Plenty of swell, with variable mileage
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 26th July)
Best Days: Most days have potential with this fickle, flukey E'ly swell. Sat the pick for the most size and best winds though. Smaller leftovers on Mon. Plenty of S'ly swell for Northern NSW mid-late next week.
Recap: As expected, we’ve seen a complex, flukey E’ly swell build across the coast over the last two days, in and around a small S’ly swell in Northern NSW on Thursday. Occasional 2ft sets out of the east were observed on Thursday, and some locations have pushed 2-3ft today though there’s been significant variations from coast to coast. Late afternoon/early evening observations suggests some bigger sets starting to push north of 3ft though it’s hard to be too sure (though, swell periods are increasing at the buoys, inline with expectations, which is a good sign). Interestingly, Southern NSW picked up 2ft sets from the same source this afternoon, despite the responsible low being even less favourably positioned inside the New Zealand swell shadow.
This weekend (July 27 - 28)
Today’s Forecaster Notes are brought to you by Rip Curl
It’s interesting looking at the array of buoy data across the coast at the moment. The Gold Coast buoy saw peak swell periods jump to 18 seconds after lunch, but by and large we’ve seen rather erratic results across the coast this afternoon which - with very inconsistent set waves - has made it difficult to asses these early, flukey phases of this swell event.
As for the weekend forecast, I really don’t have any evidence to suggest altering what I called on Monday and Wednesday - sure, the trend has been all over the shop for the last two days, but to date we’ve been close enough to the expected size range to be reasonably confident in the forward estimates, so I think the weekend will deliver good results across some coasts. Though, not all coasts - purely because of the fickle nature of these long range, long period E’ly groundswell and the way they interact across the near shore zone (we don’t get enough of ‘em to build up a quantifiable database).
So, without labouring the point, expectations are still that locations further north will see the most size. Of course, today’s observations have shown this to not necessarily be the case, however aside from basic scientific principles, I don’t have any other information to suggest otherwise.
The other aspect to consider is that we’re looking at a broad plateau in size oover the weekend. So, if Saturday morning doesn’t quite float your boat, then don’t write off the surf as the afternoon may deliver better results. Light offshore winds and afternoon sea breezes are expected during the day so conditions should be clean throughout. We’ll see similar (though gradually easing) swells into Sunday, but a series of weak fronts will swing winds to the southern quadrant (no major strength) so you may have to aim towards a southern end or outer point.
As for size, very inconsistent 4-5ft sets are still on the cards for some (lucky) exposed coasts on Saturday, easing back a little into Sunday, and we can expect the upper end of this size range to the north, and the lower end to the south. That’s about as much detail as I can go into here and now, until the actual energy starts to muscle in and shows its true self.
Next week (July 29 onwards)
Whatever E’ly swell makes landfall on the weekend will ease into Monday, and it’ll be clean with offshore winds. Yet another pulse of flukey E’ly swell is expected to arrive late in the day and hold through Tuesday, from another phase of strong activity from the South Pacific low - though having been generated further away (and no less favourably within the swell window) it’ll be a little smaller and equally fickle and flukey.
Let’s peg Tuesday’s size around 2-3ft+ at exposed coasts (mainly in the north) and expect even longer breaks between sets than what the weekend delivers. The east swell will then ease from Wednesday onwards.
In any case, a front will push up the coast on Tuesday, freshening winds from the south and building southerly wind swells across exposed south facing beaches in Northern NSW.
A stronger S’ly groundswell trailing behind will build through Wednesday, generated by the parent low (to Tuesday’s S’ly wind change), south of Tasmania on Monday. It look pretty impressive.
In fact, there’s a nice slingshot expected to occur as the low approaches Tasmania on Sunday afternoon - right on the western periphery of our acute south swell window - and I think that could offer a pulse of bigger surf above the broader regional expectations (i.e. occasional 5-6ft sets at south swell magnets, though in general we’re probably looking at a 3-5ft south swell event through the middle of the week).
Otherwise, the rest of the week will maintain similar, moderate levels of southerly swell across Northern NSW from secondary fronts pushing through the central/eastern Tasman Sea, ahead of an enormous Southern Ocean low below Tasmania at the end of the model runs that suggests a brief though impressive long period swell around the middle of next weekend (only low confidence at this early stage though).
SE Qld won’t see much size from this southerly swell pattern though, so make the most of the inconsistent E’ly swell.
Have a great weekend!
Comments
Brisbane spectral showing the new swell nicely.
Tweed Buoy, BAM 15s E.
Gold Coast buoy, 18 seconds.
Really hope this doesn't peak overnight
hang on, its blowing northerly now, probably northerly in the morning so it's going to have that horrible northerly scarring on it. \
northerly in july, wtf?
SE Qld blowing WNW now on both Seaway and Cooly, so be clean up there.
NNW here, NW at Coolie.
that won't be clean.
fcuk a long range E swell in July ruined by northerlies. You wouldn't read about it.
Any thoughts on what the spike in period energy here is about? All the way from Fraser up past Agnes Water
https://www.qld.gov.au/environment/coasts-waterways/beach/monitoring/wav...
Been discussing it at length in the Forecaster Notes since Monday (in fact, Monday's notes are now 4 days old and thus out from behind the paywall, so you can read what I wrote then, here). Showing nicely in the water now too.
