Extended run of windy points, and a SE groundswell too
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 6th March)
Best Days: Sat AM: brief window of clean conditions north from Byron. Sat PM onwards: persistent, windy run of waves for the SE Qld points. Mon/Tues/Wed: solid SE swell (mainly for Northern NSW). Best conditions likely south from Coffs.
Recap: Thursday was generally quite average with poor winds and a mix of building local swells and mid-range southerly swell. This morning offered a clean window of waves across a reasonable percentage of the coast as the synoptic flow went lighter N’ly, allowing for NW breezes at many spots. In addition to easing S’ly swells and small short range swells, a distant E’ly swell provided occasional 2-3ft sets at some exposed beaches. Winds freshened from the north from mid-morning onwards so the rest of the day was pretty average.
This weekend (Mar 7 - 8)
A S’ly change is pushing across Southern NSW as we speak, and will reach the Mid North Coast overnight.
By dawn, it will have nosed as far north as about Evans Head or Ballina, and will then extend into the SE Qld region over the following hours, reaching the Sunshine Coast before lunchtime.
As such, there will be a narrow window of opportunity early Saturday for clean conditions, diminishing with increasing southerly latitude. Sunshine Coast surfers can rest easy knowing there’s a couple of sessions worth of light westerlies, but anywhere south from North Straddie will want to make the most of the dawn patrol. It’s likely everywhere south of Ballina will be wind affected from the get-go.
As for surf, in Wednesday’s notes I was expecting today’s distant E’ly swell to persist through Saturday, though the buoy trace (above) is a little concerning, as it shows the peak energy has already been and gone. Based on this data, there’s little hope for any size - but I feel we’ll get a small renewal of energy overnight that’ll just manage to keep exposed beaches flush with extremely inconsistent 2-3ft sets.
Behind the change we’ll see building short range S’ly tending S/SE swells, possibly up into the 3-4ft+ range at south facing beaches south of Byron Bay later Saturday, settling to 3-4ft Sunday. However, Saturday will (obviously) be quite wind affected at this places picking up the most size, and elsewhere it’ll be a lot smaller.
Sunday will see similarly wind-affected conditions across Far Northern NSW, but the pressure gradient should relax quite a bit across the Mid North Coast, allowing conditions to improve. One or two spots may even pick up an early SW breeze though exposed spots will still be quite bumpy.
As for SE Qld this weekend, this region should pick up plenty of local swell from the advancing change, though the outer points will be a little smaller in size (protected inner points will be very small). The ridge will actually strengthen north from about Byron latitudes later Saturday into Sunday, which means we’ll theoretically see a little more size across he Sunny Coast than the Gold Coast, though the same caveats apply for the points and other protected spots.
So, late Saturday should have some 2-3ft runners across the outer points (bigger, wind affected 3-4ft surf at exposed northern ends), and Sunday’s shaping up for another foot across the Gold Coast, and possibly two across the Sunshine Coast. But, expect smaller surf running down the points.
And for the record, Saturday’s E’ly swell will ease back completely into Sunday - not that you’d be able to see it anyway.
So all in all, nothing amazing but there’ll be waves if you’re keen.
Next week (Mar 9 onwards)
An anchored ridge in the Tasman Sea and a coastal trough across Central Qld will maintain fresh, gusty SE winds across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW for much of next week. They’ll generate plenty of short range swell that should provide workable options along the region’s various points, as there’ll be a little more east in the swell direction.
So, expect small waves across the inner points though it won’t break anything amazing. Outer points will be sizeable - hovering between 3ft and (very occasionally) 5ft for most of the week - but there’ll be a fair degree of wobble at most breaks.
Wind strengths and surf size will ease/decrease as you head south from about Byron. And unfortunately (or fortunately, for a small stretch of the region where winds may become variable for a period), there’s a quality SE groundswell on the way.
A trough off the Southern NSW Coast today is actually the remnants of ex-TC Esther. Although it will contribute an average mix of southerly swells across the East Coast this weekend, the trough is expected to redevelop into an impressive Tasman Low later Saturday, near the SW tip of New Zealand’s South Island (see below). This is a decent upgrade from what Wednesday’s models were estimating.
This new cut-off low (are we still allowed to refer to its reincarnation as ex-TC Esther? I don’t know) is expected to reach a peak in intensity on Sunday morning, and then retrograde slowly westwards, back towards Australian longitudes, at strength, holding into Monday before rotating clockwise out of our swell window during Monday and then abating from Tuesday.
It looks like a fantastic low pressure system in one of my favourite swell windows for Southern NSW, and will also be ideally aligned for Northern NSW too. Even SE Qld will see some of the swell generated by this low, but the presence of wobbly local windswell will knock out the quality.
Anyway, the resulting SE groundswell will step-ladder upwards incrementally in size through Monday with solid 4-5ft sets at south facing beaches south of Byron (there may be a lag in the north though). Anywhere not open to the south will be smaller, of course.
