Plenty from the east, then plenty from the south
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 29th April)
Best Days: Thurs: chance for a late window of offshores on the Mid North Coast, with a peaky E'ly and NE swell combo. Brief window of early light winds in the north. Fri/Sat: inconsistent but fun E'ly swell with good winds. Swell holding through Sun but winds veering gusty S'ly. Large S'ly swell building late Sun, peaking Mon, easing slowly from Tues, though windy.
Recap: Small E’ly swells managed 1-2ft waves on Tuesday, before building to 2-3ft today, with clean conditions thanks to generally light winds. Winds have come up from the north across the Mid North Coast this afternoon though.
This week (Apr 30 - May 1)
It’s a real shame we’ve got freshening northerly winds for Thursday, as the current E’ly swell is expected to hold steady.
The only expected change in characteristics over the coming days is a decrease in consistency, thanks to the swell source - a broad ridge through the Coral Sea and Northern Tasman - slowly moving to the east. Most open beaches should manage 2-3ft sets, perhaps the odd bigger one at the swell magnets,
Locations north from Coffs may be lucky and see an early light to moderate N/NW breeze, but everywhere is expected to become blown out by mid-late morning and the afternoon could see 20-25kt winds at exposed locations. These winds will generate a peaky local swell (2ft SE Qld, 3ft+ Northern NSW).
There’s still a chance that the Lower Mid North Coast may pick up the leading edge of a W’ly wind change in the few hours before dusk. Model guidance doesn’t quite have it in until dinner time but sometimes these things run ahead of schedule. But, I wouldn’t expect anything earlier than mid-afternoon, and even then you’ll have to be as far south as possible. It’s unlikely anywhere north from Port or maybe Coffs will pick up this wind change until overnight.
Friday will then see rapidly easing NE windswell and steady E’ly swell (as per Thursday) with light offshore winds in the north, moderate to fresh south from Yamba. Expect long breaks between sets but fun beachies.
This weekend (May 2 - 3)
The E’ly swell looks like it’ll muscle up a little in period over the weekend, thanks to a strengthening of the trade flow south of Fiji over the coming days.
The slightly longer travel distance will probably cancel out any local size gains, so for now I’m expecting inconsistent 2-3ft+ surf at exposed beaches on Saturday, and then again on Sunday. Would even be surprised if there’s the odd bigger bomb in the mix on Sunday.
As for our south swell window, the models have stalled the current west-east progression of an amplifying Long Wave Trough, since Monday's notes were written. This hasn’t diminished its swell potential, but it has delayed the cycle around 24 hours, so we are now expecting Saturday to see very little southerly swell, and even Sunday morning will be small across many locations.
There will be two primary fetches associated with this pattern (see below) - gale force W/SW winds exiting eastern Bass Strait early Saturday (generating the first swell) and then gale force S/SW winds associated with the parent low. This low will round the Tasmanian corner and enter NSW’s south swell window overnight Saturday, generating large swells for late Sunday and Monday.
I’m still not particularly confident on the timing for the southerly swells on Sunday - the Mid North Coast should see an upwards trend by mid-morning, but the Far North may not pick up an appreciable size increase until mid-afternoon. And the bigger stuff could be delayed until overnight.
I’ll firm up the arrival times on Friday with the availability of better data. But, late afternoon has the potential for 6ft+ sets on the Mid North Coast, just keep your size expectations lower as you head north from here. I doubt SE Qld will pick up much new S’ly swell until after dark on Sunday.
As for conditions, Saturday is looking pristine with moderate to fresh westerly winds. They’ll hold into Sunday morning but a southerly change will push up the Northern NSW coast during the day and reach SE Qld by the afternoon. This will confine the best waves to sheltered points in the afternoon.
Next week (May 4 onwards)
A peak in S’ly swell is expected on Monday morning, accompanied by gusty S’ly winds. South facing beaches (south of Byron) could see 6ft+ sets or more but it’ll be smaller elsewhere. It’s shaping up to be a good day for the outer SE Qld points with 3-4ft sets on the Gold Coast, a little smaller on the Sunshine Coast (though tiny inner points).
