Plenty of swell, with variable mileage

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 26th July)

Best Days: Most days have potential with this fickle, flukey E'ly swell. Sat the pick for the most size and best winds though. Smaller leftovers on Mon. Plenty of S'ly swell for Northern NSW mid-late next week

Recap: As expected, we’ve seen a complex, flukey E’ly swell build across the coast over the last two days, in and around a small S’ly swell in Northern NSW on Thursday. Occasional 2ft sets out of the east were observed on Thursday, and some locations have pushed 2-3ft today though there’s been significant variations from coast to coast. Late afternoon/early evening observations suggests some bigger sets starting to push north of 3ft though it’s hard to be too sure (though, swell periods are increasing at the buoys, inline with expectations, which is a good sign). Interestingly, Southern NSW picked up 2ft sets from the same source this afternoon, despite the responsible low being even less favourably positioned inside the New Zealand swell shadow. 

Late lines at Caloundra on the Sunny Coast

Near-chunky full tide sets late Friday at D'Bah

Plenty of swell on the Coffs Coast

This weekend (July 27 - 28)

Today’s Forecaster Notes are brought to you by Rip Curl

It’s interesting looking at the array of buoy data across the coast at the moment. The Gold Coast buoy saw peak swell periods jump to 18 seconds after lunch, but by and large we’ve seen rather erratic results across the coast this afternoon which - with very inconsistent set waves - has made it difficult to asses these early, flukey phases of this swell event. 

As for the weekend forecast, I really don’t have any evidence to suggest altering what I called on Monday and Wednesday - sure, the trend has been all over the shop for the last two days, but to date we’ve been close enough to the expected size range to be reasonably confident in the forward estimates, so I think the weekend will deliver good results across some coasts. Though, not all coasts - purely because of the fickle nature of these long range, long period E’ly groundswell and the way they interact across the near shore zone (we don’t get enough of ‘em to build up a quantifiable database). 

So, without labouring the point, expectations are still that locations further north will see the most size. Of course, today’s observations have shown this to not necessarily be the case, however aside from basic scientific principles, I don’t have any other information to suggest otherwise. 

The other aspect to consider is that we’re looking at a broad plateau in size oover the weekend. So, if Saturday morning doesn’t quite float your boat, then don’t write off the surf as the afternoon may deliver better results. Light offshore winds and afternoon sea breezes are expected during the day so conditions should be clean throughout. We’ll see similar (though gradually easing) swells into Sunday, but a series of weak fronts will swing winds to the southern quadrant (no major strength) so you may have to aim towards a southern end or outer point. 

As for size, very inconsistent 4-5ft sets are still on the cards for some (lucky) exposed coasts on Saturday, easing back a little into Sunday, and we can expect the upper end of this size range to the north, and the lower end to the south. That’s about as much detail as I can go into here and now, until the actual energy starts to muscle in and shows its true self. 

Next week (July 29 onwards)

Whatever E’ly swell makes landfall on the weekend will ease into Monday, and it’ll be clean with offshore winds. Yet another pulse of flukey E’ly swell is expected to arrive late in the day and hold through Tuesday, from another phase of strong activity from the South Pacific low - though having been generated further away (and no less favourably within the swell window) it’ll be a little smaller and equally fickle and flukey. 

Let’s peg Tuesday’s size around 2-3ft+ at exposed coasts (mainly in the north) and expect even longer breaks between sets than what the weekend delivers. The east swell will then ease from Wednesday onwards. 

In any case, a front will push up the coast on Tuesday, freshening winds from the south and building southerly wind swells across exposed south facing beaches in Northern NSW. 

A stronger S’ly groundswell trailing behind will build through Wednesday, generated by the parent low (to Tuesday’s S’ly wind change), south of Tasmania on Monday. It look pretty impressive. 

In fact, there’s a nice slingshot expected to occur as the low approaches Tasmania on Sunday afternoon - right on the western periphery of our acute south swell window - and I think that could offer a pulse of bigger surf above the broader regional expectations (i.e. occasional 5-6ft sets at south swell magnets, though in general we’re probably looking at a 3-5ft south swell event through the middle of the week). 

Otherwise, the rest of the week will maintain similar, moderate levels of southerly swell across Northern NSW from secondary fronts pushing through the central/eastern Tasman Sea, ahead of an enormous Southern Ocean low below Tasmania at the end of the model runs that suggests a brief though impressive long period swell around the middle of next weekend (only low confidence at this early stage though).

