Sustained though complex, flukey E'ly swell inbound

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 24th July)

Best Days: Most days have potential for fun waves though the weekend should see the biggest surf (with the largest waves expected across the Sunshine Coast). It'll be pretty flukey and inconsistent though, with wide variations from break to break, and smaller surf south from the Gold Coast. Early next week should also provide fun beachies on the backside of this event with light winds keeping conditions clean. 

Recap: Tiny conditions in SE Qld for the last few days, with a small S/SE swell coming in a little under budget across Northern NSW, with slow 2ft sets at south facing beaches. A small new long range E’ly swell has appeared sporadically this afternoon, with slow, inconsistent 1-2ft sets at a handful of exposed beaches. 

Small E'ly lines showing in Yamba this afternoon

... and also in Coffs Harbour

This week (July 25 - 26)

Today’s Forecaster Notes are brought to you by Rip Curl

OK, first things first. A cold front pushed out from eastern Bass Strait overnight and is now progressing across the Tasman Sea. We’ll see a small, brief spike of S’ly swell across Northern NSW on Thursday (biggest in the afternoon), but exclusive to south swell magnets south of Byron. 

An associated S’ly change is pushing along the coast, and although it will clear to the east during the day, some locations may see a lingering S’ly breeze through the morning. Nevertheless, lighter winds are expected in the afternoon and this is when surf size will reach a peak, with inconsistent 3ft sets at south facing beaches south of the border (smaller earlier, especially in the Far North).

Elsewhere there won't be anywhere near as much size, and SE Qld won’t pick up much of the south swell away from exposed northern ends. 

This S’ly swell will then ease slowly through Friday.

We also still have some long range E’ly swell potential for the rest of the week.

Despite the last 36 hours seeing very little size from this quadrant, model guidance is maintaining 0.6m out of the east at 12 seconds on Thursday (across the Gold Coast), with swell periods jumping to 16 seconds on Friday afternoon. Based on the raw numbers alone, we should see inconsistent 2-3ft sets on Thursday and 3-4ft on Friday though I feel it’ll come in a little smaller than this, and a little slower too (i.e. undersized early Thursday) and quite inconsistent. 

Also, as mentioned on Thursday, because of the position of the low generating the swell relative to the shadowing influence of New Zealand, the Fraser/Sunshine Coast will pick up the most size from this event, with surf size likely to decrease slowly as you work your way south of the Gold Coast. Of course, there will be local exceptions to this rule but in general I anticipate the biggest waves will be found further north. 

Unfortunately there’s no way to assess the incoming swell as there are no physical buoys between the source and the Australian East Coast (apart from our nearshore network) so we’ll just have to monitor the surfcams for signs of life. 

Either way, Friday will see good conditions with light variable winds (maybe a weak afternoon sea breeze) and you’re likely to pick up the biggest waves in the afternoon. 
 
This weekend (July 27 - 28)

With only modest synoptic activity across the Tasman Sea later this week, our weekend’s surf potential will rely mainly on the long range east swell.

Again, confidence is not high for this event. And locations further north are likely to pick up the biggest waves, with smaller surf generally expect south from the Gold Coast - though local exceptions to this are likely to throw plenty of curveballs. 

Local winds look favourable for just about everywhere with a weak ridge of high pressure creating light offshore winds in the mornings, and light onshore sea breezes in the afternoons. 

Therefore, all we can really do is highlight the expect trend, peg a size and a region for the upper limits of the swell event, and then see what happens. 

As such, I still can’t find any evidence to deviate away from Monday’s estimates, with some reliable swell magnets on the Sunshine Coast seeing inconsistent 4-5ft+ sets on Saturday, easing to 3-5ft Sunday.

But, size will vary enormously across the region from break to break, and locations south from Moreton Island will see proportionally smaller surf; for reference the Mid North Coast probably coming in around 2-3ft Saturday, a little smaller Sunday.

Let’s see what happens, eh? 

Next week (July 29 onwards)

The E’ly swell machine E/NE of New Zealand is expected maintain strength until the end of this week, though with a slow eastward drift, so we’re looking at a pulsey mix of smaller long range E’ly swell across SE Qld early next week - down to 2-3ft+ Monday, but with a slight pulse of maringally longer period energy maintaining a similar size through Tuesday, before the easing trend starts to show more prominently from Wednesday onwards. I suspect there could be some form of underlying rideable E’ly swell until the end of the week though.

As per the weekend, expect smaller surf south from the Gold Coast.

Otherwise, a strong front is expected to rocket into the Southern Ocean next Tuesday, and delivery a spell of large, windy waves across Northern NSW with size around 6ft+ from Wednesday thru’ Friday, with southerly gales to accompany and the best surf likely to be across the SE Qld outer points where it'll be half the size or smaller.

More on that in Friday’s update.

Comments

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Thursday, 25 Jul 2019 at 2:26pm

Late next week looks interesting.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 25 Jul 2019 at 2:41pm

that to me, looks like a reversion to the pattern that has been afflicting us for a year: swell from the Eastern quadrant buried in a straight onshore E'ly flow.

Feels like with the end of that last series of S swells winter has finished for the year.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Thursday, 25 Jul 2019 at 4:30pm

Don't say it FR, it'd be too cruel.
Then again, I've just picked up a new stick, so it wouldn't surprise.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Thursday, 25 Jul 2019 at 4:38pm

Sacrifice it immediately!