A trailing polar low will maintain smaller though good quality southerly swells through Tuesday as Monday’s event eases back rapidly in size. South facing beaches should manage 4-5ft+ sets south of Byron but it’ll be smaller elsewhere with 3ft surf in SE Qld.
The long term outlook has intense polar low activity in our south swell window maintaining small southerly groundswells later next week and into the weekend across Northern NSW.
Otherwise, a developing ridge through the Coral Sea all week will slowly building E’ly swells for SE Qld, with an extended run of fun waves for the outer points here and across Northern NSW.
See you Friday!
Comments
Thanks for the report Ben.
I’ve been reading with keen I interest your descriptions of our recent south swells. Can I ask a couple questions to aid my learning?
a) what is a ‘parent’ low (is it the original larger system from which another low emanates?
b) What is a ‘polar’ low? Does this have to do with low pressure systems down in the polar latitudes or is it just a type of low?
Thanks Huey
Hey Ben, great notes as usual. What chance do you think we will have a few hours of offshore winds on the goldy tomorrow?
Sweet as looks like some fun waves to be had
Where in Noosa should I look for weekend waves?
Straight westerly winds and some swell for the weekend. First time in 2 years? Unbelievable
Shame about the wind across the southern Goldy points, as the E'ly swell is looking really nice. Though the faces are occasionally clean.
Middle to northern end of the Goldy nice and clean (for now, anyway).
Sunny Coast clean:
Shame about the low period though.
Not at all. Small but long period E swells usually produce close outs.
Agreed. Good face time on the walls out the front both today and yesterday. Long rights and lefts from the outer banks pretty much right to the beach. Good times.
Yep, I like the short period as the open beachies produce the goods and the crowds spread out
The beachies I’ve surfed today and yesterday were a bit messy - especially today. Maybe due to a secondary windswell? not sure but weekend should be fun
something to do with banks maybe? I feel like we've had so many southerly swells recently that my local beachie wasn't handling the change in direction
Surf on the SC was excellent this morning on the open beaches, best surf for sometime and super clean head high and some overhead sets. Yeeeeww
Yeah, pumping on the SC beaches this aye em. A very solid crew out, though. 8sec period helped in that regard - were plenty of waves to go around.
P.s. the Coolum cams are looking fantastic, Ben. Thanks a heap for sorting them out.
good sunny coast swell.
very ratty down here.
Yep GC beaches heaps of fun this morning. Thanks corona for my unemployment & opportunity to surf pumping waves.
Old mate in the report was calling 3-5ft SC today. 5ft!
I'm curious to know what you're getting at?
Some of the bombs were definitely around 5ft.
I think people on the SC have forgotten what an actual 5ft wave looks like.
yeah, that sounds like a drastic overcall to me.
I'd have to see photographic evidence to even go close to believing that.
Beat your chest harder, mate. The bombs (once every 45 minutes or so, cleaning everyone up) were comfortably overhead. The rest, 3-4ft. Pridmore was spot on yesterday judging by where I surfed.
Yeah, nah. Well overhead would be 4ft champ, which is what the bigger sets were yesterday.
No it's not. Overhead is 4ft foot, well over head is over 4 but under 6. Simple stuff really.
comfortably overhead surf sounds like 3-4ft to me. And when of the most experienced contributors on here, Sprout, calls it 2-3ft at the North end, I'll run with his call.
Unless evidence proves otherwise.
If it was 4-5ft and clean there'll be a heap of photos showing up to back it up.
Pretty accurate representation of what it was doing.
That's nice mate. Judging by that photo crew everywhere would have getting some sick ones.
Also looks like a different period altogether to what we had down Goldy.. or just the tide and photo timing just right.
Comfortably over head 3 ft? Hhmm, ok.
I wasn't up the sunny coast yesterday so I can't comment on what went on.
Who was calling it 4/5ft?
No chest beating here tomrnoir, merely stating my POV. Everyone has their own scales I guess and it sounds like FR and I call waves similarly. Not Hawaiian, not Surfline, not really wave face or back - I'm even hesitant to describe it using hip/shoulder/head etc. - you kinda just look at it and know.