Don't want to hear any whinging and moaning today, Sprout.
Overhead barrels all morning thank you very much!
Nice to hear, Ben is on the mark.... like always! Nice waves down here too!
3ft here with severe bump and northerly scarring all through it.
surfable but very weird and sectiony.
3/10.
Got some beauties good to do some carves.
Old mate on the dawn GC report got a bit excited with his rating. 8/10?
The beachies look fantastic today. The sun is out, winds are offshore and there’s a strong easterly groundswell. Ticks most of the boxes, unless you’re only interested in the points.
The 8:14am guy says 4/10
He’s based at the southern points, which are certainly not as good today. Broadly speaking, it looks unreal out there. If I were so lucky to have dialed into one of the barrels I saw down the beach earlier, I’d personally be calling it a ten. But that’s just me.
Anyway, I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again - ratings systems suck. We never really wanted them on the site, but they’re kinda here to stay - but I’m perplexed as to how many people get riled up about a numeric value that may or may not equate with their own interpretation of what’s going on.
I’m way more concerned with whether the information we provide is of value to our subscribers. Hopefully everyone that has been reading the notes this week was aware that the weekend had potential for a solid though inconsistent long period east swell with light winds, and made their plans accordingly.
most gc beachies too straight, unless you are lucky and in the right spot right on the end of one
It’s cool, not having a crack really. Dawn chappie must’ve caught a screamer before his report. Inco swells on the goldy are fraught with frustration due to the sheer weight of numbers. Enjoyment factor drops in line with consistency
Central beachies are loooong and straight. Very few takers on outside banks
beachies are a mess down here.
very long and straight and with the northerly bump and low tide it's just a mass of inconsistent close-outs.
I wouldn't call it a strong E'ly groundswell by any means; the period might be statistically high but swell decay has really shaved off the juice and the size doesn't warrant that call.
If it was really clean there would be fun but super incon waves around.
You nailed the sunny coast forecast from a long way off Ben when most models weren’t calling much. Pumping 4ft+ and clean as with big swell period exactly as forecast. There’s some great banks up here and wind has been offshore all day so far. Loving it. Nice work.
Thanks mate.
Had a two-hour surf, lots of long lulls with most waves around the 3ft range but there were probably half a dozen sets bigger than 4ft, less than 5ft. Winds were a mix between light NW and calm/glassy. Stunning weather, and stacks of whales passing outside made for a lovely vibe.
Hi Ben,
Love ya work :) your forecasts are almost always spot on for my area . Is there anywhere to access the buoy data on Swellnet? If no is there a reason they they don’t let you share it ?
Cheers
Thanks mate. No buoy data on Swellnet at the present time - yes, there is a (not insignificant) fee to receive a live feed, but we'll eventually have the data on our site.
One bloke on this bank right now. Good work son!
Check the line. That's a proper groundswell. No ifs or buts.
Surfed a bit down close to Marcus Beach, you nailed the forecast, solid waves on the sets, some close-outs but with patience scored good 4ft+.
Thanks fella. How were the crowds? Been watching the cams on and off and looked like bugger-all from what I could see (apart from Alex, which was very well populated as per usual).
Absolutely fine on the beaches
No crowd at all, few surfers out but all spread on some banks in the area. Could catch all the waves that I wanted.
Very disappointing on the southern Goldie today, epic lined up swell battered by devil winds. Banks are all time again, but f*ck this wind. Beachies are way too straight - 400m long close out sections. Praying for a southerly puff tomorrow, always a good time Sunday arvo when the half of Brisbane that's not on the Sunny coast is heading home from here :) And top work Ben - nailed the forecast as always, I have a very happy mate a long way further north this weekend! Not very often the Sunny Coast gets the best of it...
Was quite straight southern SC and the crowds were out at the place with the rock but some good ones if you scored some corners. Definitely no complaining about east swell and offshore till lunch time
Another lovely morning of waves.
Alex looks like such a nice wave. Magic
Agnes Water picked up a few small peelers from this groundswell too (first image is today, other images are yesterday).
Hey Ben,
I'm looking for that article that was up during the week about those stupid asym boards, so that I can write derisive comments about them, but I can't find it. Can you point me in the direction please mate? Or are those boards so stupid that you had to take the article down? LOL
Byron hasn't been good, everyone was at the only spot to hide from northerlys yesterday, got a few good ones only to be bumped off by the chop in wave face. Mostly a waste of time, would get 20 meters down the line and then pull off before close out. That said the shredders were getting some goodies.
The low tide this morning saw only a few places working and they were so busy i didn't even bother. Hoping to score an arvo sesh on the higher tide if the winds hold up. Im dying for some good waves
Broken
Yeh that many people on it though. Looked like a shit time trying to get a good one
Linez.
Pumping surf this morning, still 3-4ft and clean with light winds. Seemed to be a smidge more consistent than yesterday too (though still long waits for waves, just not as long as Sunday).
Too right Ben, the dawn patrol this morning definitely had a lot more push than yesterday arvo in Cooly. Super clean and straight - great start to the week yeeew!
Sniffed by a shark on one of the south Qld islands Saturday, only one out s##t myself