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Thursday, 25 Jul 2019 at 4:50pm

You wash your mouth out!
When I first saw it I made a sound a bit like '89 World Champ Martin Potter does when he describes a particularly impressive turn, something like an involuntary drawn-out guttural grunt.

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay Thursday, 25 Jul 2019 at 5:14pm

"Wow! I tell what Joe, in my day we had proper surfboards..."

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 25 Jul 2019 at 5:03pm

what is it Andy?

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Thursday, 25 Jul 2019 at 5:09pm

8’6”, 22 1/2, 3 1/4, 67 litres, double ender.
For those tiny days and also for those larger days when you, you know, want to get in early.
Really wasn’t sure what Webby was going to conjure up, but I like it.

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay Thursday, 25 Jul 2019 at 5:15pm

Sounds enticing, Andy. A photo, please?

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Thursday, 25 Jul 2019 at 5:25pm

I’ll have to wait till I get back home to my computer IB.
But I reckon it’s got fun written all over it.
Though I might change my mind when I wear a cleanup set on the head - at least I can duck dive my 7’2”.

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay Thursday, 25 Jul 2019 at 5:30pm

Haha, yes.
Even with my 6'10 Desert Storm, it gets tricky. Duck dives fine through one or two bombs in Indo, for instance, but paddling out through lots of closeouts and you quickly run out of steam.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Thursday, 25 Jul 2019 at 5:36pm

Yep, requires more prep, better timing and an adjustment further forward.

kavachi's picture
kavachi's picture
kavachi Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 8:45am

hey Andy - would love to see a pic of that new 8'6 from Webby!!

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 2:01pm

That's my 6'8" next to it for a bit of perspective.

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 2:24pm

A beast - in all the right ways!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 25 Jul 2019 at 5:29pm

probably be some little peelers around the next few days if you can find a corner.

small and very straight this arvo.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Thursday, 25 Jul 2019 at 5:47pm

Small? I’ve got just the board.

g.petenate's picture
g.petenate's picture
g.petenate Thursday, 25 Jul 2019 at 9:59pm

Many cars today packed with surfboards going up to Sunshine Coast. Forecast looks bigger there but bigger waves already reported south of the border as usual.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 8:55am

Waste of fuel, when will they learn.

g.petenate's picture
g.petenate's picture
g.petenate Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 10:25am

Maybe just overseas people that don't know the area, which is good, leaves more waves for the rest of us.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 9:44am

Perplexing spectral data from Brisbane. Thursday morning saw a significant widening of the spectrum as both short range windswell (from the modest S/SE change) and longer period energy (from the anticipated E'ly swell) pushing through.

Kinda hard to interpret the significant energy increase in the 12-13 second range around 6pm last night. Local wind throttled back at the Seaway but the energy increase is not proportional to what we're seeing out of the east (at the coast) today.

surfiebum's picture
surfiebum's picture
surfiebum Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 10:37am

Yeah Mooloolaba buoy has had a bump in swell size and period, but it is not showing at the beach at all.
2ft gutless wind slop and I walked the dog for an hour looking for inconsistent sets.

NZ doesn't really need that north island does it?

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 1:13pm

Aren't we expecting much longer period than 12-13 sec?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 2:04pm

A little more, though not much - and not arriving until later today or overnight (15 seconds).

However the spectral data is alerady showing a broad spread of (weak) energy in the 15-20 second band. I was referencing the concentration of energy in the 12-13 sec range. 

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 6:00pm

New longer period showing up on Brisbane and Byron buoys

spookypt's picture
spookypt's picture
spookypt Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 10:12am

Where is it??????????????????????? Common Huey!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 10:35am

2-3ft sets on the Tweed this morning. Nothing special but def out of the east. 

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 11:56am

I counted 12-13 period E swell yesterday afternoon but it was very small.

thats a hard concept for people to get their heads around: longish period swell but all the size and power shaved off by swell decay and possible refractive drag from the North Island.

nick.minor's picture
nick.minor's picture
nick.minor Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 1:01pm

It's definitely picked up since this morning. (Northern end of the sunshine coast)

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 1:14pm

Yeah looks to be 2-3ft on the sets now though pretty full and fat. Upcoming high tide after 3pm won't help much either. Hopefully a little more size as the arvo progresses.


Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 1:31pm

Checked Kawana, nothing at all. Nothing much M'dore either. Coolum and north by the looks of the cams. Meanwhile, don't check the Margs cam.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 2:17pm

*Sprout: shield your eyes*

The E'ly swell is starting to show in Sydney with occasional 2ft+ sets. 

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 2:39pm

Haha! Of course it is.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 2:45pm

I should have reworded the forecast: "See that low, sitting east of New Zealand, well inside the swell shadow, aimed best towards locations north of Moreton Island? Well, the swell it generates is actually going to give the Sunny Coast the bird, and instead diffract one hundred and twenty degrees around the North Island, and favour Southern NSW. Go figure, eh?"

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 2:59pm

Hahaha gold. Business as usual.

aza1301's picture
aza1301's picture
aza1301 Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 4:36pm

Exactly what I was referencing from that 2017 swell Sprout. Will be interesting to see what transpires in the next 2days. We might have to pencil this rule in for future swells that are generated from that region, saves the Sunny Coast boys from getting over excited....

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 4:48pm

Yeah true mate, definitely interesting for that reason, will be watching.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 6:02pm

Looks like all those cars driving to the Sunny Coast will now have to turn around and head south!!!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 4:39pm

not missing anything down here.

incon 2 ft sets, nor-easter is up. tide up.

total caca.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 6:02pm

Yippee!!!