In my experience though I feel the scale FR and I use is probably the most common way in this country. I'm not saying it's the only or most correct way, and if you or others call it differently that's great I just hope you're scoring waves and having fun mate!
For me, yesterday I surfed a spot that's usually bigger than places nearby. I surfed through the data peak too (wave buoy). To me it was 2-3ftish with some 4fters for a period at the swells peak. Wouldn't call it solid 3ft, nowhere near solid 4ft and nothing close to 5ft. My interpretation of 4ft starts clearing crowds around here and it was busy with people of all ages and ability.
Anyhoo, hope everyone's scoring waves and enjoying this beautiful Autumn weather.
5 foot and clean winds would be pretty much as good as the coast gets
Agreed. Surfed for a couple hours and the middle of the day. The odd set nudging 4ft but definitely nowhere near 5ft. 5ft is where it starts to get a little scary. Certainly none of that out there today from what I saw.
I have found the observed surf reports for the SC to be a bit variable in their accuracy over the past couple of months. They were generally pretty good, way better than the ones I used to get on the N Beaches in Syd. Often the report down there would be calling 3-4ft and you'd rock up and it would be 2x overhead freight trains storming through, that was equally as annoying. Perhaps more so than over estimating it.
I didn’t think 5 foot waves existed?
4 foot yeah, 6 foot ok. ;)
5 is ok but less common than 4 and 6.
7,9,11,13,14,16,17,18,19 is much rarer again.
I thought the scale went 1-2, 2-3, 3, 3-4, 4-6, 6, 6-8, 8-10, 12, 12+, 15+, 20+, faaaaaaaaaark?
Or small, smallish, fun, medium, good, biggish, kinda big, big, bit big hey, bloody big out there, reckon I'll watch today, fkn huge, faaaaaaaaaaark?
yeh just seen that report, 2-3ft beachies where i was, nth end, pretty nice tho....
Haha, Covering all bases it seems. I've read somewhere that 14% of waves are 1.5x the size of the average of the significant wave heights. So for consistent 3ft waves, expect there to be a 4.5 to 5ft set wave in the mix. Would love to hear what Ben has to say on that though? Is that theory consistently displayed?
This explains it well http://media.bom.gov.au/social/blog/870/ruling-the-waves-how-a-simple-wa...
It is saying 3 x in a 24hr period (or roughly one every 3000 waves) there will be a 'Maximal' wave that is roughly twice that of the significant wave height.
yep, the rockfishermans curse.
You ever pay credence to probability that around every 7th wave will be higher than the Sig Height waves? (i.e. when timing rock jumps or when hunting the bigger wave of a series of sets?
Great reading, thanks solitude. So do surf forecasters provide significant wave heights in their forecasts like the BOM do in the marine forecasts? Or is the most frequent wave height used for surf forecasting?
Edit:
Say if it was the most frequent wave height that was used. Then take today's example if were to be broken down:
8 second period
3600 seconds per hour
3600/8= 450 waves per hour
450/100*14% = 63 4.5/5ft waves per hour on a 3ft forecast..hhmm, interesting.
Some solid set waves this morning, easy 4ft and I know I'm going out on a limb here, but I dare say there were some 5fts. Always subjective and waves heights are predominantly called on emotions whilst out in the water haha.
I'm only guessing but seems like Sig. Height. The forecast this morning and the actual buoy reading from where I was bang on (swell height, period and direction)
Edit: this comment was based on the forecast swell train analysis: 'Primary swell'.
"Do surf forecasters provide significant wave heights in their forecasts like the BOM do in the marine forecasts?"
No. Surf forecasts are unique to surfers, because there are many variables that need to be taken into account. The size forecast (by me, at least) is an indication for what would be considered a 'set wave'. Of course, there's a million ways to interpret that (and let's not go there now) - the main thing you want to take away from a surf forecast is the trend.
BOM marine forecasts are computer generated. Very little QC goes into them (especially the swell components), unless conditions are deemed to be dangerous or there's something unusual in the mix (i.e large long period E'ly swell in Qld), though they often slip through cracks.
Also, your estimates for wave counts are quite a way off because the ocean isn't producing surf non-stop.
