Coupla swell sources but fresh winds until Friday
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Monday 6th April)
Best Days: Tues/Wed/Thurs: small waves at outer points under S/SE airstream. Fri: plenty of E'ly swell and easing S'ly swell, with lighter winds. Sat/Sun: light winds, easing E'ly swell and a pulse of S'ly swell - possibly strong - for Northern NSW (Sun).
Recap: E’ly swells provided good waves to exposed beaches over the weekend. Size came in around 3ft at most open stretches though there were a few scattered reports of 4ft sets, mainly on Saturday. Today eased back to 2-3ft. Conditions were northerly-wind affected on Saturday, a few locations saw pockets of lighter NW winds but Sunday offered the best conditions with light offshore winds ahead of developing southerly winds. Today has seen early light SW winds in most areas swing fresh S’ly through SE.
This week (Apr 7 - 10)
A strengthening ridge across the coast will maintain moderate to fresh S/SE winds from Tuesday thru’ Thursday. A few regions might be lucky and pick up brief windows of lighter S/SW winds, but they’ll be the exception rather than the rule.
As for surf, we’ve got a couple of source on the cards but nothing overly special.
A supporting ridge below TC Harold - current devastating the Vanuatu region - will supply small, intermittent E’ly swells all week. Inconsistent sets in the 2-3ft range are likely all week.
The developing coastal ridge will stretch from the Mid North Coast into the Coral Sea, and although poorly aligned for our region (way too meridional - north/south - in orientation), we will see a small mid range swell, mainly at south facing beaches south of Byron with 2-3ft sets, smaller elsewhere.
The supporting high pressure system to the south-west will broaden through the Tasman Sea later this week and we’re looking at a swing in the swell direction to the E/SE by late Thursday and Friday, mainly favouring SE Qld with 3ft+ sets by Friday, though it’ll be smaller running down the points. Local winds should have relaxed a little by this stage too, though it’ll still be out of the SE quadrant north of the border.
The main swell even on the charts for this week is a southerly groundswell, thanks to a strong long wave trough tracking across Tasman Sea longitudes.
Initially, the early energy will be generated by weaker and/or less favourably aligned winds exiting eastern Bass Strait, and also along the Southern NSW coast. However the parent low - positioned well to the south of Tasmania this morning - is showing a decent fetch of 40-45kts winds, and will today track north-east through our south swell window, generating a larger pulse that’ll provide the biggest waves of the week.
Tuesday will generally see small southerly swells across Northern NSW, and the strong pulse from the parent low will push across the Northern NSW on Wednesday, reaching 3-5ft at south facing beaches south of Byron. Unfortunately, they’ll be quite wind affected and everywhere else will be a lot smaller. I’m not expecting much of this energy to penetrate north of the border. Wave heights will then ease steadily from Thursday.
Looking elsewhere, and TC Harold won’t directly generate any swell for us. It’s currently inside the New Caledonian swell shadow, and once it clears this region it’ll accelerate to the east towards the South Pacific, too fast to generate swell for the Australian East Coast.
Over the last week or so I’ve been mentioning a deep trough/tropical low well to the east, inside the NZ swell shadow that had some peripheral potential. Over the last few days the models have ever so slightly shunted this system to the south, to the point where I can be a little more confident in ruling out swell prospects for Southern NSW, but we should still see a small spread across Northern NSW - probably below that of the existing swells - whilst SE Qld should pick up inconsistent 3ft sets on Thursday and Friday.
This weekend (Apr 11 - 12)
Light winds are expected over the weekend as a high pressure ridge moves in from the west. This should create clean conditions across all coasts, both days.
As for surf, this week’s easterly and southerly swell sources will slowly abate. Saturday morning should still maintain 3ft sets across SE Qld, before size falls slowly into Sunday. Expect a little less size from this source as you head south of the border.
However, there is some southerly swell potential on the way for Northern NSW. At this stage there’s still a bit of divergence between the models so the specifics aren’t yet clear, but another amplifying node of the Long Wave Trough is expected below Tasmania later this week, and we’re looking at a long period S’ly swell arriving around Sunday that cold throw up some solid sets at south facing beaches south of Byron.
This output (via GFS, see below) shows incredibly strong winds aimed away from our swell window, but the resulting spread of energy would still kick up a large swell event somewhere in the 4-6ft range at reliable south swell magnets - however the flukey swell source would result in a wide range in size across the region. And I’m not expecting much of this swell to reach SE Qld, away from a handful of south swells magnets that might pick up 3ft sets.