SE Qld won’t see much size from this southerly swell pattern though, so make the most of the inconsistent E’ly swell. 

Have a great weekend!

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 6:26pm

Brisbane spectral showing the new swell nicely.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 7:15pm

Tweed Buoy, BAM 15s E.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 7:21pm

Gold Coast buoy, 18 seconds.

surfiebum's picture
surfiebum's picture
surfiebum Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 8:09pm

Really hope this doesn't peak overnight

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 9:08pm

hang on, its blowing northerly now, probably northerly in the morning so it's going to have that horrible northerly scarring on it. \

northerly in july, wtf?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 9:33pm

SE Qld blowing WNW now on both Seaway and Cooly, so be clean up there.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 5:42am

NNW here, NW at Coolie.

that won't be clean.

fcuk a long range E swell in July ruined by northerlies. You wouldn't read about it.

Fliplid's picture
Fliplid's picture
Fliplid Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 6:37am

Any thoughts on what the spike in period energy here is about? All the way from Fraser up past Agnes Water
https://www.qld.gov.au/environment/coasts-waterways/beach/monitoring/wav...

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 6:40am

Been discussing it at length in the Forecaster Notes since Monday (in fact, Monday's notes are now 4 days old and thus out from behind the paywall, so you can read what I wrote then, here). Showing nicely in the water now too.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 7:23am

Don't want to hear any whinging and moaning today, Sprout.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 12:33pm

Overhead barrels all morning thank you very much!

aza1301's picture
aza1301's picture
aza1301 Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 3:42pm

Nice to hear, Ben is on the mark.... like always! Nice waves down here too!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 7:44am

3ft here with severe bump and northerly scarring all through it.

surfable but very weird and sectiony.

3/10.

redmondo's picture
redmondo's picture
redmondo Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 9:16am

Got some beauties good to do some carves.

kaiser's picture
kaiser's picture
kaiser Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 9:10am

Old mate on the dawn GC report got a bit excited with his rating. 8/10?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 9:28am

The beachies look fantastic today. The sun is out, winds are offshore and there’s a strong easterly groundswell. Ticks most of the boxes, unless you’re only interested in the points.

kaiser's picture
kaiser's picture
kaiser Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 9:41am

The 8:14am guy says 4/10

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 9:54am

He’s based at the southern points, which are certainly not as good today. Broadly speaking, it looks unreal out there. If I were so lucky to have dialed into one of the barrels I saw down the beach earlier, I’d personally be calling it a ten. But that’s just me.

Anyway, I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again - ratings systems suck. We never really wanted them on the site, but they’re kinda here to stay - but I’m perplexed as to how many people get riled up about a numeric value that may or may not equate with their own interpretation of what’s going on.

I’m way more concerned with whether the information we provide is of value to our subscribers. Hopefully everyone that has been reading the notes this week was aware that the weekend had potential for a solid though inconsistent long period east swell with light winds, and made their plans accordingly.

scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 12:33pm

most gc beachies too straight, unless you are lucky and in the right spot right on the end of one

kaiser's picture
kaiser's picture
kaiser Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 10:06am

It’s cool, not having a crack really. Dawn chappie must’ve caught a screamer before his report. Inco swells on the goldy are fraught with frustration due to the sheer weight of numbers. Enjoyment factor drops in line with consistency

kaiser's picture
kaiser's picture
kaiser Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 10:13am

Central beachies are loooong and straight. Very few takers on outside banks

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 10:20am

beachies are a mess down here.

very long and straight and with the northerly bump and low tide it's just a mass of inconsistent close-outs.

I wouldn't call it a strong E'ly groundswell by any means; the period might be statistically high but swell decay has really shaved off the juice and the size doesn't warrant that call.

If it was really clean there would be fun but super incon waves around.

Lukegiles's picture
Lukegiles's picture
Lukegiles Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 12:54pm

You nailed the sunny coast forecast from a long way off Ben when most models weren’t calling much. Pumping 4ft+ and clean as with big swell period exactly as forecast. There’s some great banks up here and wind has been offshore all day so far. Loving it. Nice work.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 12:59pm

Thanks mate.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 1:02pm

Had a two-hour surf, lots of long lulls with most waves around the 3ft range but there were probably half a dozen sets bigger than 4ft, less than 5ft. Winds were a mix between light NW and calm/glassy. Stunning weather, and stacks of whales passing outside made for a lovely vibe.