You're referring to Rayleigh distribution, which I've only seen in association with ocean waves. The theory should translate reasonably well to the nearshore zone though you'll obviously have different effects from break to break, and coast to coast, depending on the swell characteristics and underlying bathymetry.
Nice, so would my breakdown of today as an example hold weight?
And yes, Ive got some serious time on my hands haha. Should be studying but my mind cannot deal with anymore online lectures, and this is far more interesting.
As above, there's quite a few problems with your calculations.
Yep, there are mitigating factors I didn't take into account with the calculation, but was more trying to get to the bottom of what it was I am after. Very interesting stuff Ben and a supremely difficult job to do. Damned if you damned if you don't I say.
Yep, there are mitigating factors I didn't take into account with the calculation, but was more trying to get to the bottom of what it was I am after. Very interesting stuff Ben and a supremely difficult job to do. Damned if you damned if you don't I say.
If you want something to do try and come up with a formula which turns bouy data into wave heights on the beach... It often seems like the Mooloolaba bouy has no relevance to observed wave heights at say... Sunshine.
It seems like period plays a big role, as does wave angle (more east or even north is bigger) and larger observed wave heights (at bouy) prima facie means larger surf.
Something like z(period) X y(wave height) X (v/degrees) = wave height at beach in feet. Where z, y and v are constants
Yeah, i think that could be worthwhile angle to approach it from..the hard part would be figuring out a formula that produces consistent accuracy...plenty of time on my hands though haha.
Very difficult to do without extracting spectral data, even then the numbers don't always match up.
Started a post-grad project on this exact idea seventeen years ago, and have been trying to find a solution through Swellnet ever since. As have a significant number of (well funded) research entities.
All sounds easy in principle but the reality is a lot different.
So I guess doing a bunch of simultaneous equations doesn't work?
Eg today sunny coast was 2-3 feet at 5.30 am. Bouy at Mooloolaba at 5.30 was... 1 metre significant, 9.5 peak period and about 80 degrees.
Also any idea why the buoy gets so much totally wrong data? Eg times when the swell is coming from the west for a bit when it's clearly easterly
Wind.
"Also any idea why the buoy gets so much totally wrong data?"
Depends which buoys you are talking about (as each state using diff software). But just because the buoy data doesn't match what you're seeing at the beach, doesn't mean the data is "wrong".
There was a day with a decent eagerly swell a while ago which had a random period of it coming from the west. It seems like noise in the data set. I don't know how a 1.5 metre swell could be generated in a 10 kilometres stretch from the coast to the bouy.
My understanding is wave angle is an average so there shouldn't be noise/ false positives
"So I guess doing a bunch of simultaneous equations doesn't work?"
If it was that easy, someone would have already done it. There are coastal engineering firms spending millions of dollars building models to understand (and forecast) these processes.. it's really complex.
I've been thinking about it a bit on the drive back from work.
I reckon I could use SPSS fairly easily to get correlations between different factors and observed values. Which would allow a formula of wave bouy to observed wave heights to be written with confidence intervals. It's been at least 5 years since I've opened SPSS but I feel like that was half my psych degree.
If I can get past Mooloolaba bouy data can I get past sunny coast surf reports?
It'd be a bunch of partial differential equations, and there would be no analytical solution for such a complex problem.
With a very powerful array of computers and a sophisticated numerical solver you might get close - if you had all the input data perfectly right for every spot you're interested in. Not just swell size/angle/period either; you'd need to consider every single thing that might have an impact on breaker size. Bathymetry would probably be the most important, but I'm sure there's other factors too.
You miiight be able to get an empirical equation by analysing enough data, but that'd only be good for a narrow range of cases at the one spot you're looking at... so might as well just stick to gut feel by that point.
Bathymetry doesn't change if your looking at one beaches observations and one bouys observations.
I guess the sand banks do change though.
What do you mean there would not be an analytical solution?
The particular branch of physics that governs fluid flows isn't analytically solvable in any but the most simple cases. Put simply, the equations have too many unknowns and not enough knowns. Add in the gravity-wave specific physics etc and it get's even muddier. So you can't just write the equations down, plug in the data, and use mathematical tools to come up with an answer. (That's what it means to not have an analytical solution). To get any kind of answer you basically need to "guess and check" - which is what a numerical solution is (using a computer to do a sophisticated guess and check algorithm).