Current indications are for good winds too, offshore though perhaps fresh at times.
This is all still quite some time away - and let me reiterate that the models are not completely on board with this scenario right now - so let’s take a closer look on Wednesday, as they’ll start to consolidate towards a common position by then.
Next week (Apr 13 onwards)
Powerful secondary fronts trailing behind the system responsible for the weekend’s south swell should maintain strong southerly swells across Northern NSW through the first half of next week, though the poor fetch alignment will keep a lid on anything overly sizeable.
That’s the main focus of the long term charts. We’ll firm up things in more details on Wednesday.
See you then!
Comments
Northern NSW looks the goods!
Nar looks better on the sunny coast:
Wind’s better suited, good banks at the moment, friendly locals, less shark attacks
;)
Hahaha. Nah SC skunked again, carpark the whole way up from Brizo, more lanes to NNSW much easier drive, empty banks, God's country down there. ;-P
No one will be able to surf after Easter anyways.
Was thinking the same thing... 100 guys at greenmount today, 1000 by Saturday, closed Tuesday.
Be sick if the Coolum surf cam got fixed sometime...
Hey Ben
Can you split the QLD & NNSW forecasts during this time. It’s one thing to have a warning at the top but it’s simply not being adhered to. It will help take the temptation away from QLD boneheads that clearly aren’t driving across the border for ‘essential needs’. Our council met today to discuss shutting the local beaches because the influx of people. Over the weekend was a joke, around 50 4x4’s on Seven Mile beach, majority QLDers. Now snapper etc is closed, it will get much worse.
Snapper closed? Cool story boofhead. Remember the sharks? The highway goes both ways idiot
Snapper looks fun as this arvo! minus the people of course
I had a good lunchtime sesh that surprised me, hasn't been great around lennox area, few fun beachy days here n there.
We'll be close to halfway through april by sunday and its been pretty shit so far, what the hell is going on!
It'll prob start pumping as soon as they ban surfing too :(
Any justification for having the cams still on ?
Encouraging travel and congestion.
Thanks
I'm not one to comment much on these public forums but I'm pretty sure if you don't like swellnet keeping a service running for paying subscribers you should use another site. I don't surf in Margaret River but I do enjoy checking out their cam now and then. Swellnet is not responsible for the decisions of people, nor is camera footage the only reason in someone is going to go surf. Get off your high horse and go choose some other element of society to vent your frustrations at.
Well said Herb
couldn't agree more herb.
Well said.
Agreed. The current measures around 'rona are working. We shouldn't need to close any further beaches. Surfcams need't be shut off.
Refracted S swells and onshore wind south of the border.
Surely that shit ain't being hyped up?
Plenty of NSW plates doing drive byes at snapper all the time along with the van loads of backpackers
geez don't you remember only blowins can be from qld
Nice pinky.
Stay at surf at your local simple
Nice early lines at Snapper Rocks.
A guy on a mal already dropping in at 6:01 AM.
Rust never sleeps .
Made me giggle to see it though so it’s not all bad.
A no comment, comment.
So thanks to all the travelling idiots who have been flooding down here every weekend, the 4wd beach accesses in Lennox/Ballina area are now shut. Congrats dickheads.
Reports that a certain local beach down here is as packed as Dbar this morning too...even though the waves are average as hell. If you idiots don’t stop travelling here from Byron/Gold Coast then they are going to close our beaches too.
#staythefuckhome and surf your local, stop putting our people at risk (the cluster of Covid cases are all mainly centred north of here in Byron/Goldy) and ruining our access to our local breaks.
Ignorant selfish people just don’t get the message
Spot on Dibbley! Word from council is they are going to close all beach access car parks in Ballina this Easter weekend as there are just too many muppets from Byron and Goldy flooding in every day. They are talking to Police about doing random license checks with $1000 fines for non residents here on non essential travel, let’s hope they Implement that ASAP.
#staythefuckhome and surf your local!
Saw the boys in blue doing the rounds of the TC carparks last night, moving people on, taking photos of QLD regos and issuing warnings/fines. Got up for a sneaky lure session predawn and low and behold not a single van in the carpark. It has looked like a caravan park for the last month. Apparently you can't prove essential travel for recreational purposes if you're travelling over the border. 1000 reasons to STAY HOME!
Be an interesting side note to see how they deal with NSW residents with QLD plates. I'd hazard a guess that pretty much every cane toad that has hopped south of the border still has QLD plates.
You'd think the NSW cops would able to easily follow up on this now.
