just happens to be the missus birthday , so came home and straight into fresh fat tiger prawns on soft buttered rolls , a bit of cake and now lolling about with a beer . Completely surfed into a standstill.

Sky is blue . Water is warmish , fuck all wind.

9.5 / 10

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Saturday, 13 Jun 2020 at 2:02pm

Magic.

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Sunday, 14 Jun 2020 at 1:53pm

Agree mate. Friday was a day I will be replaying in my mind for a long time! Epic, perfect conditions and surprisingly not too crowded after the dawn session crew got out. Saturday morning was insane too until Brisbane arrived about 1030, closely followed by the NE'r lol

freesurfer1977's picture
freesurfer1977's picture
freesurfer1977 Saturday, 13 Jun 2020 at 7:52pm

SC coast here, rain tomorrow, sunday. A little low forming off the coast, going as quick as it formed? Welcomed rain anyhow!!
Nice one blowin, live for days like that!!

yorkessurfer's picture
yorkessurfer's picture
yorkessurfer Sunday, 14 Jun 2020 at 1:06pm

I’ve been staying and surfing down at Coolangatta for the past week in a holiday apartment that I jumped on for a bargain now that the resorts are starting to open back up.

I got a few pics with my iPhone and used binoculars as a zoom from my 12th floor balcony. Surprised how good they turned out!




freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 14 Jun 2020 at 1:45pm

sweet.

scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Sunday, 14 Jun 2020 at 5:19pm

hey ben / craig / freeride / anyone clued up with weather forecasting - any idea what time we should expect the southerly to hit the goldy tomorrow? many thanks in advance ...

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 14 Jun 2020 at 5:23pm

Don't take this as gospel but it's a weird troughy sort of change and I'd have a sly bet on it staying W through SW for a good while through the morning.

scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Sunday, 14 Jun 2020 at 5:25pm

ok thanks FR, i hope you are right.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 15 Jun 2020 at 12:28pm

get a piece of anything Scrotina?

scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Monday, 15 Jun 2020 at 2:47pm

ended up sleeping in, but you were right about the wind. i'm keen to know if TOS was good

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Monday, 15 Jun 2020 at 2:33pm

Fun enough waves. Lost it’s oomph though. Endless empty beachie peaks in the chest high range. Just a matter of picking one without fish busting up and gannets dive bombing .....unless you are into that kind of thing when surfing solo .

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 15 Jun 2020 at 2:40pm

Last week and the weekend were sublime. x2 all the comments above. That rain was a bonus as well. So lush and green following it!

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Monday, 15 Jun 2020 at 2:42pm

You up the coast , Craig ?

How far did you get ?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 15 Jun 2020 at 2:45pm

Back now, was up since Thursday week, around to your neck. Such an insanely beautiful zone and even better when the sand is doing its thang.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Monday, 15 Jun 2020 at 2:48pm

Some crazy banks around.

A couple of sneaky set ups in bizarre places which I’d never imagine were possible. If I’d been told about them I’d have probably not believed a word of it. Sand does strange things.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 15 Jun 2020 at 2:42pm

done with the rain now.

quagmire at my place.

the ducks have got into every piece of waterlogged ground and turned it into something like the front line trenches at the battle of the Somme.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Monday, 15 Jun 2020 at 2:52pm

I had a hole in my internal roof gutter and a ceiling now needing repair.

Standing on a skillion roof in the rain riveting up a patch out of flashing and then sikaflexing it as water flows over it...yewwww.

Who ever invented internal guttering needs an upper cut.

R00ney's picture
R00ney's picture
R00ney Monday, 15 Jun 2020 at 4:54pm

"...Who ever invented internal guttering needs an upper cut."

I'm hearin' ya.
Far kwits!

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Monday, 15 Jun 2020 at 2:52pm

Anyone getting any fish ?

Looks like a nice day on the water tomorrow.

tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir Monday, 15 Jun 2020 at 3:57pm

Disorganised, shoulder-high and hollow on the Sunny this am. Plenty of fun waves to be had. Quite a few fish around making the occasional splash - disconcerting given I was riding solo.