Awesome. Thanks. Very interesting.
Still waiting for concrete to arrive.
Can you link some of your published articles Ben please? Or even tell me your surname so I can look them up?
Nick, I don't have any papers (I'm not an academic). But, there's lots of interesting discussions in our Analysis section.
https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet-analysis
If you were doing a post doc wouldn't that mean there's a doctorate floating around?
Post-grad. Honours degree.
ie an experienced human brain connected to an experienced set of eyes still trumps technology for computational power.
For certain types of problems, for now, yeah.
totally, and with the appropriate error margins (large) factored in.
Yup.
Interesting that you never see a surf forecast (or weather forecast for that matter) with error bars... I guess the aim is to keep the info clean and simple.
nick, thermalben = Ben Matson.
Not having any luck on scholar or my uni library.
thats been the greatest advancement I made in my own forecasting journey: concentrating as much on the error margins as the accuracy.
FR, for sure, for me too. That plus focussing on trends more than anything else.
That might be the case. But sometimes it's nice to think about what the surf is like when you're not physically there. Eg right now I'm at work.
The surf report is good for an instantaneous snapshot... But it doesn't do trends. For example I'm currently at work not at the beach. This morning it was 2-3 feet The swell at the bouy is decreasing but the period is increasing. With a rough formula I could better tell if it's going to be 3 foot (go surfing) or dropping to less than 2 (get on the goon.)
Experience is the key there. Check the surf as much as you can, and keep a diary with the tide, swell size, direction, period, wind, state of the banks... You'll start to develop a pretty good gut feel for what the numbers will translate to.
http://forecast.waves.nsw.gov.au
Only for the NSW coast though
onshore 2ft here. unsurfable junk.
That’s 5/10 on the PridMORE scale.
That wind change seems to have stalled on the lower mid north
Steady 3ft+ sets on the Tweed today, shame about the wind. Was light early but by the time I got down it was already coming up.
it was NW on the goldy till about 1ish.. Majority of the beachies were good all morning till the tide got to high.... best waves in the last 2 days here in about 3 weeks easy.....
Give me short period ENE - ESE trade or windswells with West or NW winds over large groomed Groundswells for the Gold Coast any day.... basically it's super fun to pumping beachies where there is some space for everyone VS shit-fight city at the points. where you get nothing or burnt on every good wave.. ........
Yeah these peaky east swells are super fun on the beachies. It compensates for the fact that Gold Coast beachie banks are generally dog shit. I love Goldie surfers who have never been to say, Woolamai, talking up the banks...hahahaha.
yeah fair call. I have surfed up around magiclands and the colonnades (spelling?) and had epic waves down there.. super long waves of all types.. although the east coast (GC and SC espcially) do get those short punchy hollow beachies that provide high number of waves and variance.... and you don't have to wait..... and wait..... and wait... for sets...
Glad to see the Coolum cams up again.
Got some fun ones yesterday and a couple today. Water temp is amazing at the moment.
Models show North Island blocking another prime E swell.
Is that the third or fourth for the year?
Anyhow, going to be very interesting to see how these S swell pulses play out. I predict large error margins in the forecast again.
Strong westerly blowing now, hopefully goes through the night and the morning sees some good waves, was terrible here this morning (I didn't get to the beach till 8.15 though)
Size looked much better by this arvo
Noice.
not a great deal happening here.
1-3ft.
bit small and inconsistent for the points, bit long and straight for most beachies.
nice condys
Still two hours from low tide, and check how far the bank is outside of Spectator Rock. There's a gutter between it and the bank, which itself is three lines of whitewater wide. Amazing.
Pretty speccy... I apologise in advance.
Clean head high peaks this morning, odd bigger one. Lovely way to start the day.
Little watego's was bigger than it looked at dawn . Next 7 days looks great. Great Autumn so far
3-4ft on Coffs Coast. Nice crisp offshore. 4 of us :)
Nice on the sunny coast this morning if you got the right bank, bit crowded and inconsistent at times though
Bit smaller this morning