They always ask 'do you still live at this address?'
If swellnet claim cameras do not add to congestion then why did Lennox camera get pulled down ?
Community pressure because there was zero social licence for Swellnet to suddenly surveill the break for private profit without community assent.
How long did that last? 2 days?
Yes it appeared that way...don’t shit where you sleep factor. Not enough pressure being applied to stop surf reporter telling the mob its 5/10 and go surfing when in actual fact it’s shit ?!?
And how is this any different to any small town remote-ish surf break that now has a camera on it?
No different, except people got off their arse and did something about it.
Surf cams =surveillance by private companies of public assets. Highly dubious concept to a lot of people.
But the demand is there so companies will fulfil it.
Yeah I’m suprised communities I live near will have it. I was stoked for your community when they pulled the lenno cam down.
Interesting forecast.
multiple pic upload
yeah 18Z model though. see what happens in the next run.
Still there in the 00z updates but moves fairly quickly through the swell window to the east. EC doesn't like it either.
yep, thats the problem with synoptic snap shots.
Totally.
SUNSHINE COAST IS CLOSED THIS EASTER
https://www.sunshinecoast.qld.gov.au/Council/News-Centre/Stay-home-this-...
Mayor Jamieson said the Queensland Police Service would patrol beaches, parks, nature reserves and public areas and anyone flouting the rules risked being fined.
“Large numbers of people congregating could force more facilities to close,” he said.
“Under the home confinement public health direction a person who resides in Queensland must not leave their principal place of residence except for necessary permitted purposes. This does not include leisure travel.
“Queenslanders should stay in their homes and should not travel. Now is not the time for people to leave their local area.
“This public health direction is currently in place until 19 May 2020 and may be extended further.”
I'm freaking out.. there were so many brisso up on the weekend.. the beach was more packed then any xmas crowd.. they need to close the highway just before Caloundra for easter.. with the Gold Coast closed, they r all going to head north
Mid Coast Council NSW beaches ie Forster, old Bar etc closed for school holidays from Wed night. Imagine the rest of the coast will end up same way.
Would have been 30-40 out at the main break here today. Biggest crowds I've seen in two years here. Just a matter of time before its all shut down.
Checked the snapper cam. A doz or more out.
Can I surf? 10 min bike ride to the beach from my place - GC based.
raggedy, short period S swell here. no harm, no foul if you miss it.
3/10.
3 coffees . 2 toasted sandwiches. Slightly rainy.
Staying at home is easy on days like today.
Forecast is for a walk on the beach / flick of a lure , swim , bit of beach aerobic activity ( pushups , burpees etc ) then whack on a movie ( surfing or otherwise) and enjoy over a couple of beers.
The horror
The horror
The horror
I've been sneaking my daily go out with family, 30 mins for physical and mental health.
avoiding good waves, which ironically are the closest ones to me (walking distance).
night-time fishing.
pre-dawn fishing.
got a real nice golden trevally this morning.
Golden !
Is that a regular occurrence around there ? What water temp you got ?
25-26 here a couple of days ago. Got a Spaniard off the current line between the dirty water and the clear. Geez, that fresh hangs around for a while .
Friday looking good to get the Sea Wok back out there. Assuming the fun police don’t crack down.
https://imgur.com/9mrsTSq
Dbah is now closed!
You can still walk down the hill
Why would you say that? So many blow ins the last few days from the northern end of the coast. This weekend is going to be fucked! Don’t tempt them to risk the drive.
Most GC cams down. Network issue or is it on purpose?
Network issue through our main data link at Cooly. Techs are headed on site right now.
Back now.
Cops booking people in Lennox car park this arvo.
better have your paperwork in order.
seriously though, missing nothing . scrappy 2-3ft bits and pieces with a 70's/80's vibe.
not worth a thousand dollar fine for.
The question still remains - how far can you travel?
Can you drive from Ballina to Lennox for "surfing exercise"?
Won't be a bad thing if they close all the carparks for Easter.
The cop in the video Ben posted in the other thread said "exercise in your own shire". So Lennox/Ballina would be fine in his eyes.
But it's still not clear.
I reckon close the carparks and ban car travel for exercise.
Makes it easy to police that way as well.
How many locals drive 500m to the surf anyway? Walk ya lazy bums haha
I dare say there'll be a bit of leeway unless you're being ridiculous.
Going by postcode would make it quite straightforward.
A bloke in Victoria got fined (later rescinded) for riding to a bike trail a few suburbs away.
Yeh I'd be fine with postcode too.