Skeggzie's picture
Skeggzie's picture
Skeggzie Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 1:56pm

Hi Ben,
Love ya work :) your forecasts are almost always spot on for my area . Is there anywhere to access the buoy data on Swellnet? If no is there a reason they they don’t let you share it ?
Cheers

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 2:04pm

Thanks mate. No buoy data on Swellnet at the present time - yes, there is a (not insignificant) fee to receive a live feed, but we'll eventually have the data on our site. 

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 2:09pm

One bloke on this bank right now. Good work son!

Check the line. That's a proper groundswell. No ifs or buts.

g.petenate's picture
g.petenate's picture
g.petenate Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 2:13pm

Surfed a bit down close to Marcus Beach, you nailed the forecast, solid waves on the sets, some close-outs but with patience scored good 4ft+.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 2:18pm

Thanks fella. How were the crowds? Been watching the cams on and off and looked like bugger-all from what I could see (apart from Alex, which was very well populated as per usual).

nick.minor's picture
nick.minor's picture
nick.minor Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 2:20pm

Absolutely fine on the beaches

g.petenate's picture
g.petenate's picture
g.petenate Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 2:37pm

No crowd at all, few surfers out but all spread on some banks in the area. Could catch all the waves that I wanted.

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 5:01pm

Very disappointing on the southern Goldie today, epic lined up swell battered by devil winds. Banks are all time again, but f*ck this wind. Beachies are way too straight - 400m long close out sections. Praying for a southerly puff tomorrow, always a good time Sunday arvo when the half of Brisbane that's not on the Sunny coast is heading home from here :) And top work Ben - nailed the forecast as always, I have a very happy mate a long way further north this weekend! Not very often the Sunny Coast gets the best of it...

Luke02's picture
Luke02's picture
Luke02 Saturday, 27 Jul 2019 at 5:05pm

Was quite straight southern SC and the crowds were out at the place with the rock but some good ones if you scored some corners. Definitely no complaining about east swell and offshore till lunch time

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 28 Jul 2019 at 7:46am

Another lovely morning of waves.



dangerouskook2000's picture
dangerouskook2000's picture
dangerouskook2000 Sunday, 28 Jul 2019 at 7:12pm

Alex looks like such a nice wave. Magic

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 28 Jul 2019 at 9:01am

Agnes Water picked up a few small peelers from this groundswell too (first image is today, other images are yesterday).




dangerouskook2000's picture
dangerouskook2000's picture
dangerouskook2000 Sunday, 28 Jul 2019 at 1:00pm

Hey Ben,
I'm looking for that article that was up during the week about those stupid asym boards, so that I can write derisive comments about them, but I can't find it. Can you point me in the direction please mate? Or are those boards so stupid that you had to take the article down? LOL

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Sunday, 28 Jul 2019 at 1:08pm

Byron hasn't been good, everyone was at the only spot to hide from northerlys yesterday, got a few good ones only to be bumped off by the chop in wave face. Mostly a waste of time, would get 20 meters down the line and then pull off before close out. That said the shredders were getting some goodies.
The low tide this morning saw only a few places working and they were so busy i didn't even bother. Hoping to score an arvo sesh on the higher tide if the winds hold up. Im dying for some good waves

dangerouskook2000's picture
dangerouskook2000's picture
dangerouskook2000 Sunday, 28 Jul 2019 at 2:32pm

Broken

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Sunday, 28 Jul 2019 at 11:04pm

Yeh that many people on it though. Looked like a shit time trying to get a good one

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 29 Jul 2019 at 11:31am

Linez.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 29 Jul 2019 at 12:05pm

Pumping surf this morning, still 3-4ft and clean with light winds. Seemed to be a smidge more consistent than yesterday too (though still long waits for waves, just not as long as Sunday).

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Monday, 29 Jul 2019 at 2:29pm

Too right Ben, the dawn patrol this morning definitely had a lot more push than yesterday arvo in Cooly. Super clean and straight - great start to the week yeeew!

Booka78's picture
Booka78's picture
Booka78 Monday, 29 Jul 2019 at 8:38pm

Sniffed by a shark on one of the south Qld islands Saturday, only one out s##t myself