The main energy is however expected to reach the Southern NSW overnight on Monday and will peak into Tuesday across all coasts, with the direction firmly around to the SE by this time. Most south facing stretches south of Byron should push the 4-6ft mark and I wouldn’t be surprised if the longer swell periods draw out nicely across a a bunch of exposed, reliable bombies, with occasional bigger bombs (they’ll be the exception rather than the rule though). A steady drop in size is then expected from Wednesday.
Local conditions look to be wind affected north from about Coffs or Yamba throughout this period, but the Mid North Coast should see mainly light variable winds. So, if you want to capitalise on this groundswell, aim the surf truck to the south (Southern NSW is looking great too).
The rest of the week will see a mix of rapidly easing SE swell and continuation of steady trade swell from a modest, persistent ridge through the Northern Tasman Sea. Small long period S’ly swells will glance the Northern NSW coast next week from distant polar lows but no major size is expected at this stage.
Long term model runs have a bevy of exciting developments in the Tasman Sea and Coral Sea, though they are a long way away and therefore aren’t worth getting too specific about right now.. but it is certainly worth pencilling in this time period as there's a heck of a lot of quality surf potential. It is autumn, after all.
Should you be freeing up the diary? Hell, yes.
Have a great weekend, see you Monday!
Comments
I'm heading South to meet some mates from Sydney halfway next weekend for a few days away, as such I've been checking WAMS for the last week in excited anticipation.
Every bloody 6hrs there's a completely different scenario! I kinda expected them to become slightly more settled by now but nope. Still no clue. Pretty sure this mornings Port Mac forecast for Sunday 15th was 30knt Southerlys now it's 6knts ENE.
I don't envy you having to write these notes.
Don’t read too much into it. It’s just guess work
Saw the kick in energy at the Tweed buoy overnight (compare the spectral image below to the one in the notes, above) and thought I may have undercalled the E'ly swell! But, so far looks like it's very close, I haven't seen anything bigger than 2-3ft yet.
Coolum:
D'Bah:
Very full tide at Surfers:
A mix of wind readings this morning too. The Sunshine Coast is light offshore (as expected) but it's been S'ly across the Gold Coast since 5am - only light in Cooly, but now gusting 16kts S/SE at the Seaway.
Cape Byron is still SW, but the S'ly change is into Evans Head, gusting 27kts (as expected). Yamba is also fresh S'ly but Coffs is strangely SW (though, this does happen from time to time, usually due to the Orara Escarpment).
I surfed the seaway, was terrible
Ocean is alive at the beaches clean of the tannins and the fresh.
Gar, tuna , dolphins. Nice to see some life .
Waves were offshore groomed but weak AF. Uncrowded on the mid but crew moving in as the tide dropped. Waves would have gotten better but the vibe would’ve gotten worse.
Nice morning. If I didn’t get Ross River from the car park mozzie assault I’ll be surprised.
thats good to hear. been tailor everywhere here, but despite the bath warm water I haven't seen any pelagics in close.
gar=tuna.
"gar=tuna."
And mackies...:)
Hey Ben-too far out to predict a forecast for The CoronaVirus Open yet?
Haha. Yep, too far out.
Hopefully this SE blow will help the bank too.
Patchy but totally workable surf this arvo (couldn't get out this morning). Generally 2-3ft but with a couple of 4ft sets (seemed to be out of the south). Certainly nothing special though.
Hello BABY!!!
I thought you hated those set-ups Don?
plenty of bone and blood on the prog charts.
I think it augurs poorly for the Quikky pro.
Blood and bone on the prog charts ?
Fucken hell...you fellas talk a different language. I learn a lot from reading these pages but a lot goes straight over my head .
Here’s Leonidas hitting the Swellnet boys up for a mid-August forecast for his Ments trip.
Well it’s better that what the charts were forecasting earlier in the week!! And I love a NE swell and SE wind combo!!!
3 foot peaks this morning. Few really punchy double ups.
Slight wobble but quite workable.
Less than half the crowd of yesterday
Interestingly the tweed ‘offshore’ wave buoy did indeed show yesterdays local swell as much more south in direction than the old buoy. As with this morning.
Indeed it did (offshore above, inshore below).
Other (expected) trends with the new offshore buoy - more ocean swell size, and also more contamination of Tp from the windswell.
Ah so the sharp rise and fall of the Tp is contamination from it picking up two or more swells (and their associated periods)? ie: that back ground east vs south windswell
The clue is in the name: peak swell period. So, Tp refers to the swell period related to the peak energy.
So with an existing E swell at 11-12 sec and a building S windswell at 6-8 sec, we can see that well offshore, the S windswell was (occasionally) more dominant (but not always).
Inshore however, the windswell is having less influence thanks to a bunch of processes - and thus the E swell retains its dominance.
Bad for the Quikky Pro as banks may be smashed before event?
possibly.
or, more likely they miss the swell cycle.
whats happened to the internet on the goldy? Mines down and it appears the coolie network is down also?
Network outage from Palmy to Cooly (not Swellnet infrastructure, but our ISP). Techs are working on it but unsure of the ETA.
Geezus how’s the latest Access G charts!!
They are all looking good swell wise
A big black hole that gobbles up NZ.
Forecast for a weeks' time is interesting.